Car Thread - VROOM VROOM

What is your favorite car? (Top 3)

  • Ame Sea

    Votes: 6 1.7%
  • Ferd

    Votes: 78 22.3%
  • Chevus

    Votes: 29 8.3%
  • Crintzler

    Votes: 5 1.4%
  • Doge

    Votes: 38 10.9%
  • Beem Dubya

    Votes: 28 8.0%
  • Mersaydis

    Votes: 28 8.0%
  • Volts-Wagon

    Votes: 31 8.9%
  • FIOT

    Votes: 8 2.3%
  • Joop

    Votes: 21 6.0%
  • Alphonse Romero

    Votes: 9 2.6%
  • Vulva

    Votes: 34 9.7%
  • Teslur

    Votes: 11 3.2%
  • Mincooper

    Votes: 6 1.7%
  • Knee-Son

    Votes: 17 4.9%
  • Hun-die

    Votes: 11 3.2%
  • Toyoder

    Votes: 123 35.2%
  • Hondo

    Votes: 90 25.8%
  • Subrue

    Votes: 47 13.5%

  • Total voters
    349
It's got an absolutely insane HP/L ratio, IIRC highest of any factory car. They don't even sound too bad stock, and the few around me are tuned because you just need pop and crackle noises and back firing in your 60k+ German cozy ride. Yet to drive one, but the motor is wild, I think it's also in the small crossover the gle? That could be a dope family hauler.

AMGs aren't supposed to be about superlative fetishization. Sure I guess 235hp/L from a factory turbocharged 4 is kind of impressive but it's not a number that hasn't been done on pump gas a thousand times in tuner cars. They don't sound bad... please... It's so bad I couldn't find any good videos of how they sound for those here who haven't seen one IRL because it's just quiet turbo 4cyl sounds and fake engine sounds on the inside. A decade ago we had the M156 AMGs and they were among the best sounding German cars made, now a C63 sounds soft compared to an SRT4 Neon.


A stock Dodge Neon SRT4:
 
Who has dash cams? Are they useful? What brand do you have? I'm considering dash cams for my first vehicle.
 
Who has dash cams? Are they useful? What brand do you have? I'm considering dash cams for my first vehicle.
dashcamtalk.com was and maybe still is a good source. My last batch of dash cams was a set of aukey minis off of amazon, but the link is dead when I go to my order from 4 years ago. It looks like there are some that look just like them, but I don't know if they're the same thing rebranded. They all still work, and some of them have been subjected to daily driving and parking outside in the summer for years, so they seem to handle heat fine. Whatever you get, make sure it doesn't have a lithium battery unless the camera will never get left in a hot car. Capacitor instead of battery is the way to go to prevent early failure and swelling.
 
Who has dash cams? Are they useful? What brand do you have? I'm considering dash cams for my first vehicle.
I personally have had this one (or an earlier version of the same model) for five years. It's worked flawlessly, and I live in a place where it gets to be triple digit heat for most of the year. I'd probably get one that points forward and back now, but it has served me well. It's a capacitor camera too, like the above poster recommended.
 
Nissan went the literal full egg-blob CUV route with the newly revealed Murano:

1729146020445.png 1729146041845.png

They did replace the shitty CVT with a 9-Speed Automatic, but also dropped the VQ V6 for the 2.0 VC-Turbo, which has shown to not get much better fuel economy in real-life driving.

1729146137814.png

Nissan also went the same literal DUAL SCREENS route for the instrument cluster and infotainment, and also added the stupid capacitive touch A/C controls from the Ariya. The steering wheel also has those stupid capacitive touch controls too.

I don't expect this to be a massive seller for Nissan, since I'm not sure if they still finance literal potatos, with their recent pushes to try to get away from the "literal rental cars" feeling that their cars had in the late Ghosn-era. And this is the best that Nissan could think of for the Murano, after 10 years? (The current gen Murano debuted for the 2015 MY)
 
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I could use some general tech help here. Please bear with how long this is.

The economy has taken a shit in used car market in my area and the salvaged car market (Which I highly recommend people stay away from unless they know how to inspect/repair a car very well) is now taking the place at least in my area. I'm getting a lot of calls from mostly what I would call "mediocre mechanics" who have transplanted an used entire engine/ECU/transmission set into vehicles with fair to good bodies but engines/transmissions that were never serviced and self destructed due to back luck or people being retarded (mostly women who just put gas in the car and thought the check engine light/engine temp was just part of the running lights). Anyway I'm rambling here....

