The episode’s cold open features Ellen and her friend Ian riding a rickshaw. Over footage of people and cityscapes, Ellen discusses India’s complicated relationship with both conservative values and progress stemming from being a relatively recent nation yet has a rich, ancient cultural history across the subcontinent. This results in contradictions such as legally recognizing hijra as a third gender and yet indirectly criminalizing homosexuality under an old Victorian era law, Section 377, which at the time of episode was repealed for consenting adults in 2009 before being reinstated in 2014.
To learn more about Section 377’s impact on Indian gay culture and the country’s as a whole, Ian and Ellen first stop at Mumbai to interview Parmesh Shahani, a local gay activist and author that wrote a book about gay culture in the city titled “Gay Bombay.” Ian leads the conversation, asking first how non-Indians such as Ellen and he could better understand Indian attitudes to homosexuality, as well as how gay Indians adapt to the oppression. Shahani answers that learning ancient Indian mythology that includes homosexual characters (often in a positive light) would help. Indian gays are also seldom alone as they have community, be it from family, friends, or neighbors.
Ellen asks if colonialism was responsible for the worsening of gay attitudes in the area, while Ian asks about the law’s then-recent reinstation itself. Shahani is optimistic despite the rollback. He reflects that the closet door has already been opened and can never be fully reshut. It also made him realize that the journey to equality is also not a linear one, and someday the government will see its folly and fix it. (Note: the law was repealed when the Indian penal code was fully overhauled in late 2023, in turn legalizing homosexuality in India.) Finally, he now appreciates his community more than ever. Without community, people will struggle. The interview ends with the three taking a walk in the building they’re in. Ellen spots a swing and asks for them to ride it together. Ian talks more with Shahani about the gay nightlife scene, as well as how Grindr is used in India.

Focus turns solely to Ian hanging out at a gay nightclub downtown. Notes that many of the guests are closeted but appreciate this safe space to just be themselves. He dances with some of the other men before interviewing a couple that state similar. They still overall feel safer being out in public together, albeit cautiously, since Mumbai is one of the most progressive cities in India.
Ellen reappears to state that now that Ian and her know what gay nightlife is like in Mumbai, they now want to know how it's like during daylight. She also wants to know what it’s like to be a lesbian in India.

A quick detour before that deep dive. While on the subject of how prevalent arranged marriage and matchmaking still is in India, they meet a woman that advertised for a groom for her son in not only a newspaper, but also on Grindr. A copy of this ad is included in episode. The family went viral for the Grindr move. Mom doesn’t regret helping her son, as he’s nearing his 40s and she has accepted that he just wants to be happy. Son appreciates his mother's support. He would like a husband and will be happy as long as his chosen partner is a vegetarian and likes living with cats. Ian is very confused at the idea of a man just wanting to be a husband with no expectation of dating first.
Another detour, albeit this time leaning closer into the answers Ellen seeks. One of the earliest out Indian activists explains to them about how segregated men and women are in India. That extends to not only gendered violence, but also how and where gay people are predominantly attacked. Gay men are more likely to be attacked in public by strangers, for example. Lesbians, meanwhile, overwhelmingly experience domestic violence from their families.

Ellen and Ian meet some lesbians at one of their only specially catered meeting places in the city. A friendly game of badminton follows. The lesbians beat them before they begin the interview over some beers. Ian yet again asks most of the questions while Ellen mostly sits, nods, or tells the lesbians that she thanks them for telling their story or how very sorry she is to hear that even the most privileged lesbians do not fare much better than their poorer sisters. Same with another rich lesbian devastated that she is about to lose her girlfriend of ten years to an arranged marriage, and a lesbian couple living in a lesbian domestic violence shelter with only the clothes on their backs after their families attempted to have them arrested and separated for being together.

After hearing the homeless couple state that they still love their family members and just want them to understand their love, the camera cuts to Ellen trying not to cry in a car. She reflects:
“You look at the reality of what’s potentially the majority of queer women in the country, and it makes me feel unbearable sadness. I think that is something that I have been thinking about a lot. Um, what it means to be a woman around the world and how I am unbelievably fortunate to have the life and the freedoms and the control that I–we truly take for granted.
I take for granted, for sure.”
Cut to Ian doing yoga in preparation for the next part of their journey. Time to go to Haridwar along the Ganges. Local celebrity yogi Baba Ramdev has been claiming that yoga can cure homosexuality, and Ellen wants to confront him. Alas, Ramdev hasn’t been cooperative with the producers. They’re going to meet up with one of his associates instead for aura and chakra checks.


