- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
I wonder what makes it better than the S. Destiny? I like Destiny's design more than Freedom's but haven't considered buying either of the new HGs.
Anyone into gunpla - Japanophiles unite to share tips on painting our toys (GUNPLA IS FREEDOM)
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- Joined
- Dec 17, 2019
Well after a feverish haze of building (coinciding with watching all of Gundam Wing, 08th MS Team, and a chunk of Gundam X), I've finished both Penelope and Xi. Detailing will come later, gonna take a bit of a break.
The kits will definitely not disappoint if you're looking for something big. It's honestly hilarious posing them next to an early UC kit like the original Gundam, they utterly dwarf early suits. Even compared to my MGs, they're still pretty huge, Penelope especially. I shudder to think what a 1/100 scale of either of these would look like.
The builds were fine, I didn't really feel like I was in danger of breaking anything, even with attaching the FF unit to the Odysseus Gundam. The only tricky parts for me were assembling the individual FF pieces, as there were a lot of pegs that needed to line up and it felt a little risky to try and force them. But it all came together nicely in the end, breathed a sigh of relief after that.
Personal preference leans more towards the Xi since it's all-in-one and feels sturdier, but both certainly catch the eye, and I enjoyed building each one. If you see one at Hobby Lobby, I'd recommend picking it up (40% off sale is this week). I haven't put on any of the stickers yet, I'm thinking I'm going to get some paints and use those for the accents instead. Also got some waterslides for some extra detail that I think they need, it's a lot of blank space on them otherwise.
The kits will definitely not disappoint if you're looking for something big. It's honestly hilarious posing them next to an early UC kit like the original Gundam, they utterly dwarf early suits. Even compared to my MGs, they're still pretty huge, Penelope especially. I shudder to think what a 1/100 scale of either of these would look like.
The builds were fine, I didn't really feel like I was in danger of breaking anything, even with attaching the FF unit to the Odysseus Gundam. The only tricky parts for me were assembling the individual FF pieces, as there were a lot of pegs that needed to line up and it felt a little risky to try and force them. But it all came together nicely in the end, breathed a sigh of relief after that.
Personal preference leans more towards the Xi since it's all-in-one and feels sturdier, but both certainly catch the eye, and I enjoyed building each one. If you see one at Hobby Lobby, I'd recommend picking it up (40% off sale is this week). I haven't put on any of the stickers yet, I'm thinking I'm going to get some paints and use those for the accents instead. Also got some waterslides for some extra detail that I think they need, it's a lot of blank space on them otherwise.
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2022
Finally decided to paint my gunpla because Barbatos Lupus Rex isn't color accurate to the anime, currently stumped with getting a recipe for metallic white. I've heard that just gloss varnish looks okay enough but I'm not sold on the idea, mostly because there's a color accurate enough metallic paint for everything else and it'd look off if only the white looks non metallic.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
If you can get your hands on it, I think Mr. Hobby has a really bright silver in their GX line of paints. You can try mixing a little of that with the shade of white you want (just make sure the base is darker to compensate for the bright silver). I think Mr. Hobby also makes just a metallic white paint itself.
WhimsicalTrolli
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2019
Hey guys, I'm not a gunpla builder but I build minipla based on Super Sentai/power ranger seasons. Gingaioh/lost galaxy megazord is getting a model kit release.
I do have questions, I want to eventually paint my models I haven't built yet. So I would love to hear thoughts & opinions on primer, paints, palette pads & other painting essentials.
I do have questions, I want to eventually paint my models I haven't built yet. So I would love to hear thoughts & opinions on primer, paints, palette pads & other painting essentials.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
I don't know the scale of these kits but in general an airbrush is good for applying primer and paint in general. Mr. Hobby has good starter airbrushes and Wave sells a compressor/airbrush combo kit with a starter airbrush. Iwata makes the good stuff, though.
