Mechanical Keyboard Autism Thread - Because Cherry MX switches get you laid.

  • 🔧 At about Midnight EST I am going to completely fuck up the site trying to fix something.
This post is written on a 40% ortholinear keyboard. I didn't want to spend a lot of money so I bought the CSTC40 off aliexpress which for around 40 bucks without switches and keycaps is probably the cheapest you can go, while still having a functional keyboard that doesn't feel too improvised. I just ended up reusing keycaps and the gatheron blue switches my keychron came with, as I didn't want to spend too much money on this. The build-quality is so-so. Frankly, I cannot decide if 40 bucks is still too much, putting it together it felt really flimsy and the lower portion of the keyboard actually got bent, but once all is put together pressure straightens it all out and it feels actually robust enough, about the same as your average OEM keyboard, many of which also have no or few screws... the plastic feels very cheap though. The original layout by the chinaman feels like he had no idea whatsoever what all these symbols mean or what they are good for, but well, you can reprogram everything to your specifications and that is kind of the point with the ortholinear keyboard after all.

I am actually typing blind with all my fingers and without looking at the keyboard, I got used to it in hours and besides hitting the wrong key here and there in the beginning there wasn't really much of a learning curve at all. Some specific things like hitting modifiers to get keys from different layers take a bit longer so there's that. I haven't fully made my perfect layout yet but mostly just moved keys around when I noticed I kept hitting the wrong ones.

On every normal keyboard I have I moved left ctrl to where capslock is as the actual left ctrl key is in a position where it's so uncomfortable to reach it might as well not exist. (this is btw. how the HHKB does it by default and pretty much the biggest thing about it. It also completely dropped the keys in these extreme left and right lowest row poisitons) When possible, I also always programmed ctrl to also act as esc when tapped, when you're a *nix nerd you need the esc key kinda often. With the 40% ortho layout this comes all very naturally with the advantage that the lower row keys are actually easily reachable with your thumbs without contorting your hands too much. When you use it for a bit you kinda notice the strange things about the more conventional, staggered layouts. Why are some of the modifiers so huge? Why is the space bar? Is there any comfortable way to actually use the lower row keys, especially the ones to the extreme left and right? These are all kinda things the Planck layout actually makes easier. It doesn't even take much thinking about. If this is actually long term better for your wrists or whatever I couldn't tell you, but it surely doesn't feel uncomfortable at all. The most interesting thing this thing does is that it really makes you think about how you actually interface with the computer when creating your layouts, which I think can be quite useful.
 
To get my bearings straight and to start off in a good way, where in the world would I find a good and sturdy case for a custom built 100% keyboard?
 
My KBC Poker X 40% circa 2012 still works. Lots of swapped caps between then and now, but eventually settled on some obscure set lifted from an electric typewriter I found in the trash years ago. I see the "Pok3r" name is still around under the brand Vortex. If I were to try another board I'd probably go for the Vortex Race 3 - anyone have experience with it or something similar?
 
I’m using a MX Mechanical with the tactile switches. It’s very comfortable to type on, I like it quite a bit. The backlighting is a bit annoying though, it turns off automatically to preserve battery, but I can’t find a way to raise the timeout, nor does it stop turning the lights off if you plug it in with a cable.

Pairs great with the other MX peripherals though. I can switch between machines and the virtual machine that gets direct access by just clicking the hot keys, and if you set up the thing where the MX Master can move the cursor between different computers, the keyboard will automatically follow the mouse’s current focus. Actually makes multitasking between a desktop and a laptop pretty smooth, at least as long as they’re both running macOS. It probably works fine on windows, I haven’t tried. Doesn’t work on Linux unfortunately, but the hotkeys to switch between machines makes it not a problem. It’s like having a built-in KVM, very convenient.
 
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I had a mechanical keyboard for a while, but I got rid of it because the constant loud clicking was annoying the shit out of me.
 
To get my bearings straight and to start off in a good way, where in the world would I find a good and sturdy case for a custom built 100% keyboard?
Look up ebay for music cases - the cases for "real" music keyboards (like pianos and stuff) and MIDI controllers. They'll fit up to a 75%

The point is that they are usually hardcases that will fit your $500 investment, but can be had for under $30 bucks
 
So I bought this big piece of plastic junk: https://vortexgear.store/products/pc-66-66-key (in the beige version because I'm a sucker for beige peripherals, even though objectively black would've fit better to my stuff, I also broke another tradition and this is my first keyboard in 20 years with a big, honking ISO enter key) It's basically a clone of the apparently famously terrible PCJr keyboard, just with more sane layout. Like usual, I plan to move Ctrl to capslock and in this instance, I'm actually considering making the tiny left bottom ctrl key an ESC key, since double tapping caps-ctrl for ESC can be sometimes wrought with peril. It's apparently programmable with the manufacturer software. It also has bluetooth and 2.4 Ghz and even better, it actually takes standard AAA Batteries. Pictures online make it seem pretty good, quality wise but we will see. I'll get to test it for two weeks if I need to send it back.

