3-D Print General - Feeding Printers Filament

Have a Mars 2 Pro, was super excited for the Mars 3 but then Chitubox got a baddragon dildo up it's ass and locked it to their shitty software.

Found an amazing patreon for busts by the name FotisMint. Working on his Miles Spiderverse print now:

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Still some detailing left to do, as well as the base, but it is a gorgeous print.
 
I've been using an i3 mini I got as a gift to do some proper autistic stuff.

The print bed is tiny (100mm^3), but it is an interesting challenge to find ways to make big prints out of that.

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sorry for extreme levels of hobby newfagness, but i finally got to talk with my one good uncle who got into mini painting (he's trying to pass it on to me and i think it'd be neat to bond over a nice shared hobby since whenever we talk we have no idea what to say half the time) and one of the things that interested me about the general stuff he mentioned was being able to 3d print your own minis to paint.

i'm not really technologically inclined though and while i'd like to get into printing my own models or cool ones i find, beyond looking at suggested lists of beginner 3d printers, knowing resin is best for the tiny details from research, knowing resin needs to be washed and cured from research, and that the models need to be stl files, i'm still as clueless as a boomer about a lot of the actual maintenance of a 3d printer and how to make a good 3d model that will print well, any nuances to things like files and programs used, etc.

are there any good guides about 3d printer maintenance and how you go from cool blender sculpt to tweaking up the model so it's "compatible" with not imploding on itself when its printed that are layman-friendly?
 
Plate tetris is one of the joys of printing. I need to pick up an FDM for general prints that wouldn't make sense on a resin printer like terrain.
Terrain as in maps? I need a way to convert a topo map to a 3D surface.
 
Interior Map tiles, houses, furniture and the like.

For Maps there are a couple options, but they would be expensive and time consuming.
This is the fantasy/general terrain:

They are currently doing a kickstarter on mmf for more modern/scifi add ones with bunkers and such:

If you want to go cheaper: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-basic-terrain-set-battletech-magnetic-hex-tiles-171892
 
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sorry for extreme levels of hobby newfagness, but i finally got to talk with my one good uncle who got into mini painting (he's trying to pass it on to me and i think it'd be neat to bond over a nice shared hobby since whenever we talk we have no idea what to say half the time) and one of the things that interested me about the general stuff he mentioned was being able to 3d print your own minis to paint.

i'm not really technologically inclined though and while i'd like to get into printing my own models or cool ones i find, beyond looking at suggested lists of beginner 3d printers, knowing resin is best for the tiny details from research, knowing resin needs to be washed and cured from research, and that the models need to be stl files, i'm still as clueless as a boomer about a lot of the actual maintenance of a 3d printer and how to make a good 3d model that will print well, any nuances to things like files and programs used, etc.

are there any good guides about 3d printer maintenance and how you go from cool blender sculpt to tweaking up the model so it's "compatible" with not imploding on itself when its printed that are layman-friendly?
Maker’s Muse is a good channel that explains some of the basics of 3D printing, and I remember him making a video on posing MMD models (?) and converting them to something mostly printable.

If you want to get a printer for mini’s, you’ll want a resin printer. I’m not too familiar with them myself but they’re pretty well-established at this point.
 
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sorry for extreme levels of hobby newfagness, but i finally got to talk with my one good uncle who got into mini painting (he's trying to pass it on to me and i think it'd be neat to bond over a nice shared hobby since whenever we talk we have no idea what to say half the time) and one of the things that interested me about the general stuff he mentioned was being able to 3d print your own minis to paint.

i'm not really technologically inclined though and while i'd like to get into printing my own models or cool ones i find, beyond looking at suggested lists of beginner 3d printers, knowing resin is best for the tiny details from research, knowing resin needs to be washed and cured from research, and that the models need to be stl files, i'm still as clueless as a boomer about a lot of the actual maintenance of a 3d printer and how to make a good 3d model that will print well, any nuances to things like files and programs used, etc.

are there any good guides about 3d printer maintenance and how you go from cool blender sculpt to tweaking up the model so it's "compatible" with not imploding on itself when its printed that are layman-friendly?
Totally missed this one, plenty of advice here.

For Printer recommendation: Mars 2 pro easily. Good size build plate for minis, nice interface (Uses a Chitu board, so these will be mostly the same between machines though) and has been a reliable workhorse for me.

It's even $50 off right now.

Nearly all files you will find will be Stl files. There are various slicer programs you can use, Chitubox is the most basic and they are working on a pro version ($170/year!), Lychee is a personal favorite with a much cleaner interface but options locked behind pro ($30/year) and others like prussa slicer, which I haven't used.

