BIFL: Buy it for Life (the Good Stuff General) - or, Anti-Consumerist Consumerism

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I've had this rock since I was a kid. Last rock I've ever needed. It'd great for bashing stuff with or using it as a weight or keeping it as a pet and what have you. Get yourself one of those metamorphic rocks none that cheap sedimentary shit.
 
Lot of stuff here about cold weather, as an extreme cold weather kiwi (above 61 degrees lat) I'll start this post and come back to it when I get back from the doctor:

Shoes: This appears to be unpopular but I prefer Timberlands myself, I use steeltoes as every day footwear since I hate hurting my feet and I've been wearing Pit Bosses since they first came out, they're comfortable and reasonably good traction on the ice.

Boots: I used to be a Sorel man, but as others have stated their build quality has tanked since they're no longer made in Canada. To solve this problem I've switched to Baffins for my serious extreme cold weather outdoor boots, my current pair of Baffins is impossibly comfy and durable and they don't quit no matter how long I'm outside.

Watches: Honestly you can't go wrong with Casio and Timex fellas, they work well in the cold and don't quit on you.

Coat: I've seen some different opinions on this, Carhartt is great but my problem is they don't make them big enough for me (I'm almost 7 feet). I personally endorse Refrigiwear, even their newest coats and snowsuits are quality and last forever, I've got a big bear of a coat from the 90s that keeps me nice and toasty even with heavy wind chill

ETA okay, back now, honestly the thing to remember about cold weather is to be as prepared as humanly possible. This means you have a car that functions well and can survive cold weather and potentially lots of said weather (hard driving rain, tons of snow, hail, etc). For reference my daily driver is a 97 Toyota T100, almost 300k on the clock because old Toyotas refuse to die and won't give up in the cold. I have lots of cool stuff in the truck bed and cab for lots of different situations, including:

- Two sets of cables, just in case
- A jump pack with tire inflator, these are kind of hit or miss in my experience, iffy build quality means you shouldn't be attached to them too much if you don't have to be and be prepared to replace if and when necessary, my current one's a Stanley and its okay, I use it if the car I'm trying to assist is far away from the road or otherwise inconvenient to reach, its the first line of defense in case I'm concerned about how to reach said car
- Tow straps, don't get the ones with metal hooks as the fabric around them are a point of breakage, just get the ones with the fabric loops at the end and be prepared to replace them after 5-10 instances of yankin someone out of the ditch
- A good jack to help get a car up once you reach it (or if its on flat ground already with a bum tire)
- Fix a flat, mechanics hate it with good reason but it'll work in a pinch to get someone moving again
- Spare fluids, antifreeze, brake fluid, 5w30/5w20, that sort of thing. No need to get too specialized here
- Duct tape of course
- A good first aid kit, I admit my first aid skills aren't the greatest on earth but you'll be glad you have the kit if (when) someone shows up with actual first aid skills, I've had people with medical skills (former military, former first responder, etc) show up to accidents on a dark snowy highway three times now and each time they used my kit and swore it helped, soooo
- An extra coat for a cold person, and an emergency blanket because why not

Other stuff you think might be useful. I usually bring along a can of starter fluid (which is heptane and ether and other fun chemicals) for use on stubborn frozen up engines, its not good for engines necessarily but it'll work in a pinch. Also, some WD-40, some paracord, emergency flares and reflectors and some spray paint.

Actually shit this reminds me to go check and make sure I actually have all this stuff in my car, I can picture about 80% of it in there now lol
 
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Buy it for life? More like, Buy it for less.

New stuff is crap. EPA guidelines have made appliances flimsier and less effective. Do not turn down your nose at the idea of using gently used appliances and you will have a better product with a longer lifespan.

More important than the product you buy is where you buy it. Top picks:
Ollie's Bargain Outlet and BigLots for cooking utensils/towels/miscellany, Harbor Freight for tools, Lowe's for appliances (find a manager who will mark down clearance or SOS return appliances for you. I hate Home Depot, they are pozzed and hire idiots)

Other cheaper stores: Winn-Dixie, Food City, Food Lion, HomeGoods, Marshall's, Ikea (for certain products)

Overpriced: Kroger, Whole Foods and Sprouts Farmers Market (your only source for quality cheese, sadly), Publix, Kroger, Harris Teeter, Kohl's

If you are pursuing your dream of owning a farm, Southern States Co-op and Rural King may be cheaper than Tractor Supply if they are available in your area. Rural Wal-Marts may also carry farm supplies.

