How do I learn to solder/desolder stuff without damaging anything

[Rakovnik]

Is this good?

It would be better than your hands but the issue I see right away is that flexible arm type will move when you're applying pressure to the board with the wick. Maybe you can work lightly enough to not be pushing it down but personally I'd go with the solid arm style.

 

[i440BX]

It would be better than your hands but the issue I see right away is that flexible arm type will move when you're applying pressure to the board with the wick. Maybe you can work lightly enough to not be pushing it down but personally I'd go with the solid arm style.

Ok then. I will look for that type.

 

[Geranium]

Re: destroying the copper traces, sounds like you've maybe got your iron too hot.

Here's a short video by Adafruit on desoldering:

Is this good?

I've got a "third hand" tool that has those segmented gorilla-stand type arms (this one). It's fine, but it doesn't take much to break the arms apart. I still prefer it to the crocodile-clip third-hand tools, though; avoid this design like the plague.

This small PCB vise is good (I have one) if your PCB is small enough. If you're going to be doing a lot, the Panavise is the best. The Panavise Jr is for smaller PCBs and is somewhat cheaper than the full-size Panavise.

 

[WearerOfHelmets]

If you are too poor to buy practice kits and shit, just find some broken electronics. In your trash, your neighbors trash, in a walmarts trash, it really doesn't matter as long as it's something that already doesn't work. You can't break what's already broken. If you're looking for tutorials on that type of shit, I don't know so goodluck.

 

[i440BX]

Re: destroying the copper traces, sounds like you've maybe got your iron too hot.

Here's a short video by Adafruit on desoldering:

I've got a "third hand" tool that has those segmented gorilla-stand type arms (this one). It's fine, but it doesn't take much to break the arms apart. I still prefer it to the crocodile-clip third-hand tools, though; avoid this design like the plague.

This small PCB vise is good (I have one) if your PCB is small enough. If you're going to be doing a lot, the Panavise is the best. The Panavise Jr is for smaller PCBs and is somewhat cheaper than the full-size Panavise.

Thank you. I was thinking that most of these products on Temu don't really have a desk fixation tool. Also I don't need to buy an crappy magnifier.

 

[i440BX]

If you are too poor to buy practice kits and shit, just find some broken electronics. In your trash, your neighbors trash, in a walmarts trash, it really doesn't matter as long as it's something that already doesn't work. You can't break what's already broken. If you're looking for tutorials on that type of shit, I don't know so goodluck.

I know basic electronics and what every component does. I soldered in school on beginner kits, but I didn't have to desolder or solder small or difficult stuff.
Thats what I am thinking. To exercise on broken equipment where I can find harder to desolder components. In beginner kits, it is not so hard.

 

[Kalsarikännit]

No-clean flux, some leaded solder, and an iron set to ~350 degrees will do the trick for most thru-hole and simpler SMC electronics.

Solder braid is good for cleaning up things you don't want to break out the sucker for.

Solder suckers are good for thru-hole components with more than 4 legs. I don't really use it otherwise.



the most useful thing I've bought is one of those copper tip scrubbers for my iron, I just rub it in there real quick periodically then apply fresh solder to keep the tip nice. Copper specifically works really well for this.

Also, heat guns are good for many-legged surface-mount ICs. Just put kapton tape on the neighboring components, then evenly apply heat while putting a little bit of leverage on the IC with tweezers until the solder melts and it pops off. It's a bit trickier than a soldering iron, because the solder all melts at once, so you don't really know how close you're getting until it happens.

One last thing you want is an exhaust fan, because the solder/rosin fumes will hurt your eyes and give you a headache for days otherwise. Don't be apu apustaja:



Overall, soldering is pretty easy, and a lot of people overthink it. I know I did when I started.

 

[DavidS877]

Put the giant solder gun away unless you're working on car wiring or something.

