Mega Rad Gun Thread

I want to start an epic keyboard smashing debate here: :jaceknife:

I don't think modern silencer baffle design does that much, and I am willing to be proved wrong.

I think the best answer to the gas expansion problem is large volume and easy flow, and that thin baffles with large expansion chambers beat the odd squares and triangles in modern cans. See figure 1.

View attachment 5640500

The hypothesis that odd and irregular shapes disrupt gas flow is true, of course, but I think what would be more helpful is a reduction of exhaust gasses to atmospheric temperature and pressure before they escape the end of the gun. Cars have RPMs higher than machine guns, but are quieter than most silenced rifles. I was inspired by what turned out to be a mistaken view of car mufflers on my part, which is amusing if you know the history of how those came to be.
I would like to preface this post by stating that I am by no means an engineer and I have only the vaguest notions as to how fluid dynamics in relation to suppressor construction works.

The real problem with suppressor design is that suppressors must be balancing acts or entirely lopsided in their performance. If you want full auto rated, 400 rounds of magdumped belted 5.56 capability, your suppressor is going to be heavy and probably sizable, you will need it to be made of comparatively exotic materials using complex manufacturing methods. If you want your suppressor to be very lightweight you will have to use titanium (or even aluminum in the case of rimfire but aluminum comes with it's own bevy of problems), it will most certainly not be full auto rated, hell it may not even be rapid semi auto rated, it will be expensive and it will spark if the baffles are not sufficiently coated in carbon. But departing from material choices there are even decisions regarding baffle types that must be made, Baffles designed around bolt guns/maximum suppression will look like traffic cones, the baffles on the SOCOM RC2 look like washers with little dents in them but I believe also have vents in some of them.

The other problem with suppressor design is that it has been retarded for so long by culture and legislation , that, and the fundamental limits of physics. Kevin Brittingham of AAC/Q describes that an original Maxim .22 Silencer is not all that much inferior in performance than that of an unspecified modern .22 suppressor.
I'm looking to purchase a new ccw. I've been watching alot of videos on .357 sig and I really like the performance from everything I've seen. But I keep hearing it's a round that is being phased out and theres really only two companies even making modern pistols chambering the thing: Glock and Sig. Not to mention that the price of even the cheap stuff is quite high. What are your guys thoughts on it? Am I better off sticking with 9mm? Or would something like 40 s&w be a wiser choice? Like I said I've looked into quite a bit but I always appreciate input from other Farmers
Here's the problem with all other ccw cartridges that are not 9mm, they are not 9mm.
Every person actually qualified to speak on the subject (shooting instructor, wound scientist, surgeon, doctor, ballisitc researcher etc etc) will tell you two things in regards to handgun wounding potential

1. Up to a certain point, handgun "power factor" (fps and ftlbs) is kind of a meme (While yes a .44 Mag out of an 8'' handcannon will in fact kill you deader than a .380 from a 3'' mouse gun it will not kill you deader enough that you need to carry one to effectively defend yourself)
2. The more holes, the better. Bullets that do not impact the Central Nervous System (CNS) incapacitate either by pain response or exsanguation (a meth head can't peel your face off if his heart isn't beating due to lack of blood). A contributing factor to putting more holes in a threat in a given amount of time (in a defensive shooting you have distance and time, the distance between you and your attacker(s), the time it will take them to get to you and the time it will take them to be rendered nonthreatening if they are struck but not immediately incapacitated) is the recoil of your cartridge, it's a fact that smaller cartidges with less recoil are easier to shoot quickly and accurately for most people. There is a reason that almost every western LE/Mil/CT etc organization that matters either is currently using or is adopting 9mm handguns potentially after a period of playing with .40 S&W.

So in addition to being cheaper, more readily available, having better support (in 10 years time, will you be able to buy a replacement .357 Glock barrel? You will be able to buy a replacement Glock 19 barrel) .357 doesn't really kick 9mm's ass ballistically either as shown below

Governor of Montana, Greg Gianforte fires the Olympus Arms Vulcan long recoil rifle. Apparently Olympus is investing $50M dollars in the state (That doesn't sound right to me but okay)

ATF Los Angeles reveals that ATF has seized 31,000 illicit machineguns in the "last 5 years" (2018-2023? they're still quoting seizure numbers from 2021 in some press conferences)


New Holosun SCS Carry (enclosed version of the earlier SCS)
1705508503751.png

The SCS line is also expanding to the CZ P10
1705508536308.png

Guerilla 3012, by the Black Lotus Coalition
1705508702802.png

I have discovered a bizzare youtube channel that features homemade firearms among other content

