How to sell (or just get rid of) your stuff

[Manimal House]

Got junk you want to get rid of, but don't know where or how to do it? This is the thread to post information on the what, where and how. This isn't geared towards making money or selling things at a profit (not seeing a thread in the Bidness for that, but if there is one then this different in that it's more like 'I'm trying to move and gotta get rid of all this shit I don't need, how do I do?).

(From my experience as a US resident)​

Selling things:​

(Ebay)
If you have no issues using Paypal(no longer relevant, Ebay processes their own payments now) and are getting rid of things of value, then Ebay is the way to go. The biggest pain in the ass is shipping, but the way to reduce a lot of the headache with that is to use USPS Priority Mail shipping boxes. USPS offices leave out a lot of those boxes out for people to just come in and take for no charge, so you'll have them to ship with for free. Each item you list gives you the option to charge for shipping, so all you have to do is plug in the Priority Mail shipping box size for that item and it will automatically charge the buyer the shipping price and you won't have to pay anything when you bring it to USPS or give it to the mailman. All you need are the boxes, a printer, packing tape and stuffing for the box (bubblewrap is best but filling air into ziploc baggies works too) and you're set. When listing the items, take as many pictures of it as you can and be as honest as possible with the description, if you try to rip someone off then they'll give you a bad review and having a seller's score that is less than perfect turns a lot of people off on Ebay. The last question to ask is whether or not to put it up on auction or one time purchase. If it's something you really don't care much about (or just really need it gone) then auction it starting at one dollar to guarentee someone buying it. If it's something you don't HAVE to let go of, then the 'buy it now' is preferred and you can set the price yourself (in this case, if it's something REALLY valuable then taking pictures of the item with a hand-written note in front of it displaying your account name and the date it went up for sale authenticates that what you're selling isn't bullshit. This also helps with new seller accounts that don't have reviews from the userbase). It should also be noted that there's a lot of talk about a 1099K tax form sent to people that sell over the 5000 dollar limit, but it has also been said that it's all just talk or 'they're planning on it but haven't done it yet'. To be safe as possible, any income from there should be reported on taxes regardless.

(Offerup)
This is more of an app that is used for selling things locally, unlike Ebay where everything is shipped out. It's also not the place to sell anything of high value, more like things where you just want to get rid of it but get SOME money in return. Though there are shipping options available if you want to go that route, so the shipping tips from above can apply but you'll have to be able to accept people lowballing the price they'll pay because it's all hagglers there. If that's fine with you then Offerup is a decent route to go, but I haven't used it in a while so I'm not sure if there are still people using it or if it isn't what it used to be. All I can say about it is that if someone offers to buy it and you have to meet up with them, choose a public parking lot to meet up with them for the transaction (Library, Wal-mart, etc.), whatever you do don't let them come to your house unless you're THAT ballsy.

(FB Marketplace)
I've never used this because I don't have a facebook account. I've bought things from there by looking at it through accounts from friends and family and the only appeal to it is that there are (or at least were) a lot of people using it so it might be a good method to use if you just want to sell things cash-only. Can't really say much more on it.

(Craigslist)
Also haven't used it to get rid of things but from what I've heard, it's kinda dead due to how outdated it is unless it's something specific like automotive sales. For anything else, I'd say that the only reason to use it is if you don't have paypal (can't use ebay), no one's on Offerup and you don't have a facebook account. It's probably a decent way to do 'cash only' transactions but as I said with Offerup, always meet up in public. From those I've talked to who still put up craigslist offers, they stick to a very 'cut the bullshit' type of rule where it's like 'I'm selling it for this much, you want it or not?'. Any other way is just a waste of time.

(Stores and Pawn Shops)
Pawning things isn't really going to get you anything unless it's something of decent value and even then you're still not going to get a lot out of it because they have to make money by selling it themselves, but it's still an option if all of the above doesn't work out. There are stores that specifically buy used things, one example is Plato's Closet (a clothing store that will buy used designer brand clothes that are still in good condition, I walked out with 150 dollars from bringing in a bunch of old clothes that no longer fit me there once).

