3-D Print General - Feeding Printers Filament

I know that, I mean can it handle working with precise measurements and standardized sizes (ex. screws) like for engineering applications
Fusion 360 is free for personal use last time I checked. You can import drawings of almost everything in the Mcmaster-Carr catalogue from their website into it. AvE printed something that was metal as a temporary fix a few early this year. I can't for the life of me remember what it was.
 
I know that, I mean can it handle working with precise measurements and standardized sizes (ex. screws) like for engineering applications
Clough42 on YouTube does a bunch of modeling in fusion3d doing precise work and his workflow. Doing test prints to find out shrinkage and stuff as well.
 
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Fusion 360 is free for personal use last time I checked. You can import drawings of almost everything in the Mcmaster-Carr catalogue from their website into it. AvE printed something that was metal as a temporary fix a few early this year. I can't for the life of me remember what it was.
It was a gear. And yes that is an old hack.

Be aware that there are some limitations the Fusion360 places on the free version however I believe they are mostly the number of files active and the 4th and 5th axis CAM stuff is disabled.
 
Are there any good guides on leveling the print bed?
There’s not much to it, just move the nozzle over your levelling screws and use a sticky note (or, ideally, a metal feeler gauge) and tighten/loosen the levelling screw until you feel just a tiny bit of friction when you slide the sticky note back and forth.

After the levelling screws are properly set, you can also do mesh bed leveling if your firmware supports it, but it’s kind of a pain in the ass to do normally.
 
I know that, I mean can it handle working with precise measurements and standardized sizes (ex. screws) like for engineering applications
Kind off... Using the CAD transformer addon for Blender you can make precise measurments but that requires you to tinker a lot and its clunky and not that intutive. Your far better of learning actual CAD software.

Solidworks is easy to pirate if you don't want to pay for it and is pretty much industry standard.
The Autocad suite has always have an extensive student trial program, Inventor and fusion works like a dream.
Then there is always freecad but that one almost makes me nascious.
 
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Anyone know how long resin lasts? I bought a resin printer just before covid, then covid altered my life pretty dramatically and it's been sitting in storage for over two years. I have a few bottles of untouched resin. Will they still be usable?
 
Anyone know how long resin lasts? I bought a resin printer just before covid, then covid altered my life pretty dramatically and it's been sitting in storage for over two years. I have a few bottles of untouched resin. Will they still be usable?
I've heard it has a shelf life of about a year or so
 
I had resin in the vat unused for about 6 months. Spent a few minutes really mixing it (be sure to get the layer of white residue mixed in well) and fired it up. Printed as perfect as it did months ago.

I imagine your bottles resin will be fine. Just mix it up.
 
Sorry to necro this thread so severely, but I've recently been offered a Mars 3 (Non-pro) for around £100, along with some Resin and spare LCDs. As far as I know this is strictly "Worth the money", but I am wondering how accurate the Mars 3 can be. I'm hoping to use it for printing miniatures for myself, so I'm hoping that it's high-fidelity enough that I'll be able to print to whatever detail level I'd like.

I've seen reviews that talk about the pixel density of the LCD, but I'm not sure how that actually translates in practice to the quality of my prints. Any advice?

Thanks.
 
Sorry to necro this thread so severely, but I've recently been offered a Mars 3 (Non-pro) for around £100, along with some Resin and spare LCDs. As far as I know this is strictly "Worth the money", but I am wondering how accurate the Mars 3 can be. I'm hoping to use it for printing miniatures for myself, so I'm hoping that it's high-fidelity enough that I'll be able to print to whatever detail level I'd like.

I've seen reviews that talk about the pixel density of the LCD, but I'm not sure how that actually translates in practice to the quality of my prints. Any advice?

Thanks.
I'm not really sure about that, hopefully someone else can answer about pixel resolution.

But one important thing to note is that calibration has a big effect too. It might come out really foggy the first print, but become sharp after you mess around with calibration enough. So even if it does start at poor quality, don't necessarily assume it's because of the model. Run a quick Calibration Matrix over and over till you get it good as you can with your resin/machine combo. Temperature can also have an impact sometimes: most resin prefers 25-30c in my experience. Room temperature in warm countries like Arizona or Australia are fine, If you live in a cold place you might want to warm the room up first. Or print it with a blanket over it.
 
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Sorry to necro this thread so severely, but I've recently been offered a Mars 3 (Non-pro) for around £100, along with some Resin and spare LCDs. As far as I know this is strictly "Worth the money", but I am wondering how accurate the Mars 3 can be. I'm hoping to use it for printing miniatures for myself, so I'm hoping that it's high-fidelity enough that I'll be able to print to whatever detail level I'd like.

I've seen reviews that talk about the pixel density of the LCD, but I'm not sure how that actually translates in practice to the quality of my prints. Any advice?

