Anyone into gunpla - Japanophiles unite to share tips on painting our toys (GUNPLA IS FREEDOM)

[EyelessMC]

Spoiler: Wherein I Ramble on 2hrs of Sleep about Unicorn & Hathaway

So today I re-discovered that Gundam Unicorn is not canon, at least not when it comes to Tomino-led Gundam projects...which is most of it. Unicorn's novel series wasn't originally written by Tomino so it makes sense. It became immensely popular (for good reason) and was made into that famed OVA series, then anime, so it was inducted into canon like certain manga additions to Char's history. This is why the tech disparity exists and why things get completely nuts by the time Narrative comes around.

It's also why Hathaway's Flash is so important as it not only adapts a novel series which doesn't follow the exact events of the theatrical Char's Counter Attack film (despite being a sequel) but it especially doesn't have anything to do with Gundam Unicorn in its entirety, or so I think. This makes a lot of sense since it explains why we went from greater advancements in technology and psychic power to suddenly super-crystal psycho frames, potential time travel and then in Narrative where a little girl's soul is inside the ultimate(?) Unicorn known as the Phenex. What an insane leap, but then suddenly we're back to Gundams only being able to zip-zoom through the air because of bulky particle technology?

The ZZ Gundam in its final fight was literally melting as it channeled raw psychic connection of Newtypes into particle beams. I didn't find that as difficult to enjoy as the Unicorn's third tier power leveling. Universal Century always had that threefold connection of Technology (Minovsky Particles, etc), the Supernatural/religious (Souls, afterlife, etc.) and the bridge between them being Newtype psychic power and connection. It's what joins the semi-grounded SciFi elements to the more ethereal concepts of the setting. However that's why the Unicorn felt out of place to me, even if it did give us ultimate best girl Marida (the last great puru).

TL;DR I know Hathaway's Flash is gonna be rough and dark with a very signature Tomino ending, and Unicorn was far more hopeful ultimately, but I'm just glad to have more tech stuff back and also I'm heavily sleep deprived and someone ITT probably told me all this already and I was asspained about how great Banagher is when my boy Kamille, apex Newtype, got done so dirty by a last minute gambit from a forgettable jackass and was literally never mentioned again. Unicorn is great in just about every way but it's not my kinda Gundam UC. Not its combat, not its abandonment of the scifi elements for basically space magic right into Narrative, and the characters are really good but it was just different and I don't like things that are dif

That makes a lot more sense now. Also assumed by default that priming the entire kit would be a no go since I am no expert at painting and applying decals especially not with the face.

Waterslide decals are easy to get the hang of once you figure out that you can use a toothpick or Q-tip to dab some water on the surface before application and then use the dry end of the Q-tip to gently soak up the water.

what do you mean by "boil?" you mean autists have actually put kits in a pot of boiling water to remove paint?
Not surprising retards would try that.

lol Yeah, what a total retard, haha... But thankfully it proved the posters ITT are a great help, have clever ideas and you can always count on some of them bullying you teaching you something.

 

[Gar For Archer]

Generally speaking, you’re not gonna be adding much detail with just paint. Panel lining is great for accenting detail that’s already there, but actually ADDING detail is much more complicated and usually involves scribing your own panel lines, chiseling, and extending with plastic sheet.

The main thing paint is good for (aside from recoloring parts, obviously) is hiding the obvious plasticky appearance of the parts, which makes it look less like a plastic toy and more like a proper model. It also lets you add more color variation than the base plastic - one thing I’ve found that helps model kits “pop” a bit more and look more realistic is to use a bunch of distinct but similar shades. For example, you might want to use two shades of red with one very slightly darker than the other, or use multiple shades of grey instead of using only high-contrast colors.

 

[Syn_32]

Sorry for my absence I've kinda been in an emotional slump but I tried to sand down the nubs on zeong and put some of the decals on (the sanding down was kinda done by exacto because it was (in my opinion) too risky to pull apart brute force wise) the decals were a special hell because they were super tiny but I should have expected that but I managed to get a few on before losing a few and going "Fuck It!" Anyway, I ordered another real grade, the Crossbone Gundam X1, which, whenever the person ships it, should arrive sometime within a week or 2. So here is Zeong along with my other Gundams!

