Mega Rad Gun Thread

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Here's my poverty pony rifle and handgun. I've had it since 2019 but I've always struggled shooting my rifle for some reason. It's either my trigger control or that I don't fully trust it but it's zero seems to change constantly. Any suggestions on how to fix that?View attachment 2700737
Pick up a BUIS and just start shooting irons. Be methodical and start from a supported position to zero. Don't hurry and don't stop until you've got two solid three round groups at minimum. Practice the cadence of your shot (either at the top of inhale or on exhale). Do dime washer drills (you can do this without ammo). Feel for the mechanical reset of your trigger and ride it after your shot. Don't let go completely so you have to take up all that slack again. When you put your face the rifle have someone put painters tape where your nose sits. Make sure you put it there every time after.

If all else fails pick up a copy or FM 3-22.9 and read it cover to cover.

Once you've set up a irons zero then introduce optics.
 
Let me take a stab at it:

Replace the trigger guard with those v shaped stuff.

Replace the handguard with something from Magpul.

Replace the stock with a Magpul MOE stock with soul or the soulless CTR version.

Replace the redpot with an Aimpoint Pro or go big and buy a Trijicon ACOG.

Replace the charging handle with some ambi stuff from Radian or BCM.

Replace the safety with something from BCM or Radian.

Replace the muzzle device with that BCM compensator flash hider combo and get the big one.

Get a Magpul MOE plus grip or the K2 grip.

Replace the dust cover with that strike industries version.

Replace the sling with something from Blue Force Vickers.

Get rid of that fixed forward side and replace it all with flipup sights or just replace the red dot with a Colt carry handle rear sight.

Get a magpul or ranger plate bottom for those pmags.

Replace the trigger with something from BCM or Gisselle.
Get new gun, copy that.
 
it's zero seems to change constantly
test the supposition with a rest or a known good shooter. if true, you might have something loose or defective - inconsistent ammunition can cause it as well as a loose gas key. if false, you might be encountering an issue where you should adjust the rifle to fit your body better, improve on using the sling as a shooting aid (hasty sling), and consider alternate stances or your own body's circumstance (cross dominant eye, straining the neck or poor trigger control or grip, poor contact with buttstock and shoulder, heretofore undetected palsy, et c.
 
Let me take a stab at it:

Replace the trigger guard with those v shaped stuff.

Replace the handguard with something from Magpul.

Replace the stock with a Magpul MOE stock with soul or the soulless CTR version.

Replace the redpot with an Aimpoint Pro or go big and buy a Trijicon ACOG.

Replace the charging handle with some ambi stuff from Radian or BCM.

Replace the safety with something from BCM or Radian.

Replace the muzzle device with that BCM compensator flash hider combo and get the big one.

Get a Magpul MOE plus grip or the K2 grip.

Replace the dust cover with that strike industries version.

Replace the sling with something from Blue Force Vickers.

Get rid of that fixed forward side and replace it all with flipup sights or just replace the red dot with a Colt carry handle rear sight.

Get a magpul or ranger plate bottom for those pmags.

Replace the trigger with something from BCM or Gisselle.
Only like two of those might improve basic shooting (trigger and optic). His trigger guard cant even be replaced, it's integrated. Magpul's good for some stuff but its not the be all end all. Prefer M-Lok free float handguards myself. I doubt a new dust cover will help his grouping.

Out of curiosity, for Club and some of you other more experienced shooters: for budget range toys and shtf bare bones, how much of a practical difference is there to be made between a bargain basement barrel and some shmancy Faxon (or other luxury brand I never bothered to commit to memory), outside of weight via fluting?

Shtf and you can never replace your barrel, what do you want to have? Chromed I guess? Guessing in that situation the accuracy gain via stainless wouldnt be worth the wear trade off?

I gotta dig up my order receipts. I dont even remember what barrels I put on my shit lol. I think one of them is a BCA heh.

Hope I never have to throw my shit over a wall, dont think my Chinesium handguard would appreciate it. I watched the TFB stress test on a Daniel Defense and it was definitely impressive.
 