I have never in my life paid any attention to the brand of any product except for the following four categories:
Vehicle: Toyota trucks and Landcruisers are the favorite cars of the Taliban for a reason. Older models of any vehicle are superior because they can be worked on in your own garage. Newer cars are built to antagonize anyone but the dealer from working on them and are made with materials that will not protect you in the event of an wreck.

Lawnmower: John Deer. Husqvarnas are garbage and catch on fire.

Gun: Henry. Anything that uses .22 ammo. Cheap and effective at stopping intruders and hunting.

TV: Vizios are cheap and have everything you need.

Good luck.
 
America’s Test Kitchen
Oh wow, I vaguely remembered the name so I took a look at my Word documents, and I apparently once typed out the entirety of the recommendations to share with my mom friends until I got bored of the tedious task. I'll copy/paste here, but if anyone's interested-
Thermometres
Instant Read:
Thermoworks Thermapen MK4, $99.
Thermoworks Thermopop, $29.
Oven:
CDN Pro Accurate Oven Thermometre, $8.70.
Probe:
Thermoworks Chef Alarm, $59.
Polder Classic Digital Thermometre/Timer, $24.99.
Fridge:
Maverick Cold-Chek Digital Refrigerator/Freezer Thermometre, $19.99.
Remote:
IDevices Kitchen Thermometre, $78.00.
None of the models truly always work for the advertised distance.
Timers:
Kitchen
OXO Good Grips Triple Timer, $19.99.

Measuring Tools:
Dry Measuring Cups:
OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Measuring Cups, $19.99.
Liquid Measuring Cups:
Pyrex 2-Cup Measuring Cup, $5.99.
Measuring Spoons:
Cuisipro Stainless Steel Measuring Spoons Set, $11.95.
Digital Scale:
OXO Good Grips 11 lb. Food Scale with Full Out Display, $49.95.
Ozeri Pronto Digital Multifunction Kitchen and Food Scale, $11.79.
Lightweight and lacks a removable platform for easy cleaning.

Knives and Boards:
Chef’s Knife:
Victorinox Swiss Army Fibrox Pro 8-inch Chef’s Knife, $39.95.
Mac Knife Series Hollow Edge Chef's Knife, 8-inch, $95.
My personal favourite Japanese-style Chef’s knife from an affordable price range, not listed in the book but I cannot recommend it enough.
Mac Knife Professional 8-inch Hollow Edge Chef Knife, $175.
Same as above, except with a higher price range.
Carbon-Steel Knife:
Bob Kramer 8-inch Carbon Steel Chef’s Knife by Zwilling J.A. Henckels, $299.95.
Togiharu Virgin Carbon Steel Gyutou, 8.2’’, $98.50.
All carbon-steel knives are high-maintenance and prone to rusting when not kept dry, but they are believed to be stronger and able to retain a keener edge. Sharpen to between 10 and 15 degrees on either side of the blade.
Paring Knife:
Wüsthof Classic with PEtec, 3 and a half inch, $39.95.
Victorinox Swiss Army Fibrox Pro 3 and a quarter inch Paring Knife, $4.95.
Cutting edge angle around 15 to 17 degrees.
Serrated Knife:
Mercer Culinary Millennia 10’’ Wide Bread Knife, $22.10.
Slicing Knife:
Victorinox Swiss Army Fibrox Pro 12-inch Granton Edge Slicing/Carving Knife, $54.65.
Knife Sharpener:
Chef’sChoice Trizor XV Knife Sharpener Model #15, $149.99. (Electric)
Pronto Manual Diamond Hone Asian Knife Sharpener Model #463, $49.99. (Manual)
More and more, Western knives are being sharpened in a way that emulates the Japanese style, which is to about 15 degrees.
Chef’sChoice Diamond Sharpener for Asian Knives, Model #316, $79.99. (Electric)
Carving Board:
J.K. Adams Maple Reversible Carving Board, $69.95.
Cutting Board:
Proteak Edge Grain Teak Cutting Board, $84.99. (Wooden)
OXO Good Grips Carving and Cutting Board, $21.99. (Plastic)

