Anyone into gunpla - Japanophiles unite to share tips on painting our toys (GUNPLA IS FREEDOM)

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Alright! So I finally got a kit I was looking forward to, a Chinese knock-off of a metal build figure which was reworked by the bootlegers into a fully functional model kit.
Devolution Getter [Black]
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Right off the bat, this design is nuts. It's a combiner super robot from the 70's given a new design in a recent serialized manga series called "Getter Devolution", a sort of alternate universe(?) story taking inspiration from the late Ishikawa's great Getter Robo series (the first giant robot series to pioneer the concept of "combiners"--robots formed from multiple vehicles combining into one). Here's the Bandai HG kit of the original retro design:
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(1/150th scale standing man not included)
You can find this kit nicely priced at Gundam Planet (don't mention that the torso is backwards, I know lol). The hands, feet and superhero underwear are of soft rubber. The whole kit can come apart easily but be put back together just as easy. It's a very kid friendly model kit once it's built--despite the manga being VERY NSFL for kids.
Back to Devolution:
Getter 1 Wing_Devolution.png

This is meant to be the red Getter 1 (so named because the robot has three forms for combat) forced through artificial accelerated evolution with a plot point to spur on a plot point to kill the Will of the Universe before it kills all mankind. The story of the manga is dumb with it's constant rug-pulls and if you're a classic Getter fan then it could be a major insult to Ishikawa's legacy to you. However, it reintroduced the bloody and hardcore edge that Getter always had, the series basically feeling like "What if Devil Man...but a giant robot?", likely because Ishikawa began as a protege of the great Go Nagai, creator of Devilman and one of the epochs of giant mecha history: Mazinger.

To follow this hardcore and brutal super robot concept, the fresh-faced upstarts working on Devolution created the Devolution Getter. Much like its ancestor, it can fly by means of summoning a giant cape called the Getter Wing and has dual blades it wields in combat, the Getter Tomahawks:
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Not really "tomahawks" though. More like...katars? I forget what they're called but you know what I mean. The HG red Getter 1 posted above has the tomahawks. This one has these things.
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The Devolution Getter (hereafter called DG) is colossal in lore, much like most super robots. That little white peg at the bottom is what YOU would look like standing next to it IRL. The cockpit is in the head, just like the original Getter 1. The model kit itself is also fairly large, coming roughly a smidge taller than a MG RX-78-2. The color scheme for the DG is the exact same as the original Getter Robo, with mostly red, yellow and some accents of black. Of course this kit is colored differently, inspired by a unique version of that Getter found in "Getter Armageddon" OVA series where the robot fell through the atmosphere and thus was charred black. This color scheme is not found in the Devolution manga.
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Above is an image of the original Devolution Getter (Black) figure created by Sentinel vs the bootleg I'm reviewing. Sold for upwards of $300 (these days going for far more), the original was, as I said, a Metal Build style figure. All the inner joints, silvery bits, etc. were die-cast metal. The grey pieces were matte and the black pieces were either matte or a high gloss. The bootleg company known as Dragon Momoko/MJH took the design documents and made it into a model kit. How'd it turn out? Well, it turned out amazing! The posability of this thing is astonishing despite it's bizarre proportions and tiny feet (the feet are small--that big front piece you see is just the foot guard). It's enormous thick legs can even do a complete bend!
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However the kit does have flaws. It's a bootleg, after all, so that means certain parts wouldn't fit very well. Honestly, though, only the head piece is a problem. It's basically the size of a miniature (Getter heads started shrinking oddly until Getter Arc, Ishikawa's final manga which he sadly passed away before finishing, so the Devolution guys followed suit). There's an internal ball-joint for the base of the neck and a tiny one for the head but the head just doesn't fit. You get enough movement from the larger balljoint so you might as well glue the head at a proper angle and just swap the faces.

The faces leads us to the next point of contention, though: paintwork. If you buy this kit know that it won't look exactly like the above. The accents of red throughout the kit were added by me, as was the gun metal coloring of the inner frame, the gold color of the spikes and elsewhere (I lost a spike dammit) and the silver for the arm blades and weapons. The original out of box color scheme is more true to the original Sentinel metal build figure despite not having gold (it's yellowish orange instead) or tiny red accents (those are just black, but you get three different pairs of horns and one of them is red). Still, I wanted to change it up a bit.

My paintwork was coming along nicely until I tried to repaint the eyes to look better, and...well:
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The head is pre-ainted so it looks good enough. Maybe some very light panel lining to decrease the overabundant orange on the eyes. However I tried to redo it all and...man, that's not happening. Unless you paint Games Workshop stuff like Warhammer figures don't even bother. Seriously. It's just too small. This is what I got after two hours and a cramped hand.