Washing and curing you have a couple options. There are Wash and cure combo stations from various companies that cost ~$100-$125, you can buy UV lights in flashlight or nail curing form, or there is a big ol bright ball in the sky that will bombard you with it for about 12 hours a day. For washing, you can use IPA of 90% or higher, other solvents such as acetone, but I use Denatured Alcohol. Big can of it costs about $16 at box stores in the paint thinner section and has enough in it to fill my W&C station twice over. The best way to get rid of it after it's used up (Which takes quite a while) is get a big bowl and stick it outside in the sun. The solvent will dissipate and leave you with a brick of cured resin which you can just chuck away.

About Resin: Avoid the "Water Washable" stuff. It is highly misleading as it's still toxic so you don't want to pour it down the drain and takes a whole lot longer to evaporate. If you hollow your models, you also have to be really sure to stick a light up in the holes as I have had WW prints bow and crack.

For brands I recommend: for Display/light play pieces I use Sirayatech Fast resin (Around $35/L), if they need to have a strength you can mix in a bit of Tenacious ($65/L)

Places to get Files: Thingiverse (Which is usually free), Myminifactory and Patreon. The last two generally go hand in hand, where if you subscribe to the patreon for $~10/mo you get all the files on MMF for the next month and a 50% off code for months you've missed.

If you have any other questions, feel free to message me
 
Gonna shill for Klipper firmware real quick. If you like tinkering with your printer, it's a must-have.

My current printer is a heavily upgraded CR-10, with a SKR-1.4 mainboard, BLTouch, Hemera direct extruder, and a Raspberry Pi that runs Klipper and Octoprint. I also have a relay hooked up to allow the Pi to turn off the printer's PSU after a print's complete. The SKR-1.4 came with silent stepper drivers and I also replaced the shitty stock fans in the control box with Sunon Maglevs. I used to be able to hear it across my apartment but now it's dead silent in the adjacent room with the door open.

Currently working on rewiring the whole thing and adding drag chains to the X and Z axes... and mentally preparing myself to upgrade to an AC heated bed. 3D printer mods are a neverending expensive rabbit hole...

Ordered an Ender 3 Pro and I plan on printing upgrades for it, and other stuff as well.
A BLTouch sensor (or some other kind of auto bed leveling) is the first mod everyone should get. Bed levelling is fucking cancer and easily the worst part about 3D printing, a probe makes it pretty much trivial and WILL get you better first layers.
 
Gonna shill for Klipper firmware real quick. If you like tinkering with your printer, it's a must-have.

My current printer is a heavily upgraded CR-10, with a SKR-1.4 mainboard, BLTouch, Hemera direct extruder, and a Raspberry Pi that runs Klipper and Octoprint. I also have a relay hooked up to allow the Pi to turn off the printer's PSU after a print's complete. The SKR-1.4 came with silent stepper drivers and I also replaced the shitty stock fans in the control box with Sunon Maglevs. I used to be able to hear it across my apartment but now it's dead silent in the adjacent room with the door open.

Currently working on rewiring the whole thing and adding drag chains to the X and Z axes... and mentally preparing myself to upgrade to an AC heated bed. 3D printer mods are a neverending expensive rabbit hole...


A BLTouch sensor (or some other kind of auto bed leveling) is the first mod everyone should get. Bed levelling is fucking cancer and easily the worst part about 3D printing, a probe makes it pretty much trivial and WILL get you better first layers.
Already ordered BLTouch along with the printer.
 
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I think I just found a way to stick it to Lego for their past faggotry against the forum.
Probably wouldn't work for much other than novelty, unless you want to print them at 200-300% the size (which, to be fair, is itself a cool novelty). The reason Lego bricks work well and stick together for decades is due to the insane tolerances on their molding machines, which FDM printers can't possibly measure up to. If you just want to print minifigure weapons and accessories though a resin printer could probably get the job done.
 
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I've been watching Teaching Tech's videos on 3D printers, along with CHEP. Now I want to upgrade so many bloody things on my printer.
 
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Can Blender be used well for 3D printing (plastic puzzles and toys)? I know it is technically possible to send the files to a slicer, but I want to know if it is workable or unrealistically difficult. I have a tiny bit of experience with like Solidworks but if I can get away with using Blender I would.
 
Can Blender be used well for 3D printing (plastic puzzles and toys)? I know it is technically possible to send the files to a slicer, but I want to know if it is workable or unrealistically difficult. I have a tiny bit of experience with like Solidworks but if I can get away with using Blender I would.
Pretty sure Blender can export STL’s by default. As long as the geometry isn’t fucked, it should print.
 
Pretty sure Blender can export STL’s by default. As long as the geometry isn’t fucked, it should print.
I know that, I mean can it handle working with precise measurements and standardized sizes (ex. screws) like for engineering applications
 
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