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Only like two of those might improve basic shooting (trigger and optic). His trigger guard cant even be replaced, it's integrated. Magpul's good for some stuff but its not the be all end all. Prefer M-Lok free float handguards myself. I doubt a new dust cover will help his grouping.

Out of curiosity, for Club and some of you other more experienced shooters: for budget range toys and shtf bare bones, how much of a practical difference is there to be made between a bargain basement barrel and some shmancy Faxon (or other luxury brand I never bothered to commit to memory), outside of weight via fluting?

Shtf and you can never replace your barrel, what do you want to have? Chromed I guess? Guessing in that situation the accuracy gain via stainless wouldnt be worth the wear trade off?

I gotta dig up my order receipts. I dont even remember what barrels I put on my shit lol. I think one of them is a BCA heh.

Hope I never have to throw my shit over a wall, dont think my Chinesium handguard would appreciate it. I watched the TFB stress test on a Daniel Defense and it was definitely impressive.
In my experience, even the budgetiest of ARs is a ~4 MOA gun assuming it was put together properly, which is still minute of dude out to 300 or so. I've settled on Ballistic Advantage and Faxon for my rifles - they're a bit pricey, but not outrageous, especially with BA stuff popping up on sale pretty regularly and I can punch golf ball sized groups or smaller all day long at 100 with them (1-2 MOA) from a bipod or a bag. Beyond that, I spend a bit more to get a nice BCG, but everything else is usually Aero receivers and a mishmash of whatever I could find on sale. As for materials/finish, all of my AR barrels are either nitrided or stainless, so I can't speak to any differences vs. chrome-lined.

I admit that I don't have as much experience/knowledge as the Sandwich, though.

@Rack Of CDs: Everything @Club Sandwich said and also check your optic mount. I had a very similar Primary Arms prism scope (the old 4x ACSS model) and the mount worked itself loose from the scope after a few hundred rounds or so, requiring me to remount it with some Loctite. Great optic otherwise, though.
 
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Only like two of those might improve basic shooting (trigger and optic). His trigger guard cant even be replaced, it's integrated. Magpul's good for some stuff but its not the be all end all. Prefer M-Lok free float handguards myself. I doubt a new dust cover will help his grouping.

Out of curiosity, for Club and some of you other more experienced shooters: for budget range toys and shtf bare bones, how much of a practical difference is there to be made between a bargain basement barrel and some shmancy Faxon (or other luxury brand I never bothered to commit to memory), outside of weight via fluting?

Shtf and you can never replace your barrel, what do you want to have? Chromed I guess? Guessing in that situation the accuracy gain via stainless wouldnt be worth the wear trade off?

I gotta dig up my order receipts. I dont even remember what barrels I put on my shit lol. I think one of them is a BCA heh.

Hope I never have to throw my shit over a wall, dont think my Chinesium handguard would appreciate it. I watched the TFB stress test on a Daniel Defense and it was definitely impressive.
I'm at work right now but I'll edit this space when I get home.

EDIT: Club Sandwich answered this better than I could have.
 
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how much of a practical difference is there to be made between a bargain basement barrel and some shmancy Faxon (or other luxury brand I never bothered to commit to memory), outside of weight via fluting?
unfortunately the answer, imho, is "depends on your shooting abilities". a quality barrel, in both materials and craftsmanship, is likely to mechanically outperform most human marksman's ability to use it because humans are inconsistent shot to shot without great skill, talent, or training. if we take the supposition that the ammunition and environment are "perfect", and the marksman is "perfect", then precise differences in barrel design, contour, rifling, material, length, et c will be evident and measurable, even if slight.

the human element is the one most subject to extreme and inconsistent changes relative to something like wind, quality ammunition, or a quality weapon, those differences in a barrel, while present, are greatly dwarfed by comparison. the average marksman is very unlikely to both notice the differences in barrel quality unless that difference is extreme, and is also unlikely to have the ability to identify that barrel's quality in comparison to another barrel.

as an aside, fluting is a way to reduce weight while retaining most of the stiffness/strength of the larger diameter barrel. it does very little for "accuracy" unless you have some sort of specific issue you are trying to resolve like barrel whip or something.