The accessories are phenomenal, though. You get six pairs of hands (open, two types of weapon holding hands and closed fists). You get two types of arm blades (one short type and one for when the blades are extended to attack). You get the two "tomahawks" shown previously and you get this:
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This is the Getter Battle Axe Ass Blaster (patent pending). No actually I don't recall it's name but it's a massive battle axe and it's awesome. Literally. Remember, that little white peg is a 5'9'' human. This kit is therefore roughly 1/220 scale of the actual robot's size, meaning this giant axe--which, for the kit, is just over a foot long or so--would cleave an Evangelion in half. I took a pic back when I thought it was a 1/100 scale (hence the pilot figure below) and it was still enormous:
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As you saw, the figure comes with a stand. Three, in fact, and as you also saw it needs all three to be propped up securely. Even then it's a pain in the ass to configure it right, though that might be because of how my paintwork added to everything's girth a bit. If you built this out of box then it'd likely be easier. Maybe.
The Devolution Getter also has hidden gimmicks. You already saw that it has an opening mouth to shoot beams from (you change the faces on the model kit) but the weird tire-like shoulders also have GIANT beam emitters:
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The translucent forest green plastic comes with an extra pair for the chest and shoulder bits. Also a pair of green horns and some extra detail pieces for the leg vents (which aren't canonical but who cares?). What's weird is that the signature Getter Beam attack comes from the center of the chest or navel and somehow...this kit can't do it. The Sentinel figure it's modeled after can but you only get one piece for the center-chest, this white cap piece. No alternate green piece for when it's blasting away.

But of course you'll have noticed that this kit isn't 1-1 with the original Sentinel figure's design. Just look at the arms in the previous comparison for proof. Still, it's very accurate to the manga and works well enough. It's overall a great kit, one made even better by the inclusion of something that DID come with the Sentinel figure.
See, every Getter Robo has something unique to them, and this DG is no different. Although it has the Getter Wing superhero cape (all tattered because it's Ow the Edge), you also get the DG's signature wings and tail:
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It's massive! However, the wings don't move very much. They can pivot left-right, up-down at the connecting joint and that's it really. A few moving parts but nothing to let it do the poses it can in the manga. Also technically the Shin Getter had wings first. No one had a tail, though! This tail is wonderfully secure with all of its many ball joints and capable of doing anything you can think of, really. Honestly all the joints are nicely tight, every part fitting flush--which is why this kit was a colossal pain in the ass after I had painted everything and needed to put it together.

All the pegs are thick, too, so you're not likely to break something too easily (unless it falls) unlike the Kotobukiya kits I'd reviewed. It has an upper and lower hinge joint to give it a great ab crunch and the base of the hips let it swivel side-to-side with a waist turn as well. The arms have a full bend with a secondary 360 twist at the forarms, which can also hinge inward for a pseudo wrist joint. The hands are pegged in securely and pivot side-to-side as well. The feet hinge forward and back, pivot side-to-side, and the foot shield thing is on a balljoint to give you added security when standing it up or posing it. Overall, it's really nifty.

Again, you can see how all the above would be a curse rather than a blessing if you paint every single piece before trying to fit it together.

Don't be me. Don't be dumb.

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You can get the model kit of this for just over $74 with shipping and tax from local sellers. Final word of warning though:
The Devolution Getter manga wasn't created by Ishikawa, as I've mentioned. It was actually created by someone else, a duo who had created another super robot whose kit I had enjoyed...and then boiled.
Yes, it's the Linebarrels duo. You know what that means! SHARP! THE KIT IS SO SHARP! I CUT MYSELF ON TH EDGE, LITERALLY! PLEASE BE CAREFUL IT'S SO SHARP YOU HAVE NO IDEA! It's like the kit hates you and wants you to suffer as you try to bring it to life. It's literally the exact experience I had with the Kotobukiya Linebarrels kit. At least this one was much bigger so it wasn't cramping my hands (only slicing them).
If anybody wants the Devolution Getter manga I'll upload it along with the original Getter manga.

Haven’t had time to build in ages, but sat down and put together the frame for the MG Barbatos.
You could absolutely do up the inner frame without the armor, add a few of the armor pieces and just keep it like that. Honestly it looks better partially built than fully built because of that gorgeous head and cool inner frame design. Those pistons are fantastic, too.

Sorry I haven't been around in ages
Same. I'm always in the Covid thread or just browsing the site. Running low on patience for painting these days myself so I can really appreciate the extra effort here. Kit looks fun, man. Kinda like the Heavy Arms's younger brother. lol But really you did a nice job. Definitely better than leaving it plasticy blue.
Also my phone is practically dusted at this point so I know the feeling lol. And Muslims have Ramadan so it's kinda fun for them, too, except for the bombings.

Merry Christmas, Syn. If I never get to see you into the new year then know that I'm glad you keep having fun despite life's troubles. Whether here or on other gunpla threads/forums, always share that creativity.
 
@EyelessMC (can’t quote your post) that’s a gnarly looking kit, I think it’s the first time I’ve seen a cloth cape on a plamo.

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Finished the MG Barbatos and damn, what a great kit. While it’s a bit finicky to pose (to be expected from a model kit, it’s not a toy after all), once you know how everything moves you can get it into a surprising number of positions. He’s going on the ever-growing list of kits that I’ll get around to painting eventually, but honestly he’s sitting near the bottom because it looks pretty awesome even without paint or decals. Funny thing about the sniper rifle is that there is literally no way to actually align the sight with its eyes - what the fuck is it even for? LOL.