1705508836805.png

FGC-9 seized in the zionist entity (you may know it as i*rael)
Looks to be outfitted for use by Tunnel Jews engaging in subterranean warfare
1705508937203.png

What was then, What is now.
1705509091316.png

Машина смерти (Шепчущийся)
1705509161177.png

There's something about an AK-74 with no accessories but a suppressor that is left in the white
1705509329971.png

1705509492222.png

1705509575525.png

AGCast has released his This Month in Beta video for December, only two designs are covered and both are suppressors
 

Attachments

  • 1705508642865.png
    1705508642865.png
    3.3 MB · Views: 16
$93 for an AK sounds interesting until it blows apart in a firefight.
Supposedly they generally work ok enough, no explosions, but you really do get what you pay for, with the finish and chrome lining rubbing off like it's nothing, struggling to always cycle when at high angles in high altitudes, and a "maybe" for parts interchangeability.
If you need a lot of rifles now, and don't have much money, it's a LOT better than nothing, or relying on old Mausers and Nagants.
 
Have you looked at Pew Science's stuff? He's real big on peak dB being a stupid metric as well and has begun mapping the entire sound wave of the suppressor.

View attachment 5641716
no... Looks like someone else is trying to build a better metric. Good for them, if it works I hope we adopt it.

Regarding the ATF and automatics... CA would love to tell you there are no NFA devices in a state that does not allow for NFA private ownership. I will mention something very interesting though, I think I brought this up previously. In CA in places where you can lawfully purchase ammo many shops have designated suppressor use ball ammo, not just subsonic heavier loads but true under-powered factory ammo marketed for suppressors. So... why are they selling it? Well the short answer is obviously people are buying it enough to have the truck bring a pallet of the stuff every month and the shop to make a profit selling it. So, does that mean that tens of thousands of CA firearm owners like how the box looks or is something else going on here?
06--Freedom-Hush-9mm-165-s-o__70747.jpg
 
I got a bit of a philosophical question.

Is it better to own 3 AR-15s of the same build roughly with all the same identical parts.

Or 3 AR-15s of different builds.

Like one is a full blown M16 clone and one is a M4 clone and one is a middy with an A2 stock for example.

Or own three builds that are all M4A1 clones.
 
press on some kind of thread extention
the typical method used is if there is enough meat on the barrel to turn it down and match with a sleeve that is is then pinned/soldered in place and threaded appropriately, or if there isn't enough meat to either turn down and build up with weld until you get 0.685" and thread 5/8 x 24 from there. if you have less than that or a weird shoulder, then build up with weld until 0.600" and thread to 1/2 x 28.

also secret trick is that 9/16 x 24 exists commonly enough that adapters are readily available for most suppressors and popular muzzle devices. you can get away with 0.5625 on the barrel and 0.125 at the shoulder, but is absolute bare minimum i would trust.
better than 9mm, arguably better than .40 S&W, but a good 9mm you can shoot well and shoot often is better. .357 SIG has a niche application of compact handguns like the P239, however again, good 9mm will beat it. getting into .380 Auto and .32 ACP you aren't gaining magazine capacity typically in pocket carry pieces, and while .380 and .32 will do the job if you do yours, .357 has excellent light barrier penetration which can be important if defending from inside a vehicle or through an interior door (bathroom/closet door for example).
However, these days they apparently cut corners like fucking crazy on their AKs as to make them the 'Saturday Night Special of Assault Rifles' to borrow a phrase from a histrionic fat woman.
big oof, but i guess shows my experience with Norinco firearms is from decades ago.
So... why are they selling it?
9mm has been used illicitly for single shot hunting and poaching for decades, up there with the .22LR. in CA there are a good number of 9mm firearms with thread adapted oil can suppressors that work reasonably well enough to be worth the money asked. also Hush works pretty good for indoor ranges and is popular for that use.
 
Were bayonets effective on the M16A4 and is it possible to do a bayonet charge with them without hurting the rifle like it was done in World War 1 or in the video game Battlefield 1?
i don't know about effective, but the rifle can be used with a bayonet for close quarters fighting without any issues from all the years i've used one in training, training others, breaking down doors/windows/boards.
Like others, I did bayonet training with the A4 (and I guess technically the pugil sticks too) but I definitely never used a bayonet on another human being. Hey Clubby, have you ever done that or know anyone that did? I mean, I heard stories but I think they're probably bullshit.