Pots and Pans:
Saucepan:
All-Clad Stainless 4-qt. Saucepan with Lid and Loop, $224.95. (Large)
Calphalon Contemporary Nonstick 2 and a half quart Shallow Saucepan with Cover, $39.95. (Small)
Cuisinart MultiClad Unlimited 4-qt Saucepan, $69.99. (Large)
Stockpot:
All-Clad Stainless 12-qt Stock Pot, $389.95.
Cuisinart Chef’s Classic Stainless 12-qt Stock Pot, $69.99.
Traditional Skillet:
All-Clad 12-inch Stainless Fry Pan, $154.95.
Nonstick Skillet:
OXO Good Grips Non-Stick 12-inch Open Frypan, $39.99.
Cast-Iron Skillet:
Lodge Classic 12-inch Cast Iron Skillet, $33.31.
Le Creuset Signature 11 and three quarters inch Iron Handle Skillet, $179.95.
Mario Batali by Dansk 12’’ Open Sauté Pan, $59.95.
Grill Pan:
Staub 12-inch American Square Grill Pan and Press, $219.95.
Lodge Square Grill Pan, $18.97 WITH Lodge Ribbed Panini Press, $14.98.
Sauté Pan:
All-Clad Stainless 3-qt Tri-Ply Sauté Pan, $224.95.
Cuisinart MultiClad Pro Stainless 3 and a half Quart Sauté Pan with Helper and Cover, $78.13.
Dutch Oven:
Le Creuset 7 and a quarter qt. Round French Oven, $349.95.
All-Clad Stainless 8-qt. Stockpot, $279.95.
Lodge Colour Enamel 6-qt. Dutch Oven, $76.82.
Rimmed Baking Sheet:
Nordic Ware Bakers Half Sheet, $14.97.
Roasting Pan:
Calphalon Contemporary Stainless Roasting Pan with Rack, $99.99.
Calphalon Commercial Hard-Anodised Roasting Pan with Nonstick Rack, $59.99.

Tools and Utensils:
Kitchen Shears:
Kershaw Taskmaster Shears/Shun Multi-Purpose Shears, $49.95.
J.A. Henckels International Kitchen Shears- Take Apart, $14.95.
Tongs:
OXO Good Grips 12-in. Locking Tongs, $12.09.
Wooden Spoon:
SCI Bamboo Wood Cooking Spoon, $2.40.
Ladle:
Rösle Hook Ladle with Pouring Rim, $34.00.
OXO Good Grips Brushed Stainless Steel Ladle, $9.99.
All-Around Spatula:
Wüsthof Gourmand Turner/Fish Spatula, $44.95. (Metal)
Matfer Bourgeat Pelton Spatula, $8.23. (Plastic)
OXO Good Grips Flexible Turner- Steel, $7.99. (Metal)
Rubber/Silicone Spatula:
Rubbermaid Professional 13 and a half in. High-Heat Scraper, $18.99.
Tovolo Silicone Spatula, $8.99.
All-Purpose Whisk:
OXO Good Grips 11’’ Balloon Whisk, $9.99.
Pepper Mill:
Cole and Mason Derwent Gourmet Precision Pepper Mill, $40.00.
Can Opener:
Fissler Magic Smooth-Edge Can Opener, $29.00.
Garlic Press:
Kuhn Rikon Stainless Steel Epicurean Garlic Press, $39.95.
Manual Citrus Juicer:
Chef’n FreshForce Citrus Juicer, $23.04.
Vegetable Peeler:
Kuhn Rikon Original Swiss Peeler, $3.50.
Colander:
RSVP International Endurance Precision Pierced 5 qt. Colander, $25.99.
Salad Spinner:
OXO Good Grips Salad Spinner, $29.99.
Rasp Grater:
Microplane Classic Zester Grater, $12.35.
Grater:
Rösle Coarse Grater, $35.95.

BAKEWARE:
Glass Baking Dish:
Pyrex Bakeware 9 x 13-Inch Baking Dish, $9.09.
Metal Baking Pan:
Williams-Sonoma Goldtouch Nonstick Rectangular Cake Pan 9’’ x 13’’, $32.95.
Square Baking Pan:
Williams-Sonoma Goldtouch Nonstick Square Cake Pan, 8’’, $21.00.
Round Baking Pan:
Nordic Ware Naturals Nonstick 9-Inch Round Cake Pan, $14.32. (Best All-Around)
Chicago Metallic Non-Stick 9’’ Round Cake Pan, $10.97. (Best for Browning)
Pie Plate:
Pyrex Bakeware 9 Inch Pie Plate, $8.16.
Loaf Pan:
Williams-Sonoma Goldtouch Nonstick Loaf Pan, $21.00.
Muffin Tin:
Anolon Advanced Bakeware 12-Cup Muffin Pan, $24.99.
Bundt Pan:
Nordic Ware Platinum Collection Anniversary Bundt Pan, $26.95.
Rolling Pin:
J.K. Adams Plain Maple Rolling Dowel, $13.95.
Mixing Bowls:
Vollrath Economy Stainless Steel Mixing Bowls, from $2.90 to $6.90, from 1 and a half qt. To 5 qt. (Metal)
Pyrex Smart Essentials MIxing Bowl Set with Coloured Lids, $27.98 for a 4-pack. (Glass)
Oven Mitt:
Kool-Tek 15-inch Oven Mitt by Katchall, $44.95.
Cooling Rack:
CIA Bakeware 12-Inch x 17-Inch Cooling Rack, $15.95.