I also built the HG Cybaster, which I paid $20 for after a coupon, because it was mislabeled as a $30 kit at the hobby store. The plastic is this strange pearlescent white which actually looks really nice, and it’s got pretty decent color separation for an HG. Despite actually having decent built-in articulation, it’s pretty much a brick thanks to its ridiculous armor, which heavily limits arm and leg movement. It’s a cool robot to sit on my shelf at $20, and the shiny plastic really does make it look pretty cool, but I definitely wouldn’t have paid $50 for it.

I also opened up the MG Wing Gundam (which I bought mostly to harvest one of the pairs of wings to make a custom MP Eva) and… damn this nigga got a lot of runners. The Barbatos instruction manual helpfully noted which runners would be used for each part of the build but the Wing Gundam doesn’t, so I can already see it being a much more time-consuming process just finding all the parts. I might change up my workflow and just cut and sort all the easily-distinguishable parts by runner beforehand so that the actual assembly can go by quicker.
 
lol

Barbataurus is rad though

@EyelessMC (can’t quote your post) that’s a gnarly looking kit, I think it’s the first time I’ve seen a cloth cape on a plamo.
Pretty sure we used to get stuff like that with certain kits back in the day. Same with the fun pilot figures you'd get with old HG kits way back when. Shame they don't do stuff like that anymore, though for that matter they don't make enough super robot kits to begin with. Those more outlandish designs lend well to cloth capes and cloaks. The only exceptions I can think of are the Crossbone Gundams--which deserve better cloaks, though at least the RG did the plastic alternative some justice.
Funny thing about the sniper rifle is that there is literally no way to actually align the sight with its eyes - what the fuck is it even for? LOL.
Now I want to see a stop motion where Barbatos keeps trying to snipe people but gets depressed every time it strains to see through the sight.
I also built the HG Cybaster, which I paid $20 for after a coupon
That is exactly what Cybaster should've gone for and precisely because of the reasons you already listed. Plus I heard the armor can be brittle if fiddled with too much but that might be because of people getting frustrated with the limited articulation.
I also opened up the MG Wing Gundam (which I bought mostly to harvest one of the pairs of wings to make a custom MP Eva)
I was thinking of doing the same thing for my custom RG Eva 6 but I didn't want to buy another kit and buying the parts separately from MechaPartsGuy would basically cost me another kit. Great idea, man. Show us the WIP as you figure it out.
 
Took me ages to get this kit primed because I ran out of tamiya primer midway through but I managed to find somewhere nearby that stocks gray primer rattlecans at a decent price.

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I've ordered a wet palette so I can start hand-painting this kit because I don't have a decent airbrush setup and I genuinely despise taking an hour to get everything set up only to then spend hours trying to get the paint mixture right, then spending another hour cleaning up and putting all my airbrushing gear back in its storage area when I can get everything set up to paint, paint /and/ clear everything up in a third of the time without really thinking about it if I hand-paint things because I've been doing that since I was a small child.

EDIT: I've gone over the kit with a 240 grit sanding stick and a glass file to get rid of any weird or gummy looking spots. I didn't get a second rattlecan so I'll just re-prime the bits that need re-priming with an airbrush and the shitty vallejo acrylic I keep as a backup.
 
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Dipping my toes back into painting… built and primed one of the Eva Mechatro kits I’ve had lying on my shelf for a while. It came with a little resin Rei figure, which was interesting to work with… very different from the snap-together plastic I’m familiar with. I wanted to airbrush it as well so I also cut the arms off and used bits of stiff wire to make “pegs”.
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Also painted up the HG Union Flag. I majorly fucked up the lower legs and just re-primed them, so they still need to be repainted. Also haven’t wiped off the panel line smudges yet because I forgot where I put my bigass bottle of mineral spirits. Didn’t do anything too special with this one, just did solid colors everywhere without any masking.
 
Excuse the double post… Finished painting up the Union Flag. The concept for this one was a white robot wearing bright red sneakers, because that’s what the foot design reminded me of. Masking off the cuff on the leg was a massive pain in the ass, and the paint there is a little sloppy (gonna cover it up with panel lining once the clear coat cures) but the overall effect came out a LOT nicer than I was envisioning. I did fuck up by not layering enough white paint on my original pass-through, so the repainted parts (pelvis and legs) are a little bit whiter than the rest of the body, which is more bluish due to the grey primer showing through. I’m fine with that though, not striving for perfection here since this is a kit I got for like $15 specifically to practice painting on.

Even this small HG kit was kind of a pain to paint, just with how many damn pieces there were. I don’t want to imagine trying to paint a real grade or a master grade…
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E: so as not to multipost..

(Mostly) finished painting the Eva Mechatro and I’m pretty sure I have cancer now. This is probably my first “proper” paint job and given some of the fuckups along the way, I think it came out really nice. I think painting is therapeutic in the sense that you learn to forgive small errors and imperfections, and not let perfect get in the way of good.
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Had some time to take some pictures of two models I finished during the nice, long holiday. Plus an old favorite I didn't have good pictures of yet.

Fresh and shiny, straight from the showroom. How soon until it gets pounded into scrap by Dougram?
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Checking in with a Bushman colleague, also due for a date with Dougram destiny
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Maschinen Krieger 1/20 SAFS armor suits have an opening head hatch like the one on the left below, but don't feature a suit opening/boarding feature like the old, larger scale ones did. Brickworks came out with a licensed resin detail up interior add-on, which is the suit on the right. Required a lot of cutting and filler but it turned out okay. Why did I add rust to a space type suit?

