Vehicle Maintenace General

Remember to check your coolant for oil for good measure, easy to do and early detection might pay off big time in cases where oil is going places it shouldn't.
 
waffle said:
You must be a lot smaller than me lol. I can barely get my fingers on one of those bolts
Click to expand...
Mine is the 3.0L Vulcan, so we might be thinking of different things if you have the 2.3 or 4.0L.

On the Vulcan, that bolt at the top is the hardest to get at, but if you spin it out and back in with the right sized socket extension, it's not so bad. I always take that one out first and put it in last so I don't have to worry about dropping the starter on my head.
 
Sperg_rancher said:
Is it ok to put 10w-20 in my car that wants 5w-30? It's a 2007 Dodge stratus with 170,000 miles.
Click to expand...
10w20 is an oil viscosity I've never seen. You mean 0w20? Its a bit thin for an older engine like that. The fancy new 0w20, 0w16 oils are all for fuel efficiency and operation of fancy VVT systems, shit your 20 year old Stratus doesn't have.

Beyond just the SAE viscosity you also want to consider the specific oil spec the manufacturer demands, this is usually a brand-specific thing (for GM cars its Dexos 1, Dexos 2).

I wouldn't put a 20w oil in unless you had no other choice (I have it at home and am too lazy to buy other oil doesn't count).

Jotch said:
When the temp needle registers anything above C you are no longer in the winter temps regime, so warm up in idle until then.
Click to expand...
All cars nowadays have a "high idle" mode in cold starts that will idle the car at like 1200 rpm instead of the normal 800. You don't need to idle the car until the temp gauge shows anything, let it idle until it drops to the normal idle speed and go, just don't rev the shit out of it the first few minutes. The car heats up a lot more effectively and quickly when you're actually moving and the engine is doing work.
 
Last edited:
Nigger420 said:
As an alternative I use a mightyvac pump through the dipstick.
Click to expand...


I just used it to siphon the brake resivior and refill with fresh fluid. Holding the brake pedal down helps get a little more out. Took about half a quart and then did it again after some braking.

Not as good as a bleed through the calipers, but the second siphon was very dirty and braking improved.

I used dot4 when the cap says dot3. Upgrading to beyond spec fluids has gotta be my favorite old car mod.
 
Last edited:
Autistic Gunspergings said:
Oh, and if you actually change your own oil then consider a drain plug. Fumotos have a good reputation. They're like 40 bucks but tool free oil changes that are less messy (okay except maybe a jack) are pretty fucking cool actually. Just make sure it doesn't stick out beneath the frame or you run the risk of debris or particularly bad potholes/bumps hitting it.
Click to expand...
Nigger420 said:
As an alternative I use a mightyvac pump through the dipstick.
Click to expand...
That seems like a whole lot of hassle to go to when your arm is invariably going to get covered in oil unscrewing the filter anyway.
 
Nefarious Elliot said:
Do not perform a 20,000 mile oil change even if God himself descends from heaven to tell you it's OK...
Not when it's clean and new (ie in the bottle), but once it's cooked and used a bit it sort of starts to acidify and very slowly break down, and it gets moisture and oxidation issues when sitting in a motor. Not actually a huge issue over a period of a few months, the reason they're (usually) shorter than that is likely meant as a failsafe against the random dude who just idles his car all day. In your case I would definitely just change it. You should never follow the intervals on the bottle, they're way too long even under perfect conditions.
Click to expand...
I don't recommend it because I get a new work truck every few years but I have done 20k+ oci's a few times. I normally try and do 10k. I only run valvoline full synthetic. The last 3 trucks (all 5.3 GM's) I traded in all ran fine with 200k's on the clock. And shitload of idle time. My current truck has ~6900 hours on the motor. It's always rust and drivetrain issues that do them. I useally only get 100k out of a transmission and wont put a 2nd one in a 200k truck thats starting to rust.
 
I switched over to rotella diesel oil about a decade ago, a lot folks don't know it, but it has a lot good stuff in there for high mileage engines. ZDDP (Zinc) forms a protective film on metal surfaces, reducing friction and wear in high-pressure areas like camshafts and lifters, especially in older or high-performance engines. It also acts as an antioxidant, preventing oil degradation from heat and oxidation. Rotella has the same levels as high end synthetics, at 1/3 the price. You can get a gallon of 10/20w 50 for around 20 bucks.

