3-D Print General - Feeding Printers Filament

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Thanks for reminding me. I missed all the previous discounts and it was at 97% when I got my order in. Time to put my Ender 5+ back together so I can sell it. It works but the upgraded control board just sits in the bottom of the printer.
 
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Didn't see this thread before. I'm gonna be a nigger for a moment and say that I had 9 3d printers before I got my X1C and after using my X1C I sold/donated the rest of my printers. The only printers I own now are Bambu, they are retard proof and turned 3D printers from specialized tools into appliances. I'm pretty proficient with 3D printers but I wanted to maximize my time printing vs messing around.

Also fuck Creality. The Q in Creality stands for quality. Ive owned 3 of their printers and they were the worst printers I've owned.

Don't mess with resin printers if you don't have a well ventilated garage. The resin is messy, temperamental, and will likely give you cancer if you raw dog it without gloves and PPE. You will also get allergic to the resin.

There is an instagrammer (@freyasfantasys) who makes coomer statues and her workplace is a biohazard, handling resin with her bare hands and no other PPE, letting supports pile up on every surface including her laundry pile, etc. She's become allergic to resin and breaks out in hives due to her actions. Be better than a coomer thot and keep your resin space organized. If you ever catch yourself being lax on safety precautions, immediately sell your printer or donate it to a school dedicated to serving the minority you hate most. 400 dollars lost now is nothing compared to what Dr. Shekelstein will charge you when you get cancer from playing with a carcinogenic polymer.

Do not start 3D printing expecting to make money from printing Patreon models. You will not. There are creators that have giant print farms who will steamroll you on Etsy/Tiktok/whatever. The only person who wins in selling Patreon models is the guy modelling. Focus on niche things or stake out social media to try to figure out the next flavor of the month. I made 1k selling Saint Javelin models to retards on Etsy after the Ukraine war broke out.
 
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Catch The Rainbow said:
Didn't see this thread before. I'm gonna be a nigger for a moment and say that I had 9 3d printers before I got my X1C and after using my X1C I sold/donated the rest of my printers. The only printers I own now are Bambu, they are retard proof and turned 3D printers from specialized tools into appliances. I'm pretty proficient with 3D printers but I wanted to maximize my time printing vs messing around.

Also fuck Creality. The Q in Creality stands for quality. Ive owned 3 of their printers and they were the worst printers I've owned.

Don't mess with resin printers if you don't have a well ventilated garage. The resin is messy, temperamental, and will likely give you cancer if you raw dog it without gloves and PPE. You will also get allergic to the resin.

There is an instagrammer (@freyasfantasys) who makes coomer statues and her workplace is a biohazard, handling resin with her bare hands and no other PPE, letting supports pile up on every surface including her laundry pile, etc. She's become allergic to resin and breaks out in hives due to her actions. Be better than a coomer thot and keep your resin space organized. If you ever catch yourself being lax on safety precautions, immediately sell your printer or donate it to a school dedicated to serving the minority you hate most. 400 dollars lost now is nothing compared to what Dr. Shekelstein will charge you when you get cancer from playing with a carcinogenic polymer.

Do not start 3D printing expecting to make money from printing Patreon models. You will not. There are creators that have giant print farms who will steamroll you on Etsy/Tiktok/whatever. The only person who wins in selling Patreon models is the guy modelling. Focus on niche things or stake out social media to try to figure out the next flavor of the month. I made 1k selling Saint Javelin models to retards on Etsy after the Ukraine war broke out.
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Opinions noted.
 
Well I solved the mystery behind the clicking and the funky frayed bits on my models: there was a clog in both the extruder and the nozzle. I had to take the the entire mechanism and clean the extruder by hand to solve it since it was located in an area where the little cleaning stick they give you can't reach, the nozzle was fairly easy and just needed a few pokes from the stick whilst the nozzle was hot. Now my prints buttery smooth with no major problems so far. That and now I have an extra extruder mechanism just in case that part of the printer gives up the ghost.

I also tested out the hairspray I picked up earlier on a Benchy test and good lord it's better than glue sticks by an insane margin. It holds onto prints like a pitbull on an obese toddler and pops off like a BPD whore.

Oh, and you know that Omniwrench I printed out? A friend of mine decided to play around with it and part of it broke off. Now I'll either have to reprint it, glue it back together, or find a different model to print. I'm probably going to glue it back together and give it to him whilst printing myself a better model, I noticed a detail that's off on the model and my autism compels me to despise it.

I tried printing a Large Body Heartless this afternoon and I noticed one really funky thing: portions of the arm near the "broken restraints" didn't print.
IMG_0039.jpeglarge_display_6e3181b3-4fe9-420e-b55a-233a357b9348.png
I'm not exactly sure what's causing the poor fucker to lose its wrists during the printing process. The print was done in Creality Print with no issues popping up during slicing but Orcaslicer kind of went apeshit and brought up non-manifold edges. I ran the model through MeshLab to correct those and I hope that fixed it. If not, I'll just print some Shadow Heartless with the new PLA Silk filaments (I got metallic black-to-purple and black-to-red filament) I picked up this weekend.
 