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I didn't have any pictures of this older model so I took some while I had the light box out. I'd always been annoyed that the Phalanx didn't get any attention from the modern Macross toy makers, but the Wave 1/72 kit was really nice and looks good on the shelf with the old Matchbox-released Robotech 1/144 die-cast, and 7" plastic toy . It also doesn't look out of place with the other Destroid 1/60 toys that Yamato released.
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I've mostly been busy with work, but I have made two models over this long gap.

SHENXING TECHNOLOGY Dragon

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Yes, the long boy dragon kit. For those that had this pass over, this is a very large kit, almost 3 yards (or almost 1 meter) long and each segment is posable. Currently, he resides in my model building area defending from something.

Motor King Zaku Tank

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I did not like this kit, it was very fiddly and too many of the pieces would stress too easily, so when I broke the one arm, I used the plasma cannon thing and just rammed it in there. It also can have electronics, but due to not having soldering equipment I didn't do that. It's an easy tell it's Chinese based on build quality but the only Bandai Zaku Tank is a MSV kit, or for those that don't know, a very limited articulated kit whereas this kit is technically MG (cool tidbit: Bandai did plan for a MG of this kit, but pulled the plug after debut of a prototype of it.)

Overall, the dragon long boy I recommend, either the white and black, or the azure color. Zaku Tank is a hard pass due to flimsy build quality and overall fiddlyness. Next kit coming down the pipe is Arcanadea Lumita kit from Kotobukiya (it's a new line and I'm a sucker for anything remotely close to Lightsworns which this kit reminds me of my favorite deck... yea Yu-Gi-Oh is a fun pastime that I don't play as much and I just kinda fell away due to loss of interest and toxic player base. Anyway, I hope your builds go smoothly and have a great day!
 
Built my first gundam today , it was one of the coolest kits i've ever built , the moment i feel in love was when i took the first part of the leg off the sprue and saw its moving parts.
 
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Recently caught a rare Gundam Delta Kai HG from a local shop. Its basically a Delta Plus mecha with visual homages to the classic Universal Century hunka-chunk designs. You can see elements of the Zeta in the face, the ZZ in its knees and feet, etc. It's even got a shield it uses like a dual-saber clobbering stick. That shield has an attachment that's not pictured, too, which turns out to be a toned-down version of the ZZ Gundam's head's Mega Cannon.
The kit comes with the Delta Plus's beam rifle on the runners so you technically get two beam rifles, that one and the massive beast of a rifle you see it pictured with. The little standing figure isn't included, of course, and neither is the stand, but it comes with little flat stands for the funnels.
The Gundam also has two fin funnels as well which were prototypes for the Nu Gundam's iconic funnels. These two are unique in that they don't fold, though, and they're slightly larger than the Nu Gundam's funnels. The most fun aspect however is the Waverider mode which is probably the best looking Gundam transformation mode I've ever seen this side of the ZZ Gundam. It's parts-forming, of course, but it's not as complicated as you'd think from a glance at the manual.

The lore for this is a bit iffy, being partly canonical to Unicorn's version of the UC timeline and partly in what's basically Gundam's version of an Elseworlds story, I think. The manga only had its first chapter translated so the only thing I know is that this is somewhat of a Psycho Gundam, being a mecha specially designed with a psycho frame that somehow actively rewrites a normal pilot's brain into being akin to a Newtype, hence the ability to use funnel weapons. This of course leads to the danger of developing psychosis or otherwise. It is, however, the hero mecha of its manga. Figure that one out.

Also it emits transient blue flames from its vents when it begins reaching its combat potential. That wasn't explained in the manga chapter either but considering this is a Gundam Unicorn storyline it's not surprising. Gundam becomes super robot tier with Unicorn.
I only added a couple stickers and changed some minor things like adding a bit of red to make it more akin to the classic Gundam colors. I also used a small drill to make a couple holes at the bottom of the beam sabers which attach onto the shield. This way the old school fat beam effect parts you see there can attach onto the sabers while mounted into the shield, something that's shown in the manga. It's how the Delta Kai was able to slice a Delta Plus in half.

After a bit of panel lining and matte top coat I can say the kit is really nice and poses great, surprisingly better than the HG Gremory I got recently. The Gremory is great in terms of aesthetic but that's about it. The only weapon it has is a boat anchor and its real claim to fame is its almost improbable defense from its cloak armor. Also it's one of those ancient Gundams from the IBO lore. It's interesting, sort of, but really lacking aside from looks and of course it has that really weak frame that all IBO HG kits have.

Aside from that I've also managed to snag an Aile Strike Gundam (RM) recently. Now THIS is a beautiful kit. I'll post pictures once I'm done but this is definitely where gunpla started to become timeless, around 2013 or so it seems, because this kit is rock solid, smooth to build and fun to pose. One of the front skirts broke and I had to glue it but because it's hinged to a ball joint the thing still has range of movement (hinge is glued, ball joint is fine). Again, I'll post pics once I'm done but hot damn is this just my favorite re-imagining of an RX-78 design.
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My friend bought me the Strike Freedom Gundam MG for Christmas so after painting and building that one I've felt obligated to give SEED another try. So far I'm really enjoying the series more than I remember, although I'm barely halfway through the first run and I do remember Destiny being the real problem child of the franchise, though I suppose I'll see once I get to it.
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Had some time to take some pictures of two models I finished during the nice, long holiday. Plus an old favorite I didn't have good pictures of yet.

