Circumvent rationing?

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Staticness

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My mother called me up and said a war was on the horizon, and what’s more, apparently they’d be rationing gas and (possibly) water.

Anyone have any ways to dodge gas rationing if you’re stuck in the suburbs and have no enclave to get out of Dodge?
 
Storing gas is DICEY. You can store it in jugs, but it needs to be airtight because the vapor is flammable. Store them outside in a shed, away from ANY source of sparks or heat. Not in the fucking garage. Avoid anywhere that's wired for power. Do not buy a shit ton of gas at once, buy 5 gallons here and there from different places. Gas DOES go bad, btw. If you have a car that you don't use much, you can just put it into there as a storage if you don't have containers. But gas WILL go bad, so don't think you're going to just fill the gas up and 10 years from now it'll be good.

Water, however, can be stored easily! You can also collect it, and some municipalities will come after you if you collect it because you're robbing from the water table (seriously, lol, most people couldn't do enough to impact it) but there are ways to just hide your collector barrels from view and collect rainwater that way. You'll need to research filtration techniques though and you'll also want to make sure you add vitamins back into the water.

If you live in a humid environment, you can also use condensors/evap systems to collect water, but you'll still need to add vitamins/minerals back into the water.
 
Modern gas will go bad very fast, diesel less so. However in a year it will be all unusable.

Water can be stored easily, you can get multiple gallon barrels and refill them occasionally and keep them clear with chlorine tablets.
Brasil/bolivia and other places know the issues of bad water mains and have giant barrels on roof just for that purpose.

If you live in a humid environment, you can also use condensors/evap systems to collect water, but you'll still need to add vitamins/minerals back into the water.
This will kill you. Condensate has metals and bacteria in it.
 
During gas rationing in the 70s they allowed cars to purchase based on license plate numbers (iirc). So multiple cars with plates ending in different numbers could be a good strategy. E.g., one plate is odd number xxxx even number and the other is even number xxxx odd number.

Plug-in hybrids are actually a decent option if you expect gas rationing, because electricity can be made many ways and you can charge it at home.

If you want to store gas you MUST store non-oxy premium (or non-oxy regular if you can find it) because the ethanol collects water and fucks everything up.

Buy a motorcycle, preferably old, common, and easy to repair. Fucker will go forever on an SUV's tankful.

Have ways to transfer gasoline from a vehicle (antisiphon shit makes this annoying, know where to tap fuel lines) so you can buy black-market gas from those who don't need it.

Water storage is a known problem and has solutions, cisterns, drums, etc. Store water purification tools and then it's easier to store water. And move to a place where water is common as fuck and lays around on the ground (they call them "lakes"). If you have purification filters/tablets and running rivers or lake water, you're fine.
 
I've read about conversion kits to convert diesel vehicles into something that can run on vegetable oil. Anybody know more about that?
 
You can't really circumvent rationing legally unless you can produce the rationed goods yourself.

This will kill you. Condensate has metals and bacteria in it.
Very important to emphasize. Any water condensed out of the atmosphere is also going to have whatever is floating around in the atmosphere in it - bacteria, yeast, mold, pollen, pollution, etc.

Removing the contaminants is possible but it's going to be a lot of work when you could just boil some creek water or use one of those life straw devices. Or collect rainwater, with rainwater it's kind of similar where you want the initial rainfall to run off because it's going to be loaded with all the stuff in the air.
 
Anyone have any ways to dodge gas rationing if you’re stuck in the suburbs and have no enclave to get out of Dodge?
Black markets open immediately in situations where rationing occurs but the country is otherwise stable. All of the advice posted here is excellent, but it might also be a good idea to stock up on currency and other valuables that you can use for under-the-table trading.
 
Modern gas will go bad very fast, diesel less so. However in a year it will be all unusable.

Water can be stored easily, you can get multiple gallon barrels and refill them occasionally and keep them clear with chlorine tablets.
Brasil/bolivia and other places know the issues of bad water mains and have giant barrels on roof just for that purpose.


This will kill you. Condensate has metals and bacteria in it.
You can't really circumvent rationing legally unless you can produce the rationed goods yourself.


Very important to emphasize. Any water condensed out of the atmosphere is also going to have whatever is floating around in the atmosphere in it - bacteria, yeast, mold, pollen, pollution, etc.

Removing the contaminants is possible but it's going to be a lot of work when you could just boil some creek water or use one of those life straw devices. Or collect rainwater, with rainwater it's kind of similar where you want the initial rainfall to run off because it's going to be loaded with all the stuff in the air.
I've spent time in places without easy access to free-flowing water. YOU DO NEED TO BOIL AND FILTER ANY COLLECTED WATER. Very, very sorry, I thought that was a given.