I swear by Mr. Hobby products so their paints, primers, thinners (Mr. Leveling Thinner can be used on acrylic and enamel), and their other painting products are all top quality. I use Tamiya masking tape instead of Mr. Hobby's liquid masker.
WhimsicalTrolli
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2019
I think they are 6 inch scale. So far the scale of a marvel legends/wwe elite figure.
I'm mostly thinking of paintbrushing. What do you think of vallejo?
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
Vallejo is a trusted brand I think. I've used a few of their effect paints (oil in particular). For acrylics, I'd still go with Mr. Hobby out of personal preference. Mr. Hobby also makes a wide range of paint brushes.
WhimsicalTrolli
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2019
Is Mr surfacer a subbrand of Mr hobby?
DDBCAE CBAADCBE
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2019
If by gunpla you mean Gundam Model kits, yes. I used to collect them when I was in high school but I haven’t built any in years. I did play a video game based on Gunpla not too long ago though. Gundam Breaker I think.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
Yes, and I use the 1200.
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2019
Bandai's been doing various announcements of kits coming later this year as well as showing off some prototypes, and there are some interesting ones coming down the line:
I'm definitely excited about the Bolinoak Sammahn and Psycho Gundam Mk-II, though, both of which I've wanted Gunpla of ever since I saw them. I was always disappointed that the former had been skipped over for some reason, but good things come to those who wait. And I swear I will find some place to display the Mk-II, I need that big purple beast.
- Two HGs from the Requiem for Vengeance movie, the Gundam EX and the Zaku II Solari (notable for having exceptionally detailed panel lines)
- HG AoZ Hi-Zack, recolor of the previously released Hobby Hi-Zack (P-Bandai only, though)
- HG Bolinoak Sammahn and Psycho Gundam Mk-II
- RG RX-78-2 2.0, for those of you that needed yet another Gramps
I'm definitely excited about the Bolinoak Sammahn and Psycho Gundam Mk-II, though, both of which I've wanted Gunpla of ever since I saw them. I was always disappointed that the former had been skipped over for some reason, but good things come to those who wait. And I swear I will find some place to display the Mk-II, I need that big purple beast.
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2019
No idea how active this thread gets but I had a question that maybe someone here can answer re: topcoating.
I usually grab a cheap HG to practice a new skill and I'm about to finally practice topcoating. I have an RG FA Unicorn in my backlog and was just wondering how to topcoat this thing without fogging up the psycho-frame. I intend to gloss > panel line and decals > matte finish. Would it be safe enough to topcoat it in Unicorn mode or would some topcoat get through to the psycho-frame?
I usually grab a cheap HG to practice a new skill and I'm about to finally practice topcoating. I have an RG FA Unicorn in my backlog and was just wondering how to topcoat this thing without fogging up the psycho-frame. I intend to gloss > panel line and decals > matte finish. Would it be safe enough to topcoat it in Unicorn mode or would some topcoat get through to the psycho-frame?
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2016
I topcoated my rg banshee in unicorn mode, it turned out pretty well.
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2020
Clear plastic gets cloudy, always try to mask if you can. Unicorn mode isnt tight enough and you risk streaks of coating getting on it. Masking is a pretty important skill so it may be a good chance to learn it.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
Call me crazy but I top coat pieces individually like I do painting the parts. Never had a piece end up more top coated than others. It does take a long time but you don't have to worry about masking joints and the psycho frame.
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2019
Yeah, that's what I've read, which is why I figured I'd ask for sure. Guess I'll look up some masking videos and get into it. Better to go ahead and learn.
I considered that too. Do you topcoat and panel line right on the runners or go ahead and snip and sand everything first?
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
I don't completely understand why people do paint work on the runners. Sure, it may be faster but wherever he mold was cut in to allow the plastic to flow into the mold (why we have nub marks) would leave bare stressed plastic and that would need to be painted if it's visible. My build method takes longer but it ensures each part is ready to be painted.
I do a preliminary build to check where paint will/will not be seen. Before painting and the final build I:
- Clean up nub marks/parting lines by knife/sanding as I do the preliminary build.
