3-D Print General - Feeding Printers Filament

[Pepe Cortisona]

Which one?
They seem to have some versions on their site and Amazon under and over $250.

I have browsed Amazon and they are well above $250 doing exchange rates and customs fees, that's why the one in marketplace was a very attractive deal. And it was a mars 2 now that I checked with the seller.

Is this a first gen Mars? How does the pricing compared to a pre-owned one directly from Elegoo? https://www.elegoo.com/en-ca/collections/mars-series

It is a Mars 2, and compared to the prices on the website, now it seems expensive.

Thanks for the link! I didn't know I could get a used one directly from them. Is the Mars 3 a good starting point? It fits within my budget, including shipping and customs.

I am also open to suggestions and I don't mind to pay a little more than $250.

 

[Betonhaus]

Status: spaghetti
But we got the server set up with octoprint so it should just be a matter of fine tuning

 

[Betonhaus]

UPDATE: WE HAVE A BENCHY

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

Is octoprint really worth using? I can barely figure out Cura for my SV06+ as it is, and gave up on a bunch of other slicers because of that

 

[Just Some Other Guy]

Wouldn't know. I use klipper.

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

Wouldn't know. I use klipper.

My printer comes with Klipper, but I wasn't really able to figure that shit out either

 

[Betonhaus]

I have a question about supports. Instead of having the supports be reaching to the table, could they be just chamfered bits you can just knock off after?

 

[Blasterisk]

View attachment 5973619
I have a question about supports. Instead of having the supports be reaching to the table, could they be just chamfered bits you can just knock off after?

In my experience, any time a support touches a print on both ends, there's a >55% chance I leave it by accident or by laziness because they are such a pain to remove.

In the case of your second example, I would think modifying the print itself would be a reasonable alternative, and I might do so if the design allowed.

 

[indomitable snowman]

View attachment 5973619
I have a question about supports. Instead of having the supports be reaching to the table, could they be just chamfered bits you can just knock off after?

Cura has tree supports that I find are pretty good with using less material and easy to remove. I usually try and flip parts as well to minimize supports if I can get a way with it.

 

[BIG BILL HELL'S]

Cura has tree supports that I find are pretty good with using less material and easy to remove. I usually try and flip parts as well to minimize supports if I can get a way with it.

One of the rotation tools in Cura lets you select a face of your object and automatically lay that side flat on the build plate. (For anyone who doesn't already know.)

 

[Car Won't Crank]

My printer comes with Klipper, but I wasn't really able to figure that shit out either

The SV06/SV06+ comes with Klipper stock? When I was shopping I read it comes with Marlin and the SV07 is the one with factory Klipper.

 

[ZMOT]

Eh, force sensors and whatnot are cool, but I wouldn't let it stop someone dropping a couple hundred to print some minis now.

It's a lot simpler to get the hang of than FDM. Calibration only requires a few test prints.

handling resin alone is more annoying than FDM (unless you go into PTFE and heated enclosure etc.).
my point was more resin still has some "hobby" aspect you have to be willing to deal with, bambu even with all the cloud and closed source shit is a big step towards convenience compared to what came before. imo athena does the same with firmware tweaks like adopting klipper, but resin is still crap compared to PLA in terms of toxicity, waste etc.

Where the money and "AI" shit needs to be put into is the slicing software....more importantly auto supports. There would be some real value to a slicer that did flawless auto supports in a smart way.

*Edit* fwiw my Anycubic m5s has a force sensor. They just use it for fail detection and peel force sensing. No dynamic layer height stuff....but I could see them working on that.

didn't think about AI for supports tbh, but wonder how good it could be with all the factors involved. you'd still need to feed it the data from any failed prints so it can incorporate that, which has it's own factors involved.

most minis come somewhat properly presupported anyway. but tbh at the end I rather see a process without having to deal with all that shit like inkjet printing, but that will probably never consumer grade due to the patents alone...

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

The SV06/SV06+ comes with Klipper stock? When I was shopping I read it comes with Marlin and the SV07 is the one with factory Klipper.

I'm pretty sure the + does, it came with a separate screen that they sell as the Klipper screen. Pretty sure it's faster, but I didn't do many prints with the old screen

 

[Just Some Other Guy]

So I think I might replace the linear rods on my KE with rails.

