Mega Rad Gun Thread

Believe you me, I'm fucking feeling the $1.25 too. And yeah, get a lever-action fellas, very fun and you might be surprised at how well you shoot them. The newer Marlins that are made by Ruger are pretty damn good but they're also charging out the ass for them so it's kind of a monkey's paw rn.

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NIGGA!!!
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The classic series is not in full production yet and is subject to price gouging ATM. Like the new colt python's were for awhile
The speculative market claims all hobbies. It's bad enough that modern Marlin(Ruger) is very expensive.
They're making them at a high quality now that they feel justifies the price. The new Marlins are very good. almost as good as the Miroku Winchesters. Winchester still has them beat on blueing quality and wood but if you are going for a stainless w/ laminate stocks that doesn't matter. I'm really tempted by the trapper series (a ridiculous name but i digress). I got to handle one and was very impressed with it.
 
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"Not For Resale
Commercial Use Only"

someone messed up. but i won't tell.
 
8.6mm/.338 MG
They really are just copying absolutely everything the West invents without looking into the why, reminds me of their keyholing bullpups since they somehow didn't realize twist rates actually matter.
quick someone shill them 1 in 3 as the latest in US firearms development
 
The classic series is not in full production yet and is subject to price gouging ATM. Like the new colt python's were for awhile

They're making them at a high quality now that they feel justifies the price. The new Marlins are very good. almost as good as the Miroku Winchesters. Winchester still has them beat on blueing quality and wood but if you are going for a stainless w/ laminate stocks that doesn't matter. I'm really tempted by the trapper series (a ridiculous name but i digress). I got to handle one and was very impressed with it.
I just hope the gouging actually stops sooner rather than later. The Ruger Marlins and JM Marlins (at a non raped price point) are probably some of the best side-ejecting lever actions for the price rn. I own one of the newer Henry lever actions that has both a kingsgate and a removeable magazine tube, but I honestly still think Marlins just feel better in the hand tbh.

Those Miroku are fuggin beautiful though not gonna lie.
 
A gross tranny (POWER WORD: MICHAEL CRUMLING, Born 1989) has made an AR out of scrap metal with a few COTS parts, it is functional and full auto (He is an SOTranny)
This gross tranny (which I just made another post about in the Guntuber thread) has more recently made this cool Integrally suppressed Ruger Standard that deviates from the "traditional" continuous diameter integral suppressor design
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Russian SOBR Officer with TP9
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Export model QBZ-191 in 7.62x39 at a recent Chinese arms expo. Expect these to be seen in the 2040's in the hands of the hordes of Jihadi's that are going to take over large parts of Africa by that time. In the back you can also see the 5.56 export model
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And here's the .308 export model
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Prototype Russian SR-2 Veresk
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Drawings of other concepts
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Lee Enfield modified into an integrally suppressed takedown rifle
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Apparently back in the day the guy behind the Gyrojet actually managed to kill a deer with one
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Chopped and converted G3 in the Khyber Pass
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Domestically produced Iraqi side charging upper
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Fishgun and a Kitty Cat
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RP-46 during one of the Liberian civil wars
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9A-91 in use with Syrian SF
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QBZ-192 with extended charging handle and mall ninja "ergonomic" charging bracelet (the idea is that when you have a malfunction you just jerk your hand back)
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Type 67 integrally suppressed pistol
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Standalone adapter for a KAC Masterkey
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@Club Sandwich
Does welding two receivers together make them one receiver legally speaking (I assume that would be the case but I am curious)
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What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.

I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?
 
What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.

I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?
I use high temp grease on the operating parts of anything manually operated, and engine oil for anything self loading/anti-rust. Gun-specific lubricants are snake oil imo.
 
