3-D Print General - Feeding Printers Filament

TL;DR- No.
There are already dozens of 'professional' prototyping labs that will do 3dprinting/SLS/Sintering/etc on machines that are 100x higher quality than your Prusa/Creality. Plus they have legal teams that sign NDAs and are able to give receipts, so the customer can take it off the development expenses.
These machines start at ~$70k and require professionals to operate and maintain. Thousands in annual PM cost.

Ripping off friends and family within your own circles? YES! But you don't need a CR-10 to do that. Just setup a Patreon or GoFundMe.

I just went through an experience with an old Stratasys Fortus that I got /FOR FREE/. The parts required for restoration STARTED at over $5000. Technician visits cost $250/hr plus expenses and dispatch fee. Think about that cost. The extruder tube 'liquifier' was over $40 - for a 2" tube-1.75mm. That's just the tip of the iceberg.
Every print uses an $8 consumable platform and the filament is in CARTRIDGES that cost $400 A PIECE.
$400 FOR 1 KG OF ABS FILAMENT!
I have seen spools of ABS on Amazon for $8- $10, now that PLA+ is the hot tomato.
Hell, I got some shit-tier PLA for $12 on amazon.

I ended up stripping the Fortus for consumables, and donating it to another sucker ermm FRIEND.

God Bless the Chinese. I dropped $500 on a POS printer and have already had more than that in entertainment value.
Creality makes the WORST GUI. Also, I am extremely suspicious of the leveling.
However, it's unbelievably CHEAP. I literally bought it with 'survey money'. I can honestly say I personally spent less than $100.

God fucking forbid someone enjoys a hobby printing their own models right glownigger?

I finally got around to replacing the broken fan on my printer and got a CR touch because it came with replacement nozzles. Not fucking around with buck convertors so I just kept the noctua fan in the box and used the UY connectors it came with to connect a replacement standard fan I got just in case to the already existing connection instead of whatever fuckery most 3D printing sources will sperg incessantly about.

That is literally All I had to do. Cut the broken fan’s wiring and connect it to the new fans wiring via 2 UY connectors Then mount it. Not solder half the fucking motherboard like most tards claim you NEED to do at all costs.

There isn’t much coherent info on installing the CR touch besides some autistic grumbling about a z axis differential and it doesnt really do anything. Something about a G29 line in slicer software and then these niggers go into their rants about wanting me to rewire the entire god damn neighborhood’s electrical grid like some faggot shilling pointless switch accessories and moaning about the “joycon drift” while actively avoiding any game recommendations.
 
God fucking forbid someone enjoys a hobby printing their own models right glownigger?

I finally got around to replacing the broken fan on my printer and got a CR touch because it came with replacement nozzles. Not fucking around with buck convertors so I just kept the noctua fan in the box and used the UY connectors it came with to connect a replacement standard fan I got just in case to the already existing connection instead of whatever fuckery most 3D printing sources will sperg incessantly about.

That is literally All I had to do. Cut the broken fan’s wiring and connect it to the new fans wiring via 2 UY connectors Then mount it. Not solder half the fucking motherboard like most tards claim you NEED to do at all costs.

There isn’t much coherent info on installing the CR touch besides some autistic grumbling about a z axis differential and it doesnt really do anything. Something about a G29 line in slicer software and then these niggers go into their rants about wanting me to rewire the entire god damn neighborhood’s electrical grid like some faggot shilling pointless switch accessories and moaning about the “joycon drift” while actively avoiding any game recommendations.
Print your own models all you want. But don't lie to yourself like every Etsy faggot and say "I'm an Entrepreneur!"
Nobody is paying for their $100MM prototype to be printed on a $400 chinese POS.
BUT you can print all the WH40k figs you like... Have fun, it's not a job...

I got an Ender6 - So it actually has a BL Touch mount inside the head - and a terminal on the daughter board.
I had bad luck with my BL Touch - so back it went. Dead in <20 days. CR Touch has been holding out, BUT it did lose it's shit during a LONG aligning session. Nozzle was 200'C, and I was trying to calibrate for the 5th time....
Troubling melt marks on the CR Touch external case...

My observations on Ender and the BL/CR Touch: It makes a _relative_ map of the surface. You still NEED to set your own Z-Axis differential (good ol sheet of paper). Also, replacing the springs with silicone did very little. Not worth the hassle.
 
Print your own models all you want. But don't lie to yourself like every Etsy faggot and say "I'm an Entrepreneur!"
Nobody is paying for their $100MM prototype to be printed on a $400 chinese POS.
BUT you can print all the WH40k figs you like... Have fun, it's not a job...