I know it barely looks sanded properly, so next time I will actually take my time (I keep thinking I have to do it during sun up hours but I do have a better light source now so I can do it during night time too)

 

[EyelessMC]

I know it barely looks sanded properly, so next time I will actually take my time (I keep thinking I have to do it during sun up hours but I do have a better light source now so I can do it during night time too)

Crossbone Gundam RG is an amazing kit but a living nightmare to put together because of how small the parts are on an already small kit. It'll be worthwhile in the end, though. You should take the time to listen to good music or some fun stuff, maybe an audio book, and just enter a fun relaxing time panel lining the Zeong. It's incredibly detailed with all the marks and crevices that will pop once you put some fine ink in there. It's almost meditative for me to panel line like that, honestly.
Also I still like that Guyver Heavy Arms you did.

Generally speaking, you’re not gonna be adding much detail with just paint. Panel lining is great for accenting detail that’s already there, but actually ADDING detail is much more complicated and usually involves scribing your own panel lines, chiseling, and extending with plastic sheet.

Good point technically it's emphasizing details that exist rather than adding new ones. Still, it's basically adding detail if the physical detailing is all but invisible without panel lining, like the Kotobikiya Tora model I posted about a couple pages back.
The only time I ever etched a kit (so far) was with the MG Zeta Gundam's face lines since the out-of-box head has crevices too shallow for the ink to fit tightly inside, so I had to etch them deeper. Fair warning to those who want to get a MG Zeta.

For example, you might want to use two shades of red with one very slightly darker than the other, or use multiple shades of grey instead of using only high-contrast colors.

Great point! I forgot about this one. This is really important and looks great and professional. Just have to make sure the two shades aren't too drastically different otherwise it can look checkered, unless it fits the aesthetic you're going for.

 

[Syn_32]

Crossbone Gundam RG is an amazing kit but a living nightmare to put together because of how small the parts are on an already small kit. It'll be worthwhile in the end, though. You should take the time to listen to good music or some fun stuff, maybe an audio book, and just enter a fun relaxing time panel lining the Zeong. It's incredibly detailed with all the marks and crevices that will pop once you put some fine ink in there. It's almost meditative for me to panel line like that, honestly.
Also I still like that Guyver Heavy Arms you did.


Good point technically it's emphasizing details that exist rather than adding new ones. Still, it's basically adding detail if the physical detailing is all but invisible without panel lining, like the Kotobikiya Tora model I posted about a couple pages back.
The only time I ever etched a kit (so far) was with the MG Zeta Gundam's face lines since the out-of-box head has crevices too shallow for the ink to fit tightly inside, so I had to etch them deeper. Fair warning to those who want to get a MG Zeta.

Great point! I forgot about this one. This is really important and looks great and professional. Just have to make sure the two shades aren't too drastically different otherwise it can look checkered, unless it fits the aesthetic you're going for.

Yes, I'm not scared of small parts, and thanks for the suggestions and yea I'm still happy with how the Heavyarms Guyver Gundam came out too (the rubbery feel makes it feel more organic than normal)

 

[Antarctic Hellbeast]

Generally speaking, you’re not gonna be adding much detail with just paint. Panel lining is great for accenting detail that’s already there, but actually ADDING detail is much more complicated and usually involves scribing your own panel lines, chiseling, and extending with plastic sheet.

It makes sense to accent the small crevices to make it look less toy-like.

Though I have some armor parts I modeled and can 3D print. physical, non stenciled, Paneling isn't hard to make but from trying to superglue armor parts of it onto my Sci Fi ship prints, Not recommended, and wound up just re-printing the ship with the armor plates already on. It looks okay and stays there with superglue, but never fit flesh to the model just like in the modeling software. Never wound up doing anything catastrophic like some folks besides the saucer of the ship coming off once or twice until I got the hang of printing tree supports instead of solid ones. Was thinking something like the Hunter's shoulder pads from the Last wish raid armor pool and putting my own spin on it to fit the kit. Since I've already modeled a spear/staff for her. Just have to print it.

Just need the measurements for the arm and hat on that kit because those horns are ugly. would that be a good idea to just design custom parts that clip on or fit into the connecting parts of each piece to minimize any problems?

