Mega Rad Gun Thread

[John Badman]

I’m worried about how my gun will take the gassing. If I’m not ejecting around 4 to 5 o’clock with a suppressor how can I change that without an adjustable gas block?

The front sight base is pinned currently, I was planning on trying to take it off anyways when my Troy m4 45° offset BUIS arrive. I’m not sure if I can throw a new gas block on a monolithic upper though, can I?

 

[BallsMcLongDong]

Saving to finally get my PAL (leaf gun license) not going for restricted yet because I haven't had much experience with semi-autos quite just yet to really know what I want, but currently want a repeating rifle, just curious to see what your opinions are on them, I have always thought they were cool regardless of cowboy material.

I don't think you'll find a single person serious about shooting who won't tell you to get a lever action.
They are one of the most reliable, diverse types of rifles out there. Everything from killing squirrels to killing Old Gods that rise from the lakes. And there are millions upon millions of them.
If you want prestige and because you will have fewer guns in your collection, get a classic like a Pre-64 Win94. If you want something with endless aftermarket support, get yourself a Henry. Caliber is up to you, not sure what you're planning on doing. .357 and .44 is plentiful, goes in revolvers to complete the larp, and can even be used to hunt bigger game.
I am partial to 30-30 and 45-70 government, because they are old cartridges and will very quickly problem solve even big-big game.
Even though they are some of the oldest and most plentiful cartridges, there is a cost there. I think 30-30, despite being the first cartridge designed for smokeless powder and being the most popular round for lever actions for about 100 years, is up to $1.25 a round.

 

[Club Sandwich]

If I’m not ejecting around 4 to 5 o’clock with a suppressor how can I change that without an adjustable gas block?

bolt velocity tuning with the action spring and buffer weight (total recoiling mass).

 

[John Badman]

bolt velocity tuning with the action spring and buffer weight (total recoiling mass).

So I need to get a gas busting charging handle and see if I need to change my colt H buffer to an H2 if it doesn’t work out of the box. Thanks!

 

[BallsMcLongDong]

bolt velocity tuning with the action spring and buffer weight (total recoiling mass).

Agreed, there are ways to adjust non-adjustable guns, and the answer is usually springs.

 

[MrB]

gas busting charging handle

Get a tube of silicone gasket maker and make a seal between your charging handle and upper. Cheaper and way more effective than any gasbusting handle I’ve bought. There’s a few tutorials on Reddit for it.

 

[crab fucker]

I am partial to 30-30 and 45-70 government, because they are old cartridges and will very quickly problem solve even big-big game.
Even though they are some of the oldest and most plentiful cartridges, there is a cost there. I think 30-30, despite being the first cartridge designed for smokeless powder and being the most popular round for lever actions for about 100 years, is up to $1.25 a round.

Believe you me, I'm fucking feeling the $1.25 too. And yeah, get a lever-action fellas, very fun and you might be surprised at how well you shoot them. The newer Marlins that are made by Ruger are pretty damn good but they're also charging out the ass for them so it's kind of a monkey's paw rn.

Edit:
NIGGA!!!

 

[WhoBusTank69]

NIGGA!!!

The speculative market claims all hobbies. It's bad enough that modern Marlin(Ruger) is very expensive.

 

[Romulus augustulus]

Believe you me, I'm fucking feeling the $1.25 too. And yeah, get a lever-action fellas, very fun and you might be surprised at how well you shoot them. The newer Marlins that are made by Ruger are pretty damn good but they're also charging out the ass for them so it's kind of a monkey's paw rn.

Edit:
NIGGA!!!
View attachment 6650366

The classic series is not in full production yet and is subject to price gouging ATM. Like the new colt python's were for awhile

The speculative market claims all hobbies. It's bad enough that modern Marlin(Ruger) is very expensive.

They're making them at a high quality now that they feel justifies the price. The new Marlins are very good. almost as good as the Miroku Winchesters. Winchester still has them beat on blueing quality and wood but if you are going for a stainless w/ laminate stocks that doesn't matter. I'm really tempted by the trapper series (a ridiculous name but i digress). I got to handle one and was very impressed with it.