Fresh and shiny, straight from the showroom. How soon until it gets pounded into scrap by Dougram?
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Checking in with a Bushman colleague, also due for a date with Dougram destiny
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Maschinen Krieger 1/20 SAFS armor suits have an opening head hatch like the one on the left below, but don't feature a suit opening/boarding feature like the old, larger scale ones did. Brickworks came out with a licensed resin detail up interior add-on, which is the suit on the right. Required a lot of cutting and filler but it turned out okay. Why did I add rust to a space type suit?

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I didn't have any pictures of this older model so I took some while I had the light box out. I'd always been annoyed that the Phalanx didn't get any attention from the modern Macross toy makers, but the Wave 1/72 kit was really nice and looks good on the shelf with the old Matchbox-released Robotech 1/144 die-cast, and 7" plastic toy . It also doesn't look out of place with the other Destroid 1/60 toys that Yamato released.
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You're on a whole other level from where I'm at, lol. Amazing work here. Great variety of styles for each kit, too. Really like what you did with the space suit. The rust makes sense when you consider how often the suit would need to be hosed down from space debris or maybe foreign atmosphere or something. Imagination, man. Point is, you really nailed it.

A lot of people don't know how to weather things properly and just end up smearing crap all over their kit and thinking they know what they're talking about. Others end up going too far with otherwise good skill and the end result isn't so much a weathered machine but an ancient, decommissioned mess. Like as if their kit was found at the bottom of a wet, burnt dumpster. And I should know--I'm a king of ruining kits.

Never was a fan of working with resin but I might look into resin conversion parts at some point. What are some tips you can share?

Built my first gundam today , it was one of the coolest kits i've ever built , the moment i feel in love was when i took the first part of the leg off the sprue and saw its moving parts.
It really is fun, isnt it? At least it is if you buy a well designed kit and not a floppy mess. So what kit did you build?

I've mostly been busy with work, but I have made two models over this long gap.

SHENXING TECHNOLOGY Dragon

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Yes, the long boy dragon kit. For those that had this pass over, this is a very large kit, almost 3 yards (or almost 1 meter) long and each segment is posable. Currently, he resides in my model building area defending from something.

Motor King Zaku Tank

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I did not like this kit, it was very fiddly and too many of the pieces would stress too easily, so when I broke the one arm, I used the plasma cannon thing and just rammed it in there. It also can have electronics, but due to not having soldering equipment I didn't do that. It's an easy tell it's Chinese based on build quality but the only Bandai Zaku Tank is a MSV kit, or for those that don't know, a very limited articulated kit whereas this kit is technically MG (cool tidbit: Bandai did plan for a MG of this kit, but pulled the plug after debut of a prototype of it.)

Overall, the dragon long boy I recommend, either the white and black, or the azure color. Zaku Tank is a hard pass due to flimsy build quality and overall fiddlyness. Next kit coming down the pipe is Arcanadea Lumita kit from Kotobukiya (it's a new line and I'm a sucker for anything remotely close to Lightsworns which this kit reminds me of my favorite deck... yea Yu-Gi-Oh is a fun pastime that I don't play as much and I just kinda fell away due to loss of interest and toxic player base. Anyway, I hope your builds go smoothly and have a great day!
Really kick ass choices! Don't think I've ever seen a Zaku tank, and the Delta Kai I got was MSV as well. Funny coincidence. Really great work on that dragon, mate. This is great fun to check out.

Excuse the double post… Finished painting up the Union Flag. The concept for this one was a white robot wearing bright red sneakers, because that’s what the foot design reminded me of. Masking off the cuff on the leg was a massive pain in the ass, and the paint there is a little sloppy (gonna cover it up with panel lining once the clear coat cures) but the overall effect came out a LOT nicer than I was envisioning. I did fuck up by not layering enough white paint on my original pass-through, so the repainted parts (pelvis and legs) are a little bit whiter than the rest of the body, which is more bluish due to the grey primer showing through. I’m fine with that though, not striving for perfection here since this is a kit I got for like $15 specifically to practice painting on.

Even this small HG kit was kind of a pain to paint, just with how many damn pieces there were. I don’t want to imagine trying to paint a real grade or a master grade…
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E: so as not to multipost..

(Mostly) finished painting the Eva Mechatro and I’m pretty sure I have cancer now. This is probably my first “proper” paint job and given some of the fuckups along the way, I think it came out really nice. I think painting is therapeutic in the sense that you learn to forgive small errors and imperfections, and not let perfect get in the way of good.
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Your painting skills are great as always, man. Really made that Union Flag kit pop. Kinda makes me want to do a recolor of the Gremory despite having put a nice gloss coat on it already, but honestly after the Getter kit I'm burnt out on painting for a while. Might do some touch-ups and top coats, that's about it.
Your way of "forgiving small errors" is definitely for the best since its just model kits after all but honestly I might be a bit too autistic to do that lol For example I recently went back and spent, no joke, an hour or so repainting my Getter's tiny ass eyes. I think I did a decent enough job this time but I still feel like it's not good enough and I just know if I put my hand to it again I'm gonna screw it up and snap.
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Really like what you did with yours, though. How is that Eva Mechatro kit, anyway?
 