They really are just copying absolutely everything the West invents without looking into the why
Shooting people who are far away?
reminds me of their keyholing bullpups
This supposed "Issue" was recorded once with the QBZ-191 (not the -95) in a shoothouse environment (non lethal training rounds) and has never appeared since

Suppressed low velocity 25mm Barrett prototype
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Bullpup Vepr
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Black Rain Ordnance "Freedom Fighter"
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Sedgley Glove Gun in a Taiwanese muesem

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QBZ-191 BCG
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Taiwanese Police with a Striker
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Crossfire Model 88 Semi auto combination gun. Has two side by side magazines. Have no idea how it feeds as there is a huge distance between the top barrel and the top of the magazine , you're probably familiar with the 5.56/12G pump action only model but the rifle barrel on this one is .308
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Savage Model 1903, pump action yet magazine fed, has a bolt hold open to prevent firing on an empty chamber
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QBS-11 Knife gun in 5.8x21mm
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Ukrainian "Corsac" AK Modernization next a Malyuk AK Bullpup Conversion
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Asgard Defense M127 Kriger, last update on it was July 2021 and the company website is defunct (FFL is still active though according to FFL's.com)
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Before they ventured into manufacturing they engaged in conversion and upgrade work, as this is a Benelli M4

Some Knife company called Max Venom made a "Bump Lock" for a Glock, It retails for $200 on Performancetriggers.com

Instead of paying that retarded price for something that is worse than that still in development DIY FRT option a fosscad guy CAD'd a clone up
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They also make this thing
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You're supposed to be able to CC it but I don't understand where the gun is supposed to be in this showcase image
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Does welding two receivers together make them one receiver legally speaking
yes and no. by the book, a receiver is a chunk of plastic/metal until it's assigned a serial number and booked into a manufacturer's inventory. if a receiver is damaged and repaired with the same serial number, it's the same firearm/frame/receiver and no further work is needed. if you have two serialized items (two receivers, a receiver and a suppressor, et c) then they are considered one item with the serial number of the "active" receiver being the make/model, or a new serial number representing the conjoined receiver is created. when they are separated is when the other serial number is recorded again.

for your example, i've done some similar things, although not permanently, and the rule i was told was that one of the receivers becomes the firearm (or make a new serial number/make/model and book it in as a new firearm entirely to represent the conjoined object) and the other becomes a controlled accessory. what is a controlled accessory? a controlled item that has features "bolted on" to it. a masterkey is a short barreled shotgun when attached to a rifle, and has it's own serial number and frame. however the rifle is still the "main" firearm in and of itself, and if its from a factory in this configuration it is possible to issue one serial number and have a unique model for this conjoined system (meaning no serial number on the shotgun portion) if the shotgun is a permanent attachment to the rifle. drilling rifles or combination rifles don't fit this definition as they have one receiver and multiple barrels/calibers, and in your specific example of a lengthened receiver being manufactured, the end product must have a serial number, but one or both of the two original receivers used for the lengthening must either never have had serial numbers (so they were parts put together), or one of them is recorded as destroyed when permanently attached to the new receiver.

I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob.
if you mean break-free CLP, it leaves a dry film lubricant on surfaces as the carrier fluid evaporates. this is intentional because wet lubricated surfaces attract and retain particle debris. rifles are stored vertically in a rack for convenience. an enclosed space that is climate/humidity controlled like a well kept closet, and a yearly inspection and detailed cleaning/lubrication should be fine if not ideal. ideal would mean they have a uniquely controlled environment for storage (cool/dry throughout the year and not exposed to condensation). if you use your rifle more or if its exposed to the elements regularly, a schedule of preventative maintenance every couple thousand rounds and each week (or every other day, end of each day if you're on a camping trip or when deployed) combined with an inspection and field cleaning prior to deployment is plenty for general readiness.
 
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What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.

I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?
How to lubricate you gun always comes down to personal preference, so take it with a grain of salt. With that out of the way, I've found Gunfighter Gun Oil doesn't seem to dry out quickly as Hoppe's or any brand of CLP I've tried. Most of my guns have some oil left on them after sitting in their cases for a month, including my carry gun. As for your issue of lubrication not traveling into the buffer and trigger group pin, the way it's standing or set isn't going to be the biggest factor of helping them stay lubricated as much as applying oil to the specified area regularly and keeping the gun closed up as much as possible. Depending on your rifle, keep the bolt closed, dust covers shut and a mag seated will help prevent the oil drying out any quicker than it does so already.
 
What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.

I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?

I've pretty much stuck with Breakfree CLP and Lucas Oil CLP. I use a bore snake in the appropriate caliber and a metric fuck ton of Q-Tips. Hasn't failed me yet.

