3-D Print General - Feeding Printers Filament

Wonder how they compare to a Voron. I know those are the hot shit atm.
I can say that my V400 will happily extrude at 400mm/sec while doing walls and infill with only moderate ghosting. The default profile in Cura limits its speed while doing top and bottom layers though and I haven't felt the need to push it.
 
Just wondering has anyone else updated their marlin firmware and suddenly the extruder is printing in reverse now?

Any time I go to look for a fix it is just retards sperging incessantly about fucking around with the extruder connectors. When it's a software problem that didn't happen until I updated my firmware. Is there a setting to extrude in reverse somewhere in the slicer?
 
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Just wondering has anyone else updated their marlin firmware and suddenly the extruder is printing in reverse now?

Any time I go to look for a fix it is just retards sperging incessantly about fucking around with the extruder connectors. When it's a software problem that didn't happen until I updated my firmware. Is there a setting to extrude in reverse somewhere in the slicer?
I have no help to offer but what do you mean in reverse? Like it mirrors things? or it tries to start at the top?
 
Just wondering has anyone else updated their marlin firmware and suddenly the extruder is printing in reverse now?

Any time I go to look for a fix it is just retards sperging incessantly about fucking around with the extruder connectors. When it's a software problem that didn't happen until I updated my firmware. Is there a setting to extrude in reverse somewhere in the slicer?
Is there any way to revert the software to a previous version? The printer I have can't connect to any networks (I have to shove a micro SD card into a USB adapter to upload any files to it) so I'd have to apply any updates manually. You may be able to find an older version of your printer's software floating around.

Also, I looked on Marlin's firmware page and there seems to be some patches. Have you tried installing any of those?
 
Just wondering has anyone else updated their marlin firmware and suddenly the extruder is printing in reverse now?

Any time I go to look for a fix it is just retards sperging incessantly about fucking around with the extruder connectors. When it's a software problem that didn't happen until I updated my firmware. Is there a setting to extrude in reverse somewhere in the slicer?
That probably happened because whomever made that firmware configured the motor responsible for moving the extruder wrongly (for your machine).
The proper way is to find another firmware. Ideally you build marlin yourself.
Thats kinda a pita though so:


Alternatively, you can try to send a G-Code to the printer. This is the easiest way unless you have another firmware ready.
This would require you to connect it to your computer with a USB cable and download something like Pronterface to control the printer.

To connect use the button at the top left that says connect. You may need to try different COM ports and rates (the number right of the port) to get it to connect.
You know it worked when the connect button now says "disconnect" and the text window on the right says "printer is now online".
For the next steps we need to use the text window to send commands to the printer.

After connecting to the machine you can send " M92 " to see the current E-Steps. The E-Steps tell the printer how much to rotate the motors to move an axis.
The printer should send something like " M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z800.00 E185.00 " back. We need the "E" number.

Next send " M92 E-185 " This will tell the printer to turn the extruder backwards (or forwards in your example).
Just remember to replace "185" with whatever you got back from your machine.

After that try "M92" again and you should get "M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z800.00 E-185.00". That means it should work now.
Now send "M500" to save the configuration. This saving may not work on all printers.
If the extruder is backwards again after re-starting the printer you may need to add " M92 E-185 " to the startup gcode in your slicer.
That will run this command automatically every time you start a print.
Also keep in mind that this may need to be repeated if you update the firmware again.



The connector trick also should work since these motors work based on the polarity (ie + and -) of the connection to the mainboard. So that should invert the motor direction if you invert the cable. Its literally like "putting electricity in it in reverse makes the motor go backward". After all, thats the same thing happening when you reverse the motor in the firmware, just that your mainboard reverses the polarity of the connection.
 
Is there any way to revert the software to a previous version? The printer I have can't connect to any networks (I have to shove a micro SD card into a USB adapter to upload any files to it) so I'd have to apply any updates manually. You may be able to find an older version of your printer's software floating around.

Also, I looked on Marlin's firmware page and there seems to be some patches. Have you tried installing any of those?
I have and also tried reverting to a previous version

The problem is without a doubt, just the extruder going in reverse. Everything else is in perfect order and reverting to a previous software version or patching it did not help.
 