Appliances:
Food Processor:
Cuisinart Custom 14-Cup Food Processor, $199.99.
Stand Mixer:
KitchenAid Pro Line Series 7-Qt. Bowl Lift Stand Mixer, $549.95.
KitchenAid Classic Plus Series 4.5-Qt. Tilt-Head Stand Mixer, $199.99.
Handheld Mixer:
KitchenAid S-Speed Ultra Power Hand Mixer, $69.99.
Cuisinart PowerSelect 3-Speed Hand Mixer, $26.77.
Blender:
Vitamix 5200, $449.00.
Breville The Hemisphere Control, $199.99.
Grilling Equipment:
Charcoal Grill:
Weber Performer Deluxe Charcoal Grill, $399.00.
Weber Original Kettle Premium Charcoal Grill, 22-inch, $149.00.
Gas Grill:
Weber Spirit E-310 Gas Grill, $499.00.
Chimney Starter for Charcoal Fires:
Weber Rapidfire Chimney Starter, $14.99.
Grill Tongs:
OXO Good Grips 16-Inch Locking Tongs, $14.99.
Grill Brush:
Grill Wizard 18-Inch China Grill Brush, $31.50.
Grill Spatula:
Weber Original Stainless Steel Spatula, $14.99.
Smoker:
Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker Smoker, 18’’, $298.95.
Basting Brush:
Elizabeth Karmel’s Super Silicone Angled Barbecue Brush, $9.16.

Kitchen Staples:
Fire Extinguisher:
Kidde Kitchen Fire Extinguisher, $18.97.
Liquid Dish Soap:
Mrs. Meyer’s Clean Day Liquid Dish Soap, Lavender, $3.99.
All-Purpose Spray Cleaner:
Method All-Purpose Natural Surface Cleaner, French Lavender, $3.79.
Food Storage Bags:
Ziploc Brand Double Zipper Gallon Freezer Bags with the Smart Zip Seal, $3.99 for 30 bags.
Plastic Wrap:
Glad ClingWrap Clear Plastic, $1.20 per 100 sq.ft.
Heavy-Duty Handled Scrub Brush:
Caldrea Dishwashing Brush, $5.00.
Laundry Stain Remover:
OxiClean Versatile Stain Remover, $8.59 for 3 lbs.
Kitchen Twine:
Librett Cotton Butcher’s Twine, $8.29 for 370 ft.
Digital Scale:
OXO Good Grips 11 lb. Food Scale with Full Out Display, $49.95.
I'm kind of embarrassed but I guess this is the thread where the autism is helpful.
 
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Sewing - get a vintage machine from the 70s or earlier. Newer machines have more and more plastic in them. Newer machines come with more bells and whistles but you're probably not going to use them (or they're just kinda dumb- auto backstitch? Seriously?) and the extra complexity (and inclusion of electronics) means they're difficult if not impossible to repair. Most parts like bobbins, feet and needles have been standardized across most domestic machine brands since the early 20th century. Some like Bernina use proprietary parts though just as a heads up.

For other sewing stuff: get yourself some Gingher scissors, they are very high quality and the brand offers free mail-in sharpening on their products. I have both big cutting shears and small scissors for trimming threads, snipping corners and such. Aurifil makes great cotton quilting thread and i would rec it as a basic all purpose thread too.

Doc Martens have sucked for ages.
Solovair is a former DM manufacturer that's still in business making nearly identical boots in the UK. I have a pair of chelsea boots from them and a pair of dress shoes and both are quite comfortable. Most of their prices hover around 200-300 USD, so more expensive than DM but the leather and workmanship is much nicer.
 
Null asked about buy it for life stuff and specifically mentioned guns and holsters.

Without getting too much into it, I'm a gunsmith and experienced competitive shooter, here are my recommendations:

For concealed carry holsters, I've tested out holsters from literally dozens of manufacturers, and the only company I use now is Hidden Hybrid Holsters. They're handmade in Ohio and the leather is locally sourced from the Amish. They're extremely comfortable without sacrificing utility.