I got an Ender6 - So it actually has a BL Touch mount inside the head - and a terminal on the daughter board.
I had bad luck with my BL Touch - so back it went. Dead in <20 days. CR Touch has been holding out, BUT it did lose it's shit during a LONG aligning session. Nozzle was 200'C, and I was trying to calibrate for the 5th time....
Troubling melt marks on the CR Touch external case...

My observations on Ender and the BL/CR Touch: It makes a _relative_ map of the surface. You still NEED to set your own Z-Axis differential (good ol sheet of paper). Also, replacing the springs with silicone did very little. Not worth the hassle.

Yeah that's what I meant. You aren't wrong. The Ender 5 Pro is a chinese POS but mostly due to the 1 sided support of the print bed so that initial layer will not even make contact with the bed all the way up. Even got a glass bed for it this year and adjusted slicer temps for it. It looks really haphazard with the generic clips it comes with, as most chinkshit is, but the bed itself is heavy enough that its not going to move anyway and the clips are just there.

I did calculate the Z axis differential and manually eyed the springs and the nozzle with a piece of paper on all 4 corners and the middle but there's no option to manually change it on the latest merlin firmware for it. Its mounted outside of the fan cover on the older Ender models. The LED went from red to purple after installing the firmware and a simple internet search did not tell me what either meant. Of course the manual didnt either. Just a ton of redirects to reddit and we all know how "helpful" redditors are. The BL touch menu just outright doesn't have that option to change the Z axis differential, or its buried somewhere in a nonsensical section of the UI like Hot End Temperatures, since I was using tutorials that were made a few years ago.

Its also strange that all 4 corners can be perfect but the middle will have a noticeably large gap of a few mm between the bed and the nozzle even after installing the glass bed. Of course raising all 4 dials equally just fucks up all 4 corners. I had used "Make with tech"'s bed leveling program that had consistently worked before for a while to help make the adjustments. It used to be uniform for about a year and haven't been able to get anything to stick to the clean bed since.
 
Print your own models all you want. But don't lie to yourself like every Etsy faggot and say "I'm an Entrepreneur!"
Dude, Etsy people make bank selling these models at like $50 for 10 to normies. People could just find the STLs themselves and print them for a fraction of the price, but they don't because most people aren't even aware that's a possible option.

I've seen fuckers spend like $400 to order a bunch of Etsy models from an overseas seller, when they could have just bought an entire printer and printed them locally for that money.
 
Yeah that's what I meant. You aren't wrong. The Ender 5 Pro is a chinese POS but mostly due to the 1 sided support of the print bed so that initial layer will not even make contact with the bed all the way up. Even got a glass bed for it this year and adjusted slicer temps for it. It looks really haphazard with the generic clips it comes with, as most chinkshit is, but the bed itself is heavy enough that its not going to move anyway and the clips are just there.

I did calculate the Z axis differential and manually eyed the springs and the nozzle with a piece of paper on all 4 corners and the middle but there's no option to manually change it on the latest merlin firmware for it. Its mounted outside of the fan cover on the older Ender models. The LED went from red to purple after installing the firmware and a simple internet search did not tell me what either meant. Of course the manual didnt either. Just a ton of redirects to reddit and we all know how "helpful" redditors are. The BL touch menu just outright doesn't have that option to change the Z axis differential, or its buried somewhere in a nonsensical section of the UI like Hot End Temperatures, since I was using tutorials that were made a few years ago.

Its also strange that all 4 corners can be perfect but the middle will have a noticeably large gap of a few mm between the bed and the nozzle even after installing the glass bed. Of course raising all 4 dials equally just fucks up all 4 corners. I had used "Make with tech"'s bed leveling program that had consistently worked before for a while to help make the adjustments. It used to be uniform for about a year and haven't been able to get anything to stick to the clean bed since.
Dude, I have had issues WAY worse than that. To this day I have all 4 corners low by 0.1mm, but the center high by 0.1mm.
Its a headscratcher. I blame the removal of the glass and replacement with a chinese magnetic flex steel.

Overall, I am really happy, though. I can walk away and say: "Had a lot of fun for less than a night drinking on the town."

Dude, Etsy people make bank selling these models at like $50 for 10 to normies. People could just find the STLs themselves and print them for a fraction of the price, but they don't because most people aren't even aware that's a possible option.