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Switched from PLA to PET. I was gifted a pallet of PET and PETG in various for,s. 1kg rolls to 10 kg rolls (!!!)
I'm having difficulty with drool and (potentially) dimensional repeatability.

Using a 0.6 nozzle for speed on a Creality Ender 6. PrusaSlicer.
 
This might be a bit of thread necromancy, but does anyone have a bambu labs x1 carbon? I've got an ender 3 s1 and even that's giving me mega issues. I might just say fuck it and buy the x1 carbon, but I want to get the opinion of someone sneeded, is it worth the money?
I had to print a bunch of mods for the ender 3 s1 just to keep the fan housing from fucking breaking the print off during travel
 
This might be a bit of thread necromancy, but does anyone have a bambu labs x1 carbon? I've got an ender 3 s1 and even that's giving me mega issues. I might just say fuck it and buy the x1 carbon, but I want to get the opinion of someone sneeded, is it worth the money?
I had to print a bunch of mods for the ender 3 s1 just to keep the fan housing from fucking breaking the print off during travel
I always thought it was WAY overpriced, but would love to try it.
speaking of overpriced- Prusa has a Core XY now.
 
This might be a bit of thread necromancy, but does anyone have a bambu labs x1 carbon? I've got an ender 3 s1 and even that's giving me mega issues. I might just say fuck it and buy the x1 carbon, but I want to get the opinion of someone sneeded, is it worth the money?
I had to print a bunch of mods for the ender 3 s1 just to keep the fan housing from fucking breaking the print off during travel
Unfortunately the S1 was always retarded and was just a spruced up ender 3.

Finally, finally.... Creality is putting out some new shit with the SE and KE. Both have a load cell for automatic z offset and a probe for bed mesh. The KE is throwing in linear rails/rods + built in klipper for like only $280.

This is really what the S1 should have been. I returned my S1 after seeing that my $60 open box Aquila printed just as good.

"Dumb" printers (aka no klipper) are dead.
 
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Unfortunately the S1 was always retarded and was just a spruced up ender 3.

Finally, finally.... Creality is putting out some new shit with the SE and KE. Both have a load cell for automatic z offset and a probe for bed mesh. The KE is throwing in linear rails/rods + built in klipper for like only $280.

This is really what the S1 should have been. I returned my S1 after seeing that my $60 open box Aquila printed just as good.

"Dumb" printers (aka no klipper) are dead.
Creality's bang for buck can't be beat. I hate china, but my wallet loves it. They need to go full open source, though. Terrible Chinglish abounds.
What I wont buy - a Slavic DJ trying to 'educate' me on 3d printing. By selling me an undersized bedslinger for $1100
-That I HAVE TO ASSEMBLE
-With a WAITING LIST
-With crazy shipping costs
-That STILL has the worst ringing in the market

Never underestimate a Cult of Personality,
(btw - dont bother joining Printables, I joined and earned a 'free' spool of filament. Shipping cost more than 2 spools of Amazon filament with FREE shipping)
Fuck Printables - like everything in Yuropoorland, it's just a rewash.
 
Creality's bang for buck can't be beat. I hate china, but my wallet loves it. They need to go full open source, though. Terrible Chinglish abounds.
What I wont buy - a Slavic DJ trying to 'educate' me on 3d printing. By selling me an undersized bedslinger for $1100
-That I HAVE TO ASSEMBLE
-With a WAITING LIST
-With crazy shipping costs
-That STILL has the worst ringing in the market

Never underestimate a Cult of Personality,
(btw - dont bother joining Printables, I joined and earned a 'free' spool of filament. Shipping cost more than 2 spools of Amazon filament with FREE shipping)
Fuck Printables - like everything in Yuropoorland, it's just a rewash.
Talking Prusa? Sounds like Prusa. They're pretty damn culty. Bambu is getting like that, too.

I get pretty damn tired of people acting like Bambu is doing anything new besides rolling together established ideas into a proprietary package that's designed to siphon data/info.
 