Get smaller tips for the iron. Make sure you have smaller solder too. Turn it down till it just melts solder, then up a bit. Remember, heat the joint, apply solder. Tip should be hot enough to do that in 5 seconds or less. The solder has flux so you shouldn't need any more but as mentioned if you do then apply a bit to the board/joint( acid flux is for plumbing, don't use it on electronics, you want rosin or no-clean). Don't fear lead solder, just wash your hands and don't eat it.

I find a cheap LCD microscope to be very helpful for inspecting and soldering today's smaller stuff.

 

[Gargamel]

I tried a while ago to desolder an damaged microusb port from an cheap bluetooth speaker but I was a retard and applied probably too much heat and the copper traces disintegrated.

You need a small tip on your iron for small work. As others have said, you need wick to remove solder from a connection. Flux would help a lot too.

The gun isn't really good for anything other than really large solder connections that you're not going to find in small electronics.

 

[AmpleApricots]

Use leaded solder if you still can get it, (might not be that easy depending on where you live) it's a lot easier to use. Just don't eat it and wash your hands and you'll be fine. You also want to forget about that solder gun (If you don't work on a ship or in roofing that is) and perhaps also about that solder station. What kind of tips do you have? It depends a bit on your dexterity and experience but ideally you want a chisel tip, ca. 2mm but in general as big as you can get away with for what you're doing. I do everything down to 0805 safely and sometimes 0603 SMD with that. For desoldering and if you don't have a hot air station, get at least some bismuth, ideally in small bar form, you then just can scrape some of it off with your hot soldering iron. Bismuth is non-toxic so you don't need to be careful with it. It has a very, very low melting point (actually too low to use it as solder safely) and graciously spreading it over the part you want to desolder makes it a lot easier. Just clean up well afterwards and also practice this first. There's also Chipquik which I think uses Indium, but IMO it's overpiced. Just use bismuth and a flux pen. (Flux being the important part here as otherwise the bismuth won't stick, be careful about spilling, that stuff stays liquid for a while) Use good, no-clean flux. You don't need it for usual solder as the flux is worked into the wick, but it can sometimes be helpful to apply a little extra. Don't buy cheap no-name flux, you'll regret it.

Try to get a solder station with digital display for the temperature, these are a lot more accurate with the temperature and that is very important. You don't want to cheap out here, the quality of the solder station will directly affect your results and a good solder station will literally last you a lifetime. I'd go with Weller because that used to be the cool brand to have, I'm not sure if that's still the current recommendation as I haven't dealt with soldering in any professional capacity in a long time and the hobby one I use for most of anything is literally at least 25 years old and was dropped at least three times. Same goes for tips, you don't want to cheap out either. I'm still on my original set for that particular solder station.

If you do SMD get a good set of SMD tweezers. There are many cheap ones here but again, I'd go with expensive quality or you'll probably regret it. These are precision tools and you don't get precision tools on aliexpress.

Eventually you want to eye a hot air station if you do a lot of SMD, but first look into all that's already been said.

 

[DavidS877]

I'd go with Weller because that used to be the cool brand to have, I'm not sure if that's still the current recommendation as I haven't dealt with soldering in any professional capacity in a long time and the hobby one I use for most of anything is literally at least 25 years old and was dropped at least three times.

Honestly, these days for a starter iron I'd just get a Pinecil, USB-C power source and a stand, and maybe the fine tip assortment.
Sure it has more CPU power than my first 2 computers combined but it's light, easy to use, direct reading tip temps, heats up stupidly fast due to almost no mass.
https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/ or more country appropriate, just be sure it's Version 2.

I have a proper Hakko on my workbench but I keep the Pinecil at my desk for soldering during boring work meetings.

 

[i440BX]

What kind of tips do you have?

Only that came with the station. It is the same size.

hot air station

I don't have. Only a heat gun.

if you still can get it, (might not be that easy depending on where you live)

I am in EU but searching for 60 40 I immediately find on mainstream stores. Nobody gives a shit in my country it seems. What brand is good?

Use good, no-clean flux.

What is this flux. I have some old Tree resin stuff and the grease like flux that came with the gun.

