Mega Rad Gun Thread

Among Us Gaming said:
Timing check is pretty easy to do yourseld.
Pull the hammer back for single action, with your other thumb putting light pressure on the cylinder to induce drag. The cylinder should lock up right as the hammer cocks fully.

Unrelated, but I have a question for the rest of the thread: If someone builds a Galil, but they're not Jewish, does that actually make that particular gun a Goylil?
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What if it’s a South African parts kit?
 
Romulus augustulus said:
does it have quick change barrels?
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not yet, L6 has states that he plans to work on that in the future, but in my opinion realistically, you don't need one. Red Right Hand is making barrel/gas tube heatsinks which seem like an interesting idea. I think it's possible, and would be cool, but just really extra for something that is supposed to be a cheap AR15 compatible belt fed.
Akran said:
Any specific SS you are using? I am considering a Disruptor FRT for mine but on the fence.
What do you consider the hardest thing with the DIY build?
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Will be using a Arc Fire, currently just have a regular SS with a Geissele trigger.
All lever style FRTs will be better due to the mechanical advantage the lever provides, I don't know about the Disruptor but Rarebreed/traditional FRTs can cause bolt drag when you pull the trigger as the bolt returns. just do the ARC fire if you want a traditional selector, it's easily the best. This autistic guy even sells precut RAVE triggers that work with the ARC or regular SS.

As far as "difficult" parts of the build there were three things.
1. Barrel drilling: at the end of the day, this is janky no matter how you do it. The instructional video shows L6 using a hand drill with like a 5/64" bit to start the new gas tube, IMO it's almost impossible to not snap a bit without using a drill press. but like in the original post, the KAK barrels they sell are a pretty good deal and unless you want to do something silly, it's not worth it, I think KAK also has SBR sized barrels and 300BBC ones if you want to go that route.
2. you need to bend a return spring, it's what holds the "feed lever" in place (part No:3, L6 version is solid and a different color)
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Bending isn't hard, but the instructions are lacking and basically, "use plyers to make this weird shape, shove it in here, and make sure the feed lever moves, but doesn't move "too slow".
I really think you could make a jig for it, and that would make the instructions much less ethereal.
3. there are a few very tiny set screws that if you fuck up, can basically ruin the entire build, So I'll include just general stress about either loosing one of those or stripping one of those. or for one, red loctiting it (which is needed because it's near the barrel nut) and letting it set in the wrong place, bricking your upper. It's just a little stressful. I had a non critical threaded hole not threaded properly, but as mentioned L6 quickly provided the proper threading and I had a tap n die set that had the bit I needed, I was a little stressed snapping the tap there but it came out OK.


But as mentioned, the build process isn't too bad if you want to go that route, especially if you've done different "difficult" builds before.
 
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Bassomatic said:
So I'm ONE part away from finishing my 300 build. I'm not AGAINST spending a few dollary doos but it's a back pack beater build, so less is more in cost.

I have a h3 buffer. I'm thinking whats the best BCG? I know I want a lighter one for cycle, gas and recoil but I mean it's PSA/parts/beater. Will it really be worth spending some extra cash? I thankfully can afford it and don't mind you can get some cheap ones for like 50 but lighter look like 120+. I think recoil alone makes spending worth more.

But brands ideas for a 7" 300 KANYE (blackout/blacked)BCG?

I probably asked before but A: I'm retarded, B: I'm just not around too much sadly.
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If it's just a fun gun then light weight BCG will be fine. I have a Brownells TIN gold one I like a lot that I got on sale for maybe 80 3-4 years ago. Lighter than most, I think 8.2oz? 3K rounds 5.56 with no damage beyond finish wear.
For ultimate reliability I'd stick with heavy as that'll chug through any grime in the upper or chamber.
I don't think you'll be able to swap subs and supers with a light BCG without SERIOUS fucking bolt speed that'll probably cause jams but you could gas the gun for subs with the light one and chuck in a regular BCG for supers or whatever works if you're doing supers. It's another part but it'll make of of a difference than a buffer and also easier to swap in the field imo. Also try a carbine buffer and just see what you think. Ultimate recoil competition fags use straight up plastic plugs instead of a buffer weight. Not a fan of adjustable gas blocks for adjusting on the fly with blackout, they're usually jammed up and I've stripped a number of screws in various blocks. 5.56 doesn't really do that but you're probably not wanting to adjust that constantly.