Creality's bang for buck can't be beat. I hate china, but my wallet loves it. They need to go full open source, though. Terrible Chinglish abounds.
What I wont buy - a Slavic DJ trying to 'educate' me on 3d printing. By selling me an undersized bedslinger for $1100
-That I HAVE TO ASSEMBLE
-With a WAITING LIST
-With crazy shipping costs
-That STILL has the worst ringing in the market

Never underestimate a Cult of Personality,
(btw - dont bother joining Printables, I joined and earned a 'free' spool of filament. Shipping cost more than 2 spools of Amazon filament with FREE shipping)
Fuck Printables - like everything in Yuropoorland, it's just a rewash.
it's not just cult, you're looking at "professional" printers with professional support and R&D behind it - hence the pricetag. you get a prusa you know that shit's gonna work for a while.
can you run 10+ crealitys 24/7? probably, but once one of them breaks down/needs fixing that a straight loss of revenue (not to mention the money you'd have to spend for replacements/upgrades). creality probably has a big enough community someone made the parts available, while prusa offers those straight away, meaning you can often fix shit yourself instead of having to depend on the community supplying it or the vendor from china willing to send it over (which also takes time). businesses are willing to pay a premium for stuff like that.

not trying to defend prusa, but there's a reason the price is what it is (which granted over 1k bucks is a bit much, especially in the current economy)

1100 bucks is also for the assembled one, the kit is 800 bucks, only marginally more expensive than the mks3 kit was iirc. also shipping across the pond is always a bitch, just ask any yuropoor that ever ordered something from the US. subscribing to a service that does physical is straight up retarded in this case.

prusa being open source also has a few knockoffs (or least had back when I was looking around), you could probably get an equivalent stateside for possibly cheaper price or at least much less shipping. or built that shit yourself, which would be even cheaper but more work. companies are simply willing to pay for all that and be done with it.
 
R&D? You mean Marketing.
Tweaking an open-source slicer is not R&D. It's Marketing.
The only R&D in 3dprinting is by Stratasys. That's why they charge >$5k for an FDM printer

Creality is crappier, true, but I got an Ender 6 for < $400 delivered - new. I got it in _2 days_.
-CoreXY
-little/no ringing
-bigger build volume
-lots of crap that is fucking horrible

I won't stan for Creality. Low quality printer, retarded interface, Chinglish, no support.
Creality's bed zeroing is fucking retarded too.
So many things poor / wrong.

Prusa is better quality (except the ringing) and a better interface.
What Prusa forgot - Time and $$$ matter.
The Prusa 'community' and their Jim Jones do not.

(btw, my contract printing has paid for this POS 2x over.
I can throw it in the shitter, and call it a win.)
 
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creality probably has a big enough community someone made the parts available, while prusa offers those straight away, meaning you can often fix shit yourself instead of having to depend on the community supplying it or the vendor from china willing to send it over (which also takes time)
.....what? You can go on Amazon and find probably just about anything to replace on a creality. Bonus points for grabbing spares for cheaper on Ali.

Support is true, but idk, I don't use customer support on 3d printers. They're pretty simple machines.
 
How do you guys feel about Prusa brand? Do you have a suggestion for a user that intends to make small, uncommon parts and tools for light duty HVAC work? I know it will work but I don't know much about the different brands.
 
How do you guys feel about Prusa brand? Do you have a suggestion for a user that intends to make small, uncommon parts and tools for light duty HVAC work? I know it will work but I don't know much about the different brands.
Prusa: overpriced performance, probably best customer support if that's what you're into.

For 1st time "I just want to print" people, stuff like the Bambu Labs P1P and P1S seem to be the go to. Everything is proprietary and they have sketchy privacy (especially if you use their cloud service which they really want you to), but offer performance and accuracy out of the box.

Creality is king of the open ended "have to do some tinkering" printers, though they finally have some models that are more noob friendly and cheaper.
 
So uh, since we're talking about models and such, what should I be looking at if I want to graduate from an old Ender 3 to something faster and better?
 
So uh, since we're talking about models and such, what should I be looking at if I want to graduate from an old Ender 3 to something faster and better?
Idk. The question is always going to be budget. Practically anything can blow out an ender 3 nowadays, at any price range.

For example, at $200 or less you have the Ender 3 v3 SE. You get direct drive, auto bed level, auto Z offset (that's a pretty big deal), and claims to go up to 250mm/s.

Reviews suggest that the features actually do work. I think I saw people having to redo the bed mesh every few prints, but that's normal.

The KE model which should launch soon will have linear rails/rods and built in Klipper for like $280.
 
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