(Garage/yard sales)
I've done these a couple of times with my family and they can be a way to get rid of stuff for something at the lowest price you can think of, but they're much better if they're a collaborative effort. The last one I went to was at a huge place with four different people selling their stuff (it was like a neighborhood yard sale) so there was all kinds of different stuff to look at, therefore a lot of people came to it. This is pretty much the last stop at letting something go before you just decide to get rid of it with no money back.

Giving stuff away​

​

(Donation Centers)
These are a good way to get rid of things like furniture, electronics, books, media and clothes. You'll want to check with the donation center to make sure they give itemized receitps so you can use that as a tax deduction on your taxes. I've been to quite a lot that just hand you a blank receipt and that doesn't really go very far. The ones that I've been to that do that are usually run by churches.

(Letgo)
From what I've gathered, it's basically the Offerup app but without any selling going on. Also not a guarenteed way to actually get rid of things because it might not get picked up. Frankly I never tried it because it looked to me like it sounded cool on paper but in reality listing something on there is just making yourself a tweaker magnet.

(Recycling Businesses)
This is more for electronics and things that shouldn't just be thrown in the dumpster. There are companies that will pay you for recycling your electronics. SellCell is one that is specifically for cellphone, Gizmogo is for electronics in general, and there's GreenBuyback, Sellbroke Decluttr and ecoATM. Basically anything with a power cable can and should be recycled, some things won't give you any money back for them if they're super old or unusable but places like that are a one-stop shop for getting rid of all electronics.

AFAIK, everything else goes in the trash or heads to the dump. Some towns/cities have services to come pick up things you can't move yourself and that can be costly, but then again going to the dump also not free. This is more or less what I know based on my experience, would like to know other methods people use to get rid of their things aside from just tossing them out.

 

[CharcoalChkn]

I have used the below many times and had positive experiences, as these are all community run services and posts, you will be interacting with individuals, please make sure you understand that going in.

Gumtree (aka Aussie Craigslist)
I've successfully bought, sold, got free shit and had services provided to me from this platform. All were very quick and pleasant experiences. It's very active.
If you're trying to ditch furniture that is still useable, I recommend setting your location as an area with a uni close by, students will snap up free shit. You just have to get it to them.

Airtasker
Have used Airtasker multiple times to come pick up old furniture no longer needed or bulky junk to take to the tip for usually just the cost of using the tip services.

 

[Cirrhosis_of_Liver]

Leave it on the sidewalk by government housing. It will be taken, destroyed, or used in a crime so the police have to throw it away.

 

[Rock hard as a Flintstone]

If you have no issues using Paypal and are getting rid of things of value, then Ebay is the way to go.

Ebay has been processing their own payments for a while now, but your post is still relevant. If you're happy to eat ~20% of your net earnings in platform fees alone and leave yourself open to being fucked by buyers (they keep an amazon style returns policy now completely on the sellers dime despite just being an internet fleamarket) it really is the best place to get actual money for obscure junk.

Due to the latter there's a few categories that I just don't bother with unless the potential returns are moderate: Toys/dolls, comics/anime and video games. They all attract a certain type of impulsive adult child that doesn't like to hold their end of the deal. Also be aware when listing broken electronics that buyers will often overestimate their own skill and try to fuck you when they've run out of luck or talent.

Whatever FBM/Gumtree/Craigslist style platform you have locally is likely fine if you know the exact local value of what you're selling and have a ton of patience to deal with those that just aren't interested but need to interact or haggle.

Low value things are always better off being parted out, left on the side of the road or donated to charity before interacting with the internet.

 

[Meat Target]

Easy. My neighborhood has community dumpsters.

 

[Aztec Death Squad]

Antique stores are a good place to sell things, too. Some have a mixture of actual antiques and more recent fluff novelty items, so they may be interested in both.

Easy. My neighborhood has community dumpsters.

Just to comment, but some trash dumps have tipping fees or other requirements such as having a state license plate. Randomly driving up to a dumpster for a community you are not part of and unloading is an easy way to get a fine.

 

[DavidS877]

Someone else already mentioned eBay not needing Paypal any more so I'll skip that.

I've been to quite a lot that just hand you a blank receipt and that doesn't really go very far.