I've seen fuckers spend like $400 to order a bunch of Etsy models from an overseas seller, when they could have just bought an entire printer and printed them locally for that money.
Color me fucking shocked. I didn't know WH fags could be THAT lazy. TBH, those fucking figures are tough prints. I think a decent 0.2mm nozzle and 30min of leveling is a must.

My tip of the day: Buy a bottle of Nano Polymer Adhesive by Vision Miner. It's on Amazon. No, I'm not paid by them.
Those fuckers hit on something. Shit holds like a weld. $45, but worth every cent. I have gotten 80+ builds and I am less than 1/3rd through the bottle.
 
Right, yeah. That deal on that Mars 3 was really, really good assuming it works good. I got one for $180 and that was considered a steal. As for miniature quality, a lot of people are over concerned with this. Even the OG Mars with it's terrible rgb screen printed miniatures that were second only to the real deal. I guarantee 99.9% of the people that worry about pixel size don't even paint good enough for it to ever matter.

Screen size is an entirely different matter. I went from having to print a leman russ in 4 different pieces on the OG 5.5" mars, to being able to print the tracks and hull as all one piece on a 8.9" Epax/Saturn. I hoipe to upgrade the screen to the 10", then I can probably add some tilt for better finish quality.

As for resin, most will do just fine. I started with only $35+ siraya tech stuff. Then tried some $20 sunlu, and finally just recently got a screaming deal on anycubic "eco" whatever for $5/kg on amazon. They all print the same quality as long as you CALIBRATE. Always, always calibrate and dial your settings in for each brand, and probably color, resin you use.

Now, take that resin printer and copyright infringe to the extreme! Oh, and be sure to laugh at what FDM-exclusive people try to pass off as "great".
 
Right, yeah. That deal on that Mars 3 was really, really good assuming it works good. I got one for $180 and that was considered a steal. As for miniature quality, a lot of people are over concerned with this. Even the OG Mars with it's terrible rgb screen printed miniatures that were second only to the real deal. I guarantee 99.9% of the people that worry about pixel size don't even paint good enough for it to ever matter.

Screen size is an entirely different matter. I went from having to print a leman russ in 4 different pieces on the OG 5.5" mars, to being able to print the tracks and hull as all one piece on a 8.9" Epax/Saturn. I hoipe to upgrade the screen to the 10", then I can probably add some tilt for better finish quality.

As for resin, most will do just fine. I started with only $35+ siraya tech stuff. Then tried some $20 sunlu, and finally just recently got a screaming deal on anycubic "eco" whatever for $5/kg on amazon. They all print the same quality as long as you CALIBRATE. Always, always calibrate and dial your settings in for each brand, and probably color, resin you use.

Now, take that resin printer and copyright infringe to the extreme! Oh, and be sure to laugh at what FDM-exclusive people try to pass off as "great".
What I got from this post: Don't bother printing miniatures with FDM...

I'm ignorant re: SLS, but thanks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scout Trooper
What I got from this post: Don't bother printing miniatures with FDM...

I'm ignorant re: SLS, but thanks.
I mean hey, everyone is free to do what they want, but miniatures have never been good on fdm.

I remember back in ye olde early days of printed 40k and people showing off their perfectly dialed in 0.1mm prints. Shoot, my 1st printer, a tevo tarantula, printed some stuff I was like "wow, with some paint and stuff this would look pretty good".

Then I got a Mars 1 and I was like "wow, I was so ignorant". Really is mind blowing what resin can produce. Hell, probably even faster than most fdm printers too. It's great that adding more things to the plate on a resin printer doesn't add more time, only if you add layers. 1 guy takes as much time as 20 guys.

I'm not hating on fdm. I have 2 Aquilas. Each have their strengths. Being exclusive to either is really limiting yourself on printing. Play with both.
 
Depends on the terrain. Resin will still put out better quality, and the build sizes are up there. Monochrome screens have really cut down on the print time, too. I'd have zero qualms busting out some "gothic ruins" on my Epax E10.

I'd say filament is for 3 things: sheer build size per dollar, the actual material (there are some things that plastic is just better at than resin, not to mention stuff like TPU), and for the people that feel the need to call poison control if they happen to come across a stray drop of uncured resin in the same room as them.
 
Is there a reliable way to make a small side gig off 3D printing, maybe subcontracting to make parts, without an overly massive investment in time and money?

I'm not trying to be the 3D printing Elon Musk but if I could make even a couple hundred a month it would be some badly-needed extra dough.
Yes. If you have some basic drafting and printing skills.