I also ended up breaking a key of my actually nice keycap set from aliexpress accidentally. I wrote the seller and he actually agreed to send me another one for shipping costs. Usually I don't make the best experiences on aliexpress but I guess sometimes they can be nice.

I'm kinda surprised how many retro looking boards are out there at this point. There's even an Apple M0110, just with, amongst others, the these days more compatible HHKB layout. On aliexpress you can find an M0110 clone too that's decent looking enough and there's also the NCR80, a tenkey-less. I might actually buy one of the two latter for an Mac Performa 475 and modify it to be directly 68k Mac compatible.
 
So I bought this big piece of plastic junk: https://vortexgear.store/products/pc-66-66-key (in the beige version because I'm a sucker for beige peripherals, even though objectively black would've fit better to my stuff, I also broke another tradition and this is my first keyboard in 20 years with a big, honking ISO enter key) It's basically a clone of the apparently famously terrible PCJr keyboard, just with more sane layout. Like usual, I plan to move Ctrl to capslock and in this instance, I'm actually considering making the tiny left bottom ctrl key an ESC key, since double tapping caps-ctrl for ESC can be sometimes wrought with peril. It's apparently programmable with the manufacturer software. It also has bluetooth and 2.4 Ghz and even better, it actually takes standard AAA Batteries. Pictures online make it seem pretty good, quality wise but we will see. I'll get to test it for two weeks if I need to send it back.
That is a clone of the "improved" IMB PCjr keyboard, the original (and one that got the "worst keyboard ever" view) used chicklet keys
1678412741514.png
 
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My brown switch mechanical needs to be replaced. I bought a replacement but it was very loud and the homerow didn't have bumps on F or J (?????). So I'm going to return that on Monday when they're open.

I want something that's good, full 104 keys, brown switch, but kind of quiet. If it's not quiet I can't type without my headset on and that sucks.
 
My brown switch mechanical needs to be replaced. I bought a replacement but it was very loud and the homerow didn't have bumps on F or J (?????). So I'm going to return that on Monday when they're open.

I want something that's good, full 104 keys, brown switch, but kind of quiet. If it's not quiet I can't type without my headset on and that sucks.
If you want very quiet switches with similar specs as brown ones, black cherry silent switches may be worth a try. If they have a keyboard with them available in your store.
The cherry website has sound samples for each switch too.
 
My brown switch mechanical needs to be replaced. I bought a replacement but it was very loud and the homerow didn't have bumps on F or J (?????). So I'm going to return that on Monday when they're open.

I want something that's good, full 104 keys, brown switch, but kind of quiet. If it's not quiet I can't type without my headset on and that sucks.
Little pricey but I recently bought a set of ceramic keycaps and they're very quiet, compared to my doubleshot caps there's a very noticeable difference. They seem to absorb a lot of the twang from my switches. Although I don't use browns, use a mix of ss/red.
 
If you want very quiet switches with similar specs as brown ones, black cherry silent switches may be worth a try. If they have a keyboard with them available in your store.
The cherry website has sound samples for each switch too.
I can't find silent black anywhere.

Little pricey but I recently bought a set of ceramic keycaps and they're very quiet, compared to my doubleshot caps there's a very noticeable difference. They seem to absorb a lot of the twang from my switches. Although I don't use browns, use a mix of ss/red.
this is apparently a kickstarter project that's not for public sale yet.
 
My brown switch mechanical needs to be replaced. I bought a replacement but it was very loud and the homerow didn't have bumps on F or J (?????). So I'm going to return that on Monday when they're open.

I want something that's good, full 104 keys, brown switch, but kind of quiet. If it's not quiet I can't type without my headset on and that sucks.
Check out keyboards with gateron browns, they're supposed to be quieter than the equivalent Cherry ones. I've shilled them before but there's the keychron k10, out of all the "enthusiast" focused brands they're the most practical and accessible.
 
My brown switch mechanical needs to be replaced. I bought a replacement but it was very loud and the homerow didn't have bumps on F or J (?????). So I'm going to return that on Monday when they're open.