- Glue appropriate parts together and clean them after 24hrs of the glue setting (also done during the preliminary build).
- After cleaning up nub marks and glue lines I do any custom panel line scribing. Clean the pieces after this.
- Do a final check while the kit is built (take pictures and annotate the picture with why/what's being captured).
- Disassemble to prime, then apply the color, then the top coat to each individual piece.
If you're applying waterslides, I was given advice on how. After priming and applying your intended color, apply gloss topcoat. Then, place your waterslides on top of the gloss topcoat, allow to dry, and then topcoat with the opaqueness you desire. The gloss top coat hides the edges of the waterslides pretty well. Alternatively, you can use Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer by GSI Creos. Those work just as well and don't require the layer of gloss topcoat.
- Clean up nub marks/parting lines by knife/sanding as I do the preliminary build.
- Glue appropriate parts together and clean them after 24hrs of the glue setting (also done during the preliminary build).
- After cleaning up nub marks and glue lines I do any custom panel line scribing. Clean the pieces after this.
- Do a final check while the kit is built (take pictures and annotate the picture with why/what's being captured).
- Disassemble to prime, then apply the color, then the top coat to each individual piece.
If you're applying waterslides, I was given advice on how. After priming and applying your intended color, apply gloss topcoat. Then, place your waterslides on top of the gloss topcoat, allow to dry, and then topcoat with the opaqueness you desire. The gloss top coat hides the edges of the waterslides pretty well. Alternatively, you can use Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer by GSI Creos. Those work just as well and don't require the layer of gloss topcoat.
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2020
Bandai I dont care if its a MGEX or P Bandai or whatever. Give us a Snow White Prelude PLEASE!
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- Joined
- Sep 24, 2019
So, just completed my first topcoat ever and pretty pleased with the results. I bought an HG Mk.II (Titans color) because I was interested in testing matte on a dark kit. Process was build > Gloss coat > Panel lines/decals > Matte coat. Since I'm still a definite beginner, I have been panel lining up until now with Gundam Markers, so the gloss coat was to protect the plastic since I panel lined this time with Tamiya Accent Liner.
Some thoughts and questions:
1) Think on some of these older kits I need to re-scribe some of the panel lines. Didn't seem deep enough for the Tamiya accent liner and the lines would just wipe off when I was doing cleanup.
2) Didn't know what color to use for black plastic. Maybe a light grey? What do you guys normally panel line solid black plastic with?
3) I used Tamiya TS-13 for the gloss coat and it seemed to work well. The matte coat was Mr. Top Coat Flat. I waited for a nice, sunny day and didn't have any frosting or other issues whatsoever. It was a lot more simple than I expected and I think I was anxious over nothing all this time.
On a side note, the Mk. II is such a a cool, classic, basic design. I am tempted to grab the MG from my local Hobby Lobby since they're doing 40% off all kits right now.
Bonus pic of the build I just finished, MG Char's Zaku. Weather here is shit for the next few days so I won't be topcoating or panel lining it for a bit.
Some thoughts and questions:
1) Think on some of these older kits I need to re-scribe some of the panel lines. Didn't seem deep enough for the Tamiya accent liner and the lines would just wipe off when I was doing cleanup.
2) Didn't know what color to use for black plastic. Maybe a light grey? What do you guys normally panel line solid black plastic with?
3) I used Tamiya TS-13 for the gloss coat and it seemed to work well. The matte coat was Mr. Top Coat Flat. I waited for a nice, sunny day and didn't have any frosting or other issues whatsoever. It was a lot more simple than I expected and I think I was anxious over nothing all this time.
On a side note, the Mk. II is such a a cool, classic, basic design. I am tempted to grab the MG from my local Hobby Lobby since they're doing 40% off all kits right now.
Bonus pic of the build I just finished, MG Char's Zaku. Weather here is shit for the next few days so I won't be topcoating or panel lining it for a bit.