As an aside, when COVID started, I saw a fellow at Costco who was stocking up on charcoal briquettes. I asked him if he was going to BBQ. He told me he was going to use them for filtering :story: Charcoal briquettes are treated with a lot of chemicals that you would NOT want to filter your water or have near your face as a filter, so do not use those for any DIY filtration process. You can buy activated charcoal in bulk to create your filtration system or augment a commercial one when the filters start going out.
 
You can't really circumvent rationing legally unless you can produce the rationed goods yourself.


Very important to emphasize. Any water condensed out of the atmosphere is also going to have whatever is floating around in the atmosphere in it - bacteria, yeast, mold, pollen, pollution, etc.

Removing the contaminants is possible but it's going to be a lot of work when you could just boil some creek water or use one of those life straw devices. Or collect rainwater, with rainwater it's kind of similar where you want the initial rainfall to run off because it's going to be loaded with all the stuff in the air.
Not just air, birds shit on roof and all that is washed down. While rainfall can be one of the cleanest sources, obtaining sufficient cleanness of everything going into the storage tank is horrible. You need to clean gutters, roof and every pipe. The first flow since rain starts is the dirtiest and should be run away from the tank - you can still use it to water garden.
The issue is also heavy metals and toxins leeching from shingles or whatever roof type you have, zinc from gutters and so on.

The carbon filter - you can make yourself and make activated carbon too
 
I've read about conversion kits to convert diesel vehicles into something that can run on vegetable oil. Anybody know more about that?
Only what I read online.

Basically certain diesel cars before the mid 2010s is suitable. There's some skoda that is highly prized among off-grid types for this reason. Modern diesels are all computer controlled and don't have tolerances for it. The process is to strain chip pan fat to remove contaminates. You can do this with any kind of filter. Coffee and water filters if your willing to spend money, a few layers of tights if your not. It smells bad however, and is somewhat flammable as chip pan fat tends to be.

In the UK, cars that do this are usually modded to have a secondary tank of fat, and a primary regular diesel. It supposedly smells like a chip shop as you drive around so people (ie. police.) can smell it and can slap you with tax dodging charges. It also gets less mileage and I think requires more maintenance due to be dirty, but don't quote me on that.


A related technology is woodgas. A quick search for woodgas cars will bring up many examples. If you live anywhere with access to wood you could use that.
 
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Both are just meme technology. Woodgas reduces your engine power to 10-20% what it would have and needs to be cleaned so it doesn't tar up everything. Vegetable oils are worser for the engine and it's easier to stock gas than whatever grade of vegetable oil. Foods will be more pricy than gas and you are just burning your inventory away.
 
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Though not very practical, people have historically stored large quantities of shelf stable and clean water in the form of small beer. The alcohol content was a lot lower than the average modern beer (less than 3%). On top of providing hydration the beer can be a small source of calories. So long as you bottle properly and don't really fuck up storing them, beer bottles will stay good for a lifetime.

Brewing is also a great hobby, perfect for some father-son time.
 
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gas primarily goes bad from evap and water absorption. keep water out and fumes in, and follow safety convention. it'll be fine. evaporation is the harder part to counteract.. if you get no ethanol gas you can (somewhat) restore the gas from evap losses by adding up to 5% pure ethanol by volume. make sure to get at least 99% ethanol, not 90%. do not use less than 99% under any circumstances. that's a bandaid tho. I'd only do it if I had old gas and no choice. that also won't help with water absorption..
 
anything less than 99% ethanol will separate from fuel. Non ethanol gas stores better than ethanol one and bacteria will degrade it. Evaporation is not an issue as gas will go stale from self-degradation faster than evaporate in a closed container.
You can use paint thinner, acetone or some other naphta-flamable derived product to boost it.
 
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Anybody know more about that?
You can convert it to run vegetable oil, but especially in colder climates you'll find out how much of a pain it is, and it still requires *some* diesel. You flip a switch to use the petrodiesel for a minute or two to warm things up, at which point the vegetable oil becomes liquid again, then you can switch over. Even then, it's hell on the engine, really gums things up. You'd want to go back to community college and learn to service diesel engines.

A better strategy for someone striving to become self-sufficient would be to go buy your real estate somewhere that you could grow an acre of an oil crop. Stuff like sunflowers can yield up to 120 gallons per acre. A small press to turn it into the oil... now, I know what you're thinking, isn't that just vegetable oil? Well, if I were buying real estate, I'd be looking for it somewhere that I had access to salt. There's this one place in Texas, Estelline Springs where salt water just bubbles out of the ground. So much that in the 1960s the Army Corps of Engineers blocked it off so the saltwater wasn't ruining the Brazos river. But it's still there, and if I could own that property, damn would that be nice. Not only salt for culinary uses, but there's a simple enough machine one could build that you could turn that saltwater into several different substances. Bleach, for one. Hydrogen gas for another (bottle it up for other chemistry projects). But most of all, just plain old soda lye.

