Mega Rad Gun Thread

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The Shield is a subcompact 9mm with the ability to mount an optic. The Bodyguard 2.0 is a .380 pocket pistol. Either one can stop a fight just fine and while some folks do carry their Bodyguards in belt holsters, I think it does its best work as a pocket pistol, to be carried in a pocket when you're "not carrying a gun" for whatever reason.

I did not like the factory sights that came on the Bodyguard. Mine came mounted off-center but even if they weren't, I'm not a fan of their design. My Bodyguard is also picky as fuck about what it feeds. I've only gotten 2 of the 7 types of HPs I've tried to reliably feed in it. I'll probably just run ball ammo in it. The Shield eats whatever.
Can you fix the off center sight issue or do you have to get an entirely new slide?
 

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I don't have comprehensive knowledge of what .380 JHPs are available now but if memory serves, they did not reliably expand in an old meat target test and were basically pointless. I have extreme penetrators in my .380s.
All 380s have penetration issues and tend to fall short of the FBI test. Of those on the market, the Hornady critical defense is probably the best. About 5 years ago Federal tried to solve the .380 problem with .30 super carry, which should tell you all you need to know about how good of a solution it was.
 
Can you fix the off center sight issue or do you have to get an entirely new slide?
It's very simple to resolve. Drift one or both sights in their respective dovetails with a hammer and a non-marring punch until they're centered. Use whatever method you prefer to verify this, check your results with live fire. Definitely don't need a new slide.
 
I'm not convinced. Nitriding has been used on combat rifles before
We are forgetting here the POU of both processes.
Nitriding is a steel heat treating process to add a wear resistant layer. Aircraft engine cylinders have their bores nitrided for the same purpose. Its a wear resisting item, and was introduced for that reason.
Chrome lining was introduced specifically for corrosion resistance. Its why AKs and Arisakas used it, and its why it was introduced on the later M16A1s. The POU for chrome lining has always been corrosion resistance.
OK I'll bite!
Is it 3 postion? I've got a reweld vz61 I built a few months ago and I've had a hankering for a 3 postion frt for it.
 
The POU for chrome lining has always been corrosion resistance.
Also heat resistance, every machinegun in the world uses chrome. It hits the spot for rigidity in intense heat to not warp the barrel. Nitriding does help too, but not as much. Shooting cadence and frequency heavily affects nitrides longevity. It would last just as long (?) as chrome if the barrel was to cool off between each shot. Hypothetically at least. Technically it is the "harder" material, just much thinner.
 
doesn't everything bigger than .32 meet the FBI standards or were the tests i looked at retarded
What tests did you look at? The problem is 380 has lighter projectiles and lower velocities then 124gr 9mm. Even today 124gr struggles with the FBI test. Good 380s that open consistently tend to fall into 9-11” of penetration in calibrated gel. It’s not a bad caliber but there are definitely tradeoffs to be made when carrying it.
 
What tests did you look at? The problem is 380 has lighter projectiles and lower velocities then 124gr 9mm. Even today 124gr struggles with the FBI test. Good 380s that open consistently tend to fall into 9-11” of penetration in calibrated gel. It’s not a bad caliber but there are definitely tradeoffs to be made when carrying it.
.380 ACP hollow points are more marketing gimick, than useful IMO. I dont even bother with them in my Thunder. Either the expansion isnt consistent or it doesnt penetrate deep enough like you said. And the overpenetration from the FMJ's is minimal from the tests Ive watched on YouTube, most of the time in Paul Harrells meat targets (and other tests done by other guntubers) it was stopped by the T shirt or the first layer of fleece in the Hi-Tech fleece bullet backstop. To my mind the point of a hollow point is to avoid over penetration and dump all the bullets energy into the target. If you dont have to worry about over penetration for the most part, and the expansion is inconsistent or prevents proper penetration, the whole point of using them is pretty much moot. At least with FMJ's you double the amount of holes you put in your target by adding an exit wound.
 
I saw those when I was shopping around for grips, let us know what you think because the look is gradually growing on me and I think I'll consider them again. Probably not brass because it smells bad.

I'm actually a big brass and copper fan. Wicked Grips occasionally offers really cool 1911 grips made of copper, and I may get a set eventually. I will absolutely update on the grips when they arrive. They do offer the same grips and the more utilitarian "Work" grips in aluminum as well. Either raw, black, or kind of a burnt bronze called Tano. They are less expensive than the brass. I'm kinda digging their straight trigger for the Python as well.

After holding one I found out the grip angle doesn't do it for me but I wanted an Artillery variant for a while because reasons.
View attachment 9460749

They actually feel really good to me. Bill Ruger based the grip angle on the Standard/Mark series pistols on the Luger because he believed the Luger grip was one of the best target pistol grips ever designed.
 
I want a Mauser C96 and a Navy Luger in the worst way.
Luger was one of my first dream guns. Completely got obsessed with the function of it; I got deep into 3d modeling one and printing hundreds of parts to get a functioning replica that would cycle snap caps.

Finally acquired a real one.

Man it is the hands down worst trigger out of any firearm I have ever shot. Fucking mousetrap of surfaces hitting surfaces. Mushy and one of the most undefined breaks i've ever felt. It feels like crushing a cardboard cigarette pack and then you hit a steamed carrot break.
My 3d printed replica probably breaks crisper.

Still love them though.
 
One last addendum from me for the nitriding discussion. Nitriding affects the entire barrel not just the bore which makes machining/modification difficult. It works by diffusing nitrogen into the metal's surface structure via gas or solution baths. The resulting treatment is very hard (as much as 70+ Rockwell) so many cutting tools and drill bits are physically incapable of penetrating it. One time I had to take the surface down with emery paper because my annual cutter wasn't hard enough to bite the material. I've also had trouble using theading dies on just about every nitride barrel I've owned so that's something to consider if you plan on chopping your shit in the future. You can still re-crown them fine but anything around the outer diameter is a pain in the ass.
 
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