high amperage (100-200amp) "continuous use" relays and or solenoids.

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Maybe this is stupid question but I cannot get a simple answer. A "continuous use" $12 automotive relay is rated at 100 amps as in the little 1.5" plastic cube. These things actually have a 100% duty cycle? As in when triggered they will run 100amps and not melt after 10 mins out of the sheer energy being passed through? Am I misunderstanding the phrase "continuous use" here?
 
100 amps at 12 volts produces very little heat in a low resistance material.

If I wanted something that would run 120 VAC at 100amps %100 duty cycle or better yet a dual SPDT 120VAC 100amp relay where would I start looking? I think it obvious I'm looking for a means of being able to control power power to a residential breaker box using a lower voltage control like 12vdc 1 amp for example.
 
My question: why do some people pronounce "solenoid" as "sillanoid" instead of how it is actually spelled?
 
My question: why do some people pronounce "solenoid" as "sillanoid" instead of how it is actually spelled?
Same reason some "people" pronounce "lieutenant" as "lefftennat"
 
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I am curious about your project OP. Care to tell us more?
Now if I have this right Most north American residences are roughly 240VAC at the main breaker, there is central support wire for both power and handling the weight of the wires and 2 separate 120VAC heavy gauge weather rated insulated wires joining it. most residential main breakers are rated at 100amps some are 200amps.

In short I'm trying to find a I believe to be a "DPST" in NC, or better yet a "DPDT On-Off-On relay" that can handle two separate lines 120VAC 100AMPS %100 duty cycle. It would be really nice if the control side of the relay ran on something simple like 12VDC 1 AMP and I could just wire that relay to low voltage battery and toggle power to my breaker on/off between the actual grid and diesel generator I already have without even exiting the home.

To reiterate I want to be able disconnect from the grid safely with an appropriate rated relay at the push of a button. I don't need a high frequency cycle unit on/off, it probably won't be used after testing more than once every 6 moths just something that will safely handle 200amps and cut power when something like 12VDC 1 amp is applied. Weather rated would be nice but I'm more than capable of building a nice hurricane-proof project box to protect relays/ 12VDC 3amp hour batteries/ 12VDC battery maintainers /RF receiver units w/e.

Is the project clear?
 
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Look into the fender mounted starter solenoids that were common on Fords from the early 60s to the early 90s.

Here's an assortment of them in various duty cycle and amp ratings

Thank you for the link but nothing there appears to be rated for 120VAC @100 amps

Now my understanding is DC rating and AC ratings are lower as in a device or wire than can safely handle 50 VDC @ 1 AMP can handle 50 VAC @ 1 AMP.

Surely someone makes a relay designed for 220 VAC 100-200 AMP? it's such a common power load in North America at least. All I'm finding are DC based lower voltage units.


I would replace this with a gasoline powered generator since gasoline ignites easier in colder temperatures.

That's not bad advice but, I got this really nice one for free with electric start and sine wave control and all the bells and whistles, did I mention it was free?
 
Surely someone makes a relay designed for 220 VAC 100-200 AMP? it's such a common power load in North America at least. All I'm finding are DC based lower voltage units.
Are you clear about the difference between the coil voltage and the rated switching voltage? Because if you want AC coil operation you should look up contactors.
 
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This whole thing just sounds like a really roundabout way to ask for a Automatic Transfer switch. Heck, you can even get a manual transfer switch for generators. Just get a generator transfer switch.
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USA https://www.socomec.us/en-us/c/transfer-switches
Something externally controlled sounds expensive, there are many automatic transfer switches for generators, and manual ones, but if you want control on top of that, things look expensive.
 
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Thank you for the link but nothing there appears to be rated for 120VAC @100 amps

Now my understanding is DC rating and AC ratings are lower as in a device or wire than can safely handle 50 VDC @ 1 AMP can handle 50 VAC @ 1 AMP.

Surely someone makes a relay designed for 220 VAC 100-200 AMP? it's such a common power load in North America at least. All I'm finding are DC based lower voltage units.
Ah, my bad I misread it and thought you were asking for 12V@ 100 amps continuous. Those specialized ones are available, but are industrial/bespoke, and expensive. A quick look online and definite voltage relays like youre asking can range in the hundreds of dollars, depending on what you spec out. You  could male an EV vehicle contactor work, but as @Lichen Bark pointed out, it sounds like you really want an automatic transfer switch. Not to mention, depending on the locality you're in, you might be required by local codes to have a transfer switch if you have an off-grid generator. You don't want to be held liable if the power goes out and the power company is out working on downed lines when you fire up your generator and backfeed electricity into the grid, frying a lineman to a crisp.
 
Are you clear about the difference between the coil voltage and the rated switching voltage? Because if you want AC coil operation you should look up contactors.

I think I understand the difference, I'm not an electrical engineer I've simply learned as I've taken on larger and more ambitious projects over the years. The larger bulkier contacts obviously are doing the heavy lifting carrying the high wattage/volts/amps and the smaller connectors are controlling them being being NO/NC are activated by a much smaller power such as 12VDC 1AMP.

Now correct me if I'm wrong but, the "rated switching" would be the 12VDC 1amp, jumping in this case jumping the big power from NO/NC, do I have this right?


Ah, my bad I misread it and thought you were asking for 12V@ 100 amps continuous. Those specialized ones are available, but are industrial/bespoke, and expensive. A quick look online and definite voltage relays like youre asking can range in the hundreds of dollars, depending on what you spec out. You  could male an EV vehicle contactor work, but as @Lichen Bark pointed out, it sounds like you really want an automatic transfer switch. Not to mention, depending on the locality you're in, you might be required by local codes to have a transfer switch if you have an off-grid generator. You don't want to be held liable if the power goes out and the power company is out working on downed lines when you fire up your generator and backfeed electricity into the grid, frying a lineman to a crisp.

That is a good point. The whole idea of this project was to not deal with a hurricane weather and just have a button or remote that cut a 100-200 AMP relay but I guess a transfer switch is the best way to go.
 
The whole idea of this project was to not deal with a hurricane weather
Then just get yourself an automatic transfer switch. https://www.generac.com/residential-products/standby-generator-transfer-switches/automatic/
It's still a big project, because you need to move and rewire everything you want backed up to the transfer switches panel. Like I already said you will pay out of the nose for the extra 12V control of a relay of that size, you're getting into stuff you need for large buildings.
 
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