Oil filters are mostly trash anymore, Fram oil filters are the cheapest pieces of shit you can buy, please avoid those. I use nothing but Wix now (when it comes to any filter, oil, fuel, air, tractor.. )


Also, not really what most people consider general maintenance, but if you don't mind a little work, it never hurts to pull your spark plugs (youtube videos abound for this) and take a look to see what's up with them. Your spark plugs can give a good idea of what your engine is doing.



Don't forget to run some sort of seafoam/berryman's additive through your gas tank every 10 thousand miles (or more often if you want) to keep everything running smoothly. It will clean the fuel system, and the combustion chambers at the same time. Very useful in high mileage engines.
 
Nigger420 said:
What about oil changes based on time? Oil bottle says 20,000 or 1 year. It's been 2 years and 2,000 miles.

Does it really go bad sitting?
Click to expand...
Why are you trusting an oil bottle to tell you when to change the oil in your car?

20k mile oil changes are insane.

Oil that's been run for a long time builds up acids that its no longer able to neutralize with the alkalinity of the additive package. This causes corrosion internally. 2000 miles should be OK though.

If your car lets you - work out the average speed you travel at, and use that figure to do oil changes at around the 200-250 hours mark. Most oils are done around there and need a change. If your average speed is relatively higher then this will be more miles, if its lower it will be less. This is preferable to just a blanket "change oil at 4000 miles" recommendation.
 
Nigger420 said:
What about oil changes based on time? Oil bottle says 20,000 or 1 year. It's been 2 years and 2,000 miles.

Does it really go bad sitting?
Click to expand...
You can pull the oil stick and rub it between your fingers and tell if it has any "grit" left in it. Oil does have a shelf life like that, but you are talking decades and decades, not a couple years setting.
 
Just asking out of curiosity, during the summer or whenever it’s summer-hot out, do you guys change your oil in the morning or at night?

I plan on changing my oil and rotating my tires in the morning because I think it’s going to be chill out but I hate waking up so early.
 
Catman from cat town said:
Just asking out of curiosity, during the summer or whenever it’s summer-hot out, do you guys change your oil in the morning or at night?
Click to expand...
It only takes like 20 minutes to change the oil in most cars so I just do it when I have the time.

Last year I changed the oil in a family members car at noon in Spain in the summertime, just put down some cardboard so you're not on the hot pavement and you'll be fine.

Take a drive around the block to heat the engine up a bit and circulate the oil. Park, let the engine cool a bit while you get your shit out and lay down your cardboard and whatever. Pull drain plug, and let the oil drain. In the meantime pull the oil filter off, wipe up any spills, prep the new filter, attach, etc. Put drain plug back in, fill up new oil, done.

Sammich said:
You can pull the oil stick and rub it between your fingers and tell if it has any "grit" left in it. Oil does have a shelf life like that, but you are talking decades and decades, not a couple years setting.
Click to expand...
There's a much more effective method for gauging oil "condition" by letting a drop fall on some cardstock and observing the resulting stain, but it takes some practice to learn to do it right. I don't bother with that shit and just change the oil a little more frequently so it's not on its last legs.
 
Last edited:
just wasted like 20 minutes trying to figure out why this pile of shit subaru kept throwing up a code about the sunload sensor being low/open and while I should of looked it up like 15 minutes before... Why on earth did fucking Subaru design the car to throw up an OBD code EVERYTIME IT IS IN THE SHADE. I HATE THIS FUCKING CAR, EVERYTHING ABOUT IT IS DESIGNED IN THE MOST RETARDED WAY POSSIBLE, WHY DO PEOPLE BUY THESE FUCKING THINGS.
 
One chemical treatment I would recommend is using Cataclean. It's easy to forget, but parts like the O2 sensors and Catalytic Converter do get dirty over time. You'd be surprised by how often we get customers asking for a diagnostic and to see a P0420 and/or a P0430 code come up.

Dirty O2 sensors trigger those quite a bit. Cataclean is usually a good choice to try and clean them before replacing them. Cat converters should be inspected, especially the grill inside them to see if they're plugged up, cracked or just dirty. Bastards can easily pass $1k on average.
 