I'm getting a lot of these calls lately from mechanics, 75% of them are Honda/Acura/Toyota/Lexus products and yeah the mechanic got the the thing to run but, it's not passing emissions as the VIN is wrong. Not to mention the doner ECU and sometimes dash is reading substantially lower which also is a problem when reselling the vehicle and the car fax history shows a huge 50K mile NEGATIVE on the car report one year. Now That I can fix myself with some EEPROM work and I've done it before as the mileage never seems to interact with the ECU when corrected. The problem with the the doner power-train having the wrong ECU VIN is failing emissions. Years ago I think I attempted to modify a VIN on a basic bitch 2010 Honda Accord and although I successfully changed he ECU VIN it not longer matched the transmission control module VIN and would not crank. I changed it back to the original doner VIN and resynched the ECU and it ran but I never truley solved he problem.

The dealership responce to vin correction with tends to be "fuck you for not buying our engine/trans and having us do it, call us when you have $5,000 to put a 3rd engine in your $4,000 car" So, the money is there if I can find a means to fix this.

Anyone have diagnostic equipment they can reccomend? I have an IM508 and I got it because I'm rarley needing anything more, such as the 608 will do. I'm not getting a clear answer on what the 608 can/cannot do to fix this issue.
 
I wish I could help but I deliberately avoid late model car shit like that. Sounds like a nightmare. I hate newer cars and their serialized/CAN shit.

Nissan went the literal full egg-blob CUV route with the newly revealed Murano:
Wasn't the murano the original shitty egg CUV? They've always been disgustingly especially the convertibles which I'm surprised ever sold at all.
 
Nissan went the literal full egg-blob CUV route with the newly revealed Murano:

View attachment 6531985 View attachment 6531987

They did replace the shitty CVT with a 9-Speed Automatic, but also dropped the VQ V6 for the 2.0 VC-Turbo, which has shown to not get much better fuel economy in real-life driving.

View attachment 6531995

Nissan also went the same literal DUAL SCREENS route for the instrument cluster and infotainment, and also added the stupid capacitive touch A/C controls from the Ariya. The steering wheel also has those stupid capacitive touch controls too.

I don't expect this to be a massive seller for Nissan, since I'm not sure if they still finance literal potatos, with their recent pushes to try to get away from the "literal rental cars" feeling that their cars had in the late Ghosn-era. And this is the best that Nissan could think of for the Murano, after 10 years? (The current gen Murano debuted for the 2015 MY)
That's a nice Renault, says the frenchman as he smokes his baguette that looks like a cigarette.
 
Why do people tint their windows beyond the legal limit? Why tint them at ALL at that point since it varies from state to state?

1729570242918.png

Elvira has THE most iconic convertible yet. Eat your heart out, Batman.
 
Aussies do a lot of cool shit with cars I'm always sad we never got the Barra inline 6 here in states.
 
Trying to bleed the clutch on manual swapped car for the first time. Has remote bleeder.

Pressure bleeder refuses to keep pressure when pulling from master cylinder. Can’t pull any pressure at all from the remote bleeder.

Ideas?
 
Trying to bleed the clutch on manual swapped car for the first time. Has remote bleeder.

Pressure bleeder refuses to keep pressure when pulling from master cylinder. Can’t pull any pressure at all from the remote bleeder.

Ideas?
Leave the bleeder open and let it gravity bleed for some time? Or reverse bleed it. Really though, with the bleeder open and no fluid you should be able to pull air straight through it, so you should be able to pull fluid too unless there's some block.
 
I could use some general tech help here. Please bear with how long this is.
You're a car locksmith, correct? (I don't know the title of your profession.) I have a car with a key hub. Do you recommend having more than one? How much does it cost to replace? Do they go bad regularly? I assume it's a battery and certain Bluetooth like signal that communicates with the car.
 
You're a car locksmith, correct? (I don't know the title of your profession.) I have a car with a key hub. Do you recommend having more than one? How much does it cost to replace? Do they go bad regularly? I assume it's a battery and certain Bluetooth like signal that communicates with the car.

You mean "Fob" as it remotely interacts with the car? This car has a regular ignition? You insert a key and rotate or there is a start/stop button?

Regardless of any type of "key" that operates something as valuable as a vehicle you need to have minimum 2. The alternative is hoping you don't lose the only one and paying me a few hundred dollars to make a house call. Or an additional hundred for a tow truck/few hundred to the dealership.