Thanks.
There is never a wrong time to necro good threads. Not really an expert on Resin printers, but that sounds like a great deal and should work for your purposes.
The pixel density is important because the resin gets hardened by the light of the LCD (or rather the light the LCD lets through),
so every pixel creates a tiny block of hardened resin that together make up the print, kinda like how voxels work in video games. Just really tiny.
Afaik the Mars 3 should work very well for tiny details as each of these "blocks" will be around 35 microns or 0.035mm (0,00137 Inch)
By comparison, the average fingerprint groove is 0.2-0.8mm. A human hair is around 0.07mm. The nozzle of a standard FDM printer is 0.4mm.
At that point the thickness of whatever paint and primer you use will become more detail limiting than the printer.

Also, since you seem like a beginner, let me give you some basic extra tips to get started:

Keep in mind you also need some kinda curing and washing set-up, since the freshly "printed" prints will be covered in resin and soft/fragile until washed and "cured".
Curing is basically just a UV lamp that blasts the print so that it is properly hardened all the way through.
There are kits for this that are somewhat pricey but less annoying than DIY solutions.
That being said, DIY seems to work just fine if you are careful and is way cheaper since you basically only need a tub of isoprop alcohol and a UV lamp.

This tutorial goes into some DIY methods for post-print work. As you can probably imagine, there are many ways to deal with this.

Also, some notes on safety:
Get at least gloves and possibly some basic safety glasses and work cleanly.
Most resins are pretty nasty chemicals and certainly very unhealthy to have on your skin. Wash any off immediately if it does happen.
And be careful fucking around with UV light as this stuff is kinda cancer causing and eye-damaging.
Also, a tub of isoprop and the fumes it produces are/is highly flammable and should be handled with care.

This is more of a general beginner guide, but also worth watching to get a good overview on what this hobby entails.

Altogether resin stuff is not the end of the world, but a bit more involved than the "Pull of buildplate and done" that you may know from FDM printers.
 
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Other things to consider:
Avoid Water Washable Resin like the plague, it is no less toxic than normal resin and does not clean as well. If you are having issues finding 90% IPA, I always picked up Denatured Alcohol from the paint thinner section of a box store.

Depending on the types of mini's you are looking to print, myminifactory has a lot of great artists making figures every month. If you subscribe to their patreon's, you get the whole set cheaper as well.
 
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Thank you for the informations, I picked the printer up from the guy earlier on today, and will be looking at fiddling with it in the new year (as I'm somewhat indisposed at the moment). Ill see if i can post some exemplar models when I get everything calibrated.

Two small questions I had, however: the first is about how loud a mars3 typically is in operation, and the second is whether it gives off dangerous fumes while printing? I've seen people devising extractor hoods for their printers, but I didn't expect it to be giving off a ton of waste gases while operating. I mostly want to know as I was going to set It up in an antechamber outside my room, and wasn't sure if it would disturb others while it works.
 
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I'm not 100% sure of the Mars 3, but my Mars 2 has a pretty heady fan drone while it is operating. As for Fumes, it depends on the resin you use but wouldn't be a bad idea to have a window cracked until you know how it affects you.
 
Is there a reliable way to make a small side gig off 3D printing, maybe subcontracting to make parts, without an overly massive investment in time and money?

I'm not trying to be the 3D printing Elon Musk but if I could make even a couple hundred a month it would be some badly-needed extra dough.
 
Is there a reliable way to make a small side gig off 3D printing, maybe subcontracting to make parts, without an overly massive investment in time and money?

I'm not trying to be the 3D printing Elon Musk but if I could make even a couple hundred a month it would be some badly-needed extra dough.
TL;DR- No.
There are already dozens of 'professional' prototyping labs that will do 3dprinting/SLS/Sintering/etc on machines that are 100x higher quality than your Prusa/Creality. Plus they have legal teams that sign NDAs and are able to give receipts, so the customer can take it off the development expenses.
These machines start at ~$70k and require professionals to operate and maintain. Thousands in annual PM cost.

Ripping off friends and family within your own circles? YES! But you don't need a CR-10 to do that. Just setup a Patreon or GoFundMe.

I just went through an experience with an old Stratasys Fortus that I got /FOR FREE/. The parts required for restoration STARTED at over $5000. Technician visits cost $250/hr plus expenses and dispatch fee. Think about that cost. The extruder tube 'liquifier' was over $40 - for a 2" tube-1.75mm. That's just the tip of the iceberg.
Every print uses an $8 consumable platform and the filament is in CARTRIDGES that cost $400 A PIECE.
$400 FOR 1 KG OF ABS FILAMENT!
I have seen spools of ABS on Amazon for $8- $10, now that PLA+ is the hot tomato.
Hell, I got some shit-tier PLA for $12 on amazon.

I ended up stripping the Fortus for consumables, and donating it to another sucker ermm FRIEND.

God Bless the Chinese. I dropped $500 on a POS printer and have already had more than that in entertainment value.
Creality makes the WORST GUI. Also, I am extremely suspicious of the leveling.
However, it's unbelievably CHEAP. I literally bought it with 'survey money'. I can honestly say I personally spent less than $100.
 
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