For concealed carry handguns, I only recommend carrying 9mm. When the FBI was approaching the wear out date for their .40 S&W service pistols, they did an exhaustive study on the three primary US service pistol calibers (9x19mm, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP), and what they found is that, using modern ammunition, there is virtually no difference whatsoever in either lethality or one-shot-stops. What that means is you might as well carry whatever has the most capacity and least recoil, meaning 9mm. For the actual gun, I recommend most people carry the Glock 43X and buy flush fit Shield Arms S15 magazines, which are the same size as the standard Glock magazines but hold 15 rounds instead of the standard 10. If you go this route, you will need to swap out the magazine catch/release with a steel or aluminum one, which is a very simple task you can do at home after watching a YouTube video. If you get the Glock 43X, you will also need to get an aftermarket trigger connector, because the stock trigger pull feels like dog shit. Swapping this part requires no tools and can also be done at home easily after watching a YouTube video.

If you don't want to go with the Glock 43X, which I get, I'm personally not a Glock fan myself, I recommend something in the CZ-75 family, which have the best ergonomics of any handgun out there. For competition I use the CZ Shadow II, which is a derivative of the CZ-75. For concealed everyday carry I carry a CZ-P01, which is fantastic. The CZ-75 Compact is just as good, the only real difference between the two is that the P01 has an accessory rail for a light.

For self defense ammunition, I carry Federal HST 9mm 124gr. There's been extensive ballistic gel testing of every self defense load under the sun, and Federal HST is always a consistent top tier performer. If you would like a softer impulse or less snappy recoil, you can go with the Federal HST 9mm 147gr.

Links for the stuff I talked about:

Shield Arms mag/mag release pack

G43X aftermarket trigger connector

Copy-paste of FBI 9mm press release

Holsters
 
I'm kind of a sperg for buying things that aren't made in China, so here are some of my recs:

Food processors: If you aren't willing to spend the money for an industrial food processor from the likes of Hobart, but want something that isn't made of the finest Chinesium like basically every cheap food processor on the market today, then I would recommend the Robot Coupe R 101 P. It's made in France, and it's designed for professional kitchens, but you can usually find it for around $900. Might seem steep when a comparable Chinese-made Cuisinart is around $150, but if you chop a lot of vegetables or cheese the Robot Coupe will hold up a hell of a lot better, and it's designed to be user-serviceable as well.

Keyboards: If you can't find an IBM M mechanical keyboard, then the nearest modern comparison would be the Filco Majestouch. They're expensive at around $150-$200, but they're designed in Japan and made in Taiwan to Japanese specs. I bought mine about a decade ago, and despite it suffering innumerable impacts from my massive sausage fingers pounding out spergy novels, it still feels practically new.

Guns: If it's German, Austrian or Czech, then it's golden. Honestly, the market is so competitive these days that most guns that aren't bottom of the barrel ghetto specials like Taurus or weird brands that appeared yesterday out of the ether are generally pretty reliable. Rule of thumb: a polymer-framed, striker fired pistol from a well-known and reputable brand like CZ, Smith & Wesson, Beretta, Heckler & Koch, or Glock will reliably fire thousands of rounds with minimal maintenance.

Watches: Citizen watches. Made in Japan, tough as an anvil. Mine is 15 years old and has seen A LOT of abuse, yet it ticks along with no complaints. I paid like $100 for it new (though that was pre-Biden).
 
Watches: Citizen watches. Made in Japan, tough as an anvil. Mine is 15 years old and has seen A LOT of abuse, yet it ticks along with no complaints. I paid like $100 for it new (though that was pre-Biden).
Want to 2nd this I have my grandfathers old Citizen watch from 1950s or so and its got the life of a nokia phone.
 
Everything changes, moves abroad, gets bought out, or bottoms out on material/manufacturing costs so frequently now that I really only have two retarded recommendations that I can personally vouch for since I used their "no questions asked" return policies recently:

Darn Tough for wool socks, as mentioned.

Lupine Pet for dog collars/leashes/harnesses.
 
My general rule of thumb is to buy Made in Japan products whenever possible. The Japanese care a lot more quality control and longevity than anyone else.

Vehicles: I highly recommend the Nissan Armada (aka Nissan Patrol everywhere that's not NA). Manufactured in Japan with 95% Japanese manufactured parts, an excellent V8, and all around great competitor to the Landcruiser without paying Landcruiser prices.