 

[Romulus augustulus]

"Not For Resale
Commercial Use Only"

someone messed up. but i won't tell.

 

[Pocket Dragoon]

New Chicom 8.6mm/.338 MG

---

And now for something not completely different:

 

[Belgians in the Congo]

8.6mm/.338 MG

They really are just copying absolutely everything the West invents without looking into the why, reminds me of their keyholing bullpups since they somehow didn't realize twist rates actually matter.
quick someone shill them 1 in 3 as the latest in US firearms development

 

[crab fucker]

The classic series is not in full production yet and is subject to price gouging ATM. Like the new colt python's were for awhile

They're making them at a high quality now that they feel justifies the price. The new Marlins are very good. almost as good as the Miroku Winchesters. Winchester still has them beat on blueing quality and wood but if you are going for a stainless w/ laminate stocks that doesn't matter. I'm really tempted by the trapper series (a ridiculous name but i digress). I got to handle one and was very impressed with it.

I just hope the gouging actually stops sooner rather than later. The Ruger Marlins and JM Marlins (at a non raped price point) are probably some of the best side-ejecting lever actions for the price rn. I own one of the newer Henry lever actions that has both a kingsgate and a removeable magazine tube, but I honestly still think Marlins just feel better in the hand tbh.

Those Miroku are fuggin beautiful though not gonna lie.

 

[AGPinochet]

A gross tranny (POWER WORD: MICHAEL CRUMLING, Born 1989) has made an AR out of scrap metal with a few COTS parts, it is functional and full auto (He is an SOTranny)

This gross tranny (which I just made another post about in the Guntuber thread) has more recently made this cool Integrally suppressed Ruger Standard that deviates from the "traditional" continuous diameter integral suppressor design


Russian SOBR Officer with TP9

Export model QBZ-191 in 7.62x39 at a recent Chinese arms expo. Expect these to be seen in the 2040's in the hands of the hordes of Jihadi's that are going to take over large parts of Africa by that time. In the back you can also see the 5.56 export model


And here's the .308 export model



Prototype Russian SR-2 Veresk


Drawings of other concepts


Lee Enfield modified into an integrally suppressed takedown rifle


Apparently back in the day the guy behind the Gyrojet actually managed to kill a deer with one



Chopped and converted G3 in the Khyber Pass


Domestically produced Iraqi side charging upper


Fishgun and a Kitty Cat


RP-46 during one of the Liberian civil wars


9A-91 in use with Syrian SF


QBZ-192 with extended charging handle and mall ninja "ergonomic" charging bracelet (the idea is that when you have a malfunction you just jerk your hand back)






Type 67 integrally suppressed pistol


Standalone adapter for a KAC Masterkey


@Club Sandwich
Does welding two receivers together make them one receiver legally speaking (I assume that would be the case but I am curious)

 

[John Badman]

What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.

I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?

 

[Geoff Capes Vapes Apes]

What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.

I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?

I use high temp grease on the operating parts of anything manually operated, and engine oil for anything self loading/anti-rust. Gun-specific lubricants are snake oil imo.

 

[AGPinochet]

They really are just copying absolutely everything the West invents without looking into the why

Shooting people who are far away?

reminds me of their keyholing bullpups

This supposed "Issue" was recorded once with the QBZ-191 (not the -95) in a shoothouse environment (non lethal training rounds) and has never appeared since

Suppressed low velocity 25mm Barrett prototype


Bullpup Vepr




Black Rain Ordnance "Freedom Fighter"


Sedgley Glove Gun in a Taiwanese muesem



QBZ-191 BCG


Taiwanese Police with a Striker

Crossfire Model 88 Semi auto combination gun. Has two side by side magazines. Have no idea how it feeds as there is a huge distance between the top barrel and the top of the magazine , you're probably familiar with the 5.56/12G pump action only model but the rifle barrel on this one is .308


Savage Model 1903, pump action yet magazine fed, has a bolt hold open to prevent firing on an empty chamber


