TASKFORCE ∅ - This is my swamp

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A lot more than an FPV quad with a cheap fishing net dangling below it. All you have to do is tangle up a couple of props and any multirotor with fewer than 8 motors is going down, and the big ones usually can't outrun a 5" FPV quad on 4S or greater. I've given a lot of thought to drone countermeasures because I was working in that industry and all of the high tech whiz bang bullshit like microwave guns (inverse square law says hi) doesn't hold a candle to a drone vs drone countermeasure in most scenarios. Now you won't likely be chasing another small quadcopter down and tangling it, but most consumer multirotors are DJIs or similar which aren't fast or very maneuverable and chances are they won't spot you coming at them at 80+mph with a long line trailing behind you or a net. Tangle the props and the threat is neutralized.
Wouldn't that still come under the "interfering with the flight of an aircraft" or "sabotage of a aircraft" Federal law that stops people from just shooting the things down though?
The FAA counts drones as aircraft, thats the whole reason its illegal to just blast the things with a Goose Gun, if you're doing something to bring it down, even if you're not shooting it, wouldn't it be the same charge?
 
I'm ignoring the legal side of it, I'm only talking about effective countermeasures. I don't know what the risk of being charged for entangling someone else's drone over your homestead is, probably vanishingly small if it isn't government or commercial i.e. amazon. What I do know is that entangling is basically an instakill for any multirotor and a forced landing for a fixed wing, and it's a lot cheaper, more covert, and easier to field than some absolute tank of a microwave gun.
 
I wanted to add a note to my recommendations, specifically for cameras. Whatever system you use, it'd be good to buy a batch of decoy cameras too.

Ideally your real cameras remain hidden, and you have decoys in spots where a paranoid lunatic will expect them. This is good both to deter casual harassers, and to give the lunatics something to shoot at to give you warning. Real cameras work just as well but are obviously more expensive.

If you've successfully limited the approaches to your house, put a decoy up to watch the entrance. The real cameras should be watching the entrance from an unexpected angle, plus the spot where one would attack or walk around to avoid the decoy's line of sight. Then another real one halfway to the house, hidden as best you can. Then multiple decoys on the house itself, and a camera watching the exit of that approach and/or where you would move to avoid those decoys.

(If needed add a little extra to the house and entrance decoys, like blinking LEDs or wires running "into" the walls, to make them hold up to scrutiny under surveillance.)

The idea is to have proper full coverage with real cameras, to provide the advance warning you need to bail out, with decoys forcing the enemy to give you warning or slow down. Either one gives you more time, for very cheap, if you can map out a good psychological barrier with them.
 
If my life were really in danger, I would probably move to Russia where these tranny fucks can't get to me.
But I should not need to worry; I am in one of the stand-your-ground state.
 
Can I get a bit of clarification on the scenario? What kind of acreage are we talking? Is the house centered on the property? How developed is the access to the property? You stated a manufactured home was put on the property, does that mean relatively heavy equipment could access the property for improvement?
 
Okay, I don't know where else to put this, but I am thinking about how to get Internet in the middle of nowhere.

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this setup is stupid expensive though. the pneumatic mast is like $2000+$2000 shipping from chyna and i cant find locals with price tag.
 
a guy at work told me he met car traveling bongs in north / west africa using starlink for remote journeys
 
Okay, I don't know where else to put this, but I am thinking about how to get Internet in the middle of nowhere.

this setup is stupid expensive though. the pneumatic mast is like $2000+$2000 shipping from chyna and i cant find locals with price tag.
Use Carlon or similar product for your wires. Long lasting, UV resistant, weather stable. A pneumatic mast is extreme overkill and so is two dishes. As long as the skyline is relatively free of trees and obstructions to the north, the roof of a two storey home is more than enough.
 
Use Carlon or similar product for your wires. Long lasting, UV resistant, weather stable. A pneumatic mast is extreme overkill and so is two dishes. As long as the skyline is relatively free of trees and obstructions to the north, the roof of a two storey home is more than enough.
two dishes are not overkill, i need as much bandwidth as i can, and even doing this just doubles the width and not synchronous speeds. i am still looking at 250+250/20+20 tops.

the mast will clear everything. i like how you say "mast is overkill" and then are like "it needs a clear view"
 
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two dishes are not overkill, i need as much bandwidth as i can, and even doing this just doubles the width and not synchronous speeds. i am still looking at 250+250/20+20 tops.

the mast will clear everything. i like how you say "mast is overkill" and then are like "it needs a clear view"
Point being that you really don’t need to be that high up to get coverage and a roof normally suffices. What are you going to do about the wind on a 20 ft mast? Whatever you’re renting sure as shit doesn’t have insurance for a radio antenna falling down on it.
 
clearance. if there's so much as a fucking tree leaf in view the entire thing throws a bitch fit and cries
Just hinge it at the base and stand it up once antenna(s) are installed, telescopic sucks unless its like the really cool military ones that cost 50k to build.

I will both build and install this out of corten weathering steel for only 2k (its pretty ez if its only 20ft)

edit: oh thats a primitive depiction of a trailer, thats also doable
 
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Okay, I don't know where else to put this, but I am thinking about how to get Internet in the middle of nowhere.

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this setup is stupid expensive though. the pneumatic mast is like $2000+$2000 shipping from chyna and i cant find locals with price tag.
Have you looked into something like this for the mast? It's not pneumatic, but it's very easy to deploy, and wind resistant if guyed down. I have the exact same one I use out in the field for a end fed half wave for HAM radio.

You can make a really cheap and easy stand for these by getting a 5 gallon home depot bucket and some quickcrete.

Also, it would be cheap enough to buy two separate masts that you can put at different locations.

DX-Engineering also has an entire section for telescoping masts: https://www.dxengineering.com/search/part-type/telescoping-masts/
 
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Look at telescoping masts. I know there are Starlink specific ones. Even if you need 2 then you're still cheaper. If you can use guy wires then you're easier/cheaper still.

Steel with guy wires is the cheapest:

Fiberglass:
https://mfjenterprises.com/collections/mfj/products/mfj-1904hd I have the 33ft version of this which like many things they don't sell any more and I use it shorter so it's more sturdy. I use it braced to a building and it only has a weather station on top so I don't bother with guy wires.

These guys sell a(single) starlink adapter and this mast: https://mobilemusthave.com/products...na-mounting-pole-in-carbon-black-20-foot-mast

Also be sure to check for not-Starlink options as per my rant on the MATI thread. redundancy is best when they don't upgrade your firmware and knock out both units. Yes, I know you're going to be rural, so are my parents.

If you need un-guyed it needs significantly more support if you can't brace against a building. Then you're in the realm of towers or as you found stand-alone trailer style units with very heavy masts.
 
from experience, not having access to the starlink is a nightmare.
yea i meant like hinge it at the base then you can have a pin you pull to lower it back down if needed, telescopic will one day get stuck or stop working (and also lack the strength and certainty of steel)
 
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