I really want to get back into 40k Painting. I have been considering a 3D printer. Should I get a 3D Printer? Does anyone with one like theirs?

As for resins, the "8k resin" is total bullshit. Retards compare high pigment, higher contrast pricey resin against light grey resin and go "oh it's so much more detailed!".

Slap primer on both and suddenly the light grey model looks just as detailed.

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I figured you for a Chaos player given your persistent aura of eldritch madness. Orks was my second guess though.

Chaos Terminators and Dreadnoughts actually are my favorite units...but..shh don't tell anyone...I also really like the slick neo-mediaeval look of some of the Blood Angels ones too, with a good tuff Ork Warboss sculpt coming in 3rd...
 
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The appeal for me when it comes to 3D printers is the infinite amount of things you can print on them. I"m more into oldhammer style models and there's tons of files online for these. for example https://www.yeggi.com/q/oldhammer/
Yup. It starts with "I want my warhammer for cheaper" and evolves into "Huh, I can model my own chapter" or "Hey look at these cool proxies"

I had a lot of fun converting 2d text into 3d objects and then fusing those onto my tanks.

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There's my "Russador" kitbash with the aforementioned 2d to 3d on the side panel.
 
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There's my "Russador" kitbash with the aforementioned 2d to 3d on the side panel.

That is so cool.

Below is the only picture I still have of the stuff I used to paint.

I ended up just giving a TON of 40k stuff away, I used to have a big shelf of a bunch of models in my old office room. The paint jobs were okay but never super high quality I can admit. I am excited about becoming a better painter! also yeah I know my old work ID card is there on the table but everyone here already knows what I look like anyway. This is the only pic I have left to share, from around 2019ish

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As for cost, resin printing can be as cheap or as pricey as you want to go. Last gen printers can usually be found for hefty discounts, especially if used. As for which ones to look at...well it depends. There's a difficulty curve to printing larger things or more things on a plate because more cross section = more suction = greater chance of support failure.

The 6"-ish printers are great for just minis and whatnot. "Medium format", the slew of 10 inchers are good for tanks and other large models, and also printing tons of dudes at the same time. There's also stuff like 13-16" printers that are huge (and expensive), but idk if I would use those for actual models...maybe large scenery or less detailed large models because their pixel size really starts ramping up and you can lose finer details.

If I was going for "small format", the 6"-ish printers...well it's actually been awhile since I've owned one. I know the Elegoo Mars series is pretty popular and if you're on a real budget there's usually good deals on the last gen Mars 3....I sometimes even see them go on FB marketplace for like $100-$120.

Medium format is all I really know nowadays. I owned an original Elegoo saturn (sucked), Creality Halot Mage (was okay, I got it for like $240 so it was cheap), and currently own an Anycubic M5S (has been pretty solid) and both an Epax E10-4k (now upgraded to 8k) and their new E10-14k.

Actual build quality of Epax blows away Elegoo, Creality, and Anycubic. More metal used in the chassis, thicker metal parts such as the build arm, deck plate, etc. They design their printers for upgradeability. Still made in China like every other printer, but the company is based in NC and support/shipping has always been fast.

Phrozen is another one. Never owned one, but their customers usually stick with them and I believe their build quality also beats the former 3 companies. This shows in price. The typical 10" printer from Epax and Phrozen is like $750-$800. The other 3 companies are $500 and under depending if you get the pro, ultra, whatever higher "trim" models. The exception is that right now the Epax E10-14k is in "preorder" sale mode and is currently $550, no tax free shipping. I had mine within a few days or so and can say it's gonna be a fine machine.

Actual material cost can vary a lot. I generally buy whatever resin is on sale. Those 2 sorcerer dudes were printed with some anycubic "eco" resin I got for like....$3/kg (extremely cheap). Generally anything under $20 is cheap. When I first started I used to buy $35 Siraya Tech resin and thought even that was fine because 1kg of resin can make probably a 1000pt army.

I haven't noticed any detail difference in the resins I've used, it all comes down to calibrating your settings for each brand, type, color you use. Some people get lazy and don't do this and thus get shittier results and blame the resin. What will change sometimes is the mechanical attributes. Brittleness, shrinkage, etc. You can mix cheap resins with a bit of much more expensive "tough" resin to lower brittleness...lots of info about that online.

