"Post your Art" Thread

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Trying to create my own references so drew this up based on an old photo of me(left) and loved how it turned out pig.jpg
 
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I spent two hours on this piece of shit and I genuinely want to know, tablet fags, how long does it take to git gud. Particularly in the linework and hatching department. What do I have to do to git gud or should I just kms. (I know its the second, dont tell me)
Illustration7.png

I'm seriously getting frustrated with digital, I have absolutely no line control and I feel like I'm better off on paper, I have a lot more fun too. The only reason why I'm still trying is cause paper is dead and I'd better get myself skilled in digital. I really want to get to a miura level of skill quick and this is really not helping. I don't know the guy's name, Mr Android rights, I'd like to hear your two cents since you're the expert.
 
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Georgio Cocklord said:
I spent two hours on this piece of shit and I genuinely want to know, tablet fags, how long does it take to git gud.
Click to expand...
First of all you should chill out and lose this attitude of "I NEED TO GET GUD OR KMS PAPER IS FUCKING DEAD", that's some ignorant low self esteem shit.
Secondly, it took me maybe a month to adapt to a tablet, one of the big tips I can give you is to make sure that the tablet is aligned with your monitor (if your monitor is at an angle, make sure your tablet is at the same angle on your desk). Idk what tablet you have but you can order special nibs that have a rougher texture so you don't need to tape butcher paper over the tablet surface. Try decreasing your tablet's pressure sensitivity, you'll lower the nib life but it might help with traction. In terms of hatching and linework, you probably weren't much better on paper (which isn't "dead"). The indentations in the paper, as well as the texture, tones, brightness, light reflectivity, etc act as a sort of "filter" that makes your paper art look better than on a flat white screen. Moving to a tablet will not improve your art suddenly. Hatching should be thought of as binary shading, don't think of each line as an individual mark. Rather try to understand that the density and layering of the lines is creating a darker value, learn to trust that hatching over an area will not obscure it.
As for linework, don't listen to anybody who says you shouldn't use a stabilizer, it's not "cheating" and nib pens and brushes IRL come with built in stabilizers so that's a dumb argument. Eventually you'll build up the control and confidence to draw clean lines when you want, but I still like to stabilize certain brushes for an authentic effect. Consider your light source as well, a general simplified rule of thumb: lines opposite to light source are thicker, lines that are closer to the viewer are thicker, outlines are thicker. Inking takes time and it's easy to underestimate how much attention to detail is involved with sculpting each line to make it dynamic.

Right now, if I were you, I'd focus on making sure that you're drawing with 3D forms and thinking about the light source.
 
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