Anyone into gunpla - Japanophiles unite to share tips on painting our toys (GUNPLA IS FREEDOM)

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anyways, my hatred for testors aside, with the chauvin trial ending, i cant order from galactic toys anymore, because theyre based in michigan, which will likely burn again, and i dont want to risk my shipment being looted. as well, the nice hobby shop near me will probably get hit again :(

are you guys worried about this kind of shit happening or am i just schizophrenic
 
How are these cheap 30 Minute Mission kits from Bandai? Any interesting mechanics and articulation, or are they HGUC quality?
The big complaint I have heard is that the joints loosen over time, so a few months after a build they kind of fall apart. But I dont own any personally so I cant really say if this is true or not.

Even if it is true, some glue would probably be all that is needed and they are very cheap kits for the most part.
 
anyways, my hatred for testors aside, with the chauvin trial ending, i cant order from galactic toys anymore, because theyre based in michigan, which will likely burn again, and i dont want to risk my shipment being looted. as well, the nice hobby shop near me will probably get hit again :(

are you guys worried about this kind of shit happening or am i just schizophrenic
After they burnt down that historic bookshop full of one-of-a-kind books signed by long dead authors I wouldn't put it past them to target random unrelated hobby shops. Better hope those shops have taken precaution and not just assumed they won't be targeted.
 
USA Gundam Store seems to have re-stocked a lot of their Mr. Color lacquers with a pretty decent chunk of the basic colors available, if anyone is interested in picking up a small set. I might actually just pick up a set of Studio G's G-paint, which seems to be getting decent reviews. Not having to buy a bunch of small cans is definitely a benefit in my eyes if you don't mind mixing paint, and even when you account for the fact that it's pre-thinned, it's actually still a better value than Mr. Color.

Recently had a bunch of preorders finally come in and I impulse-bought these two kits to pad out the shipment (thank you BBTS $4 flat-rate shipping). I kinda liked the look of them and figured that they wouldn't be available for long, which... yeah, they're out of stock everywhere now. Once again I've acquired a sizable backlog that I swear I'll get through once I finally get some lacquer paints...
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Re-asking the question
If it's only for meme material then I'd say "No". That's pretty pricey just for a meme. But if you like it on its own then the meme pics you could make with it adds to the value. Especially with faces like this...
lol.jpg
begging for it.jpg
BEGGING.jpg

Slutty battle-horny android nun is priceless.

the owner doesnt actually keep any stock on hand, he just orders it as he needs, it.
In my eternal hunt for an HG ZZ Gundam it feels like every hobby store does this, but I get what you mean
hes also just all around a faggot, and gets pissy if people criticize him
lol Any clips or something? I don't doubt it since it's the Internet after all.

That said, I found out USAGundam store has an $11 flat rate shipping. LunarToyStore is $5 and BigBadToyStore has $4. I think USAG tries to make up for it with discounts via their youtube guy and on their store but that's just fake discounts then.

Speaking of false discounts
what a deal.png
 
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If it's only for meme material then I'd say "No". That's pretty pricey just for a meme. But if you like it on its own then the meme pics you could make with it adds to the value. Especially with faces like this...
View attachment 2124683View attachment 2124684View attachment 2124685
Slutty battle-horny android nun is priceless.

I like the armor design, especially the shins. but the joints are meh and really take me out of the illusion.
Though helps to be reminded she is an android. so its not that bad.

Would definitely make cooler weapons and armor accessories for her since those guns look stupid as hell.


I just might get her.
That is if I can find one.
 
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the owner doesnt actually keep any stock on hand, he just orders it as he needs, it.
hes also just all around a faggot, and gets pissy if people criticize him
Damn that's a shame. My dad JUST ordered my brother some LBX model kits from there. I don't know much about them myself since I'm still a newbie to the hobby. I guess i'll make sure everything comes safely then for him.