*Edit* Different resins can have different optimal temperatures. Printing in a colder area, or even one with drafts can fuck prints up. I keep my printers inside of enclosures with a heater that keeps the temp at about 30c. This is probably one reason I get pretty consistent prints.

Tools and shit can be cheap, or expensive. Some people go out and buy expensive cleaners and use the wash and cure machines. I'm a cheap sob. I bought 2 sealable rice containers off Aliexpress and filled them with 99% IPA. The 1st container gets most of the excess resin off and gets dirty quick. The 2nd bin is for a finishing wash and stays fairly clean. For curing I started with a cardboard box lined with foil and stuck UV led strips to the sides. Higher wattage the better UV penetration into the resin (important for curing inside hollow models).

PPE? Here's where people get salty. I'll be honest. I don't wear a mask and I don't use gloves most of the time. I don't huff the fumes nor do I spend time near the printers and soon they're all going to be banished to the garage. I do put gloves on if I will be directly touching wet resin if only because I hate the feel of it. But just grabbing the build plate and dunking it in the alcohol? Nah. Maybe I'll get mega cancer in 20 years. Maybe the guys wearing hazmat suits to grab prints are just being massive pussies. That's for you to decide and will cost as much as you need it to.
 
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The typical 10" printer from Epax and Phrozen is like $750-$800.

And one of these will be able to reliably produce acceptable miniatures at that price range? I'm not looking for a production-line quality, business-type machine or anything, but I don't wanna drop less than 1k on a printer that winds up not being worth it, or having it be more worth it to just go to the next tier up and dump an extra grand, get a really good printer that will last and produce good stuff.

Also remember I am totally new to this technology like I said before this I was 100% ignorant of the last few years of advances, in my mind 3D printers were still only capable of printing only large pieces of angular, thin plastic with all of those ugly lines all over it. I was pretty impressed when I saw some of the quality stuff that is being printed in ppls homes today. Almost all of it has almost no visible evidence that it was even 3D printed in the first place. Most of the ones I've seen really do look like they come from a real company with hundred thousand dollar machinery. None of this shit was even remotely possible when I was a kid if you wanted an miniature or model or other plastic figure you either bought one that some big company made or you sculpted/kitbashed it yourself out of milliput...I can't pretend I'm not excited to see that printing high quality stuff like GW puts out but at a fraction of the price and in the comfort of your own home is getting to be a real possibility, even on a budget. That is just so cool.

Back to these budget (sub $1,000 let's say) machines. I don't really have this burning need to have my own printer ASAP as I am fine sitting back for now and re-honing my painting skills on the stuff that GW provides. My goal was to start with some Terminators and then work myself up to Dreadnoughts and then after getting that down past the point where a good one is just a fluke, I'll tackle the more complex things like painting flesh tones and free-handing stuff like banners and things. I have my first boxes of GW minis on order in the mail right now along with some paints since I am starting over fresh with nothing.

Since it will probably take me a minute to regain and refine my skills, should I wait a year or so until the tech gets cheaper or just go ahead and pull the trigger on one now? Budget is not necessarily a problem but I hate getting something and then having it become rapidly obsolete...I still have nightmares about dodging 3D0 and Atari Jaguar-shaped bullets as a kid...
 
And one of these will be able to reliably produce acceptable miniatures at that price range?
Yeah pretty much they all will nowadays if you dial in settings. Generally like 35 and under microns per pixel is "high quality". Now the 10" printers are getting around 20 with the Elegoo Saturn 3 12k screen and Epax/Anycubic offering both 12k and 14k screens. Phrozen also offers a 12k 10" model.

I imagine they're gonna start running out of steam on screen advances. It went from 2k, to 4k. Then 8k, and now 12/14k. We're rapidly hitting diminishing returns. I want to see these machines start focusing on features for sure. Anycubic kind of has the lead here with an app that you can remote send and start printing files from anywhere. Most other brands use Chitu boards that are locked down with proprietary firmware. Even when they say "has wifi for network printing", it's only if you use the Chitubox slicing program.