People will bitch about BCGs but in my experience I haven't had any problems with the 10 or so I have. Even $40 blems I got from MAF seem fine for the blasters I have them in.
 
The NRA has come to the aid of Matt Larosiere and his co-defendants In a civil suit against them by the State of California
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There is huge drama in the metal tubes with washers community. People are mad at Stealth Additive Works because they apparently made their much anticipated and ultra high performance compact Tisha suppressor even better since they sent a now obsolete model to PewScience. It has a different internal baffle geometry now and can be told apart via the blast baffles
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Statements from SAW

"
Notes from the SAW lead engineer on the recent internal design improvement:

The Tisha’s we are shipping look simpler, but are actually much more advanced. Unfortunately those advancements are not visible from the hub end.

Titanium Tisha’s in customer hands are a major improvement over what was sent to pew science. What we are shipping is quieter, lower back pressure and substantially more durable.

SAW has the tools to measure sound (pressure). We can tell with certainty if suppressor A is Quieter than suppressor B.

The Tisha’s shipping to customers are better than the Tisha sent to pew science.

Regarding the blast baffle surface area - it does matter.

There is actually more 50% more TPMS instances in the blast chamber now, they are just further from the bore on the blast baffle. So total surface area in the blast chamber is actually a little more than it was. Total surface area in the suppressor is substantially more than it was.

The tpms fins are also doing a better job metering gas into the proximal annular chamber. While locating thermal mass in a place where it Better removes heat.

Inside the blast baffle is a pin type HX, which vents directly below the mid vents. We’re taking gas from the distal outer annular chamber, which has substantially cooled, and using that to “cool” the blast baffle. (Also now patented pend) every shot the HX is introduced to suppressed gas under pressure which is vented and replaced with ambient air. It works, we see no blast baffle degradation under sustained fire with the suppressor over 600 C.

The added flow path in the blast baffle has further reduced sound signature

Through all this I learned how things are actually working, I did make small changes on prototypes that made things worse, those are all in the trash bin.

In the end the design concepts that are key to performance are refined and amplified in units going to customers.

If you want to trade for an inferior a fin version, we have a pile of them. They are destined for the recycling bin. But you can have one of those instead if you insist."

"
The Ti Tisha Jay tested is inferior in all aspects to the models shipping to customers. Both for Ti and inconel. It was litterally the second iteration of the 5.56 version ever. We're over here laughing at reddit comments from people thinking we are gaming the system, or doing things to save pennies or minutes of print time. If only we were so brilliant and crafty. We're just nerds who love to shoot trying to make a better suppressors. The machines are expensive, but we still print with finer powder and layer heights than most in the industry... and the business side is still profitable.

On the version stuff... if you're seeing a change it is because it improves the product. All customers will be recieving the improved versions of the Tisha. Sadly for some of you industry guys, this means you will have to cut it in half again.

Think cars, the F-150 has a pre-release version media people drive. Unit 1 off the assembly line has major differences. Unit 1,000,000 has hundreds of small changes that improve reliability and manfacturing.

Think Guns, Glock for example. within generations there are dozens of engineering changes now one knows about.

You are getting a better product in every way. The funny part is the fins were put on the blast baffle there as cool factor (marketing and wow factor). There is no need for excesseive turbulence generation in the blast chamber, despite what what you read by all the reddit experts. Pro tip for the industry guys on here, the blast chamber gas has more than enough energy to exercise its self. Down stream... yes, adding chaos helps"

"
There iare moreTPMS instances in the blast chamber now, they are just further from the bore on the blast baffle. So total surface area in the blast chamber is actually a little more than it was. Total surface area in the suppressor is substantially more than it was.

The tpms fins are also doing a better job metering gas into the proximal annular chamber. While locating thermal mass in a place where it Better removes heat.