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@EyelessMC (i think thats how tagging someone works here) , the box says "WING GUNDAM ZERO EW" it has angel wings.
Hey, I just build the Ver Ka version of that kit. The legs are definitely the highlight, the way all the armor moves around reminds me of the flappy bits on actual airplanes. Though it also really highlights the difference between a model kit and an action figure… this thing was very clearly NOT meant to be played with, you’re supposed to just get it in a cool pose and leave it there.

@EyelessMC the Mechatro kit was pretty fun but it’s one of those kits that really NEEDS paint to not look like shit. Maybe the other colors are better but the bare yellow plastic just looks bad, no two ways around it. A lot of the aesthetic comes from the decals, which went on easier than I had imagined. Oh, they’re also horribly overpriced at $50 but I’m a massive Evafag so of course I bought all of them.

I was forced to take a week off work because I finally got the coof so I’ve actually built quite a few kits in the meantime…

- Wing Gundam Zero EW Ver Ka, as mentioned. Going to harvest the big wings for a custom MP Eva build. Honestly it looks better (and is much easier to handle) without the big wings anyways, the small wings suit it much better. I haven’t actually watched any Gundam, but there’s no way those wings make any sense in-universe.
- RG Eva 00, which will be used as the base for the MP Eva. It’s just random luck that I had the Eva 00 lying around, it’s the best candidate for this mod because it comes with extra parts to build a version without shoulder pylons and a standard chest piece. Already drilled holes in the back to mount the wings… the hardest part will be sculpting the head from scratch using epoxy putty. If that fails, I may try 3D printing it instead - I have much more experience making CAD models than real models, lol.
- Plaiobot Gurren Lagann… next kit I plan on painting, in metallic red, hopefully it’ll look something like this when it’s done.
- The cheap entry-grade RX-78. This kit is way better than it has any right being. I got the version with extra weapons for $13, it goes together in about 10 minutes and it’s fun to mess around with. I think there’s a Zaku too which I’ll definitely pick up if I find it at my local hobby store.

Currently building the RG Zeong. I was wondering why they didn’t make it an MG at first… until I started building it and realized how fucking huge it is even at the 1/144 scale. Its head alone is like double the size of a typical 1/100 head.

@Syn_32 i was considering picking up that dragon (the green and orange version), it’s surprisingly cheap for how fucking massive it is, but I ultimately passed because I just didn’t have the space for it. It’s certainly something alright.

Also had some lacquer paints come in, so I’m ready to destroy my lungs and the environment! I’ll finally get around to painting the Kotobukiya Eva-01 that I’ve had lying around in pieces for the longest time.
 
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@EyelessMC said
Never was a fan of working with resin but I might look into resin conversion parts at some point. What are some tips you can share?

I know how you feel, it's really easy for things to go sideways working with resin kits. I'm pretty green when it comes to resin myself, but I'm happy to share some of the tips I've learned from others or through personal errors. I've also linked some of the youtube channels of way more experienced modelers that I've gleaned insights from.

Order of construction and pre-assembly- Quality, documentation and durability is all over the place when it comes to resin kits, whether they're full standalone or conversion kits meant to be added to a base pvc/abs kit. Modern injection molded pvc/abs kits have really spoiled us with their precision, detail and ease of assembly compared to even the best cast resin kits. Best case with standalone resin kits will be the pegs and slots on individual pieces fit together with minimal fiddling and are capable of supporting the completed assembly. What's more common with even small kits is that building armature-like supports as well as drilling and installing rods for reinforcement will be necessary. Conversion kits are less likely to need as much supporting structure, depending on how they interact with the base pvc model, but they introduces challenges around how you need to modify the base pvc model to add on the conversion parts.

Reading through the assembly instructions and looking at every single piece to start visualizing the overall build is helpful with any type of kit whether it's resin or pvc. If you make it your standard practice with pvc kits you'll find yourself better prepared for resin. When I build a pvc kit, I prefer to paint and finish it in as many discrete parts as possible, and make my last step a final assembly. This is a personal preference more than a recommendation. This method requires figuring out which parts need to be assembled at the beginning vs which can be fully painted and finished and left for assembly at the end. Here's an example of what I mean by that:

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This is from the Dougram crab walker I posted earlier, and shows the construction of the lower thigh and upper knee. Parts D6 and D5 have an ugly exposed seam that'll show when they are put together, but the way D2, D1 and D8 come together and connect to the assembled D6/D5, there are no seams. So at the beginning, I assemble D6 and D5, and then use Tamiya putty to fill the seam and sand it down before primer. D2, D1 and D8 just get the assembly pegs masked over and then are finished individually, then all parts get assembled at the very end. I feel like this kind of proceduralizing of builds helps prepare me for resin kit builds. Playing around with kitbashing is also a great way to build skills that translate to resin kits.