Working on modern vehicles is basically a losing battle, everything is so computerized and locked down and built in such a bullshit way anyways it's basically impossible to maintain outside of the dealership, I've even seen some new vehicles have "sealed transmissions", meaning you can't change the ATF yourself. It all pisses me off greatly.

If you're looking for something you can maintain yourself top to bottom, here's my suggestion for types of cars to look for. Remember: ALWAYS check the frame for rust before buying older cars. Unless you know how to weld and feel like rebuilding your own frame the vehicle will become useless the second any part of the frame separates.

1970-1983 Jeep CJ-5/CJ-7 - Engines are dead simple, manual transmission and 4WD are very easy to service.
1969-1989 Chevrolet C/K Pickup - My personal favorite. Cheap parts. 4WD can be added easily, carburetor, extremely easy to work on.
1973-1987 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 - These engines are damn near bullet proof and still easy to work on. parts are very easy to find.
1983-1997 Ford Ranger - Also a top pick for me. carb in earlier models, very simple EFI in later. easy to work on and easy to find parts.

For all of these you will basically only need a basic socket set, wrenches, etc. A multimeter for testing wiring, and a can-do attitude.

Working on cars seems really intimidating, but that's a perception created by modern cars and the car companies. Working on vehicles that aren't computers on wheels is very easy and simple and extremely rewarding.
 
Sneeds said:
Kinda want to get an early 00’s German car to keep me wrenching and go slowly insane . I’m thinking a b5 Audi s4 with the 2.7 twin turbo that’s crammed inside the engine bay :ross::lossmanjack:
Click to expand...
Get an E39 5 Series or E46 3 Series Bimmer instead. It'll keep you on your toes as this is when BMW's enshittification journey began (a handful of plastic engine parts, VANOS trouble etc) but it won't send you to the poor house via the funny farm like an E60 or E90 will.

As an added bonus, A BMW isn't just a VW in a Hugo Boss suit.
 
The best part about owning a European car is looking up a repair video and the first result is always some slav from some shit hole eastern european country casually doing the most dangerous shit you've seen in your entire life without any acknowledgement.
 
Google.com said:
Why on earth did fucking Subaru design the car to throw up an OBD code EVERYTIME IT IS IN THE SHADE.
Click to expand...
Subarus are for women. Presumably it's so they'll constantly panic and bring the car into a dealership so Subaru can bilk lesbians for money. It's part of a RW strategy to deprive the LGBTQIP+ of their funds. So shhhhhhhh. Mum's the word.

Automotive Repair:

The Legendary Scotty Kilmer is your friend.

If you are a retarded kiwi:

Oil, brakes, filters, lightbulbs, and tire rotations are all simple to do and will save you money. Doing your own oil changes can save you $300-$500/yr and cost only about an hour of your life each year total to accomplish. Lube and tire shops are increasingly jeeted and I'm convinced that they often fuck up on purpose - because cousin jeet is waiting, rubbing his hands, at the dealership.

You should also buy a cheap code reading device off amazon for your make and model, so you can read out error codes like 'warning, car in shade.' Don't tell the mechanic you have a code reader. That way you can detect his lies if he says the 'car in shade' code means 'explosion imminent.'

Cars are like horses. Every rider knows how to take care of his horse; but he still has a veterinarian on speed dial, just like we still have mechanics.

You should know how to take care of your horse, but not be ashamed to call in the vet. Cars in general are increasingly, deliberately designed to be hard for the owner to fix.

If you are mechanically inclined but inexperienced:

If the problem requires you to remove heavy things with lifting devices, things in tight spaces that need specialized tools, things electrified, or things under tension/pressure, it is probably better to send it to the grease monkey. Unless you want to be a backyard mechanic. You may fuck something up. Throwing in a new battery and connecting the terminals in the wrong order, for example, might blow one of the computer chips in your car because it's been deliberately designed for that to happen, and then your attempt to save a few bucks has instead cost you $700. How old is the battery? If it blew out in just a year, that means your alternator is about fucked too. Did you know that? Do you want to know things like that?

However, if it's just a matter of removing a few components and putting in a new component. It will always be cheaper and less time for you to DIY. If the part failed at it's projected end of life (eg. a rubber belt after 70,000 miles) then you won't have to ask yourself things like 'but why did it break in the first place?' Things that fail early indicate deeper problems and require deeper mechanical knowledge. You may or may not decide that is worth your time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom