TASKFORCE ∅ - This is my swamp

[HarblMcDavid]

No point talking guns, that's almost a whole other topic.

Ideally:

Reasonably thick perimeter bramble patch just back of what I'd call the "defensible area" which may not be the whole property. We're talking at least 6, ideally 10-12 feet wide, and at least 6 or more feet tall. Can confirm thick blackberries or like invasive hell-plants will keep all but the most persistent out, just make sure you have a brush-hog or similar to keep them under control, because they are voracious growers.

Behind the perimeter patch, a moat deep enough to drown the average vehicle, and wide enough that a speeding vehicle should plow straight into the bank on the far side without the ability to back out, rather than barely make it assuming someone tried to ram the brambles.

Behind the moat, a chain-link fence set back somewhat so that you can potentially plant edible things in there that geese won't eat, and to have enough room so you can put some of those fuckers in there:

https://kiwifarms.st/threads/even-hardened-convicts-are-no-match-for-these-guard-geese.192859/

This will involve animal husbandry (I assume to keep them around they'll need their wing feathers to be clipped at minimum) but if geese are good enough for the very specific guard scenario in Brazil, they might work here too in that they're going to eat bugs and stuff, eat cheap shit like rice to supplement, use the moat as a swimming hole, and honk at + attack anything that comes anywhere near them. Sure, they're not going to get a good chomp in on someone like a dog, but as a cheap waddling perimeter alarm you might occasionally pluck for a meal or few if you let them reproduce, could be worse.

Behind the chain link fence (not next to it, obviously) a reasonably tall earthen berm, steep facing out, less so facing towards the house, ideally with some fortifications on the house-side of it so it can be used for cover and supported fire reasonably easily. Consider some form of lower growing brambles on the non-house facing side, or just keep higher growing brambles well controlled so that you have a deterrent on the side that matters but it doesn't obscure sight-lines. Again, that Brush hog will probably be needed so keep in mind a distance you can fit a tractor down for such maintenance.

Behind the berm consider a few more layers of tall chain link fence, ideally with razor wire or similar along the top, though with gates you can easily lock but also allows you access to your berm, that aren't easier to force than simply cutting through the fence when locked. Electrification as an option if possible for some layers, maybe a second layer so if they make it through the first they get a zappy surprise if they try to snip-through the second.

The house:
Reinforce the walls around your windows and doors to be basically bulletproof if you can, ideally the entire outside walls, but that might get expensive and may be structurally complex, and may not be super well insulated, so perhaps a normal looking reinforced outside wall with a properly made insulated wall behind it? Dunno, just spit-balling. Bulletproof windows. Definitely reinforce specific corners within your dwelling in a way you recognize or memorize, so you can have good cover without an intruder that makes it through knowing what is and is not cover. Ideally your dwelling should not be too simply laid out, or can be with the press of a button made complicated to navigate (hard to force doors that close on a command in specific areas for example, bonus points if you have multiple "maze" configurations that can be selected independently to confuse the ever loving fuck out of someone trying to find you within and potentially allow you to escape while trapping them if you want to be extra fancy).

Obviously security cameras, night vision capable (however you want to do that, be it infrared or whatever) anywhere you can discreetly put them.

 

[AncientPhosphur]

Aim for the pelvis/hip area if you suspect they have a vest.

Tbh this is always good advice, especially at distance depending on your zero with 5.56. Holding at belt line will always ensure a hit for everything under 300 yards.

 

[Boney]

Tbh this is always good advice, especially at distance depending on your zero with 5.56. Holding at belt line will always ensure a hit for everything under 300 yards.

For a trained shooter, you always aim for the head or estimated position of the heart. Other parts of the body are more or less opportunistic. Pelvis is a decent target for a guy in body armor squared up to you, but more and more data is coming in and training is updating to headshots for armored targets.

For further targets center of mass or head.

 

[AncientPhosphur]

For a trained shooter, you always aim for the head or estimated position of the heart. Other parts of the body are more or less opportunistic. Pelvis is a decent target for a guy in body armor squared up to you, but more and more data is coming in and training is updating to headshots for armored targets.

For further targets center of mass or head.

This is a strong disagree. Rifles at different zeros perform vastly different across distances. A 25 yard zero does differently than a 50 or 100 yard zero more so at range and more so up close just due to how the zero and the rifle are due to ballistics.



There’s also stuff like 5.56 vs .223 but that’s a longer story based on round velocity and bullet grain. But to break it all down if you zero at 50 and shoot a target 30 yards away it’ll be vastly different than if you zeroed at 25 and shot the same target at 30 yards for point of impact.

 

[Boney]

This is a strong disagree. Rifles at different zeros perform vastly different across distances. A 25 yard zero does differently than a 50 or 100 yard zero more so at range and more so up close just due to how the zero and the rifle are due to ballistics.

View attachment 6183843

There’s also stuff like 5.56 vs .223 but that’s a longer story based on round velocity and bullet grain. But to break it all down if you zero at 50 and shoot a target 30 yards away it’ll be vastly different than if you zeroed at 25 and shot the same target at 30 yards for point of impact.

Learning, knowing, and remembering your holds is a CRITICAL step in the learning process. A 50yd hold will put the red dot on the forehead to land a shot between the eyes. At 7yds, you are likely putting the dot about 4 or 5 inches above your intended point of impact. Inversely form inside your zero distance, the same is true past it. With the same zero at 75yds, you are now placing your reticle at the tip of the nose to hit between the eyes. This hold/zero/point of impact relationship carries on until the half way point to your "return to zero" distance. For a 50yd zero with .223/5.56 that return to zero point will be about 200yds (depending on barrel length). Which means to "aim small, miss small" before, after, and in between those two points you need to know where to put your reticle on that vertical axis to properly aim.

The difference between 5.56 and .223 is negligible from any sort of ballistics standpoint. The grain count of the round is substantially more important. Yes the dimensions of the cartridges are slight different. Yes 5.56 tends to run a little hotter. There is nothing there your brain needs to compute for shooting though,

 

[Candida Auris]

Plant thorny bushes in front of windows and you can use plants to create natural barriers which help to funnel people.

 

[El President Camacho]

Fortifications was of course recommended. Fuck doing all that with manual labor.

Work smarter not harder. Get a Bobcat and the necessary attachments. You can build walls or dig trenches with the bucket attachment. Use the Fork attachment to move heavy materials around and felled trees. Auger attachment to make wells or deep holes.(Not spider holes just a "failed well hole" you were too lazy to cover back up). There's a Soil Conditioner & Tiller for cultivating crops or grinding up other soft tissue things.

Once you're done using it to set up your Swamp Fortress with the recommend choke point's. Armor it up FreedomDozer style with Infrared Cameras ect. Also get or make a jury-rig vehicle fire suppression system. If legal put that turret that (Old English Roast Beef) posted on it .

You now have a Bobcat of peace you could egress you house into when they set off your alarm system and take the Castle Doctrine right to them. For bonus psychological effect add a PA/Speaker system so you can talk shit and dead name them while lighting them up with your turret. Or blast The Police's song "Everything she does is magic" for Lolz. Name is a w.i.p and something the rest of team can name as this was an amalgamation of everyone's ideas.

Cab needs more armor but that's the best the a.i. will render and I'm lazy today.

 

[God's drunkest driver]

RE: 50BMG. You can buy a magazine fed bolt action .338LM rifle and ammo to feed it for the price of a single shot 50BMG rifle. Armor that can defeat a .338LM is prohibitively heavy or prohibitively expensive. Will some level 4 armor stop it? Yes, but the plate deformation will be well in excess of what is considered acceptable. Training > gear and you'd be giving up a lot of potential practice and training by buying an unwieldy and extremely expensive magazine fed 50BMG rifle, which you may have to go out of your way just to practice with if your local ranges don't allow it (common). Single shot is borderline useless for a defensive scenario, if you're preparing to that level you're sacrificing too much actual firepower and opportunity with a slow single shot reloading process.

 

[Neodanthril]

something that has gone largely overlooked or is overly explained is that you will need additional fortifying walls to obscure the view of your everyday behaviors from snipers, as well as limiting access points, people usually point this down to a single point of access which i think is mistaken.
1. the fortifications:
in a blue sky scenario, a star fort would be the ideal defense against trannies armed with handguns. the shape is significant because it prevents an attacker from hiding around a corner in a traditional rectangle shape.

View attachment aerial-view-of-a-star-shaped-Napoleonic-fort-beside-the-River-Thames-in-Essex-built-in-the-re...webp

that is obviously too expensive for what you are wanting to do so instead let us take the important feature, an unscaleable wall that allows a defender to view more sides of itself than the attacker. lets say, a box with triangles where the corners would be.
1a: economical wall materials
* if the swampland has trees the simplest solution that would be to your advantage is to hire someone to fell the trees
* hurricanes are a fact of life in that part of the country, one could rent a box truck at the right time of year and have people help you load it for free with as many loads of scrap lumber/concrete/steel as you can make. it would be a ramshackle wall but a wall nonetheless
* get the licensing to become a tire storage facility. make people and tire changing stores pay you to dispose of their tires on your property
* i dont know if there is licensing required but investigate becoming a junkyard. get paid to build a wall of junk cars

then you can attach some scaffolding on your side of the wall at the key points to give the impression that you could use them to repel any attempts at scaling the walls. but you should never need to. the idea of the fortification is to deter assault in the first place.
2. the access points
as others have pointed out, having one way in and out is both good and bad. instead what you want is one access point that is well fortified and less obvious, ie not facing public areas where it could be scouted. the second entrance should be much more lightly protected, maybe with nothing more than a flimsy gate and a dim lightbulb. you want your enemy to be funneled into a specific approach so that if the attack comes, you know where it will be. this obviously does not mitigate needing other deterrents such as lights along the walls or cameras as others have pointed out, but it does give you much better odds of deterring where the attackers are if your perimeter is breached.
the goal of fortifying is deterrence; you want to intimidate your foe into avoiding a fight in the first place beacuse doing so will cost more than they are willing to spend, be it in time or blood or both.
things other people have said that i think are good ideas
* thorn bushes
* guard dogs/ alert dogs
* clear lines of sight on your approach and well concealed path of escape
* be very friendly with your neighbors and local law enforecement, host lots of parties and that doesnt mean loud music and drugs but free food and a good time be it videogames or live music or just watching a movie.
* off road vehciles like dirt bikes, ebikes, or atvs are a great idea
* tunnels would be a good idea but in a swamp they wont work
* remote controled buckets that can drop caltrops would be a good idea though i dont know how legal that is
* camo netting over your property would be a good drone deterrent
* have your own drone so you can scout things remotely
* flamethrowers are cool and legal

 

[Neodanthril]

some additional ideas.
* you should not listen to upstanding masculine man jordan peterson and instead become an agent of chaos. buy lots of firecrackers and throw them over the wall to create confusion, put some longer fuzes on those morter shell fireworks and drop them from your drone all over the place or on the bad guys if you can find them
* create an alert program that when activated will call local authorities and broadcast pertinent info (your name, address, you fear for your life) on repeat so that you may address the threat without distraction and get help as soon as possible
* risky and stupid idea: put dry leaves and dead sticks in your approach to your home and put a flamethrower or a road flare on your drone so you can start a fire behind the bad guys

 

[Glowie]

Booby-traps are criminal.

I'd like to elaborate
You can however install proximity sensors and remote locks indoors, noisemakers and other non lethal deterrents are legal.

Keep system localised with independent power source, so you know who is coming from and where. If I am not mistaken US castle doctrine allows you to shoot intruders in self defense without legal repercussions.

 

[The Highwayman]

I'm a neophyte with guns, but I do know dogs and can give some thoughts:

Spoiler: General Principles

Get any dog big enough to kill you from dog from a reputable breeder. Modern American shelters have been contaminated with canis unfamiliaris thoroughly. Look for those breeding working rather than show dogs who value on the dog's functionality, confirmation, and general health beyond being able to stumble into the ring at 2 and SMASH AND SLAM out some prize litters before dying before 6. Mainstream Westminster kennel culture is very Amerimutt and only a few degrees better than our Animal Breeding Horrorshows thread. Do your research on the breed standards as set by the various European and Japanese clubs and thoroughly vet the breeder. Only adopt if you know the dog's history completely and trust the former owner, and even in this case I would really only consider adoption for something like an alerting chihuahua where it's trauma and hatred of anyone that isn't you might actually be positive.

Look for personality among the litter and consider the more energetic ones that are nonetheless quick to learn and most importantly not insecure. Hierarchies build in the pack that can last for life just like in human families. Those sluggish or more behind might exhibiting the early signs of genetic or health problems, those showing social problems or insecurity might be exhibiting the early signs of developing into a complete untrainable menace.

Early training is essential, you need to be consistent from puppy hood and widely socialize them with other dogs and friendly members of the community, even if you live remotely. There's an ancient Greek proverb that the good dog is one that can distinguish between family and foe and that's pretty fucking true. Even a smart guard dog like an Akita might accidentally kill the neighbor girl for violating your NAP if you don't put the work into training it and there's no faster way to become a pariah in a small town. I like the Monks of Skete's books. They're a monastic order that raise service German Shepherds to fund themselves and they know their shit. There's also no shame in hiring a good local trainer, and this is doubly true if you go with a more challenging primitive breed like the larger Nihon Ken.