This time when I go to the store I AM GOING TO FIND AN ACTUAL BEGINER SET. Family shit happened and I gave my brother my Char zaku to get his mind off stuff and I was pretty surprised how fast it took him to put it together. Course, now it's my job to sand off the nubs since the madman just snapped the pieces out of the grid and went to town but I don't blame him. Will say I am a little disappointed he got to put it together before I did but he needed it more than I did. Nothing broke, I just gotta paint it when I have time. I was also surprised in the size of it and it actually held together.
Since I finished 0079 and i'm like 22ish episodes into ZETA I finally have a selection of shit I like like RX-75-4 Guntank, RX-77-2 Gun cannon, and the MSN-00100 Hyaku Shiki.

Forgive me asking, but do the numbers really mean anything? Or does it help define the era from which show it was from?
 
I like the armor design, especially the shins. but the joints are meh and really take me out of the illusion.
Though helps to be reminded she is an android. so its not that bad.
Yeah the android part is what makes it alright to me, too. If you do end up getting it make sure to post posing pics or a review in this thread.
And a change of weapons would be very cool, although I think her weapons are supposed to be modular in that you can snap-connect them like a Frame Arms kit and do other stuff with them. No idea, though.

Family shit happened and I gave my brother my Char zaku to get his mind off stuff
You're a good brother 🫂
the MSN-00100 Hyaku Shiki.
and you've got great aesthetic
Forgive me asking, but do the numbers really mean anything? Or does it help define the era from which show it was from?
I'm pretty sure they partly define the base model type, hence why all the RX variants have similar designs. In fact, a lot of the UC aesthetic is similar and that's on purpose. It's not only for nostalgia but also to show the natural in-world progression of technological design, like how a tanks and planes don't just get advanced into a flying beatle or robo-eagle but rather still resemble their predecessor in their fundamental aesthetic. The numbers and letters typically reflect that, I think.
Pretty sure Star Trek has a similar approach to its ships. It's pretty common SciFi stuff.

As for what the "R" and "X" mean in RX or something like that, I have no idea. It's probably fleshed out in a novel or something.
 
Yeah the android part is what makes it alright to me, too. If you do end up getting it make sure to post posing pics or a review in this thread.
And a change of weapons would be very cool, although I think her weapons are supposed to be modular in that you can snap-connect them like a Frame Arms kit and do other stuff with them. No idea, though.


You're a good brother 🫂

and you've got great aesthetic

I'm pretty sure they partly define the base model type, hence why all the RX variants have similar designs. In fact, a lot of the UC aesthetic is similar and that's on purpose. It's not only for nostalgia but also to show the natural in-world progression of technological design, like how a tanks and planes don't just get advanced into a flying beatle or robo-eagle but rather still resemble their predecessor in their fundamental aesthetic. The numbers and letters typically reflect that, I think.
Pretty sure Star Trek has a similar approach to its ships. It's pretty common SciFi stuff.

As for what the "R" and "X" mean in RX or something like that, I have no idea. It's probably fleshed out in a novel or something.

In star trek only the NCC (Naval construction contract) really matters. It can be just about any number as that's what the engineering schematic of the ship is called. Its the same thing for Gunpla and most other sci fi series.

NX- typically means an experimental design.

Though Japan uses " TYPE" instead of "MARK/Variant" for their iterations of designs. Its just a minor cultural difference.

Looking for places to get a Bullet Knight Exorcist kit since it seems sold out in most places.
As well as asking for suggestions for paint to add detail to the armor plating.
 
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In star trek only the NCC (Naval construction contract) really matters. It can be just about any number as that's what the engineering schematic of the ship is called. Its the same thing for Gunpla and most other sci fi series.

Though Japan uses " TYPE" instead of "MARK/Variant" for their iterations of designs. Its just a minor cultural difference.