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Archeops said:
I also tested out the hairspray I picked up earlier on a Benchy test and good lord it's better than glue sticks by an insane margin. It holds onto prints like a pitbull on an obese toddler and pops off like a BPD whore.
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Yeah once you go hairspray you never go back. Incredibly easy and quick to apply, and I just put my plate in the dishwasher when I need to clean off the built up layers.
 
Archeops said:
I also tested out the hairspray I picked up earlier on a Benchy test and good lord it's better than glue sticks by an insane margin. It holds onto prints like a pitbull on an obese toddler and pops off like a BPD whore.
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Can you explain what you're using the hairspray for?
 
Halloween is still months away still, but I want to be prepared, so it’s time to start mass printing Aztec death whistles. The plan is to scare random teenagers, and then bestow upon them their own whistle to recruit them. I will not rest until my neighbourhood becomes a choir of deathly screams.
 
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Scratch that, the stringing is happening again even after replacing the extruder. I took the nozzle out and it’s really clogged, so much so that the included cleaning rod isn’t doing much.

I ordered a couple of nozzles and a more thorough cleaning kit, we’ll see if this problem actually gets fixed this Saturday.
anustart76 said:
Can you explain what you're using the hairspray for?
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It’s an alternative to the glue stick you usually get with a 3D printer, you basically spray some into a cloth and rub it onto your print sheet and that provides an adhesive surface.
Blasterisk said:
If you are using PLA try a $9 Weller soldering iron, you can just weld it back together.
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I did some research on what to use on PLA and superglue was recommended for seamless repairs, a soldering iron or 3D pen works if you’re fine using unused PLA filament.
 
Archeops said:
I did some research on what to use on PLA and superglue was recommended for seamless repairs, a soldering iron or 3D pen works if you’re fine using unused PLA filament.
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Superglue sucks and it'll break again, but you do you.
 
Archeops said:
Scratch that, the stringing is happening again even after replacing the extruder. I took the nozzle out and it’s really clogged, so much so that the included cleaning rod isn’t doing much.

I ordered a couple of nozzles and a more thorough cleaning kit, we’ll see if this problem actually gets fixed this Saturday.
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That's really strange you're having that problem with PLA since that plastic is usually the easiest to print with. Have you change your print settings to see if that will help? What slicer are you using?
 
I've heard the K1s (and really any enclosed printer without active cooling) can have issues with pla if you keep it buttoned up. You end up preheating the pla, causing clogs in the extruder.
 
Just Some Other Guy said:
Are you printing pla fully enclosed?
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Just Some Other Guy said:
I've heard the K1s (and really any enclosed printer without active cooling) can have issues with pla if you keep it buttoned up. You end up preheating the pla, causing clogs in the extruder.
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I was, I assumed that I did some research and I realized that I made a horrible mistake. Thankfully it’s just the nozzle that was fucked, I ran some filament through the hot end while the printer was off and AFAICT there are no clogs in there.

Another odd thing I’ve noticed is that some of the support trees on my prints would come loose during the printing process. I’m not sure if it’s from poor bed adhesion, poor support structure, or some other thing but it something I’ll have to address when I get the printer up and running again.
Car Won't Crank said:
That's really strange you're having that problem with PLA since that plastic is usually the easiest to print with. Have you change your print settings to see if that will help? What slicer are you using?
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That’s something I’m planning on lookin into, I’ve heard that the side fan settings can be a problem on some prints.

As far as which slicer I’m working with I’m using Orca, other good ones people have suggested don’t have a prebuilt setting for the K1 line of printers yet.
 
Archeops said:
I was, I assumed that I did some research and I realized that I made a horrible mistake. Thankfully it’s just the nozzle that was fucked, I ran some filament through the hot end while the printer was off and AFAICT there are no clogs in there.

Another odd thing I’ve noticed is that some of the support trees on my prints would come loose during the printing process. I’m not sure if it’s from poor bed adhesion, poor support structure, or some other thing but it something I’ll have to address when I get the printer up and running again.

That’s something I’m planning on lookin into, I’ve heard that the side fan settings can be a problem on some prints.

As far as which slicer I’m working with I’m using Orca, other good ones people have suggested don’t have a prebuilt setting for the K1 line of printers yet.
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Have you run calibration, especially the one for extrusion percentage.
 
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davids877 said:
Have you run calibration, especially the one for extrusion percentage.
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I do a calibration run before each print to be on the safe side but I don’t think that’s covered in the pre-build option, I’ll have to dig deeper into the machine’s settings to see if it’s there.
 
Archeops said:
I do a calibration run before each print to be on the safe side but I don’t think that’s covered in the pre-build option, I’ll have to dig deeper into the machine’s settings to see if it’s there.
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That's usually just leveling. There's a bunch of other calibrations.

One you extrude 100mm of filament and make sure it really extruded 100mm, if not then you adjust the E steps on the controller. For a modern printer this should be fine and not need adjustment.


The other is to print a 1 layer thick cube in vase mode and measure the walls(you do have a set of digital calipers, right?) This is the extrusion multiplier adjustment when you compare the actual wall to the expected walls.

For some reason both of mine seem to like about 92%, but this is variable on filament diameter, exact nozzle diameter, etc.


Others which are more common for cheaper or build it yourself or when you swap a controller include measuring a printed cube in each dimension and verifying it matches the expected size and similar checks.

These may not be correct guides for your slicer and printer, but should give you search terms to start.
 
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