Body Armor Thread

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Stackbodiesbro

kiwifarms.net
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Aug 19, 2020
Body Armor is something that is becoming increasingly more common for civilian ownership and the thread below should help you figure out what you need to buy to keep up.

Armor Ratings:
The National Institute of Justice (NIJ) has standardized 5 levels of ballistic body armor:
- Level IIA- 9mm & 40 S&W
- Level II- 9mm & 357 Magnum
- Level IIIA- 44 Magnum
- Level III- 7.62×51mm NATO Lead core FMJ
- Level IV- 30-06 Black Tip (Armor Piecing)

Although most people think these levels are sequential and able to stop ballistic threats "weaker" than the caliber is rated to stop, that is not always the case. It has been recorded several times that some NIJ certified Level III plates can be penetrated by 5.56 FMJ (M193) If you have a caliber you are specifically wanting to stop it is best to make sure the plates you are purchasing are rated to stop that specific threat. Companies will often designate these additional ratings with a "+" like IIIA+, III+, etc. There is no official "+" designation so make sure to check that your specific ratings are met.

The NIJ has a registry of all of its certified armor here. Be wary of armor companies claiming their armor meets NIJ standards or that they only have 1 model of their armor actually registered. For example, a company may have multiple plates, however only one of those models will be actually be registered while the others will be independently tested not by NIJ.

NIJ ratings..jpg


Armor Materials:
There are several materials that are currently used with body armor and each type of material has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Kevlar:
Kevlar is a type of aramid fiber. It is woven into textile materials and is extremely strong and lightweight, with resistance toward corrosion and heat. Kevlar is often used in the manufacture of pistol rated armor because of its flexible nature and relative light weight. It can also be formed into the shape of a helmet and the majority of ballistic rated helmets use Kevlar. Kevlar's biggest weakness is the inability to stop extremely high velocity projectiles as well as solid core projectiles.

Steel:
Steel armor is one of the cheapest and easiest armors to mass produce and therefore it is one of the cheapest III rated types of armor on the market. However steel has many problems that prevent it from seeing prominent professional and duty uses. The most prevalent discussed problem is something called Spalling. Spalling is when a projectile hits a hard surface and fragments into a 360 degree area across the surface of the impact. The problem is that your extremities including your arms, legs, groin, and neck could be in the path of the fragmentation. Steel armor plates can be manufactured with a coating material on the plate similar to truck bed liner to act as a "net" to catch the fragmentation to varying levels of success. Another issue similar to spalling is ricochets, where the projectile bounces off the plate completely or partially intact potentially hitting one of the aforementioned extremities or even someone else in your vicinity. The final issue is traumatic kinetic energy transfer to the body. Most other body armors catch the projectile like a net where steel stops the projectile immediately. The kinetic is transferred through the plate into the body and could cause significant injury or even death. Some steel plate manufacturers sell "trauma plates" to sit behind the steel plate to absorb the energy. Steel is also a relatively heavy material and, due to the nature of its protective characteristics and faults, the added anti-spall coating and trauma pad make it all the more heavy.

Ceramic:
Ceramic body armor is the most prevalent rifle rated armor on the market and is the common choice for many first world nation's military and LE. Ceramic body armor is often able to stop many high velocity and solid core projectiles. However, most of the downsides to ceramic body armor is its relatively fragile nature compared to other armors. While it is not likely going to be compromised by a 3 foot drop, a significant drop or impact could theoretically compromise the armor. Ceramic is also unable to take as many consecutive impacts in comparison to other body armor materials.

Polyethylene (UHMWPE)
Polyethylene or Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) is a tough and durable thermoplastic material with extremely long chains of polyethylene, resulting in high impact strength, low moisture absorption, and excellent resistance to chemicals and abrasion. UHMWPE is a relative new-comer to the body armor scene and is constantly being improved upon. It offers extremely high ballistic protection for its weight, often boasting level III ratings at often half the weight of the next lightest material. UHMWPE can also buoyant and used for maritime operations as it can also double as a life preserver in water. However, UHMWPE is not without its own flaws. UHMWPE can often struggle stopping solid or steel core projectiles. Some manufacturers mix Kevlar into the plate to combat this flaw. UHMWPE is also very temperature sensitive and can be compromised if the armor is exposed to temperatures of over 160°F (71.11°C) for more than 2 hours. This makes it not an ideal option for LE that might leave the armor in a hot car for extended amounts of time or any similar application.

Cost
A good rule of thumb is this: while armor is becoming more and more affordable, you can only pick two of these three options: cheap, effective, and lightweight. Armor that is cheap and effective will not be lightweight, and armor that is effective and lightweight will not be cheap. Cheap and lightweight armor is a big gamble, as it will not always be effective. Choose wisely.

If you have anything to add, please feel free to PM me so that I can add it to the OP.
 
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Also, remember that an old-school flak jacket like you'd find in a milsurp store is meant to protect against shrapnel and debris, not bullets.