Before you do anything else with a resin kit, see how the pieces all fit together. There is likely to be some trimming needed as well as filling of gaps and reinforcement. If you are building a conversion kit, what kind of modifications will you need to make to the pvc parts to fit the resin pieces on? Some kits may come with a template that you can use when cutting away parts from the pvc kit. If you're not sure how much really needs to be cut away, be conservative; you can cut more if you need to and that's a lot easier than having to fix it. These are the instructions from the Brick works kit I just posted. They're representative of the higher end instructions. The drawings are all to 1:1 scale with the parts, so I was able to use one of them as a template for cutting parts out of the pvc kit. A lot of kits may not have any instructions at all, or will just have some reference photos.
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Once you've got a gameplan, starting cleaning up the parts. All the usual stuff you do with pvc applies here too; sand down seams and imperfections, remove any flash. I haven't experienced it myself, but some surfaces may need to be sanded with a slightly rougher grit to help primer and paint stick. I only use acrylics because I hate the smell and excessive cleanup of other paint types. Resin sanding makes some pretty fine particulates, so it's a good idea to wear at least a construction n95 mask.

When everything looks good and you're ready to start assembling, dump all the resin parts in a container and give them a good scrubbing in water with dish liquid and a toothbrush. This will make sure all the particles are cleaned off and more importantly, the oil and other releasing agent residues that were left on the parts from the molding process are removed.

Assembly first pass and painting- If you have a good plan, this is the easiest part. The big difference in resin is you don't have the ease of assembly that the pegs of a pvc kit give you. I follow my general principle of only assembling what needs to be done before priming and painting. All of the other parts I know what to mask and what to leave bare based on the pre-work. Masking off assembly pegs and slots is important, as is doing it for surfaces that would come into contact with other parts that would cover them after assembly. Priming, painting and multiple coats of finishing sealer will add thickness, so I make sure to think about that so I can hopefully avoid fitting issues in final assembly.

Vallejo acrylic primer applied through an airbrush to all parts, then painted with an airbrush, or brush if necessary using Tamiya or Vallejo acrylics. If I'm going to do panel-lining or apply decals, follow up the paint with two coats of Mr. Hobby gloss. Panel line, then decals get applied. Two or three more coats of seal depending on the finish, it'll be flat, semi-gloss or gloss. After that, it's the final assembly. I've recently started taking a picture of all the paints and tools I plan to use for each model, so I have a reference to go back to later on. Wish I'd started doing that years ago. Here's an example of what I used for the Crab Gunner model I posted earlier. I decided not weather or use flat finish after I'd taken the photo and was well into it.
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I hope this was helpful. Like I said, I'm green and there are loads of better tips on youtube that components of can be useful or adapted to fit your own style. I wouldn't discourage anyone from trying resin kits, just make sure you're prepared for it. I'm still working up the nerve to build a resin conversion kit I bought several years ago. It's an RC Berg designed Votoms Bounty Dog that uses the Bandai 1/20 Votoms kits as a base. I've lost count of how many times I've cracked open that box intending to start it and then looked at the mounds of parts and shit instructions, only to pop it back on the shelf and do a regular kit or a fun little kitbash instead. Someday.
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Some of the youtube modelers I like for tips:
Interstellar Modeler
Frosted Snow
Night Shift
Model Chili
 
Finally got around to painting the resin figure that came with the Eva Mechatro. I’ve never really done small figurines like this before so it went smoother than I would’ve expected, though I didn’t exactly do anything fancy aside from an airbrushed gradient on the hair (it’s more obvious in person than in photos). I used a mix of Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics and hand-painted everything with a tiny brush. I tried to paint the eyes as well but didn’t have a small enough brush or steady enough hands, so I just ended up using the waterslide decals that came with the kit. Maybe one day after I’ve leveled up my hand painting skills I’ll give it another shot… lol. Just waiting for some wooden disks to come in so I can make a base for it.
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@Uziel Gal Where do you even buy stuff like resin detail parts and conversion kits? Are these one-off production runs you can only buy if you’re there for the drop? Also, I’ve been looking to get into MaK to try out the more traditional realistic/military aesthetic without being a boomer who paints, like, tanks and shit. Got any good kits to recommend as a starter?
 
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Where do you even buy stuff like resin detail parts and conversion kits? Are these one-off production runs you can only buy if you’re there for the drop? Also, I’ve been looking to get into MaK to try out the more traditional realistic/military aesthetic without being a boomer who paints, like, tanks and shit. Got any good kits to recommend as a starter?

My go-to for years to buy resin/conversion kits and MaK is Hobby Search There are definitely other sites out there like HLJ that others might recommend, but I've pretty much been buying models and toys exclusively from Hobby Search for years and I've never had an issue. The design of their site is a little on the clunky side but it gets the job done. They break model kits down into categories of Gundam Kit/etc, Military, and Model Car kit. Shipping is expensive but they pack things really well; I've gotten over a hundred shipments from them over the years and never had an issue. They also don't require payments on product reservations, you don't pay until it ships. Like most Japanese stores, they also have a bonus point system that's really simple, you just accumulate credit points for each purchase and can apply them to a future order with no minimum or max. I think the only rule is that you lose accumulated points if you don't make any purchases for more than a year.

Production runs of the resin kits are going to vary but will range from limited to really-limited. I take a couple minutes to check through the reserve, new, and restock tabs on Hobby Search pretty much every day. I don't think I've ever seen a kit I was interested have the reservations fill up on the first day, you've usually got a week or so to get in on it.