Looking for places to get a Bullet Knight Exorcist kit since it seems sold out in most places.
As well as asking for suggestions for paint to add detail to the armor plating.
For minor detailing--which is the main fun after building and probably what you mean--I'd say simple Panel Liner Gundam markers. Use black for dark colors (like black or blackish blue). Use gray for white and most everything else. Brown for yellow or orange colors typically but it's up to you. Panel Liner markers are fantastic, lasts quite a while (the markers I mean, their applications are perfect and will stick mostly forever in a crevice), easy to use, non-toxic (unless you lick it off your finger) and are the cheapest of any detailing tool you'll ever purchase. Even when the tips get frizzy or start to break you can still use them like shaders as they then give a kind of smokey aesthetic. Great stuff and pretty universal for ages in application. Shouldn't be more than $10-15 with shipping and tax.

Tamiya spray paint if you want to go for a full recolor of the kit OR if you just want a top coat for some reason. 100% Nothing else compares. The finish, the longevity, the beautiful way it hugs neatly to every minute crevice, it's all just so good. But get the TS series ones since any other is supposedly dangerous or something for Gunpla plastic (I used it on a Kotobukiya kit and haven't seen issues yet but still, better safe than sorry).

Acrylic paint markers are really good and cheaper, too, but if you don't use a top coat (like Tamiya Pearl Clear or Matte (matte is magic but spray it lightly with multiple coats after panel lining) they start to wear easy. They're good replacements for sticker decals on HG kits, though.
But they're not as great in coverage as sprays, but they are less toxic than sprays. Gundam Paint Markers, particularly the metallic ones, are the worst and dim or run if you use any kind of top coat on them. I hear primer can help with that.

But you don't need primer. You're not jumping into big league paint jobs like some of the Admirals in this thread. You're just an Ensign, like me, so don't do what I did and instead just stick to Panel Lining and simple top coating until you get the urge for spray paints or markers or whatever.
Also don't boil your kit.
 
For minor detailing--which is the main fun after building and probably what you mean--I'd say simple Panel Liner Gundam markers. Use black for dark colors (like black or blackish blue). Use gray for white and most everything else. Brown for yellow or orange colors typically but it's up to you. Panel Liner markers are fantastic, lasts quite a while (the markers I mean, their applications are perfect and will stick mostly forever in a crevice), easy to use, non-toxic (unless you lick it off your finger) and are the cheapest of any detailing tool you'll ever purchase. Even when the tips get frizzy or start to break you can still use them like shaders as they then give a kind of smokey aesthetic. Great stuff and pretty universal for ages in application. Shouldn't be more than $10-15 with shipping and tax.

Tamiya spray paint if you want to go for a full recolor of the kit OR if you just want a top coat for some reason. 100% Nothing else compares. The finish, the longevity, the beautiful way it hugs neatly to every minute crevice, it's all just so good. But get the TS series ones since any other is supposedly dangerous or something for Gunpla plastic (I used it on a Kotobukiya kit and haven't seen issues yet but still, better safe than sorry).

Acrylic paint markers are really good and cheaper, too, but if you don't use a top coat (like Tamiya Pearl Clear or Matte (matte is magic but spray it lightly with multiple coats after panel lining) they start to wear easy. They're good replacements for sticker decals on HG kits, though.
But they're not as great in coverage as sprays, but they are less toxic than sprays. Gundam Paint Markers, particularly the metallic ones, are the worst and dim or run if you use any kind of top coat on them. I hear primer can help with that.

But you don't need primer. You're not jumping into big league paint jobs like some of the Admirals in this thread. You're just an Ensign, like me, so don't do what I did and instead just stick to Panel Lining and simple top coating until you get the urge for spray paints or markers or whatever.
Also don't boil your kit.

That makes a lot more sense now. Also assumed by default that priming the entire kit would be a no go since I am no expert at painting and applying decals especially not with the face.

what do you mean by "boil?" you mean autists have actually put kits in a pot of boiling water to remove paint? :story:
Not surprising retards would try that.
 
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