'No Stupid Questions' (NSQ) Internet & Technology Edition

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Ok, this is probably an actually stupid question but…

My 14900ks runs warm. Like really warm, warm enough to just dunk its clock speed drastically. In order to lower the power consumption, and hopefully heat, I turned off the E cores. My temps dropped by 30C under load and game performance increased as the clock speed stays at 6+ ghz consistently instead of dipping under 4.8

Would I benefit at all from turning some of them back on? Not all of them obviously, but maybe a few for non-gaming background tasks. This is 99% a gaming pc with only the occasional bit of productivity stuff, I’ve got a 13900k build for that.

So from a purely gaming point of view should I turn any of them back on?
 
You want a shit-tier laptop and a high-capacity USB stick.
My only concern would be the short lifetime of the flash memory inside the USB, call me old fashioned but DVDs are pretty long lasting if you take care of them.
 
My only concern would be the short lifetime of the flash memory inside the USB, call me old fashioned but DVDs are pretty long lasting if you take care of them.
Physical media ftw. Flash drives are nice for transporting archived data but I wouldn’t trust any of them for anything serious. A burned DVD stored properly will last for decades upon decades. I’ve seen flash drives bricked by static, not a fear with a dvd or quad layer BR120.
 
My only concern would be the short lifetime of the flash memory inside the USB, call me old fashioned but DVDs are pretty long lasting if you take care of them.
That's why you keep copies of your data in multiple places. The USB is mainly a method to get the media into whatever media player you want, with a properly backed up master copy stored elsewhere.
 
Does anyone know how to stop Windows from automatically assigning DNS servers to 127.0.0.1 and ::1
 
I've been shopping for some wireless headphones, and I suddenly had a thought. So, the reason that I've been looking for 2.4GHz headphones is because my on-board bluetooth is only 4.2. I know that on-board is better than dongle bluetooth, but is that still the case when the mobo is 4.2 and the dongle is 5.3?
 
Ok, this is probably an actually stupid question but…

My 14900ks runs warm. Like really warm, warm enough to just dunk its clock speed drastically. In order to lower the power consumption, and hopefully heat, I turned off the E cores. My temps dropped by 30C under load and game performance increased as the clock speed stays at 6+ ghz consistently instead of dipping under 4.8

Would I benefit at all from turning some of them back on? Not all of them obviously, but maybe a few for non-gaming background tasks. This is 99% a gaming pc with only the occasional bit of productivity stuff, I’ve got a 13900k build for that.

So from a purely gaming point of view should I turn any of them back on?
I've heard Windows has a hard time properly working with efficiency cores sometimes, and it could be assigning game threads to the E cores. Have you tried setting core affinity for the game so it won't use the E cores?

Otherwise it could be Windows being retarded and trying to do some background processing task on the E cores while you game.

Another option is your cooling isn't quite keeping up with the new hotness, or perhaps your thermal paste has a spot that didn't spread out enough. The newer Inte chips just keep getting hotter and hotter so good thermal dispersion is assumed by their engineers.
 
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I've been shopping for some wireless headphones, and I suddenly had a thought. So, the reason that I've been looking for 2.4GHz headphones is because my on-board bluetooth is only 4.2. I know that on-board is better than dongle bluetooth, but is that still the case when the mobo is 4.2 and the dongle is 5.3?
I'd imagine latency and throughput would be the concern since some dongles are really cheap, but if it meets 5.3 it likely has better signal processing and better throughput in general, so latency likely wouldn't be an issue. I'd give it a try and see if you run into any roadbumps :)
 
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I've heard Windows has a hard time properly working with efficiency cores sometimes, and it could be assigning game threads to the E cores. Have you tried setting core affinity for the game so it won't use the E cores?
I will try that next.
Otherwise it could be Windows being retarded and trying to do some background processing task on the E cores while you game.
Yeah, I’m thinking so. My CPU usage was showing 100% on all the E cores, and my P core usage is the same with them on or off. They aren’t giving me any extra in game performance.