For MaK, I would recommend starting with any of the personal armor kits in 1/20. Sometimes there will be smaller scales like 1/35 models but I just find them to be too small. These are relatively simple kits and were what I started with. There are roughly three main categories of the personal armor, each with tons of variants.
-Armored Fighting Suits (AFS) - basically cannon-fodder
-Super Armored Fighting Suits (SAFS) - better suits, used by the mercenary forces
-Panzer Kampf Anzug (PKA) equivalent to the SAFS, used by the Strahl Democratic Republic

In stock MaK at Hobby Search

This gives me a good excuse to post pics of one of my favorite somewhat recent kitbashes I did to upgrade a Großer Hund to replace its manipulator hand with a gatling gun. The gatling gun, feed chute, delinker/feed mechanism and ammo backpack are from a Tomytec Little Armory kit. The vented deflector above the barrels is from a Gundam MG Gun Cannon kit.

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I finally finished my MG Freedom 2.0 after months of delay due to my wedding, vacation, and such. Bought it November last year, and just done applying the decals today.

As for the norm of SEED MG I've bought so far, it's very good. It has some gorgeous details for 2016 kit, even before I put the decals on.
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I paint some gray on a few white parts. Don't know why, but I love the color mecha gray.

It has some dry decals which is very cool and quite fun to apply. Just be careful when applying some decals on the wings, because some parts are a bit flimsy.

And while on the topics of the wings, I'm amazed by the articulations and their detailed look. I think half of the coolness factor of this kit came from the wings themselves.
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The kit came with a stand that fit into the backpack. Not the best kind of stand, but any free stand is appreciated. Since Freedom is mainly an airborne suit, and this kit is quite back heavy, the stand is quite helpful, if not necessary, to make some dynamic poses.
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i went to my closest hobby lobby yesterday and picked up two gundams
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i wanted a zaku but the only ones they had were a g frame which didn't have a scale attached to it and a red one that i thought looked really ugly , so i picked up this lad , fun little kit and im getting to test out weathering that otherwise i couldn't do on armor models.
I also got a RX-78-2 , gonna build him later today , in total i spent 20 bucks for both and im very happy with them.

Now i have a gunpla addiction that i can't fufil since none of the online stores i buy from carry them , very sad day.
 
I finally finished my MG Freedom 2.0 after months of delay due to my wedding, vacation, and such. Bought it November last year, and just done applying the decals today.

As for the norm of SEED MG I've bought so far, it's very good. It has some gorgeous details for 2016 kit, even before I put the decals on.
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I paint some gray on a few white parts. Don't know why, but I love the color mecha gray.

It has some dry decals which is very cool and quite fun to apply. Just be careful when applying some decals on the wings, because some parts are a bit flimsy.

And while on the topics of the wings, I'm amazed by the articulations and their detailed look. I think half of the coolness factor of this kit came from the wings themselves.
View attachment 2924251
The kit came with a stand that fit into the backpack. Not the best kind of stand, but any free stand is appreciated. Since Freedom is mainly an airborne suit, and this kit is quite back heavy, the stand is quite helpful, if not necessary, to make some dynamic poses.
Damn, the finished product looks great!
Adding some very grey to break up the white. In general adding a very slightly different shade of the same color just makes kits look better, I feel.
i went to my closest hobby lobby yesterday and picked up two gundams
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i wanted a zaku but the only ones they had were a g frame which didn't have a scale attached to it and a red one that i thought looked really ugly , so i picked up this lad , fun little kit and im getting to test out weathering that otherwise i couldn't do on armor models.
I also got a RX-78-2 , gonna build him later today , in total i spent 20 bucks for both and im very happy with them.

Now i have a gunpla addiction that i can't fufil since none of the online stores i buy from carry them , very sad day.
You in the US? Between USA Gundam Store, BBTS and Newtype I can find most of the stuff I want.
 
Damn, the finished product looks great!
Adding some very grey to break up the white. In general adding a very slightly different shade of the same color just makes kits look better, I feel.

You in the US? Between USA Gundam Store, BBTS and Newtype I can find most of the stuff I want.
ill probably check out BBTS , seems like the best choice for me , i try to limit how many stores i order from so i don't have 80 different sites with my info that can get compromised

Got the RX-78 finished , need to do a wash and some weathering but it looks really cool straight from the box
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I've been building models for many years now, mostly WWII armor, but I recently picked up some Gundam kits as I want a change of pace and subject. Here's some of my WWII stuff-

https://kiwifarms.net/threads/colle...iews-and-discussion-thread.7077/post-10855165

I have the PG 1/60 RX-78 GP01/Fb and the 1/60 PG W-Gundam Zero Custom. Also picked up the 1/100 MG RX-78 and 1/100 Zaku II. I've started building the 1/100 RX-78 and I've got to say I'm impressed with the kit quality and engineering. Though they're molded in proper colors, I'll be painting and weathering my kits.

The 1/60 RX-78 is so big the box is the size of a suitcase and it has a carry handle. Lots and lots of stuff in the two inner boxes. Beautiful stuff. I'll post pics when I finish up the one I'm currently working on.
 
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