Sorry for my absence I've kinda been in an emotional slump but I tried to sand down the nubs on zeong and put some of the decals on (the sanding down was kinda done by exacto because it was (in my opinion) too risky to pull apart brute force wise) the decals were a special hell because they were super tiny but I should have expected that but I managed to get a few on before losing a few and going "Fuck It!" Anyway, I ordered another real grade, the Crossbone Gundam X1, which, whenever the person ships it, should arrive sometime within a week or 2. So here is Zeong along with my other Gundams!
View attachment 2131354
I know it barely looks sanded properly, so next time I will actually take my time (I keep thinking I have to do it during sun up hours but I do have a better light source now so I can do it during night time too)

Would posting pictures like these count as powerleveling?
Not accusing them of doing that.
Just confused on the definition since some threads have the "NO POWERLEVELING" rule and others I assume expect you to keep that in mind.

 

[EyelessMC]

It makes sense to accent the small crevices to make it look less toy-like.

Though I have some armor parts I modeled and can 3D print.

How much do those things cost overall, machine and materials included? I want to start 3D printing stuff that can be very useful in the future. Nothing illegal obviously. Just a wife , you know. Minor stuff.

Would posting pictures like these count as powerleveling?

No, not unless it contained info that could reveal his identity. Power leveling is when you dox yourself by using specific names and locations that can be traced back to you. Like I can say I live in Newark but I won't say it's on Maple Drive between Oderman and Martin Luther Blvd or that I'm the guy who always walks around in an orange hat and live on the second floor--and then post a city view from my window. That would be begging for trouble. Just hide your details and practice safe Internet exposure.

Spoiler: ALSO THIS!

I suggest everyone use this before uploading pics taken from their cellphones: http://www.verexif.com/en/
Remove Exif is the option.

 

[Antarctic Hellbeast]

How much do those things cost overall, machine and materials included? I want to start 3D printing stuff that can be very useful in the future. Nothing illegal obviously. Just a wife , you know. Minor stuff.

No, not unless it contained info that could reveal his identity. Power leveling is when you dox yourself by using specific names and locations that can be traced back to you. Like I can say I live in Newark but I won't say it's on Maple Drive between Oderman and Martin Luther Blvd. That would be begging for trouble. Just hide your details and practice safe Internet exposure.

It costs under $500 overall. Most printers that are worth anything are in the 300-500 price range and get more affordable by the year, and depending on the material, a spool typically costs about $20. Depending on how often you print or how large your prints are, 1 or 2 spools can easily last you 1-3+ months through multiple prints. Have not tried resin printing but heard the material smells can be literally toxic as hell and requires far more ventilation than your standard printer where it doesn't require a theoretical hazmat suit to handle the material.

Not trying to derail this into the 3D printing thread. But figured that it would be applicable for custom gunpla parts.

It also Takes some time to get used to the quirkiness of your machine and how it works.

Also figured out that when it comes time to change the spool near the end, heat up the nozzle using something like Dr vax's bed leveling program, and simply pull out the material as it comes out pretty easy. Make sure you have enough length to easily grab the line and it just slides right out.

Works every time compared to the 15 minute "tutorials" on youtube where some narcissistic faggot wants you to know their great ancestor from indonesia has a super rare genetic disease and really wants you to subscribe 5 seconds into the video and other autistic oversharing shit you don't care about.

Would It be a good idea to actually print custom gunpla parts? Since I don't know the measurements for the radius of the head or arm of the kit.

 

[Syn_32]

How much do those things cost overall, machine and materials included? I want to start 3D printing stuff that can be very useful in the future. Nothing illegal obviously. Just a wife , you know. Minor stuff.

No, not unless it contained info that could reveal his identity. Power leveling is when you dox yourself by using specific names and locations that can be traced back to you. Like I can say I live in Newark but I won't say it's on Maple Drive between Oderman and Martin Luther Blvd or that I'm the guy who always walks around in an orange hat and live on the second floor--and then post a city view from my window. That would be begging for trouble. Just hide your details and practice safe Internet exposure.

Spoiler: ALSO THIS!

I suggest everyone use this before uploading pics taken from their cellphones: http://www.verexif.com/en/
Remove Exif is the option.

While I thank you for worrying about info, I'm not too worried, I just checked my pics on the website provided and no GPS data found (only phone make and model) (also I don't have social media at all! No Facebook, Twitter, hell even MySpace, I literally am a cave person because I'm not tied to social circles outside of here).

Anyway I decided to do a bit of panel lining as suggested and it does look a bit better now (apologies for smudges i have big fingers and I tend not to know where I put them sometimes.)





Again I apologize for the smudges, but overall it looks better now and it was quite relaxing too not feeling rushed.

 

[Android raptor]

Look what I found at target of all places

 

[Bastard_Call]

This one time I forgot to put the safety back on and I accidently jerked the trigger when I grazed against her uvula. I was bleaching my bedsheets for months and the impact even blew a chunk out of my- wait, what's gunpla?