Another option is your cooling isn't quite keeping up with the new hotness, or perhaps your thermal paste has a spot that didn't spread out enough. The newer Inte chips just keep getting hotter and hotter so good thermal dispersion is assumed by their engineers.
I’ll pull her and repaste but I’ve got a direct contact frame on there and I spent a good amount of time getting the paste even. A 360mm AIO in a 65 degree room should be able to keep up. I’ll def give her a thorough once over. It’s an all new build so if worse comes to worse I can swap coolers for free.

Ty for your useful response!
 
I've been shopping for some wireless headphones, and I suddenly had a thought. So, the reason that I've been looking for 2.4GHz headphones is because my on-board bluetooth is only 4.2. I know that on-board is better than dongle bluetooth, but is that still the case when the mobo is 4.2 and the dongle is 5.3?
Many(most?) of the on-board cards use USB anyway. So it comes down to how good the dongle is.
Here's the "on-board" bluetooth on my laptop:
USB Bus 001 Device 003: ID 8087:0029 Intel Corp. AX200 Bluetooth
And, for that matter you may be able to upgrade the motherboard one anyway, many vendors use a card because different countries may require different wifi/bt modules.
 
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What am5 motherboard has great VRM? I'm looking for other options because the B650E Taichi Lite is out of reach for me so I need other solid alternatives.
 
So I'm rocking a GT 740 I've had since 2016 in my current desktop PC. It works fine and I don't play a lot of new games anyway, but I figured it was time for an upgrade. So my dumb ass buys an RX 550 knock off on Ali Express. Still not exactly cutting edge, but a little newer and enough to give me a decent bump in terms of specs for only $50.

Anyway, it comes in. Looks new in the box. All good. I put it in my PC, boot it up and nothing comes up on the monitor. I put the old card back in, Windows boots fine, picture on screen. I put the new card in again, this time Windows boots, I get a picture and Windows update installs drivers. All appears well. I restart and run the Heaven Benchmark to make sure this actually outperforms my old card (It is chink shit after all). I am actually getting a better framerate than I was with the GT 740. Then about 15 seconds in, the screen goes grey. Not black. Grey. I cannot get the RX 550 to work again after that.

The GT 740 still works fine in the same slot, so the RX 550 did not fry the slot or anything on the mobo.

The GT 740 draws more power than the RX 550 is supposed to, I have a 1,000 watt PSU, plus I tried disconnecting the DVD burner and a few mechanical HDDs while trying to get it to work, so I doubt it's a power issue.

Anything I can do here, or have I just fallen victim to shitty chink shit that breaks as soon as you take it out of the box?
 
So I'm rocking a GT 740 I've had since 2016 in my current desktop PC. It works fine and I don't play a lot of new games anyway, but I figured it was time for an upgrade. So my dumb ass buys an RX 550 knock off on Ali Express. Still not exactly cutting edge, but a little newer and enough to give me a decent bump in terms of specs for only $50.

Anyway, it comes in. Looks new in the box. All good. I put it in my PC, boot it up and nothing comes up on the monitor. I put the old card back in, Windows boots fine, picture on screen. I put the new card in again, this time Windows boots, I get a picture and Windows update installs drivers. All appears well. I restart and run the Heaven Benchmark to make sure this actually outperforms my old card (It is chink shit after all). I am actually getting a better framerate than I was with the GT 740. Then about 15 seconds in, the screen goes grey. Not black. Grey. I cannot get the RX 550 to work again after that.

The GT 740 still works fine in the same slot, so the RX 550 did not fry the slot or anything on the mobo.

The GT 740 draws more power than the RX 550 is supposed to, I have a 1,000 watt PSU, plus I tried disconnecting the DVD burner and a few mechanical HDDs while trying to get it to work, so I doubt it's a power issue.

Anything I can do here, or have I just fallen victim to shitty chink shit that breaks as soon as you take it out of the box?
you bought chinesium. i'd call you a retard for this, but have some genuine advice: dont buy your pc parts from chinese websites.
 
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