This isn't a problem in the US. For almost all donations of stuff you're required to value them yourself anyway for the IRS, so the difference between you writing in the item values on a receipt and writing in the item name and value is minimal. Just keep the values sane, check eBay sold listings or something. And take a picture before donating so if the IRS ever comes calling you can prove what you donated.

The charity doesn't keep track, so it's just your word to the IRS anyway. This is not true for big ticket items like cars, those have different rules.

 

[Manimal House]

Ebay has been processing their own payments for a while now

Just checked and you're right, been a minute since I sold anything on there. They also allow Venmo and Gpay. Edited OP to remove that part.

Toys/dolls, comics/anime and video games. They all attract a certain type of impulsive adult child that doesn't like to hold their end of the deal. Also be aware when listing broken electronics that buyers will often overestimate their own skill and try to fuck you when they've run out of luck or talent.

Yeah those type of collectable items have this absurd Ebay market and unless that's a thing you're actually involved in, it's not really worth the hassle going that route. If anything, it's at least a good way to check the 'sold' listings for a certain thing to find out what people were willing to pay for them within the past month or so.

This isn't a problem in the US. For almost all donations of stuff you're required to value them yourself anyway for the IRS, so the difference between you writing in the item values on a receipt and writing in the item name and value is minimal. Just keep the values sane, check eBay sold listings or something. And take a picture before donating so if the IRS ever comes calling you can prove what you donated.

The charity doesn't keep track, so it's just your word to the IRS anyway. This is not true for big ticket items like cars, those have different rules.

It depends on the value of what you're donating.

https://www.irs.gov/publications/p526

This is what the IRS has on their website about that:

Spoiler: Noncash Contributions

Noncash Contributions​

Substantiation requirements for contributions not made in cash depend on whether your deduction for the contribution is:

1. Less than $250,
2. At least $250 but not more than $500,
3. Over $500 but not more than $5,000, or
4. Over $5,000.

The substantiation requirements for noncash contributions of more than $500 also apply to any return filed for any carryover year.

Amount of deduction.

In figuring whether your deduction is $500 or more, combine your claimed deductions for all similar items of property donated to any qualified organization during the year.
If you received goods or services in return, as described earlier in Contributions From Which You Benefit, reduce your contribution by the value of those goods or services. If you figure your deduction by reducing the FMV of the donated property by its appreciation, as described earlier in Giving Property That Has Increased in Value, your contribution is the reduced amount.

Deductions of Less Than $250​

Except as provided below, no deduction will be allowed for a noncash contribution of less than $250 unless you get and keep a receipt from the qualified organization showing:

1. The name and address of the qualified organization to which you contributed;
2. The date and location of the charitable contribution;
3. A description of the property in sufficient detail under the circumstances (taking into account the value of the property) for a person not generally familiar with the type of property to understand that the description is of the contributed property; and
4. For a security, the name of the issuer, the type of security, and whether it is publicly traded as of the date of the contribution. For example, a security is generally considered to be publicly traded if the security is (a) listed on a recognized stock exchange whose quotations are published daily, (b) regularly traded on a national or regional over-the-counter market, or (c) quoted daily in a national newspaper of general circulation in the case of mutual fund shares. Note: Digital assets are not publicly traded securities for the purposes of Form 8283, unless the digital asset is publicly traded stock or indebtedness.

A letter or other written communication from the qualified organization acknowledging receipt of the contribution and containing the information in (1), (2), (3), and (4) will serve as a receipt.

If it is impractical to get a receipt (for example, if you leave property at a charity’s unattended drop site), you may satisfy the substantiation requirements by maintaining reliable written records for each item of the donated property.
Your reliable written records must include the following information.

1. The information in (1), (2), (3), and (4) above.
2. If you claim a deduction for clothing or a household item, a description of the condition of the clothing or item.
3. The FMV of the property at the time of the contribution and how you figured the FMV.