If you have any kind of industrial blue collar connections then most of those boomers are super impressed by basic 3d printing. Stuff always breaks in manufacturing and some parts are really hard to source or to make out of steel. I have made a couple of bucks making sensor mounts and various kind of spare parts for welding machines. The more educated techincal folk are not worth approaching tough most engineers worth their salt have invested in that kind of tech ages ago. But the tradies you can make a pretty penny off by selling battery mounts for their vans and the like.
 
Right, yeah. That deal on that Mars 3 was really, really good assuming it works good. I got one for $180 and that was considered a steal. As for miniature quality, a lot of people are over concerned with this. Even the OG Mars with it's terrible rgb screen printed miniatures that were second only to the real deal. I guarantee 99.9% of the people that worry about pixel size don't even paint good enough for it to ever matter.

Screen size is an entirely different matter. I went from having to print a leman russ in 4 different pieces on the OG 5.5" mars, to being able to print the tracks and hull as all one piece on a 8.9" Epax/Saturn. I hoipe to upgrade the screen to the 10", then I can probably add some tilt for better finish quality.

As for resin, most will do just fine. I started with only $35+ siraya tech stuff. Then tried some $20 sunlu, and finally just recently got a screaming deal on anycubic "eco" whatever for $5/kg on amazon. They all print the same quality as long as you CALIBRATE. Always, always calibrate and dial your settings in for each brand, and probably color, resin you use.

Now, take that resin printer and copyright infringe to the extreme! Oh, and be sure to laugh at what FDM-exclusive people try to pass off as "great".

I still havent had chance to test the thing yet, but I'm pretty confident that It works perfectly well. The guy is a regular at the local games store, and he gave me a ton of extra bits and bobs along with the thing for some reason (two extra resin reservoirs, an extra build plate, and bric-a-brac like filters/plastic film, gloves, resin, etc) so if he's tried to scam me he's been a bit of a daftie given that I can likely sell this for parts for around the same price.

Vis-a-vis still being a NoPrints; I still need to get some Isopropyl Alcohol (Or Acetone, apparently... Though the former is probably better with my limited ventilation) and a cure station. Has anyone got any advice on Cure stations? I'd honestly be willing to DiY one if that would be around as effective as a storebought example, though I do need to know a little more about the subject.

I need to try and get this done within the month, as I need to get a Bretonnian warband printed for an upcoming Mordheim campaign.


On resin: Surely there are meaningful differences between different resin? There was a calibration print in the bottom of the box of stuff I got with my printer which was printed with the same resin that I recieved with the package, and it's extremely flexible, a little brittle in the smaller parts, and mars very readily with a fingernail... Though perhaps that's simply because it wasnt subsequently cured fully? I guess you don't really need to "finish" a test print.

I remember back in ye olde early days of printed 40k and people showing off their perfectly dialed in 0.1mm prints. Shoot, my 1st printer, a tevo tarantula, printed some stuff I was like "wow, with some paint and stuff this would look pretty good".

Then I got a Mars 1 and I was like "wow, I was so ignorant". Really is mind blowing what resin can produce. Hell, probably even faster than most fdm printers too. It's great that adding more things to the plate on a resin printer doesn't add more time, only if you add layers. 1 guy takes as much time as 20 guys.

Hah, I remember when FDM stuff was first being posited as a viable method of creating your own models, and the 0.1mm layers really, really put me off as I'm an autistic perfectionist. How far the tech has come in basically no time at all is absolutely astounding.

I think FDM printers probably still have the advantage with regards to robustness of prints, though I haven't done any research on the material properties of ABS/PLA resins vs filament.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scout Trooper
I still havent had chance to test the thing yet, but I'm pretty confident that It works perfectly well. The guy is a regular at the local games store, and he gave me a ton of extra bits and bobs along with the thing for some reason (two extra resin reservoirs, an extra build plate, and bric-a-brac like filters/plastic film, gloves, resin, etc) so if he's tried to scam me he's been a bit of a daftie given that I can likely sell this for parts for around the same price.

Vis-a-vis still being a NoPrints; I still need to get some Isopropyl Alcohol (Or Acetone, apparently... Though the former is probably better with my limited ventilation) and a cure station. Has anyone got any advice on Cure stations? I'd honestly be willing to DiY one if that would be around as effective as a storebought example, though I do need to know a little more about the subject.

I need to try and get this done within the month, as I need to get a Bretonnian warband printed for an upcoming Mordheim campaign.


On resin: Surely there are meaningful differences between different resin? There was a calibration print in the bottom of the box of stuff I got with my printer which was printed with the same resin that I recieved with the package, and it's extremely flexible, a little brittle in the smaller parts, and mars very readily with a fingernail... Though perhaps that's simply because it wasnt subsequently cured fully? I guess you don't really need to "finish" a test print.