I want something that's good, full 104 keys, brown switch, but kind of quiet. If it's not quiet I can't type without my headset on and that sucks.

topre is pretty worth it for quiet tactility, in my experience, but i think a full-size realforce is still like $300. there are other electro-capacitive switch boards that are a bit cheaper, but i haven't tried them. it's kinda pleasant though. reminds me of raindrops hitting a window.

kailh choc browns or similar are decent, if you're interested in a low-profile board, though it seems like they tend to rattle unless you do a little modding. for more budget options, maybe slap some case foam, o-rings, and pbt caps on an akko board with brown switches, or nab something with optical browns?

for kicks, i once lubed the sliders on a 1999 membrane keyboard, and it was actually pretty pleasantly smooth and quiet.
 
So I bought this big piece of plastic junk: https://vortexgear.store/products/pc-66-66-key (in the beige version because I'm a sucker for beige peripherals, even though objectively black would've fit better to my stuff, I also broke another tradition and this is my first keyboard in 20 years with a big, honking ISO enter key) It's basically a clone of the apparently famously terrible PCJr keyboard, just with more sane layout. Like usual, I plan to move Ctrl to capslock and in this instance, I'm actually considering making the tiny left bottom ctrl key an ESC key, since double tapping caps-ctrl for ESC can be sometimes wrought with peril. It's apparently programmable with the manufacturer software. It also has bluetooth and 2.4 Ghz and even better, it actually takes standard AAA Batteries. Pictures online make it seem pretty good, quality wise but we will see. I'll get to test it for two weeks if I need to send it back.

I also ended up breaking a key of my actually nice keycap set from aliexpress accidentally. I wrote the seller and he actually agreed to send me another one for shipping costs. Usually I don't make the best experiences on aliexpress but I guess sometimes they can be nice.

I'm kinda surprised how many retro looking boards are out there at this point. There's even an Apple M0110, just with, amongst others, the these days more compatible HHKB layout. On aliexpress you can find an M0110 clone too that's decent looking enough and there's also the NCR80, a tenkey-less. I might actually buy one of the two latter for an Mac Performa 475 and modify it to be directly 68k Mac compatible.
On the subject of Macintosh keyboards, I think the nicest ones are the Apple Desktop Bus keyboards with the orange Alps switches. I love typing on them, and they have this kind of low profile style that feels pretty close to their modern keyboards.69052E2F-F454-49EB-9355-DAF5E21C185C.jpeg
 
My brown switch mechanical needs to be replaced. I bought a replacement but it was very loud and the homerow didn't have bumps on F or J (?????). So I'm going to return that on Monday when they're open.

I want something that's good, full 104 keys, brown switch, but kind of quiet. If it's not quiet I can't type without my headset on and that sucks.
Buy a hotswap keyboard (i recommend Keychron V6) and Gazzew Boba U4's, they're the best silent tactiles available.
 
My brown switch mechanical needs to be replaced. I bought a replacement but it was very loud and the homerow didn't have bumps on F or J (?????). So I'm going to return that on Monday when they're open.

I want something that's good, full 104 keys, brown switch, but kind of quiet. If it's not quiet I can't type without my headset on and that sucks.
Maybe the Logitech MX Mechanical? It’s very comfortable to type on, and there’s a version with brown switches (called “tactile”). It’s a little bit clicky still, but much more subdued. It’s wireless but you can just leave it plugged in with USB-C if you don’t want to recharge it once every couple months.
 
My brown switch mechanical needs to be replaced. I bought a replacement but it was very loud and the homerow didn't have bumps on F or J (?????). So I'm going to return that on Monday when they're open.

I want something that's good, full 104 keys, brown switch, but kind of quiet. If it's not quiet I can't type without my headset on and that sucks.
I'd say look for something with hot swappable switches? A lot of people nowadays recommend Keychron keyboards, and they have some that are full ANSI, wired with hot-swappable switches. And all of them have QMK so they can be reprogrammed.

Then you can try different switches on different keys, different keycaps since you'll have a standard ANSI layout with MX stems, different dampening accessories, and you can make a personalized keyboard without knowing how to solder or anything like that.

Keychron C2 Pro is the cheapest full size keyboard they have, with V6 being the more premium model with fancier stuff like a dampening foam, four programmable macro keys and uglier keycaps which you can just change for something nicer. Q and K series are wireless, so more expensive and complicated for a feature barely anyone would want.

As for switches themselves, Cherry's patent for MX switches has long since expired so there was a boom in various MX clones, as well as original constructions such as Kailh BOX, so it's way more complicated than it used to be. Getting a switch tester and a keyboard with hot-swappable switches is probably the best way to go to build the perfect keyboard.
 
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