Deductions of at Least $250 but Not More Than $500​

If you claim a deduction of at least $250 but not more than $500 for a noncash charitable contribution, you must get and keep a contemporaneous written acknowledgment of your contribution from the qualified organization. If you made more than one contribution of $250 or more, you must have either a separate acknowledgment for each or one acknowledgment that shows your total contributions. See CWA, earlier.
The acknowledgment must:

1. Be written.
2. Include:
   1. A description (but not necessarily the value) of any property you contributed,
   2. Whether the qualified organization gave you any goods or services as a result of your contribution (other than certain token items and membership benefits), and
   3. A description and good faith estimate of the value of any goods or services described in (b). If the only benefit you received was an intangible religious benefit (such as admission to a religious ceremony) that generally isn't sold in a commercial transaction outside the donative context, the acknowledgment must say so and doesn't need to describe or estimate the value of the benefit.
3. Be received by you on or before the earlier of:
   1. The date you file your return for the year you make the contribution, or
   2. The due date, including extensions, for filing the return.

Deductions Over $500 but Not Over $5,000​

If you claim a deduction over $500 but not over $5,000 for a noncash charitable contribution, you must complete Form 8283 and have the CWA, earlier. Your completed Form 8283 must include:

1. Your name and taxpayer identification number,
2. The name and address of the qualified organization,
3. The date of the charitable contribution, and
4. The following information about the contributed property:
   1. A description of the property in sufficient detail under the circumstances (taking into account the value of the property) for a person not generally familiar with the type of property to understand that the description is of the contributed property;
   2. The FMV of the property on the contribution date and the method used in figuring the FMV;
   3. In the case of real or tangible property, its condition;
   4. In the case of tangible personal property, whether the donee has certified it for a use related to the purpose or function constituting the donee’s basis for exemption under Section 501 of the Internal Revenue Code or, in the case of a governmental unit, an exclusively public purpose;
   5. In the case of securities, the name of the issuer, the type of securities, and whether they were publicly traded as of the date of the contribution;
   6. How you got the property, for example, by purchase, gift, bequest, inheritance, or exchange;
   7. The approximate date you got the property or, if created, produced, or manufactured by or for you, the approximate date the property was substantially completed; and
   8. The cost or other basis, and any adjustments to the basis, of property held less than 12 months and, if available, the cost or other basis of property held 12 months or more. This requirement, however, doesn't apply to publicly traded securities.

Deductions Over $5,000​

If you claim a deduction of over $5,000 for a noncash charitable contribution, you must have the CWA, earlier, obtain a qualified written appraisal of the donated property from a qualified appraiser, and complete Form 8283. A qualified appraisal is not required for contributions of qualified vehicles for which you obtain a CWA, certain inventory, publicly traded securities, or certain intellectual property. See Deductions More Than $5,000 in Publication 561 for more information. Note: Digital assets are not publicly traded securities for the purposes of Form 8283, unless the digital asset is publicly traded stock or indebtedness. If the value of the digital asset exceeds $5,000, appraisal requirements will apply.
In addition to, or in lieu of, the items described in Deductions Over $500 but Not Over $5,000 earlier, your completed Form 8283 must include:

1. The qualified organization’s taxpayer identification number, signature, the date signed by the qualified organization, and the date the qualified organization received the property;
2. The appraiser’s name, address, taxpayer identification number, appraiser declaration, signature, and the date signed by the appraiser; and
3. The following additional information about the contributed property:
   1. The FMV on the valuation effective date; and
   2. A statement explaining whether the charitable contribution was made by means of a bargain sale and, if so, the amount of any consideration received for the contribution.

Note.​

The appraiser declaration must include the following statement: “I understand that my appraisal will be used in connection with a return or claim for refund. I also understand that, if there is a substantial or gross valuation misstatement of the value of the property claimed on the return or claim for refund that is based on my appraisal, I may be subject to a penalty under section 6695A of the Internal Revenue Code, as well as other applicable penalties. I affirm that I have not been at any time in the 3-year period ending on the date of the appraisal barred from presenting evidence or testimony before the Department of the Treasury or the Internal Revenue Service pursuant to 31 U.S.C. 330(c).”

If the value of donated things is over $250 then there needs to be written acknowladgement for proof. You could just write in what you brought but when I said blank, I mean that I've been handed invoice paper (the type you'd get at a dollar store) with absolutely nothing written on it. There were some places that didn't even want to give me anything.

Regardless, taking pictures of the items like you said is a good way to prove that you did it. Anything less than $250 doesn't apply, but the 2nd and 3rd tier might.