Remember this dipshit?
View attachment 6149355
I have 2 PASGT flak jackets I got for 80 dollars each a couple years ago I think they are cool if I ever needed to bug out that's what I got so that's what I'd wear they are about the same as level 2 I think
 
Ceramic also has a limited shelf life, of about 5 years.
How do plates have a shelf life? Really bizarre.
Looks like I spoke too soon, as I've seen an expiration date on my own plates and thought it should be mentioned.

However, I never actually asked why they had that. According to Faggit, that's actually the manufacturer's warranty period, and they should be G2G if you're keeping them properly stored. They don't wanna be held liable if old armor fails.
 
Don't forget about SAPI versus shooter plates. I prefer shooter but the better coverage of SAPI is worth considering.
 
Looks like I spoke too soon, as I've seen an expiration date on my own plates and thought it should be mentioned.

However, I never actually asked why they had that. According to Faggit, that's actually the manufacturer's warranty period, and they should be G2G if you're keeping them properly stored. They don't wanna be held liable if old armor fails.
As far as I know soft kevlar has a more limited shelf life (still like 20-25 years if not seeing daily use, with daily use could be as low as 5-10 years before fibers start breaking down from heat and flexing), ceramics and uhmwpe not so much. Both should not be exposed to significant temperature changes and humidity, not a good idea to store your kit in an unheated garage.
 
Just say no to AR500.
you don't like wearing 15lbs per plate (no rhino liner)? That plastic shit is pretty cool, i've seen some war trophy plates where they have a couple of "self-healed" 7.62 rounds in them from afghanistan. Sadly, any trust worthy plate is going to come from a manufacturer that wants a LEO/MIL license. i've seen rangetards with plates from other manufactures but i've never seen those tested in war.
As far as I know soft kevlar has a more limited shelf life (still like 20-25 years if not seeing daily use, with daily use could be as low as 5-10 years before fibers start breaking down from heat and flexing), ceramics and uhmwpe not so much. Both should not be exposed to significant temperature changes and humidity, not a good idea to store your kit in an unheated garage.
kevlar has 5 years TOPs in excellent storage conditions. with humidity, sunlight, storing them vertically, probably 3, maybe 4 years.
Duct tape and phone books. If you’re ever in prison this is the way to avoid being stabbed.
they also make stab proof plates; kevlar is garbage for knife attacks.
 
I've seen body armor on wish and temu. Does that shit even protect? Not that I'm gonna buy it in the first place. I'd really would question someone if they did so. Its cheap, but you'll probably die in a real fire fight.

edit: nvm. Matt from Demolition Ranch did a video on this in 2019.
 
kevlar has 5 years TOPs in excellent storage conditions. with humidity, sunlight, storing them vertically, probably 3, maybe 4 years.
Didn't they have some NIJ tests that determined that 10-year-old kevlar showed no significant deterioration? If the manufacturer warranties it for 5 years it's definitely not going to go to shit within 3-4 years, assuming it's not physically damaged and taking in moisture. That's a major liability issue right there if the armor doesn't last for its stated warranty period.

I've seen body armor on wish and temu. Does that shit even protect? Not that I'm gonna buy it in the first place. I'd really would question someone if they did so. Its cheap, but you'll probably die in a real fire fight.
In short, not worth it. Some of it may be functional, some may be full of cardboard inside. You don't want to find out the hard way.
 
Ceramic also has a limited shelf life, of about 5 years.
They don't technically have a shelf life. Companies ofter warranties on their plates up to a pre specified date. If the plate sat on a self unused for 5 years it is still going to perform, it's just no longer insured by the manufacturer.
 
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Didn't they have some NIJ tests that determined that 10-year-old kevlar showed no significant deterioration? If the manufacturer warranties it for 5 years it's definitely not going to go to shit within 3-4 years, even with hard use. That's a major liability issue right there if the armor doesn't last for its stated warranty period.
I doubt manufacturers cover wear and tear like sweating through your carrier for months on end. My kevlar was pretty stiff when i bought it and was rather flexible after 2 years of wearing them. Maybe its still good, but should i take the chance?
 
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I doubt manufacturers cover wear and tear like sweating through your carrier for months on end. My kevlar was pretty stiff when i bought it and was rather flexible after 2 years of wearing them. Maybe its still good, but should i take the chance?
Kevlar is always stiff until it forms to the body, it can take just a couple of months of daily wear. As far as I understand that initial break-in should be accounted for by the manufacturer.

From what I know NIJ tests include a "conditioning" step for soft armor to try to simulate some wear: https://www.ojp.gov/pdffiles1/nij/223054.pdf
This protocol is designed to subject test armors to conditions that are intended to provide some indication of the armor’s ability to maintain ballistic performance after being exposed to conditions of heat, moisture, and mechanical wear. This protocol will not predict the service life of the vest nor does it simulate an exact period of time in the field.
 
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