Warhammer 40k

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That aesthetic is tied to two of the biggest abominations in my field of interests, Starfield and Votrannies
it can work, the X games basically had that style for the terrans in forever (which also works because it's offset by all the other races' designs). that's just ships tho, not troops.
but yeah, doesn't really work with the grimy grimdark of 40k, let alone space dwarves. maybe they were trying to go with "scifi steampunk" or sth.

In regards to space, you need a single table for an FDM printer. Compared to resin that needs space for the printer, a washing station, a curing station and easy access to a drain to dump all the waste.
you can combine the washing/curing station or put the latter on a shelf if you're starved for space. you essentially only move the buildplate around so the washing and curing doesn't need to be as big. I've seen people make the whole thing work in a space of 2 square meters.
the resin/IPA/etc. itself isn't that much of an amount that you couldn't carry it around (and you want to cure it completely first anyway before dumping anything down the drain). I think way back people even used a sonic cleaner with processed water or least simple green, which should be much easier to deal with than IPA. you'd still want to treat the water in sunlight for a time tho.

as for heat, depends on your location, you could still put it in an encasement or garden tent even in a garage to trap some of the heat which might be enough - just vent it properly afterwards before opening it (or use a proper mask). think of it like growing plastic minis instead of weed.
 
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Got those MTO terminators in, these guys really are the perfect middle ground, old styled terminators, upscaled properly and lacking the Primaris design ques. Plus, despite being push-fit, it’s not too difficult to customize them.
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It’s weird to say that GW inspired me with the video on EC Terminators but here we are.
 
Hoping someone familiar with Airbrushing can help me out - a buddy just gave me a motor for one that was sitting in the trunk of his car for like three years. Looks fine and he says it is but is there anything I should look out for or test?
 
Hoping someone familiar with Airbrushing can help me out - a buddy just gave me a motor for one that was sitting in the trunk of his car for like three years. Looks fine and he says it is but is there anything I should look out for or test?
Is it a tankless compressor? If so, not really. Plug it in, turn it on, if it goes brrr its fine.

If its got a tank, basically the same, but might not hurt to get a moisture trap between your tank and your line. Also if it requires oil it might not hurt to replace that, but if it easily fit in your buddies trunk then it probably doesn't.
 
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That’s just the average Eastern European, rotting and depressed for the amusement of a jolly fat man.

Hell, most the DG are high as fuck if you go by the ending of Warhawk.
I know I had to get a nice jab in about disgusting pajeet streets and culture. DG are entertaining in a manner because they’re the Resident Evil faction. Average Indian just has disgusting resilience in a far different manner and aren’t tough.
 
For contrasts you'd want to use a white base or primer. I've not been able to have good results undercoating with dark paint, the ink part of contrasts is too translucent. Maybe terradon turquoise is different, but from what I've seen you need to base white first.

In case you don't want to spend citadel's upmarked paint prices, vallejo Xpress paint "Snake Green" or army painter speedpaint 2.0 "raging sea" do the same job:

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For anyone else who doesn't want to spend more money on paint: a glaze medium with any teal does the trick. 1:1 parts paint and medium. Glaze medium, lahmian medium, they work well.
Still kinda new to painting minis, but after trying speed paint on one of my Eldar Fire Dragon models im having a hard time seriously considering citadel again. Citadel just seems so overly complicated by comparison
 
Still kinda new to painting minis, but after trying speed paint on one of my Eldar Fire Dragon models im having a hard time seriously considering citadel again. Citadel just seems so overly complicated by comparison
honestly for any contrast/speed/express stuff I just use AP speedpaints. its cheaper and I'm usually just using it as a first color to then traditionally paint on after. only exception is citadel black templar contrast, that stuff slaps.
 
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I thought people liked AoS?
Timestamped for the "action"
That being said even with all of the continued bitching about it since, AoS itself is bigger than most other mini companies.
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And at this point even has a bit of a tournament scene with 2 day tournaments alongside every major 40k event. There's complaining by people who actually play it casually as well, but that's not the same as the people who never touched it. I've just got zero interest in it because that double turn shit they insist on keeping around is worse than normal IGYG in my opinion.

I doubt it. 40k is a money printer, while Old World was basically dead.
It absolutely is and I don't understand where this "it's going to get a reboot" or whatever keeps coming from. It's similar to how people insist "the grimdark" is gone, when it isn't and the writing 30 years ago in WD and a lot of the early novels was also shit. Old World was completely dead in just about every regard, except maybe some die hard game club somewhere but you'd have never known about it and they certainly weren't recruiting people into the playerbase. I think the primary reason bringing back The Old World worked as well as it did is because every other company out there trying to make a rank and flank game pretty much failed, the army boxes(ignoring how old the models are) are dirt cheap for $/model($2.80 for the new high elf and dwarf batallions, $3.21 for that tomb kings box and that's including one of those models being a big centerpiece, as well as ignoring the cost of the books/dice/etc. in the package), and the going away and coming back gave it a boost like the fucking McRib of all things.
Hoping someone familiar with Airbrushing can help me out - a buddy just gave me a motor for one that was sitting in the trunk of his car for like three years. Looks fine and he says it is but is there anything I should look out for or test?
In addition to what was said above, if it has a tank(and make sure there's no air in it before doing this) check to see that it has a drain at the bottom of the tank and empty it. Airbrush compressor tanks can trap moisture(but not all of it, that's why you'll still want a moisture trap like mentioned) and it can build up in the tank. Other than that, if it works it works. Just need an airbrush and a hose.
Imagine if there was a society of four castes, uplifted and ruled by an outside force. One which will be a superpower by M42.
Sad part about people missing this is that it's not even subtle. Caste system, cow hooves, blue skin like some hindu gods. Yeah, the T'au are fucking space indians.
 
