3-D Print General - Feeding Printers Filament

Those are just for the Z-axis. I mean something that gives you absolute X, Y, Z coordinates of the print head. Wouldn't this mostly fix inter-layer shift?
You want closed-loop motors.
They can accurately keep track of how much the motor turns, usually using an encoder wheel (like a how a mouse scroll wheel works), so it can compensate for the stepper motor missing steps, which is the cause for layer shifts.
Those don't need to be absolute, you already get the absolute position through the end stops - you only need to accurately keep track of the distance travelled relative to that.
 
Is there really that much variance in the XY axis? Z is a big deal because printing surfaces are almost never flat and level. The printer should know the XY by distance traveled, assuming the hardware is actually working properly.

Or am I thinking about this wrong? It's been a couple years since I've messed around with filament printing.
I guess if your really were that crazy you could put a set of digital scales on the X and Y axises but that seems like overkill. Even high end CNC doesn’t do that. Regular calibration of your zero point along with decent stepper motors means that you can regularly get within 0.001” repeatability on these machines.
 
On the bottom you have the Anet A8 Plus, which is mind-bogglingly cheap at around 140€ delivered for a larger volume printer and a great choice for people who like to tinker because they follow the open-source i3 design pretty closely.
That shit's a firetrap.

Good luck with your insurance company if that thing is the cause of your house going up in flames.
 
Those are just for the Z-axis. I mean something that gives you absolute X, Y, Z coordinates of the print head. Wouldn't this mostly fix inter-layer shift?
You don't need absolute accuracy, you only need relative accuracy. That's why you only have to level the bed relative to the print nozzle, not to the ground or to anything else. As long as your initial layer is accurate and there's no mechanical deficiency in your printer, your print will come out proper
 
You're thinking of the A8 (which didn't use to have thermal runaway enabled in the firmware)
The A8 Plus is quite different.
Did not know that.

With a reputation like A8 had, why would you not change the name to something different?
 
Did not know that.

With a reputation like A8 had, why would you not change the name to something different?
Companies do dumb stuff like that all the time. Hell, Chevy kept making the C/K after they were discovered to explode in pretty much any side impact. They figure name recognition is more important than positive press, and usually they're right
 
With a reputation like A8 had, why would you not change the name to something different?
Can't expect great marketing from a small Chinese company.
That said the A8 was still pretty popular - the housefire thing is a bit exaggerated.
 
Companies do dumb stuff like that all the time. Hell, Chevy kept making the C/K after they were discovered to explode in pretty much any side impact. They figure name recognition is more important than positive press, and usually they're right
In fairness to chevy they actually burned just as much as other trucks. That line was peddled by NBC and got them sued by GM. Turns out it was staged with rocket motors and multiple reporters lost their jobs over it.
 
In fairness to chevy they actually burned just as much as other trucks. That line was peddled by NBC and got them sued by GM. Turns out it was staged with rocket motors and multiple reporters lost their jobs over it.
Despite the Dateline controversy, the side-saddle fuel tanks on the C/K were much more dangerous than competing trucks of the time, though its a testament to the bean counters at Chevrolet that they still paid less in settlements than they would have to put protective cages on the tanks

edit: a good, if slightly biased, writeup of the controversy: https://www.autosafety.org/history-gm-side-saddle-gas-tank-defect/
 
If anyone on the fence wants in on our shared melted plastic autism for relatively cheap there are Ender 3s to be had today for $180 today with US shipping and a good return policy.

On topic.. Does anyone happen to know if there's a better model repository for models related to hardware prototyping than Thingiverse? I've been toying with learning PCB design recently and want to be able to print cases for the dumb shit I'm planning on making, but measuring components sucks and feels like it should be a solved problem by now (and preferably one that's been cloned into a free service by the community).
 
If anyone on the fence wants in on our shared melted plastic autism for relatively cheap there are Ender 3s to be had today for $180 today with US shipping and a good return policy.

On topic.. Does anyone happen to know if there's a better model repository for models related to hardware prototyping than Thingiverse? I've been toying with learning PCB design recently and want to be able to print cases for the dumb shit I'm planning on making, but measuring components sucks and feels like it should be a solved problem by now (and preferably one that's been cloned into a free service by the community).

https://archlinux.org/packages/community/any/kicad-library/, I suppose. If you look at the file list, there appears to be quite a bit of stuff.
 