 

[Orange Rhymer]

Story of woe with BIQU products:
Got a BIQU hotend & extruder combo - installed it on my Ender6
Went all-in with the H2V2S and Hermit Crab mounting system (non-CAN) - mostly optimized for the Ender3 series, but I figured the similarities would lead to me being able to use it. WRONG. I also got their probe.
TL;DR - H2V2S is an awesome design, but the 'grinding' is a fatal misalignment of the gearbox bearing and the shaft - walks over time. Hermit Crab quick change system is compatible only with Ender3 series. The microprobe is good. But to use any of these products, you need to be sharp.
Warranty/Tech Support? I've been told not to bother/save your breath. Wild West Chinese capitalism. It cost you near-nothing, deal with it or throw it away.
Remember - I got all 3 of these products for @ $160 on sale, DELIVERED. So, not a lot of money for a lot of learning.

The Good: The Microprobe
WARNING - you MUST have Klipper and be ADEPT at Klipper config programming to properly use this item!
WARNING - you MUST have a caliper and/or a machinists rule to properly calibrate your probe X-Y-Z offset (according to your pre-printed support).
WARNING -you MUST wire the Microprobe directly to the Ender6 Motherboard. You CANNOT wire it to the shitty extruder 'breakout board'.
I preprinted several mounts for the microprobe. I found several configs and programmed my Klipper.
Works great.
I previously used BL-Touch and CR-Touch and both failed due to the Ender6 design.
The Ender6 mounts probes NEXT TO THE EXTRUDER, inside a metal fan mount/metal shroud. Temps are VERY high and I found my BL and CR touch units partially melted. This caused crazy calibration issues - leading to 45minute recalibration sessions.
The Microprobe is lighter, more precise, and cheaper than any competition.
However, on the Ender6 you need to buy/make the longest probe cable you can find (on Amazon) and wire directly to the motherboard. The voltage on the breakout board is too low to support the Microprobe. Also - I routed my probe cable through the 20/20 extrusions - for sexy and cable length reasons.

The Bad: The H2V2S-
Installation of the H2V2S was easy-moderate. I'm a mechanically inclined professional, so take that as a precaution.
After @12 hours of printing, I started hearing a low grinding with some extrusion shorts. As the grinding increased, the shorts became more severe until layers were missing.
Cheap (chinese) bearings in the gearbox are either misaligned to the shaft, or the OD of the bearing recess allows the bearing to cant under load. When the bearing shifts, the extruder drive axle slips out of the drive-transmission.
I will attempt to correct by a drop of lock-tite along to outside of the bearing to freeze it in place and stop the movement.

The Ugly: The Hermit Crab; Quick Change System
I wish I could review this, but it is inncompatible and unusable with the exclusive support for the Ender3 series DESPITE advertising compatibility with the Ender6.
I had dreams of CNC and Laser Engraving with my Ender6. Now I can't see that happening.
The marketing material CLEARLY states compatibility with the Ender6. It isn't. No backplate, and the wiring exercise will be intense.
I'm not mad about the Hermit Crab gamble - eventually I'm sure I will get it installed (when I machine a backplate - eyeroll).

 

[Rekeita's Kidneys]

Currently dealing with my dual z axis's binding on my Ender 3v2, along with globbing. Any clue how to deal with both of em? I'm running a direct drive extruder also.

(figured i'd ask since i do not know any other 3d printer autists irl)

 

[Just Some Other Guy]

Currently dealing with my dual z axis's binding on my Ender 3v2, along with globbing. Any clue how to deal with both of em? I'm running a direct drive extruder also.

(figured i'd ask since i do not know any other 3d printer autists irl)

Do both sides of the z axis move at the same time? Are the wheels on one side too tight/too loose? Are both sides of the gantry level? What type of dual z is it, single motor with a belt or dual motors?

 

[Rekeita's Kidneys]

Do both sides of the z axis move at the same time? Are the wheels on one side too tight/too loose? Are both sides of the gantry level? What type of dual z is it, single motor with a belt or dual motors?

Both sides feel the same, no wheels binding at all. Dual motor with dual screw. Maybe one of the lead screws is bent slightly?

 

[Betonhaus]

what's the most interesting things to print? I've just been doing stuff like an infinity cube and fidget gears and a USS Enterprise stand for the Google Home

 

[Car Won't Crank]

what's the most interesting things to print? I've just been doing stuff like an infinity cube and fidget gears and a USS Enterprise stand for the Google Home

That really depends on the person. Some people like printing really intricate figurines and models for show or play, which they take great interest in. Others like to create functional parts and don't care about aesthetics except that the part has been made well and no obvious structural and fit/finish problems. Combining 3d scanning and photogrammetry with 3d printing is another cool thing.