- Joined
- Apr 18, 2019
The speculative market claims all hobbies. It's bad enough that modern Marlin(Ruger) is very expensive.
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The speculative market claims all hobbies. It's bad enough that modern Marlin(Ruger) is very expensive.
The classic series is not in full production yet and is subject to price gouging ATM. Like the new colt python's were for awhileBelieve you me, I'm fucking feeling the $1.25 too. And yeah, get a lever-action fellas, very fun and you might be surprised at how well you shoot them. The newer Marlins that are made by Ruger are pretty damn good but they're also charging out the ass for them so it's kind of a monkey's paw rn.
Edit:
NIGGA!!!
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They're making them at a high quality now that they feel justifies the price. The new Marlins are very good. almost as good as the Miroku Winchesters. Winchester still has them beat on blueing quality and wood but if you are going for a stainless w/ laminate stocks that doesn't matter. I'm really tempted by the trapper series (a ridiculous name but i digress). I got to handle one and was very impressed with it.The speculative market claims all hobbies. It's bad enough that modern Marlin(Ruger) is very expensive.
They really are just copying absolutely everything the West invents without looking into the why, reminds me of their keyholing bullpups since they somehow didn't realize twist rates actually matter.8.6mm/.338 MG
I just hope the gouging actually stops sooner rather than later. The Ruger Marlins and JM Marlins (at a non raped price point) are probably some of the best side-ejecting lever actions for the price rn. I own one of the newer Henry lever actions that has both a kingsgate and a removeable magazine tube, but I honestly still think Marlins just feel better in the hand tbh.The classic series is not in full production yet and is subject to price gouging ATM. Like the new colt python's were for awhile
They're making them at a high quality now that they feel justifies the price. The new Marlins are very good. almost as good as the Miroku Winchesters. Winchester still has them beat on blueing quality and wood but if you are going for a stainless w/ laminate stocks that doesn't matter. I'm really tempted by the trapper series (a ridiculous name but i digress). I got to handle one and was very impressed with it.
This gross tranny (which I just made another post about in the Guntuber thread) has more recently made this cool Integrally suppressed Ruger Standard that deviates from the "traditional" continuous diameter integral suppressor designA gross tranny (POWER WORD: MICHAEL CRUMLING, Born 1989) has made an AR out of scrap metal with a few COTS parts, it is functional and full auto (He is an SOTranny)
I use high temp grease on the operating parts of anything manually operated, and engine oil for anything self loading/anti-rust. Gun-specific lubricants are snake oil imo.What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.
I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?
Shooting people who are far away?They really are just copying absolutely everything the West invents without looking into the why
This supposed "Issue" was recorded once with the QBZ-191 (not the -95) in a shoothouse environment (non lethal training rounds) and has never appeared sincereminds me of their keyholing bullpups
yes and no. by the book, a receiver is a chunk of plastic/metal until it's assigned a serial number and booked into a manufacturer's inventory. if a receiver is damaged and repaired with the same serial number, it's the same firearm/frame/receiver and no further work is needed. if you have two serialized items (two receivers, a receiver and a suppressor, et c) then they are considered one item with the serial number of the "active" receiver being the make/model, or a new serial number representing the conjoined receiver is created. when they are separated is when the other serial number is recorded again.Does welding two receivers together make them one receiver legally speaking
if you mean break-free CLP, it leaves a dry film lubricant on surfaces as the carrier fluid evaporates. this is intentional because wet lubricated surfaces attract and retain particle debris. rifles are stored vertically in a rack for convenience. an enclosed space that is climate/humidity controlled like a well kept closet, and a yearly inspection and detailed cleaning/lubrication should be fine if not ideal. ideal would mean they have a uniquely controlled environment for storage (cool/dry throughout the year and not exposed to condensation). if you use your rifle more or if its exposed to the elements regularly, a schedule of preventative maintenance every couple thousand rounds and each week (or every other day, end of each day if you're on a camping trip or when deployed) combined with an inspection and field cleaning prior to deployment is plenty for general readiness.I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob.
How to lubricate you gun always comes down to personal preference, so take it with a grain of salt. With that out of the way, I've found Gunfighter Gun Oil doesn't seem to dry out quickly as Hoppe's or any brand of CLP I've tried. Most of my guns have some oil left on them after sitting in their cases for a month, including my carry gun. As for your issue of lubrication not traveling into the buffer and trigger group pin, the way it's standing or set isn't going to be the biggest factor of helping them stay lubricated as much as applying oil to the specified area regularly and keeping the gun closed up as much as possible. Depending on your rifle, keep the bolt closed, dust covers shut and a mag seated will help prevent the oil drying out any quicker than it does so already.What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.
I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?
What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.
I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?
For ARs in particular, CLP is fine, but for every firearm I own, it's been fine too. Even my old shit like my CZ-52 and the delicate stuff like my Pietta color case hardened shit is fine with a spray and wipe with CLP. I do use a little grease for SA pistol slide rails but that's about as far as I stray from "CLP all the things".I've pretty much stuck with Breakfree CLP and Lucas Oil CLP. I use a bore snake in the appropriate caliber and a metric fuck ton of Q-Tips. Hasn't failed me yet.
Only all metal guns like CZ75's and 1911's I like to use a tiny amount of either Lucas Oil Grease or Lucas Oil Red N Tacky Grease.
"Renaissance Wax" or any kind of microcrystalline wax is ideal for preserving old world color case hardening and peacock bluing. it'll also increase vibrancy if applied like shellac in a half dozen or so thin coats with a sponge after a very light oiling. you know when light bouncing off it isn't distorted or discolored.Pietta color case hardened
I'm glad that this never really caught on. Might as well be shooting people with a pellet rifle.Does someone make subsonic 5.56 in similar spec to m885?
No need to kink shame your little yard bandit.Without a gun, I dunno how I would had stopped this raccoon from trying to impregnate my Winnie the Pooh lawn ornament.![]()
I use my dwindling supply of original formula XF-7 grease for just about all my firearms internal component lube. Another lube type that I've tried that I'm happy with is this one. Inexpensive, effective, you can mix up a whole lot for not a lot of money. For weapons that have temperamental finishes or they corrode a bit because I carry them often, I apply a light outer coat of Marine Tuf-Glide, either with their cloth or their spray bottle. That stuff also works well.What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.
I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?
I'm not sure if Pietta or Uberti does real CCH. It's probably a chemical wash. real CCH is fairly expensive and i don't think they could do it at the price point most their guns sell at. Fairly sure Pedersoli does real CCH but they are a premium brand, and of course all the higher end Italian shotgun brands do real CCH (FAIR, Beretta, etc)"Renaissance Wax" or any kind of microcrystalline wax is ideal for preserving old world color case hardening and peacock bluing. it'll also increase vibrancy if applied like shellac in a half dozen or so thin coats with a sponge after a very light oiling. you know when light bouncing off it isn't distorted or discolored.