For diet, the minimum is a high quality non grain food (Origin Red is affordable and good), if you have the money and willingness, strongly consider raw feeding. Modern dog food is basically corn syrup but for dogs which has been pushed by mass multinational conglomerates into being the norm by manipulating veterinary pedagogy. Your dog will be healthier on a prey diet (10 percent organ, 10 percent bone, 80 percent meat). Costs can be lowered by making relationships with hunters and farmers who will have cotsthat are not desired by humans but perfectly fine for dogs-- this is how we developed the relationship between our species in the first place.

Spoiler: A Word on Shibbles

Before we go any farther, I feel the need to rant a bit about canis unfamiliaris. I know you have much the same attitude about them I do, so this is more for the thread's benefit. Pibbles and all their mongrel offspring were developed for one thing-- ability to kill whatever was thrown in a ring with them. Anglo chavs created the pit bull line by crossing the old bullbaiting dogs for maximum strength and combat prowess with terriers for maximum retardation and tenacity. This is what separates them from real guard dogs like the Akita that were chosen for loyalty and intelligence-- crucial for not murdering the new baby or mailman-- as well as reactivity and physical prowess. Guard breeds have been used for dog fighting throughout history (Akitas absolutely were) but very rarely fighting as guard breeds. An exceptionally smart and loyal pit might nonetheless perform this function well, but you'd have to really luck out and you'll always be under the fear it might tard out and default. I don't blame the dogs, I blame the trashy cultures that bred and keep breeding them.

Spoiler: A Word on Breeds

There's way too many viable options to go through for breeds so I'll again stick to general principles-- know your life style and wants and aggressively research the breeds that will suit them. Also remember availability and locality. Lots of rural communities kind of have a signature cross or breed they use for defense, herding, and alerting and you may be best going with whatever the place you're in can produce at the highest quality rather than what dog breed you think might be the ultimate ideal. In Alaska, I'd strongly consider a malamute. They're strong, smart, and fiercely loyal. I wouldn't consider them in a scalding Florida swamp ill suited to them and with breeders of sketchy quality that might be four hours away.

The main dividing line will be between alerting and guarding breeds. Alerting breeds (eg. Chihuahua) are bred to be hyper vigilant and make a lot of sound when anything is out of the ordinary, guard breeds are more built to physically protecting you (eg. an Akita). Of course this is more of a spectrum than firm categories as all dogs can kind of do both and many guard breeds are classified as herding or the like. I'm going to make a devil's advocate argument to consider the former in addition to the latter. The main thing a dog gives you in a self defense situation is critical seconds of forewarning and a psychological message to anyone trespassing that they've been outed. A dog that can physically defend you is good, but against well armed ex military troons might just be more of a heartbreaking and potentially very expensive meat shield. An alerting breed may give you critical more minutes of forewarning and better detection. They were also bred for exactly the environs you'll be in-- remote rural homesteads and plantations where stimulation is low and pups were selected for their ability to catch any sound out of the ordinary promptly. It's largely been their move into overstimulated suburbs and cities that have given them their bad and yappy reputation. The ideal approach of course is to take a 'both and' mentality since there's no reason you couldn't socialize and cooperatively train a guard dog with an alerting dog.

Another one outside these conventional categories not to sleep on is the standard poodle. Yes poodles. They are the gigachads of dog intelligence, incredibly trainable, and able to execute complex plans. The French used them as police dogs for a good while and they're not small or unable to hold their own in a scrap. They're not as powerful physically as something like an Akita, Irish Wolf Hound, or German Shepherd but that brain shouldn't be overlooked. You could legitimately have a poodle trained to coordinate anti-troon attack patterns alpha through zeta.

 

[Haywire]

Having a gun and practice is great, I would suggest a safe room and perimeter alarms. The best shot loses to surprise or numbers. For starters, motion detection alarms around the perimeter would be a great start, and not illegal like certain booby traps.

For the home: ideally make most of the walls bullet resistant. A great article I've read before covering many options:

https://www.survivalsullivan.com/how-to-bulletproof-walls/

I'd start with BallistiCrete for exterior walls, sandbags outside the perimeter walls making window access difficult, and a front door as expensive and metal as budget allows.