 

[Gar For Archer]

It costs under $500 overall. Most printers that are worth anything are in the 300-500 price range and get more affordable by the year, and depending on the material, a spool typically costs about $20. Depending on how often you print or how large your prints are, 1 or 2 spools can easily last you 1-3+ months through multiple prints. Have not tried resin printing but heard the material smells can be literally toxic as hell and requires far more ventilation than your standard printer where it doesn't require a theoretical hazmat suit to handle the material.

Not trying to derail this into the 3D printing thread. But figured that it would be applicable for custom gunpla parts.

It also Takes some time to get used to the quirkiness of your machine and how it works.

Also figured out that when it comes time to change the spool near the end, heat up the nozzle using something like Dr vax's bed leveling program, and simply pull out the material as it comes out pretty easy. Make sure you have enough length to easily grab the line and it just slides right out.

Works every time compared to the 15 minute "tutorials" on youtube where some narcissistic faggot wants you to know their great ancestor from indonesia has a super rare genetic disease and really wants you to subscribe 5 seconds into the video and other autistic oversharing shit you don't care about.

Would It be a good idea to actually print custom gunpla parts? Since I don't know the measurements for the radius of the head or arm of the kit.

I’m pretty big into 3D printing from another hobby and have a pretty good idea of it’s capabilities and limitations.

First off, the main thing people forget about is that you can only print what you can design (or what others have designed), and that the most commonly distributed 3D printing file type is not easily editable. So, to take full advantage of 3D printing, you need to be very proficient in both engineering CAD and sculpting in something like Blender.

The most common type of 3D printer - FDM machines which use plastic filament - are not REALLY suitable for gunpla. Yes the resolution can get pretty damn fine nowadays, but it will always have visible layer lines that can’t be easily removed. On a simple armor piece with no inset or concave geometry you could remove the layer lines easily enough just by sanding, but small, complex details are pretty much a no-go on FDM machines.

Resin printers have become a lot cheaper and more common in recent years and are really popular among Warhammer/miniatures people, because they are capable of producing injection molded quality parts with NO visible layer lines with much finer resolution than FDM. But the main issue with resin is the resin itself - shit’s fucking toxic, and difficult to store, work with, and dispose of.

Despite being a 3D printing enthusiast myself, my general advice for people is to NOT get a 3D printer unless you are already proficient in CAD software or are willing to put in the time to learn. I definitely would not recommend a 3D printer if you’re only planing to use it for gunpla because it’s usually easier to just scratch-build from plastic sheet or modeling putty.

 

[Antarctic Hellbeast]

I’m pretty big into 3D printing from another hobby and have a pretty good idea of it’s capabilities and limitations.

First off, the main thing people forget about is that you can only print what you can design (or what others have designed), and that the most commonly distributed 3D printing file type is not easily editable. So, to take full advantage of 3D printing, you need to be very proficient in both engineering CAD and sculpting in something like Blender.

The most common type of 3D printer - FDM machines which use plastic filament - are not REALLY suitable for gunpla. Yes the resolution can get pretty damn fine nowadays, but it will always have visible layer lines that can’t be easily removed. On a simple armor piece with no inset or concave geometry you could remove the layer lines easily enough just by sanding, but small, complex details are pretty much a no-go on FDM machines.

Resin printers have become a lot cheaper and more common in recent years and are really popular among Warhammer/miniatures people, because they are capable of producing injection molded quality parts with NO visible layer lines with much finer resolution than FDM. But the main issue with resin is the resin itself - shit’s fucking toxic, and difficult to store, work with, and dispose of.

Despite being a 3D printing enthusiast myself, my general advice for people is to NOT get a 3D printer unless you are already proficient in CAD software or are willing to put in the time to learn. I definitely would not recommend a 3D printer if you’re only planing to use it for gunpla because it’s usually easier to just scratch-build from plastic sheet or modeling putty.

Are we allowed to post blender model screens here? Since I do make my own models and just drafted up the shoulder pads I was talking about earlier.

 

[Gar For Archer]

Are we allowed to post blender model screens here? Since I do make my own models and just drafted up the shoulder pads I was talking about earlier.

The off-topic forums are generally more lax on rules, really the only rule is “don’t be a retard”. We’re all just here to discuss a common hobby, it’s not super srs. As long as it’s related to model kits and their customization... feel free to post your shoulder pads man.