Hah, I remember when FDM stuff was first being posited as a viable method of creating your own models, and the 0.1mm layers really, really put me off as I'm an autistic perfectionist. How far the tech has come in basically no time at all is absolutely astounding.

I think FDM printers probably still have the advantage with regards to robustness of prints, though I haven't done any research on the material properties of ABS/PLA resins vs filament.
About the cure station, if you can get one, especially a wash+cure station, that's optimal. I have a Creality UW-02, which was cheap for what it is (at least when I got it, and considering at the time, the only brand of anything 3D printing present in my neck of the woods was Creality; slowly some more brands have started coming in, but my equipment and supplies are still all Creality, except for filaments).
Before I got it, I made do with a UV lamp and some tupperware wrapped in tin foil; or just the sun, when the weather allowed it. You can come up with reasonable DIY curing setups, so long as you have UV lights. I've seen pros work with just a cabinet, some mirrors, maybe some kind of rotating base (I've seen some that are sold to display cakes and pastries), and the lights. As for washing (always before curing), a big tupperware container with a good lid, full of isopropyl alcohol, the printed piece inside, and you shake it like you just don't care.

About resin: there's significant differences in resin, but mostly you gotta go through a lot of personal research to find what fits your needs. Most people will print resin for looks and detail, but here's a video of a guy who does airplane stuff that requires durability and heat resistance, and he goes into detail about the research he had to do to find a blend of resins that suited his needs, plus some other good info https://youtu.be/gb_I-9UZem0.

And yeah, FDM printing, particularly with ABS, is better suited for durability, but not for the level of detail you want for minis and such. I use mostly PLA, but that's because I mostly make toys for my kid, some nephews and other child relatives. That said, and I'm sure it was weird wording rather than a misconception, but there's no "ABS/PLA resins", ABS/PLA/TPU are filaments only, and resins are their own thing.
 
Last edited:
I'm a doubleposting fag, but it's to make sure you see it rather than it going unnoticed in an edit of the previous post:
About ventilation, see if you can get one of these:

You charge them via USB-C, and you put them in the printer/curing station. There's other brands too.
They help a lot if your ventilation conditions aren't ideal. But still, take all the necessary precautions.
 
So for washing and curing, I diy it. I use acetone. It works in seconds and dries super fast. Never had a finish problem with it.

I like to use 2 baths. 1st is a "dirty" wash, then I like to use a 2nd much cleaner wash. All you need is a plastic pantry storage container. WalMart sells ones that fit the whole Mars 3 build plate for like $10

Get some nice big rubber gloves.

For curing I originally used a diaper box lined with tin foil and a cheap UV light strip. Can usually find those for cheap on Amazon. Recently upgraded to a kallax unit from IKEA. My printers sit on top and I converted some of the upper cubes to curing stations. Same shit. Line with tin foil and a strip of UV lights.

I do have some 99% ipa to try out vs the acetone. A company on Amazon still sells 4 gallons of it for $70. The cheapest you're probably going to find it. Acetone used to be cheaper, but that has crept up to around $20/gal. This is assuming US shopping.

Shop around. I can vouch for acetone, but I hope the ipa works just as good. Would be easier to store and work with.
 
I'll say for the notion of printing as a business or side hustle that I've had an ad to the effect of "This is my printer, this is what parts look like off it, $X.00 per hour + $0.YZ per gram, send files to [emailaddress] to receive plastic garbage" on the local bulletin board for some months now. It hasn't made me a millionaire, but it's put some change back in the beer & smokes fund and kept the printer from collecting too much dust.

I can't really say it'd be worthwhile if you'd set out to sell printer hours from the start but if you're in the same boat as I was, if you've already bought a printer for personal use, had your fun, run out of crap to print and shoved it in a corner? Decent way to get back into using the machine while recouping some of your buy-in cost.

Also for SLA cleaning solvents, be sure to check for alcohol stove fuel. Hardware store near me sells a gallon of ethanol/isoprop mix for $45 leafland funbucks, I'd be pretty surprised if you can't get it cheaper in the states.
 
Wonder how they compare to a Voron. I know those are the hot shit atm.
Delta are the fastest. All 3 servos are 'helping' at the same time. CoreXY (most recent Voron project) printers are next - 2 servos assisting at the same time.
The rest are in varying states of slower - depending on duty cycle overlap with other axes.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Just Some Other Guy
Back