 

[i440BX]

f you do SMD get a good set of SMD tweezers. There are many cheap ones here but again, I'd go with expensive quality or you'll probably regret it. These are precision tools and you don't get precision tools on aliexpress.

I know what are you trying. I bought some $2 tweezers for using it on a old android phone from Aliexpress and they were too thin to pinch anything.
I bought then a $10 tweezer set from Lidl and it is much better.

Pinecil, USB-C power source

Pretty good. Though where I can find tips?

 

[DavidS877]

I am in EU but searching for 60 40 I immediately find on mainstream stores. Nobody gives a shit in my country it seems. What brand is good?

Brand is less important and likely varies by country, Kester is good MG is good. The core flux type is important. You probably don't want "RA" which is the heaviest flux and requires cleaning afterwards and is the same as your rosin paste flux. To be fair you still probably should clean a board soldered with "No Clean" but it's less critical.

Pretty good. Though where I can find tips?

Usually the same place you buy them. They can also use TS100 tips but I like the shorter Pinecil v2 tips.

https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-soldering-short-tip-set-fine/

 

[Gargamel]

What is this flux. I have some old Tree resin stuff and the grease like flux that came with the gun.

The best kind I've used comes in a syringe. You squeeze it out on to your workpiece. Sorry, I don't have a brand name off the top of my head.

You can clean up any mess after you're done with isopropyl alcohol. The less water content the better, or just let it dry really well.

Only that came with the station. It is the same size.

Tips are usually specific to the make or model of soldering iron. You might need to invest in a different one if you can't find a good selection of tips.

If the one you have is anything like the shitty ones they used to sell at RadioShack (USA) and the tip is held in by a screw, get rid of it and go get something name-brand. Fighting bad tools makes for bad work.

Soldering was really hard for me until I spent the money on a Hakko soldering station, and then it got fairly easy. Good selection of tips too.

I also have a Quick 864DW that works okay, but it makes the lights flicker.

 

[AmpleApricots]

I am in EU but searching for 60 40 I immediately find on mainstream stores. Nobody gives a shit in my country it seems. What brand is good?

I'm mister fancy pants and like to go with Sn62Pb36Ag2. Gives it that extra shine. but 60/40 is ok.

What is this flux. I have some old Tree resin stuff and the grease like flux that came with the gun.

You want Flux with no Halogens, look for F-SW 34 to go after ISO. For Flux in solder you want at least 2,5% flux, 3,5% is better. As german I can recommend Stannol or Felder, depending on where you are you might get it in your country. Stannol sells X32-10I, it's a small flux pen, for the occasional SMD solder these are perfect and last a while without drying out. I'd go with 0,75mm on the solder, 1mm for the more crude stuff.

 

[AmpleApricots]

Pinecil

Seems to be the modern equivalent of the gas powered soldering iron, for when you're on the road. They're probably good for small things but I would have my worries that it'd be able to overcome anything that has a noteable ground plane.

 

[DavidS877]

Seems to be the modern equivalent of the gas powered soldering iron, for when you're on the road. They're probably good for small things but I would have my worries that it'd be able to overcome anything that has a noteable ground plane.

Well, the gas powered soldering iron is the one I turn to when I need to solder to a giant aluminium sheet.
The Pinecil is 60+W(provided you have a way to get the power into it) The only thing I've noticed is sometimes I have to bump the temp up a bit on the bigger stuff but even then it holds temp fine.

 

[Kalsarikännit]

What is this flux.

Looks like this:

Made by "MG Chemicals"

Solder brand doesn't usually matter as long as it's 60/40 or similar.

and for soldering irons, a 60w model is what I have.

 

[SirCliveSinclairdabbing]

you'd want something from 2010+ to avoid old lead solder.

Lead solder best solder. Still keep a reel of it from the 90s for jobs. It's simple, exhale while soldering or use a pc fan and filter pad as an extractor if you're posh.
Modern solder is retarded.