 

[Antarctic Hellbeast]

The off-topic forums are generally more lax on rules, really the only rule is “don’t be a retard”. We’re all just here to discuss a common hobby, it’s not super srs. As long as it’s related to model kits and their customization... feel free to post your shoulder pads man.

Well I was already proficient in 3D modeling before I even considered a 3D printer. So you are correct that not only are you limited by what you can find as stl files, but also by your own skill. Not really trying to texture at all here but when it comes to translucent parts, you need a separate spool of that specific color of the plastic as far as I understand. Though there are likely tricks around this that I dont know of.
Also don't think this could be traced back to me as it could be anyone that could do this rough level of sketching.

 

[Gar For Archer]

Well I was already proficient in blender before I even considered a 3D printer. So you are correct that not only are you limited by what you can find as stl files, but also by your own skill. Not really trying to texture at all here but when it comes to translucent parts, you need a separate spool of that specific color of the plastic as far as I understand. Though there are likely tricks around this that I dont know of.
Also don't think this could be traced back to me as it could be anyone that could do this rough level of sketching.

Would like to think this would suit that Kit.

View attachment 2131809

View attachment 2131808

You could PROBABLY do translucent parts by using ink markers to color over translucent filament. I’ve seen people do that with translucent/transparent parts in model kits (like recoloring blast effects), no reason it shouldn’t be possible with 3D printed plastic.

 

[Antarctic Hellbeast]

While I thank you for worrying about info, I'm not too worried, I just checked my pics on the website provided and no GPS data found (only phone make and model) (also I don't have social media at all! No Facebook, Twitter, hell even MySpace, I literally am a cave person because I'm not tied to social circles outside of here).

Anyway I decided to do a bit of panel lining as suggested and it does look a bit better now (apologies for smudges i have big fingers and I tend not to know where I put them sometimes.)
View attachment 2131485
View attachment 2131492
View attachment 2131502
View attachment 2131508
View attachment 2131517
Again I apologize for the smudges, but overall it looks better now and it was quite relaxing too not feeling rushed.

Always wondered what that gundam was called.
Saw glimpses of it once or twice in commercials for its gundam series a while ago.

 

[Android raptor]

Years ago someone on gundam.com's forums pointed out that the underside of the Zeong looks like a smiley face inside a heart and I've never been able to unthink that.

 

[Syn_32]

Years ago someone on gundam.com's forums pointed out that the underside of the Zeong looks like a smiley face inside a heart and I've never been able to unthink that.

Ya know, I didn't think about that, it does look like that though, I guess Zeong shares love and happiness... in the form of 12 mega particle cannons.

 

[EyelessMC]

I don't have social media at all! No Facebook, Twitter, hell even MySpace, I literally am a cave person because I'm not tied to social circles outside of here).

The absolute best way to live. Also it didn't have your GPS info maybe because you didn't take the pic with GPS locator on, which is smart. If you ever feel like you need extra protection in the future always remove the exif data. That's how we avoid stuff like this happening:

Spoiler

Mind you, you are not a creepy weirdo like most 4chan /v/ posters so this wouldn't happen to you anyway
But it's funny

Anyway I decided to do a bit of panel lining as suggested and it does look a bit better now [...] it was quite relaxing too not feeling rushed.

Panel lining is a hidden gem for new gunpla enthusiasts. Or any model kit builder really. Plus it really brings out the minute mechanical detailing on the kit. And you don't have to keep apologizing for the smudges. lol It happens all the time. If you prefer to remove them then you can use a microfiber cloth like those meant to clean computer screens or eye glasses from dust. Just rub it in a bit and you should be good to go.

Look what I found at target of all places
View attachment 2131524

>buying the figure instead of making the gunpla
SACRILEGE
Nice find, though. The Ez8 could do with a 2.0 of its kit anyway. How does it pose? Never had a Tamashi Nations figure before.

I’m pretty big into 3D printing from another hobby and have a pretty good idea of it’s capabilities and limitations.

To emphasize your point, here's a madlad who created his own original Kshatrya statue design:

Also don't think this could be traced back to me as it could be anyone that could do this rough level of sketching.

Wait a minute, I know that spear design... You're Frederick Alberta Ming who lives at 19 Xinjiangongmen Rd, Haidian District, China, 100091!
Thanks for the info on the cost of 3D printing. Didn't know it was such a huge hobby unto itself before this thread.