QBS-11 Knife gun in 5.8x21mm


Ukrainian "Corsac" AK Modernization next a Malyuk AK Bullpup Conversion

Asgard Defense M127 Kriger, last update on it was July 2021 and the company website is defunct (FFL is still active though according to FFL's.com)

Before they ventured into manufacturing they engaged in conversion and upgrade work, as this is a Benelli M4

Some Knife company called Max Venom made a "Bump Lock" for a Glock, It retails for $200 on Performancetriggers.com

Instead of paying that retarded price for something that is worse than that still in development DIY FRT option a fosscad guy CAD'd a clone up


They also make this thing


You're supposed to be able to CC it but I don't understand where the gun is supposed to be in this showcase image

 

[Club Sandwich]

Does welding two receivers together make them one receiver legally speaking

yes and no. by the book, a receiver is a chunk of plastic/metal until it's assigned a serial number and booked into a manufacturer's inventory. if a receiver is damaged and repaired with the same serial number, it's the same firearm/frame/receiver and no further work is needed. if you have two serialized items (two receivers, a receiver and a suppressor, et c) then they are considered one item with the serial number of the "active" receiver being the make/model, or a new serial number representing the conjoined receiver is created. when they are separated is when the other serial number is recorded again.

for your example, i've done some similar things, although not permanently, and the rule i was told was that one of the receivers becomes the firearm (or make a new serial number/make/model and book it in as a new firearm entirely to represent the conjoined object) and the other becomes a controlled accessory. what is a controlled accessory? a controlled item that has features "bolted on" to it. a masterkey is a short barreled shotgun when attached to a rifle, and has it's own serial number and frame. however the rifle is still the "main" firearm in and of itself, and if its from a factory in this configuration it is possible to issue one serial number and have a unique model for this conjoined system (meaning no serial number on the shotgun portion) if the shotgun is a permanent attachment to the rifle. drilling rifles or combination rifles don't fit this definition as they have one receiver and multiple barrels/calibers, and in your specific example of a lengthened receiver being manufactured, the end product must have a serial number, but one or both of the two original receivers used for the lengthening must either never have had serial numbers (so they were parts put together), or one of them is recorded as destroyed when permanently attached to the new receiver.

I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob.

if you mean break-free CLP, it leaves a dry film lubricant on surfaces as the carrier fluid evaporates. this is intentional because wet lubricated surfaces attract and retain particle debris. rifles are stored vertically in a rack for convenience. an enclosed space that is climate/humidity controlled like a well kept closet, and a yearly inspection and detailed cleaning/lubrication should be fine if not ideal. ideal would mean they have a uniquely controlled environment for storage (cool/dry throughout the year and not exposed to condensation). if you use your rifle more or if its exposed to the elements regularly, a schedule of preventative maintenance every couple thousand rounds and each week (or every other day, end of each day if you're on a camping trip or when deployed) combined with an inspection and field cleaning prior to deployment is plenty for general readiness.

 

[DirectorDelta]

What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.

I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?

How to lubricate you gun always comes down to personal preference, so take it with a grain of salt. With that out of the way, I've found Gunfighter Gun Oil doesn't seem to dry out quickly as Hoppe's or any brand of CLP I've tried. Most of my guns have some oil left on them after sitting in their cases for a month, including my carry gun. As for your issue of lubrication not traveling into the buffer and trigger group pin, the way it's standing or set isn't going to be the biggest factor of helping them stay lubricated as much as applying oil to the specified area regularly and keeping the gun closed up as much as possible. Depending on your rifle, keep the bolt closed, dust covers shut and a mag seated will help prevent the oil drying out any quicker than it does so already.

 

[Taser Confetti]

What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.

I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?

I've pretty much stuck with Breakfree CLP and Lucas Oil CLP. I use a bore snake in the appropriate caliber and a metric fuck ton of Q-Tips. Hasn't failed me yet.

Only all metal guns like CZ75's and 1911's I like to use a tiny amount of either Lucas Oil Grease or Lucas Oil Red N Tacky Grease.