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Thanks for that, it made me realize my KiCad install wasn't properly configured. Still a couple boards missing but the majority of what I need seems to be there.
 
You don't need absolute accuracy, you only need relative accuracy. That's why you only have to level the bed relative to the print nozzle, not to the ground or to anything else. As long as your initial layer is accurate and there's no mechanical deficiency in your printer, your print will come out proper
With relative accuracy, won't errors accumulate? I've seen this when I look at prints - inside each layer, the tolerances are tight, but each layer will be displaced by some very small amount, so the XY tolerances are going do be dogshit across the entire object.
 
With relative accuracy, won't errors accumulate? I've seen this when I look at prints - inside each layer, the tolerances are tight, but each layer will be displaced by some very small amount, so the XY tolerances are going do be dogshit across the entire object.
That's not quite relative accuracy. If you're talking about layer lines, that's inevitable, you're either going to have to sand those down, torch them, or deal with it

If your prints are actually drifting left/right/up/down between layers, that's a failure of your relative accuracy. Your printer can't maintain x/y relative to the previous layer
 
Speaking of 3D printing model sources, here's two kinda niche ones that may interest some of you.

NASA - Apollo landing sites and various spacecraft

Iowa State TouchTerrain - Terrain models of any place you choose
Thank you, I needed something to break the SLA printer's virginity and Voyager seems like the perfect one

Update: print unfortunately failed, with the long antenna its just too fine detail for my cheap crealty resin printer to handle. I could probably cut the antenna off but I may just look for a different model. Saturn V looks fun and looks right up the alley of resin, its long and it doesn't need a bunch of supports
 
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I want to do a Pi-based cyberdeck build (been gathering parts to put one together), and I hear that gubmints are getting antsy about 3D-printed firearm receivers and are considering outright banning 3D printers (lol, retards). What printer should I get and what kind of precision should I be looking for? Since I want to do something the size of a full-size keyboard, I either need a large build area, or I need to print multiple pieces and bond them together. I have no idea what's good and what's garbage in 3D printer terms. What's the best software for doing the actual tool paths?
 
I want to do a Pi-based cyberdeck build (been gathering parts to put one together), and I hear that gubmints are getting antsy about 3D-printed firearm receivers and are considering outright banning 3D printers (lol, retards). What printer should I get and what kind of precision should I be looking for? Since I want to do something the size of a full-size keyboard, I either need a large build area, or I need to print multiple pieces and bond them together. I have no idea what's good and what's garbage in 3D printer terms. What's the best software for doing the actual tool paths?
Pretty much any printer you buy can be upgraded to do the things you want. At that size, unless your budget has a comma in it, you'll probably be bonding parts. I just stuck my keyboard on my Ender 3 (admittedly, a small entry level printer) and it doesn't fit in any dimension.

If you're doing traditional FDM printing, you'll always have tooling marks and layer lines in your prints at an enthusiast price point. Better to buy a cheaper printer and be willing to take sandpaper to your builds to finish them yourself imo.

Be prepared for a long and involved hobby, especially if you're doing your own designing (there are design considerations to keep in mind for models that successfully 3D print)

As for printer recommendations, I believe the best way to get into the hobby is buy a cheap, well supported printer like the Ender 3 and build it to what you want it to be. I'm about $300 into mine but I've added a bunch of upgrades that matter to me.
 
I want to do a Pi-based cyberdeck build (been gathering parts to put one together), and I hear that gubmints are getting antsy about 3D-printed firearm receivers and are considering outright banning 3D printers (lol, retards). What printer should I get and what kind of precision should I be looking for? Since I want to do something the size of a full-size keyboard, I either need a large build area, or I need to print multiple pieces and bond them together. I have no idea what's good and what's garbage in 3D printer terms. What's the best software for doing the actual tool paths?
Check out this video WRT the 3-D printing BS. I work in the manufacturing sector and I can guarantee that if Congress decides to ban 3-d printers the knock on effects in manufacturing will be enormous. Off the top of my head, good luck getting a hip implant that is FDA certified. Almost all of them are 3-d printed for weight and material savings. Titanium ain’t cheap.
 
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