One thing I can tell you for sure is that a related type of technique works well: the muzzle strike. It is technically a "less-lethal" technique but you can damn sure near kill someone with it.
I wish there was a .32 revival, where Ruger would bring out an LCP32, and some companies would start rolling out some nice and affordable plinking ammo, along with some good defensive loads.
I wonder if a better bullet design might elevate the fight-stopping capability of this round. Or maybe because of its form factor modern ammo has it as good as it's going to get.
The more holes, the better. Bullets that do not impact the Central Nervous System (CNS) incapacitate either by pain response or exsanguation (a meth head can't peel your face off if his heart isn't beating due to lack of blood). A contributing factor to putting more holes in a threat in a given amount of time (in a defensive shooting you have distance and time, the distance between you and your attacker(s), the time it will take them to get to you and the time it will take them to be rendered nonthreatening if they are struck but not immediately incapacitated) is the recoil of your cartridge, it's a fact that smaller cartidges with less recoil are easier to shoot quickly and accurately for most people. There is a reason that almost every western LE/Mil/CT etc organization that matters either is currently using or is adopting 9mm handguns potentially after a period of playing with .40 S&W.
Couldn't agree more with this. Even if you're like me and tend to prefer carrying a 10mm, especially when wearing more cover garments is normal, everything written here is true.
I got a bit of a philosophical question.

Is it better to own 3 AR-15s of the same build roughly with all the same identical parts.

Or 3 AR-15s of different builds.

Like one is a full blown M16 clone and one is a M4 clone and one is a middy with an A2 stock for example.

Or own three builds that are all M4A1 clones.
So on one hand for tools with moving parts I do subscribe to the "one is none and two is one" rule. I do lean more on that when I'm doing something that could require quick access to the replacement tool if the primary one fails, though that tends to be things like flashlights when doing construction type work or fire steels when camping. For firearms I utilize it only for training classes or competitions.

So if doing one of the builds that are all identical or nearly identical you could certainly say you're covered should one of the rifles have a serious problem. That stated, especially if they're all the same caliber there's so much overlap between ARs that if you absolutely must cannibalize another rifle for parts I still think 3 decently different rifles would be my suggestion here.

20" bull barrel .223 Wylde
18-20" HBAR builds have a special place in my heart. No clue why and I see no need to find out.

Edited to add: I wonder if this will be a good .22 LR round for taking small game in something like a Ruger MkIV. I've send a shit ton of CCI Stingers downrange and I've always liked them. What do you all think?
 
Last edited:
Hey Clubby, have you ever done that or know anyone that did?
i've used (and still have) my issued bayonet that has seen some offensive use, but mostly as a tool for various anti-vehicle and window purposes. it's also great for those stupid wire wraps so common in Iraq to close up yards. i had a guy in my unit that used his attached to his rifle to threaten people that did not obey the checkpoint "stop here" rule and refused to roll down the window for paperwork. there was also a guy (Ranger) that nabbed a CQ confirmed with the brown MRE spoon (the dark brown one, not the nu-spoon that's light brown).

honestly a lot of melee action was done with sledgehammers, rifle stocks (M21, M16, M590, one guy who used an M3 tripod...) and random debris. best one was a piece of rebar with some concrete stuck on the end used to break down a couple doors then thrown at some last ditch IRG's head.

good times.

i also agree that the muzzle strike is an excellent tool as long as you are striking with it and not digging with it (too many can make that mistake too easily and get something swaged into the birdcage and ask for trouble). the Troy "Medieval" brake was really nice to break stuff with and for poking. i did try a Colt 727 with a "Phantom" brake on it (i think it was YHM maybe) and that worked pretty good too, better than the troy at hiding flash at night, worse than the Troy when actually shooting at things since the Troy kept dust down and had a nicer projection of gas a bit forward and away.

that's old school tech these days and there are some pretty good aftermarket muzzle devices that are excellent. it's just hard to beat the economical performance of the A2.

edit: from personal experience, the older M7 bayonet is an excellent sentry removal tool if you lacked something more appropriate. i never used an M6 or M9 for direct action, just as a tool against objects.

18-20" HBAR builds
Compass Lake (or White Oak, et c) HBAR 18" with .223 Wyld and a matched bolt makes a mean SPR esque build. slap a quality drop in trigger of choice, some PRI/JPE/EMG parts and take pie plates at 1km.
 
Last edited:
@Club Sandwich

Won't allow me to auto quote for some reason,

My point being is the only logical conclusion is they sell so much of it because it heavily implies there are thousands of 9mm suppressors within CA. When you say works good for indoor ranges? In my experience the further you go from 115-124 grain 9mm ball the more likely you will get a malfunction, 165 grain costs more, is less reliable, whats the benefit if there is no can?

Regarding my AK muzzle situation, I think what I'm going to do is turn the OD from .545 down to .500 and thread to 1/2"-28. I can just make (or better yet buy) a 1/2-28 to 5/8-24 adapter. from there I'll have the option to attach any 5/8-24 muzzle device I could want. Plan B would be to buy a 1/2-28 muzzle device and rebore those out to .330" ID. This way I can still remove my front sight block, my gas block if necessary. I don't know if you guys have ever done any lathe work but single point internal threads on a small part on a lathe can be a fucking nightmare.