Anycubic also has a load cell build into their print arm that can detect the amount of force being put on the arm to tell if something is wrong. Their actual build quality is a tad behind the more expensive brands though.

I predict any machine you buy now will easily reproduce great minis until they move to a completely new way of printing them. Maybe newer printers will get faster...but idk. The resolution is here though.

I did forget to mention replaceable parts on these things. The screen will eventually go bad. They say usually 2k hours or so but you can get more...or have a lemon that gets less. Those are about $100-$150 a pop. The film on the bottom of the vat can also get damaged and eventually needs to be replaced. Depending on the type it can be a few bucks of $10 to replace that. If you don't mind Aliexpress shopping you can usually find stuff on there for cheaper, but even Amazon prices, or even direct from maker, aren't usually too bad.

*Edit* Now for anyone who wants a project that's open sourced, you can build your own resin printer. Prometheus MSLA printer is the project name. They made their own board that uses an open source firmware you can do whatever with and are constantly tinkering with new features to tack onto it. I think the cost of sourcing the parts (they do have some vendors that supply some stuff) is around 1k.
 
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Thank you so much! That's a lot of really good info to consider. I am gonna watch this thread so I can come back and re-read some of that since I am bound to forget some of all this new information. Looking forward to being able to do this some day.
 
Not a problem. I haven't actually printed as much as it sounds, but I do keep up on the new releases and occasionally buy one, print some stuff to paint...but then real life drags me away lol.
 
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Just be careful with stuff re: fumes and other chemical exposure with whatever you decide on. Use proper precautions and stuff.
Resin can be dangerous.
 
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Good resin printers (you want resin for better resolution than FDM) can be had for under $250 if you look around. Then you just need the design files and resin, vs having to continually make molds, heat/pour metal, etc. And no faffing about with skimming off slag or residue sticking to crucibles, etc.

Metal molding requires more heat, but you can just pour it. Molding plastic at any kind of quality usually requires injection molding, which if you're going that route you might as well just get a printer.
Last I heard 3D printers were like thousands of dollars. I don't get into Warhammer stuff either other than some of the video games. At this point in time it seems like the video games are the cheapest way to play with that kind of stuff. If I want to paint vehicles and little soldiers I just stick to real stuff like Tamiya model kits and so on.
 
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Last I heard 3D printers were like thousands of dollars.
If a printer is super expensive, then you're usually getting into industrial PSM (powdered sintered metal) machines, which spit out finished parts.

My half-remembered understanding of it is as follows: Metal powder is mixed in with a binder, a laser "draws" each layer which causes the binder to flow and then lock into place, then the whole thing is moved to an oven at a high enough temperature to burn off the binder while welding the metal particles together in the finished shape. But those are probably like $50k and up.
 
Basically just the title. Mini painting made me quite happy and felt very calming during the few months I tried my hand at it a couple years back. I don't play the game but I really enjoyed painting cool creatures and robots when I used to do it just as a relaxation and OCD-satisfying type exercise.
Extremely autistic title, but I can see you wanted a certain audience to answer. There's some tablet games where you get to paint and build models, a much more autistic version of the adult coloring book apps that are out there. Some of the miniatures games let you paint and customize the figures too.

Treat the disease, not the symptoms!

Also cartoon:
 
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I lost my link to the big torrent of 40k .stl files. Does anyone have that torrent or something similar?
 
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I don't have that particular Disease, unfortunely I am the proud owner of several thousand Olney's Lesions and an extremely limited amount of brain density not currently occupied by T. Gondii amoebas. So you see, it is simple retard damage+Parasite infestation rather than classical autism

Thanks to all for posting in my thread about 3D printers. your thoughts have been inputed and i appreciate all of the data

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Happy Easter
 
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I think you should get one, regardless. This technogy is the future and you will want to know it and have access to it. The guy that mention C&C mills is also correct.

A 3D printer and a mill in the hands of a crafty person or someone creative or mechanically-inclined are very powerful. You would be able to do a lot once you are set up.

Anyone here have opinions on Prusa 3D printers? I am pretty interested in one.
 
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