I just use AP speedpaints. its cheaper and I'm usually just using it as a first color to then traditionally paint on after. only exception is citadel black templar contrast, that stuff slaps.
I've been putting serious thought into this. Maybe even trying a Gunpla panel liner for space marines.

I'm running into an issue where I don't want to "ruin" my "good models" with a bad paint job, but at the same time I'm not exactly a golden demon winner and don't want to put 800 hours and as many pounds into painting minis.

This is one issue I've been having with my guard (and bolt action nazis), the grey uniforms look flat. Washes are too dark and thinning them down just makes them stain instead of wash. I was told I need to buy medium instead of water and, well, I just don't need or want that much. Meanwhile, on skin it makes it look dirty, which wasn't what I wanted, but I can live with it. I'm tempted to try speedpaint by getting the starter set, a grey, and maybe a khaki green or tan. As you can tell, costs are spiraling and I don't know if it's worth the cost.

I think the primary reason bringing back The Old World worked as well as it did is because every other company out there trying to make a rank and flank game pretty much failed
And there were a bunch of high quality games. Total War and Vermintide spring to mind.
 
I’m shocked Halo Flashpoint is so high up and Bolt Action isn’t there. Just watching the tabletop game it seems so… bland. Especially when compared to Halo Fleet Battle or Halo Ground Command.

Also funny SOIAF on their web page just links directly to Amazon in their shop page.
 
I’m shocked Halo Flashpoint is so high up and Bolt Action isn’t there. Just watching the tabletop game it seems so… bland. Especially when compared to Halo Fleet Battle or Halo Ground Command.

Also funny SOIAF on their web page just links directly to Amazon in their shop page.
Probably only because it's recent. I thought it sounded bland as shit with the initial announcement of spartan armor guys or whatever only but the intent seemed to have been to "mimic" online pvp somehow(and then they added more models later but I haven't kept up with it). Heroscape ending up as large as it has, that's the one that threw me for a loop. I guess people are using it as terrain for other games or something?
 
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Probably only because it's recent. I thought it sounded bland as shit with the initial announcement of spartan armor guys or whatever only but the intent seemed to have been to "mimic" online pvp somehow(and then they added more models later but I haven't kept up with it). Heroscape ending up as large as it has, that's the one that threw me for a loop. I guess people are using it as terrain for other games or something?
You know what? I can see that. Plus you can get some bits too for other models.

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Wings shields, stackable hex terrain all for $125 in. The starter seems good tbh.


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And honestly I just might as well too for Kill Tram terrain
 
I've been putting serious thought into this. Maybe even trying a Gunpla panel liner for space marines.

There is a wealth of stuff used in Gunpla that works a treat on space marines and miniatures in general. A friend of mine in Japan bought me a bunch of these recently in 0.01mm and 0.03mm. They are fantastic for panel lining, battle damage, writing on purity seals, tattoos etc. They have a glossy finish, but you can pull that back with a bit of satin/matt varnish.

As far as washes go, I've almost moved away from them completely. Acrylic ones anyway. Depending on the colour, I'll just give the base colour a wash and then do everything else with layering. The "tea stain" effect sticks out like an erection at a nudist beach. You can wick it back with a bit of ISO, but then you run the risk of affecting the paint underneath if you use too much or you're too rough. The only washes I'll use in earnest are enamel/oil washes if I'm doing any kind of weathering. The amount of control you have over them is insane compared to acrylic washes.

I can't remember who made it, but there was a fantastic guide a few years back on YouTube to painting skin/faces using only GW paints, and there wasn't a wash in sight. It was all done with layering. Once I'd practiced that a few times I've never looked back. You could apply the same principles to any colour, but skin is always something people balk at painting because of the uncanny valley effect. The way the guide was framed was that you have to imagine the layers of paint you're using as actual layers of skin. So the base colour is quite a reddish tone (and a much darker one than you would expect) and subsequent layers use more natural skin tones. It looks way, way better than just a skin tone as a base and then a wash.
 
While enamels and oils are wonderful for some or even most things, I still prefer acrylics in certain circumstances. Drakenhof Nightshade is a crucial part of my Grey Knights armor for example. For sure a guardsman I'd just slap an umber oil wash on that and call it good 99% of the time though.
 
Was thinking of just moving the entire setup down into the garage, but then you run into the issue of maintaining a consistent temperature of ~25'c and I don't trust those tiny chink heaters to run unsupervised for even a minute.

In regards to space, you need a single table for an FDM printer. Compared to resin that needs space for the printer, a washing station, a curing station and easy access to a drain to dump all the waste.
I'm likely to put the fdm into garage but the missus wants it in the office. The fumes is a concern, but i dunno how bad fdm is supposed to be. Resin for sure is going on garage bench, with all the other shit it needs too. Depends if you live in snow or not
 
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