With vegetable oil and lye, you need just one more ingredient to make a proper diesel fuel. Alcohol. Ethanol will work (but you have to get it to 100%, which if you know anything at all about distillation, is basically impossible). Methanol works best, but it's fucking poisonous to work with, and I don't trust myself to not fuck that up. Also basically impossible to make. Butanol though is an interesting one. There's this microbe (you can buy samples of it online too, for $20) that ferments the stuff. If you could learn to grow this bug (C. acetobutylicum) you'd get about 2% butanol. Not alot, so you'd need to set up a continuous distillation column (as you reduce the level of butanol in the bioreactor, the microbe makes more, it just can't tolerate anything above 2%ish). And you only need about 3/4s of a gallon for every 10 gallons of vegetable oil. Nevermind that it's a useful fuel in its own right.

Best of all, at the same time you're fermenting butanol, you're getting about half as much acetone. Acetone plus the bleach (above) and you can make chloroform which is a dangerous but serviceable general anesthetic. Acetone and chloroform are also solvents that one could use to extract natural rubber from plant material (dandelion, goldenrod, a hundred other species). But for sulfur, you'd be on your way to being able to make useful quantities of natural rubber. Not enough for tires, but maybe for machinery belts. Gaskets for canning, etc.

For someone still stuck in the suburbs you could try doing this shit for a diesel vehicle. But you're going to find all the food gone off shelves including vegetable oil. And last I noticed at the grocery store, they already want $16/gal for any of the good stuff, meaning the shit soybean oil is what, above $10? Maybe lye and methanol would be available though, so it could be worth reading up on it.
 
If you've got the money for a car that runs on fry fats, you've got the money for an electric vehicle and some form of wind or solar generator and battery bank.

They can't tax sunshine. Proof: they don't already.
 
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I've read about conversion kits to convert diesel vehicles into something that can run on vegetable oil. Anybody know more about that?
SVO(Straight veg oil)/UVO (Used Veg oil)/WVO (Waste Veg oil) conversions. I assuming you are doing 100% biodiesel and not the 20% or some other mix. Not currently worth it because:

1) Companies got in and started paying money to resturants for waste oils
2) Modern direct injection diesels will not do well with biodiesel unless you mod the ECU (another host of issues). EPA doing the ATF routine of fucking people over for it.
3) You'll need to build a biodiesel distiller and get rid of the shit ton of lye
4) If you fail to strain out the impurities, don't watch acidity, or check for water in fuel you can kiss your injection pump goodbye.
5) You will need to rebuild the engine with biodiesel specific seals usually.

There are two types of systems generally: Single tank and double tank,
Single tank uses straight biodiesel (Not recommended unless you got an old ass indirect injection and swapped all the seals, even then lubrication issues...).
Double uses a bit of diesel to warm up the engine to temp and then you switch to the tank with bio diesel, most systems require double tank to not kill itself.

I knew someone who ran his diesel off of used motor oil lmao.

If you are still brave enough to proceed, look for the following:
  • pre 2004 VW diesels - Ok if well maintained. VE injection pumps are a bitch on the EA827 serries and there is a chance your cyclnder is worn into an oval shape. Can swap newer VW inline 4 diesels into the older cars. VAGCOM is a bitch on newer engines and SAAS. Parts are plentiful if expensive (good luck finding mechnical injectors on other brands rebuilt or NOS lmao)
  • Pre 1990 merc diesels - No experience with these
  • Isuzu - If you can get one imported 4JB1-T is the best (5500 RPM redline lmao). Can be found in heavy equipment/boat junkyards. Otherwise only US passenger car engines are C223/240/190 serries inline 4s with a whopping ~58 (40 something for the 190) hp on a good day (unless you get a unicorn turbo ver, still shit). Don't let the timing belt break on these (Will absolutely throw pistons into you valves) . Gear driven ones avalible outside USA but fuel pump and starter arrangment NOT compatible (reversed locations) due to reversed timing setup. Parts an issue in the USA if engine from passenger vehicles.
  • Ford 6.9/7.3 (No experience with these)
  • Mitsubishi Mighty Max/Dodge diesels - Can also be found on some 80s ford rangers. Go for the 4D56 (2.5L), be forewarned aluminum head versions are shit. Likes to overheat or break rocker arms. Stock Turbo kills engine fast (was designed for ~50k lifespan on turboed engines). No turbo means you get maybe 45mph max.
  • Detroit diesels - No biodiesel experience (limited to semi engines shit at work) Piece of shit imho. Get a cummins or a cat (sorry).
  • Cummins - Get your hands on a Chinese one assuming EPA doesn't catch you if you can and just pay them to modify the ECU. It's literally designed to defeat emissions lmao.
  • Cat - Ok but you pay out the nose for anything.
  • Oldmobile - Kill yourself.
  • Duramax - Will hasten any injector issues on the L serries if you run biodiesel (LB7 is notorious for this). VGT turbo doesn't like the biodiesel exaust gas and will have issues. Also ECU so not easily tuned. No experience on any of them past LMM.
 
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