Only all metal guns like CZ75's and 1911's I like to use a tiny amount of either Lucas Oil Grease or Lucas Oil Red N Tacky Grease.
 
I've pretty much stuck with Breakfree CLP and Lucas Oil CLP. I use a bore snake in the appropriate caliber and a metric fuck ton of Q-Tips. Hasn't failed me yet.

Only all metal guns like CZ75's and 1911's I like to use a tiny amount of either Lucas Oil Grease or Lucas Oil Red N Tacky Grease.
For ARs in particular, CLP is fine, but for every firearm I own, it's been fine too. Even my old shit like my CZ-52 and the delicate stuff like my Pietta color case hardened shit is fine with a spray and wipe with CLP. I do use a little grease for SA pistol slide rails but that's about as far as I stray from "CLP all the things".
 
Pietta color case hardened
"Renaissance Wax" or any kind of microcrystalline wax is ideal for preserving old world color case hardening and peacock bluing. it'll also increase vibrancy if applied like shellac in a half dozen or so thin coats with a sponge after a very light oiling. you know when light bouncing off it isn't distorted or discolored.
 
Does someone make subsonic 5.56 in similar spec to m885?
I'm glad that this never really caught on. Might as well be shooting people with a pellet rifle.
Without a gun, I dunno how I would had stopped this raccoon from trying to impregnate my Winnie the Pooh lawn ornament. (:_(
No need to kink shame your little yard bandit.
What should I be using to keep my gun lubricated? I keep it stored in a rifle pack in my closet behind some clothes. I’ve been using breakthrough spray solvent and their clear oil like a noob. After doing a field strip clean after shooting I’ll apply oil to the gun toothbrush and apply a thin coat to all friction surfaces inside the bcg and receiver.

I’ve noticed it dries up after sitting for a week and I have to reapply before going to shoot. Since it’s laying flat no lubrication travels into the buffer system. I’m considering the idea of switching to a jelly or lube after applying solvent and oil. Would installing a standing rifle rack assist in lubricating my trigger group pins and buffer?
I use my dwindling supply of original formula XF-7 grease for just about all my firearms internal component lube. Another lube type that I've tried that I'm happy with is this one. Inexpensive, effective, you can mix up a whole lot for not a lot of money. For weapons that have temperamental finishes or they corrode a bit because I carry them often, I apply a light outer coat of Marine Tuf-Glide, either with their cloth or their spray bottle. That stuff also works well.

Thread tax: alright bros, another good, less expensive method to transport ammo is to simply fly with it. I've tested this and can confirm firsthand it works, plus 3 professional competitive shooters have endorsed it.

Put your ammo in your primary suitcase along with all your clothes/toiletries/accessories/etc. Put your firearms and some of your ammo in another bag you're going to check (you're checking 2 bags). If your primary bag comes in over the weight limit, pay the fee and lie about what's in there. This assumes they even ask at the ticket counter, which they typically don't. The airlines are the ones that care about the weight. The TSA only cares that the ammo is packed securely, which means either in a boxes or in magazines that aren't in the weapon. The two don't correspond about this because you interact with them separately.

Don't call attention to your stuff by either packing it incorrectly or traveling with a loaded weapon and you'll be fine. The ticket counter people are too busy to be anything other than apathetic to your ammo (if they even know it's in there). Taking it out and weighing it is a lot more work they'd rather not do, so just don't state/hint/imply anything and you're set. It really is that easy. This is in CONUS America, mind you. Haven't tried it internationally.
 
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"Renaissance Wax" or any kind of microcrystalline wax is ideal for preserving old world color case hardening and peacock bluing. it'll also increase vibrancy if applied like shellac in a half dozen or so thin coats with a sponge after a very light oiling. you know when light bouncing off it isn't distorted or discolored.
I'm not sure if Pietta or Uberti does real CCH. It's probably a chemical wash. real CCH is fairly expensive and i don't think they could do it at the price point most their guns sell at. Fairly sure Pedersoli does real CCH but they are a premium brand, and of course all the higher end Italian shotgun brands do real CCH (FAIR, Beretta, etc)
 
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