Bluetooth is it's own separate frequency, most fobs operate at 315/433/902 mhz and have their own FCC ID and operate on a rolling code system.

The rest depends on your year/make/model/FCC-ID. It's extremely rare some can be simply cloned, some can have a second FOB added without special equipment by the owner of the car, that is also rare and typically requires 2 keys to add a third. %90 of vehicles on the road need someone who knows what they are doing to add another fob.

On the back of the fob there should be an FCC ID number, or if you want to post the year/make/model. As I said previously %90 require someone to know WTF they are doing. I have seen people try to add their own fobs and get the car stuck in programming mode and now it won't start. Not broken just stuck in programming mode.
 
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You mean "Fob" as it remotely interacts with the car? This car has a regular ignition? You insert a key and rotate or there is a start/stop button?
Key fob, my fault. There's no ignition, just start stop. Why did they stop having actual keys? The option to have a key just in case would help wonders.

%90 of vehicles on the road need someone who knows what they are doing to add another fob.

On the back of the fob there should be an FCC ID number, or if you want to post the year/make/model. As I said previously %90 require someone to know WTF they are doing. I have seen people try to add their own fobs and get the car stuck in programming mode and now it won't start. Not broken just stuck in programming mode.
So, find a place that can actually program those keys properly with your vehicle FCC ID. Is there a battery inside the fob?
 
Key fob, my fault. There's no ignition, just start stop. Why did they stop having actual keys? The option to have a key just in case would help wonders.

First of all I promise you 100% there is a an actual metal key hidden within your fob no matter who made your car; there is also a keyhole in the drivers door near the handle sometimes it's hidden. Its there in case either battery in the car dies, the fob battery dies or the fob circuit board is damaged to the point where the remote will no longer function to open the doors/disable the alarm. This way you can get in and progress further.

If you open the door hear no alarm, see none of the usual cabin lights turn on and press the horn or emergency flashing lights and nothing responds 99% your car battery is dead NOT the FOB, if you call someone like me I can jump the battery but so can you for $20 in booster cables and another car, the difference is I charge about $150 an hour to tell you you left your headlights on. This happens a lot.

If the fob you have has a dead battery you can now use this emergency hidden metal key that will only work on the door and open the car easily. The alarm may go off but, that's not an issue some vehicles will "sense" the fob inside the car without a battery or a low battery. If the battery is not installed, 100% dead, or damaged but not destroyed there is always an emergency start procedure. Once again, I promise you this is in your owners manual. About half the time this procedure goes: You step on the brake and press the start button using he fob and the vehicle will start. Now you can at least drive around till you figure out why the FOB is not acting correctly.

So, find a place that can actually program those keys properly with your vehicle FCC ID. Is there a battery inside the fob?

All you have to do is find a reputable locksmith and give them the year/make/model, inform them you have one working key and simply need an additional key made. Offer to drive the car to them for the lowest price. Don't buy a key online and try and haggle with someone, we fucking hate that. Not to mention 50% of the time the customer buys the wrong key/used key/empty shell and gets mad when tell them or spend 30 minutes trying to program the wrong part. Some dick licking faggot son of bitch on Amazon listed Mercedes Benz keys for sale, in the description it said something like "your local locksmith will charge around $75 to program this". A typical Mercedes is about $500 to program a key.

Yes, there is obviously a battery inside the FOB is produces a radio signal the car responds to, this requires power. There are no batteries in keys that have no remotes as in a metal key that you insert and twist, only chips that interact with the security system they do not require power.

Why did they stop having actual keys?

I think it just started as convenience. I'm sure you aware a time when purchased a new car and you stuck a metal key in a door and twisted just to lock/unlock then the fancy German cars came up with remotes. The other manufacturers copied this system. In some cases the "keyless "start/stop button" becomes the "achilles heel" of the security system. A generation 2 Toyota Prius for example 2004-2009, I can pick the door lock in 45 seconds, door open, alarm disabled, erase keys/ program new key car in drive in another 45 seconds. The tools neccisay including the progrmamer will fit in my right pocket.
 
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In some cases the "keyless "start/stop button" becomes the "achilles heel" of the security system. A generation 2 Toyota Prius for example 2004-2009, I can pick the door lock in 45 seconds, door open, alarm disabled, erase keys/ program new key car in drive in another 45 seconds. The tools neccisay including the progrmamer will fit in my right pocket.
Quite well known that a certain era of BMW were stealable by cracking the window down a bit and hooking up to the ODBII port which was easy to access
 
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