The associate starts with Ellen. He takes out a flexible rod and waves it in front of her stomach. Concludes that she is “not stable emotionally” and her sex life is “not fine.” Ellen awkwardly chuckles before chirping, “Correct!” She gets placed into a chakra chamber to re-calibrate it.


Now it’s Ian’s turn. He gets a chakra exorcism that is more akin to a head and neck massage after dowsing rods determine that he has a negative aura. As before, Ian is much more engaging in general, asking questions to understand the logic involved. No Grindr questions this time, however.


They return to the center the next morning. Ramdev will do an interview, after all. He prioritizes describing his natural food business on the property, including sales figures (actual and projected). If he was hoping for the white celebrity to invest him Shark Tank style, he was sorely mistaken. Especially after not only telling them that while he loves everyone, he will cure any gay person that asks to become straight with yoga and/or his natural food and vitamin supplements. Did he mention his yearly turnover yet? This interview is the only one in the entire episode where Ellen has more initiative. Well, initially. Ultimately Ian is more confrontational. He all but calls the yogi a quack to his face after he insists that he has cured all sorts of cancer with his snake oil. Ramdev merely smiles and states he knows what he is doing and loves all people, even those with emotional problems like homosexuals. Ellen calls him a hypocrite for not practicing what he preaches in a followup voiceover.

Enough about yogis. Remember the hijras? The twosome return to Mumbai to meet a popular hijra band at their recording studio. One of them, who is much taller than both of them, invites him to the commune that he lives in in the slums.

There are around twenty hijra in this one home ran by a “grandma.” At least one of them was taken in by Grandma when he was eight years old. Others were cast out by family at an older but still young age. One weeps about the rejection that put him in his place in life. Two of them gently tell him to stop and wipe his tears. After all, if his own parents won’t accept him as he is now, then how could society? Several are bitter that despite hijras being described in “ancient texts,” they don’t get the same level of respect as other things mentioned in them. They are so despised in society that no one, not even other gay people (or other transpeople, for that matter) want to associate or deal with them.
The hijra section is the most unusual part of the episode for several reasons. First, I cannot remember the hijra band name being named even in passing. Second, instead of a one-to-one (or two-to-twenty plus) discourse, only the hijra converse amongst each other during most of the segment. Finally, Ellen only reiterates that hijra is regarded as a legal separate gender in India, and quickly mentions how they are considered outcasts with limited opportunities outside of begging despite this status. There is no questioning about why this treatment, as was asked for the gays and lesbians, or how a hijra is found (and/or created) to begin with. Just “third gender” ad nauseum. Even Ian, who barely lets Ellen have a word in the rare times she says more than “thank you for talking” or “I am so sorry," is mostly mum. It’s as if he is at a loss of what to say, even if it’s yet another question about how Grindr works in India. Or thinking of running out first opportunity.

Both are more engaging with their final subject. Their tour ends in Delhi (no mention of Old or New), where they talk to a pooner and her wife (who mentions them as being girlfriends recently despite using he/him pronouns). Both were committed in a hospital or held captive in their home for up to a month after the pooner came out. They settled in Delhi not just for the pooner to become a dancer, but for their own safety; the wife’s father threatened to honor kill them lest they return to their hometown. Ian asks if the father was serious or not. Ellen says that she is so sorry this is happening to them and they are very brave for speaking about this. Ends with all four of them hanging out while Ellen begins her final voiceover.

After a wild few days in India, Ellen concludes that spiritualism is the overarching theme of queer life in India. Despite how traditional India is, it actually celebrates diversity and values spiritual liberation the more you look. Perhaps instead of looking only on the outside for personal progress, perhaps one should look within as well?
As the credits roll, Ian complains about how loud and shitty Indian traffic is. So, so shitty. Ellen warned him, but
holy fucking shit it’s so loud no really Ellen
whatthefuck