Boots/Shoes: Danner's Made in America stuff. Yes, they are expensive, but they are extremely durable and comfortable. I bought my Acadia boots in 2015, maintain them regularly, and have only needed to recraft them twice.

Kitchen: RADA for US made kitchen utensils, anything off Global Kitchen Japan if you're up for spending more, and Allegheny Treeware for wooden utensils.

Nail Trimmer: I know it's weird paying $20 for a nail trimmer, but my Seki Edge still does a great job after 10+ years of use and it was totally worth it.
 
In terms of 3d printers any machine from the ender 3 family of printers is essentially BiFL. You'll probably need to replace parts eventually (you will for any printer) but there are many, many, ender 3 compatible parts out there for all types. Take care of it and itll last a long time.
Prusa printers aren't bad either, they are probably actually better in many respects, but tend to be much more expensive.
BambuLab printers are peak Chinese botnet chinkware but they are extremely good at printing. There's no guarantee the company wont just rugpull and make new parts impossible/expensive to get though.
For the most part though, the lifetime of your machine will depend on how well you maintain it.

There is a company that makes Diamond nozzles called diamondback. They are extremely expensive but if you are printing in abrasive material multiple times a day you might consider one, hardened steel can only go so far.
In my experience, polymaker makes some of the best filament. I use their carbon fiber nylon alot. Your mileage may vary though, and since it's raw material it's not exactly BiFL.
 
Victorinox Swiss army knives and multitools. I have a couple that are about 10 years old, still going strong with no issues and they're used pretty frequently. My dad has ones that are older than me (I'm a middle millennial) and still work well with no issues, they're used even more heavily because he brings them to work.
 
The 302 is a very popular engine
I work at a steel mill so I get to hear a lot of things car related; and I don't know how true this is, but I heard here at my job that the Ford 302 engine that was sold and manufactured in Mexico has impurities in the cast mix on top that they are thicker in some areas, making them more resilient in the long run than the American ones
 
Wait what?

I can never trust used shit.

New furniture is almost all shit up until a certain price point, and at that point you are overspending.

Look for estate warehouses run by churches, they take furniture donations and resell for pennies on the dollar. Most of the furniture in my home is from one of these warehouses, its all antique, made of real wood and I paid no more than 30 bucks a pop. Stuff like end tables, coffee tables, chairs etc is usually better to buy older, you can always refinish those pieces if they look a bit worn. If its worn, its been used and survived.

I will back up what others have said about la z boy. I have a couch by them and its both super comfy (I have taken lots of naps in it), and has taken a beating over the last 5 years. My father has one that has lasted 20 years (It does have a huge crevice where he sits though)
 
Heres an American made product that has a good proven warranty.
https://darntough.com/
Socks arent exciting but its one of the few things I can recommend from a buy it for life standpoint that I have personally used.
I can second the Darn Tough socks. I work in construction so I'm on my feet all fuckin day 5+ days a week and I've had these socks for over 4 years and none of them have even started to noticeably wear out. They are expensive as fuck but I have bought one pair for each day of the week and I wash them between each use and they are stilling holding up as good as new. It's nuts how durable these socks are.
 
New furniture is almost all shit up until a certain price point, and at that point you are overspending.
Depending on where you are in the world it might be better to take a few hours to learn what is good, what is junk and what is fixable rather than hoping for the right solid wood piece to come onto the 2nd hand market at the right price.

Right now there's actually a lot of good cheap stuff on the market because industrial looks are in vogue so lots of steel box section being used structurally instead of the particle board shit that'll fall to pieces if you look at it funny. Again you still need to look at it critically.

Tax
-Microwaves, anything with a stainless steel interior, painted or enamelled interiors don't last anymore.
-Microwave function only, adding a grill/oven/toaster is unnecessary complexity and additional points of failure
 
Regardless of what you buy, make sure that you learn how to care for and maintain it. Even products designed with reliability in mind or build with the highest quality materials and craftsmanship will become useless if mistreated or neglected. Even mid-range or substandard products will last for a long time when properly serviced and looked after.

There's also a fair bit of satisfaction to be gained from those maintenance activities and the understanding that you have something reliable, that your life will not be burdened by a need to constantly seek out replacements for the things which have failed you. When you've had something that you've cared for and owned for decades it feels delightful to use, even if it's for some simple task.
 
For concealed carry handguns, I only recommend carrying 9mm.
9mm rofl.jpg
The boomers are right. You should be carrying fuddy-five if you don't want the guy who robbed you to be alive to sue for damages.
 
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