61iYj9-DzzS._SL1500_.jpgs-l1600.jpg
 
edit: from personal experience, the older M7 bayonet is an excellent sentry removal tool if you lacked something more appropriate. i never used an M6 or M9 for direct action, just as a tool against objects.
I read the M7 bayonet is being replaced with a fatter looking knife.

And I find the M9 to be fat and try hard 1980s cliche action movie looking.

The M7 is nice and sharp and lean, which is probably most important when trying a bayonet charge since shorter surface area is greater force.
 
@Club Sandwich

Won't allow me to auto quote for some reason,

My point being is the only logical conclusion is they sell so much of it because it heavily implies there are thousands of 9mm suppressors within CA. When you say works good for indoor ranges? In my experience the further you go from 115-124 grain 9mm ball the more likely you will get a malfunction, 165 grain costs more, is less reliable, whats the benefit if there is no can?

Regarding my AK muzzle situation, I think what I'm going to do is turn the OD from .545 down to .500 and thread to 1/2"-28. I can just make (or better yet buy) a 1/2-28 to 5/8-24 adapter. from there I'll have the option to attach any 5/8-24 muzzle device I could want. Plan B would be to buy a 1/2-28 muzzle device and rebore those out to .330" ID. This way I can still remove my front sight block, my gas block if necessary. I don't know if you guys have ever done any lathe work but single point internal threads on a small part on a lathe can be a fucking nightmare.

View attachment 5643639View attachment 5643640

I’ve had good luck out of KNS precision for adapters.
 
KNS precision for adapters.

That's a quality device but, I don't think I'm going to be putting a can on this rife, AK's suppress very poorly and I already have a very nice .30 caliber AR in the sneaky man's cartridge, .300 BLK. This is to able to put a brake and blast forward cup. If I was putting a $500 can or a form 1 I spent week making I'd go premium.

Speaking of lathe work. The AK muzzle was mounted between centers on the lathe, .545 OD became .500 OD and then I singe point threaded for 1/2-28.

Factory
factory .jpg

sight removed 1/2-28 threaded

fresh cut 12-28.jpg

This is my experimental AK BUIS idea, I have never seen an AK with flip up front sights. I have seen some designs I was not impressed with for too much money for a piece of metal I can form myself. The part is a an Al tube ID roughly 15mm, OD .750" or so, I have a ton of Al rail left over from my Ruger project I posted previously here. it has been drilled and tapped for 3 8-32 screws. The center screw interacts with a small hole drilled into the 12o'clock at the barrel, the other two also apply auxiliary pressure to the barrel and of course hold the rail. This will be painted with some kind of firearms grade epoxy during the final finishing process of this project. Magpul stock and grip have already been earmarked for this project so a magpul front flip up BUIS will be added.

my mods.jpg
 
Supposedly they generally work ok enough, no explosions, but you really do get what you pay for, with the finish and chrome lining rubbing off like it's nothing, struggling to always cycle when at high angles in high altitudes, and a "maybe" for parts interchangeability.
If you need a lot of rifles now, and don't have much money, it's a LOT better than nothing, or relying on old Mausers and Nagants.
True although when your budget for AKs maxes out at ~$100..... Where did you go wrong?
I got a bit of a philosophical question.

Is it better to own 3 AR-15s of the same build roughly with all the same identical parts.

Or 3 AR-15s of different builds.

Like one is a full blown M16 clone and one is a M4 clone and one is a middy with an A2 stock for example.

Or own three builds that are all M4A1 clones.
Three of different builds

One 20 inch, one 16 inch and one SBR or oddity
 
Last edited:
RE: Machine pistols

I've been pondering the "MP5K we have at home" thing for a bit, and here's my best crack at a budget solution:
View attachment 5641981
The fact is that a machine pistol the size of a pistol will fail, so if you just add comp/stubby like it's BF4 and maybe a decent stock, you've doubled its size and quadrupled its effectiveness.

Hypothetically doable for less than $500USD, but don't do it if it's illegal in your jurisdiction. I support all laws and the brave men who enforce them.
I own a switch (or rather my shop does) and I have kicked around the idea of using a G17L. I think it would be perfect for this exact configuration but my only concern is sear length of the switch itself, I have never had my hands on a G17L so I'm not sure if it'd be the same as a G17, I'm assuming it is. Worse case I make a specific sear for it, no biggie
 
  • Like
Reactions: LGHDR+
Back