I realize this sort of thing is highly variable, but what kind of battery life are you getting out of that laptop? I'm sort of tempted to get one, but only if I can reasonably expect >2 hours of battery life with standard office-type use. Related: what's the charging voltage? (I'm too lazy to look it up.)
Old-school 19V. Battery life was actually not really important for me as my plan is to use the device "semi-stationary" (I do travel with it, but at my travel destination it'd stay more or less in a room, and at my home it stays at the desk with occasional trips to the living- or bedroom, so I really just needed portable)
Mathematically with a new battery and my OS setup&usage (web browsing with script blocker, watching videos, typing stuff into a terminal) I should be able to expect anything from 6-8 hours on a full battery charge. I do implement a lot of tricks though, for example freezing background processes when their windows aren't focused, like on android. It's not so much that it uses a lot of power, it's more that it's a small device and so the battery had to be small. Fujitsu claims 10+ hours for this particular model, that might maybe be possible with a new battery and maybe running a slim Win10 on it on minimum brightness and letting it idle some of those hours, but I don't think it's super realistic. I usually found that windows supports and implements the various hardware power-saving options much better, but then turns around and wastes that same power on bloated background processing, so I actually don't believe the figures would be that different. If you have a bloated Linux like Ubuntu though (that'd randomly had some background process peg one CPU core to 100% for minutes for no apparent reason when I was testing if it even works correctly) it's possible the 6 hours are not reachable.
Be aware that a used device might have a very worn battery that lost 10-20%+ of it's initial capacity. For me it was an option to send the device back, for you it might not be.
If you want really long battery life there's still no way around something ARM and Android/iOS. It's really 50/50 about the combination OS and chip. These devices have these marvelous runtimes (if built well with reasonable battery) because tons of OS tricks, harsh temperature/voltage limiting of the SoCs, very power-saving GPUs and the OSes using hardware decoding relentless for just about everything and the chips also being very good at it. With some of the more modern ARM chips I had when I still was into ARM like the S922 , there was barely a measurable difference between idling and decoding a video running Android, all the x86 I have encountered are very inefficent in comparsion to the point that software decoding might actually be sometimes more power-saving with lower resolution videos.
Apparently the main issue with Nvidia cables is that the big brain engineers forgot to add a way to tell the user when it was actually plugged completely to the card, if the cable is not totally inserted then it melt like butter in a frying pan, when tech jesus did a demo on how to do it the cable SOMETIMES do a click that tell you its full inserted and sometimes even if its is full inserted it doesnt click so there is no a actual way to know unless you do it several times until you hear the click, worst of it in the FE editions you have to push it very hard to make it click
I have no idea about these cables but I'd make GND and VCC physically connect in that order and then put shorter and narrower sense contact(s) into it that need to connect in order for the delivery side to actually deliver and maybe optionally throw a warning via firmware that they're not connected. If properly designed, you could make it physically impossible to connect these sense wires without connecting the power properly. Modern EEs are often downright scared of mechanical solutions like this and I do not understand why.
Then again that's a lot of watts and a bit of oxidation on the contacts already can cause a fire. Such things are not super easy to design.