Inside the blast baffle is a pin type HX, which vents directly below the mid vents. We’re taking gas from the distal outer annular chamber, which has substantially cooled, and using that to “cool” the blast baffle. (Also now patented pend) every shot the HX is introduced to suppressed gas under pressure which is vented and replaced with ambient air. It works, we see no blast baffle degradation under sustained fire with the suppressor over 600 C.

The added flow path in the blast baffle has further reduced sound signature.

ASM DT (not a APS) and ADS Prototype
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Shortened AK-12M with AK-12 sight
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PKZ
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7 FGC-9's seized in Brazil
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More
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Stuff and things is now offering a 2 round SS burst limiter

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Flux Defense is C&Ding some GunCAD Dev



 
xf7ub2LMGZj%yV said:
not yet, L6 has states that he plans to work on that in the future, but in my opinion realistically, you don't need one. Red Right Hand is making barrel/gas tube heatsinks which seem like an interesting idea. I think it's possible, and would be cool, but just really extra for something that is supposed to be a cheap AR15 compatible belt fed.
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Realistically I get that this is a toy for rich guys who have private ranges or public land to LARP and blow through ammo on, and that realistically there is basically no application for the civilian belt fed even in imaginative WROL/SHTF scenarios because of logistics, but if they're going to pretend there is there's pretty clearly a need for a quick change barrel variant because of the hard limitation of a closed bolt light weight belt fed gun. The question is what's the threshold for reaching cookoff with your typical L6 upper setup and with the RRH mods. That's what informs the hot gun procedure which begins significantly before cookoff is happening and defines when you'd want to change barrels. Even with the RRH setups that have heat sinks, straight gas tubes, and RRH's barrel profile and oversized barrel nut, there is not much thermal mass or any heat dissipation devices in the rear 1/4 of the barrel, so they're going to get to the point where a non-toy belt fed would be getting a barrel change quickly, and slow to cool down. Very low duty cycle. I'd go so far as to say that without the additional mods RRH uppers bring, combat wise a L6 upper is worse than useless and is probably a liability vs a magazine fed FRT/SS equipped AR.
 
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God's drunkest driver said:
Realistically I get that this is a toy for rich guys who have private ranges or public land to LARP and blow through ammo with, and that realistically there is basically no application for the civilian belt fed even in imaginative WROL/SHTF scenarios because of logistics, but if they're going to pretend there is there's pretty clearly a need for a quick change barrel variant because of the hard limitation of a closed bolt light weight belt fed gun. The question is what's the threshold for reaching cookoff with your typical L6 upper setup and with the RRH mods. That's what informs the hot gun procedure which begins significantly before cookoff is happening and defines when you'd want to change barrels. Even with the RRH setups that have heat sinks, straight gas tubes, and RRH's barrel profile and oversized barrel nut, there is not much thermal mass or any heat dissipation devices in the rear 1/4 of the barrel, so they're going to get to the point where a non-toy belt fed would be getting a barrel change quickly, and slow to cool down. Very low duty cycle. I'd go so far as to say that without the additional mods RRH uppers bring, combat wise a L6 upper is worse than useless and is probably a liability vs a magazine fed FRT/SS equipped AR.
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I’m wondering how difficult it would be to have some sort of open bolt system applied to these.

Also a Lewis gun style handguard for increased cooling.
 
God's drunkest driver said:
there is basically no application for the civilian belt fed even
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it's called having a little whim and whimsy in ur life, maybe even a little zest
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The cookoff temp is reaches between 100-150rds, A piston system is (stated to be) in development, which will help with that.
Pretend To Imagine said:
I’m wondering how difficult it would be to have some sort of open bolt system applied to these.
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I've been tossing the idea of a trigger that when released also throws the bolt catch up, or has the bolt catch up by default but a secondary trigger pulls it down. You would probably want two separate triggers just to be on the safe side, even though open bolts are "legal".

Again though, pretty much all guns are toys, and there are retards in ukraine getting kills with rusty old AKs with Chinese mounts and dots. The whole discussion of "what's most practical in Y" or "why X will get you killed in da streetz" is just shit talking at the end of the day. The first rule of gun safety should always be have fun
 
Switched from a p365 with wilson tactical grip, 14 rnd mag guts kit and eps carry to a stock g48 with EPS carry and boy does it carry better. Longer barrel meaning less tip out is real.
 
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