In addition, a central room designated as a safe room. Get that SoaB locked down with concrete block and poured walls, reinforced with sheet metal (At least .5in steel sheets), and a buried emergency line with a generator to get an SOS out. Think Killdozer-style protection, layers and redundancy in a central spot is easiest and cost-effective to do. Frankly, it's probably a decent idea with weather concerns to have a room for storms and 'canes. And if an SOS for law enforcement is viable, it means you only need to keep safe for the response time +20min.

Lastly, store an extra firearm, ammo, water, a first aid kit, a flashlight and extra batteries, and a few MREs or long shelf life foods that will be viable if you forget to refresh it. Finally, a book wouldn't be a bad extra for staying sane, exile.

 

[Devious Dave]

I know it's illegal to shoot down a drone with a gun but I wonder if one of these would be a good option since it's not a firearm

https://youtu.be/XRDDYEBs9K4

 

[Burekbossman]

I know it's illegal to shoot down a drone with a gun but I wonder if one of these would be a good option since it's not a firearm

You can make a device that's essentially a directed microwave gun to fry the drone's circuits. Thought i saw a video about it ages ago.

 

[Dean Pentel]

Aim for the pelvis/hip area if you suspect they have a vest.
Its often the first place your barrel crosses as you bring it up, normally plate carriers don't cover it, and it will put them on the floor instantly, plenty of arteries and blood vessels meaning they'll black out quickly from blood pressure drop, and you'll likely break the pelvis, which is crippling and will put them out of the fight.
Easier than going for headshots.

I can understand why people say this. From experience both in fights and helping to treat people shot after fights, don't ignore high chest/neck targets if your opponents have plate carriers. At a minimum, remember target selection will depend heavily on how your opponent is moving, how far away they are, and if they're firing at you.

Crack it eventually, yes, but you can't rely on that. I have a setup rated for multiple .30-06 black tip hits. You have to realize that someone like Josh won't be an expert marksman under extreme stress.

Like right this second he likely is a poor shot under any circumstances. If he listens to those of us that have experience and trains regularly and attentively he can get good damn quick.

 

[mold]

This is the most beautiful mating call any human male has ever performed.

 

[Randomrando]

I am absolutely shocked no one has suggested this yet

Spoiler

 

[Dick Mason]

You can make a device that's essentially a directed microwave gun to fry the drone's circuits.

A directed microwave weapon seems like it would be even less legal than a firearm.

https://www.droneshield.com/c-uas-products/dronegun-tactical

The DroneGun Tactical is a highly effective UAS countermeasure designed for two hand operation and long range defeat. The product includes high performance directional antennas in a lightweight robust rifle style design; featuring an intuitive control panel user interface to select and engage the range of jamming frequencies for target defeat. The DroneGun Tactical provides a safe countermeasure against a wide range of UAS threats (e.g. drones), with no damage to common UAS models or surrounding environment.

When disruption is triggered, UAS targets (e.g. drone) will respond via vertical on the spot landing or return to its remote controller or starting point.

DroneShield’s C-UAS defeat capabilities do not involve protocol manipulation or “cyber” tactics, given the limitations of those methods. Our defeat technologies offer non-kinetic disruption for the controlled management of threats.

I wonder how much these go for?

DroneGun Tactical has not been authorized as required by the United States Federal Communications Commission (“FCC”). This device is not, and may not be, offered for sale or lease, or sold or leased, in the United States, other than to the United States government, its agencies, and its properly delegated representatives, until such authorization is obtained. The use of DroneGun Tactical in the United States by other persons or entities, including, in certain circumstances, state or local government agencies, is prohibited by federal law. Laws limiting the availability of DroneGun Tactical to certain types of users may apply in other jurisdictions, and any sales will be conducted only in compliance with the applicable laws.

I guess that's a no for those also.

 

[God's drunkest driver]

I wonder how much these go for?

A lot more than an FPV quad with a cheap fishing net dangling below it. All you have to do is tangle up a couple of props and any multirotor with fewer than 8 motors is going down, and the big ones usually can't outrun a 5" FPV quad on 4S or greater. I've given a lot of thought to drone countermeasures because I was working in that industry and all of the high tech whiz bang bullshit like microwave guns (inverse square law says hi) doesn't hold a candle to a drone vs drone countermeasure in most scenarios. Now you won't likely be chasing another small quadcopter down and tangling it, but most consumer multirotors are DJIs or similar which aren't fast or very maneuverable and chances are they won't spot you coming at them at 80+mph with a long line trailing behind you or a net. Tangle the props and the threat is neutralized.