Shtf and you can never replace your barrel, what do you want to have? Chromed I guess? Guessing in that situation the accuracy gain via stainless wouldnt be worth the wear trade off?
well, let's have a brief mention of the technologies involved:

a chrome-lined or plated barrel uses chrome bonded to steel (4150 is typical but the alloy itself varies by the manufacturer) because it is very hard, very heat resistant, and is easy to clean with most solvents and provides excellent protection from general environmental damage with minor maintenance. it is difficult to achieve great accuracy with many typical chrome-lined barrels because the process itself adds material, and that additional material may not be completely uniform throughout the bore, which can create inconsistencies shot to shot where extreme precision matters. it is quite a step up from a plain steel alloy barrel and most of the way towards a stainless steel barrel, but costs far far less and can be turned around faster from the machine shop. 4140 and 4150 aren't all that super different other than when you get barrel blanks where 4150 is already pre-heat-treated from the foundry and ready for nitriding or nitrocarburizing if you want those. 4140 is a bit softer are easier to machine and if you are going to use something like melonite/QPQ you will want the softer material so nitrogen penetrates deeper.

a stainless steel barrel has a much higher inclusion of chromium directly in the steel itself (usually 416 of some magic flavor, but again it varies by the manufacturer) and while that avoids the issue of additional material from plating, you also have a different steel material that reacts a bit different to heat and corrosion. stainless steel will experience throat and crown erosion, just a bit differently in wear pattern and typically stainless doesn't have extreme resistance to this sort of wear - especially when is comes to flame cutting like at the cylinder gap of a stainless revolver. stainless steel often includes sulfur or phosphorus to ease machining, and your tools to make the barrel must be selected with that particular steel in mind. stainless steel often requires hand-lapping as the material is more annoying to machine precisely as the grain structure often is quite large, and while uniform and easy to make matte or brushed, a good polish without blemish is surprisingly labor intensive. these combined with the stainless steels typical for barrel making being somewhat expensive makes it a poor choice when the average shooter gets little to no benefit from using it.

given a situation where you will never be able to replace a barrel i would probably go with the stainless steel barrel. if you have the ability to care for the barrel and keep it in good order to avoid something like rust creeping in under the chrome plating, then a more typical 4150 chrome-molybdenum-vanadium (CMV) barrel would be more economical with few disadvantages. having put many hundreds of thousands of rounds down range, i never really saw much difference between stainless or 4150 barrels unless they were particularly prepared or had a special lining (stellite for example). 4350 barrels are a different beast altogether.
 
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the human element is the one most subject to extreme and inconsistent changes relative to something like wind, quality ammunition, or a quality weapon, those differences in a barrel, while present, are greatly dwarfed by comparison. the average marksman is very unlikely to both notice the differences in barrel quality unless that difference is extreme, and is also unlikely to have the ability to identify that barrel's quality in comparison to another barrel.

I'm of the opinion that I'm the factor affecting my accuracy compared to my rifle being at fault.

I'm going shooting with some friends who are much more advanced at shooting than me so I'll have them confirm if it's me or the rifle. Thanks for your advice everyone.
 
Here's my poverty pony rifle and handgun. I've had it since 2019 but I've always struggled shooting my rifle for some reason. It's either my trigger control or that I don't fully trust it but it's zero seems to change constantly. Any suggestions on how to fix that?View attachment 2700737
Some good suggestions have been brought up. Do the BUIS thing, that should help establish a baseline. After that check the optic and make sure everything is solid, nothing has shaken itself loose. I've seen some optics literally fall apart while shooting. Heard a bang, then heard the lens falling on the floor. Another thing to note when shooting supported is that if you're not using a freefloated handguard, you want to shoot from a soft surface like a bag or something. Don't clamp the thing in a vise.
 
Only like two of those might improve basic shooting (trigger and optic). His trigger guard cant even be replaced, it's integrated. Magpul's good for some stuff but its not the be all end all. Prefer M-Lok free float handguards myself. I doubt a new dust cover will help his grouping.

Out of curiosity, for Club and some of you other more experienced shooters: for budget range toys and shtf bare bones, how much of a practical difference is there to be made between a bargain basement barrel and some shmancy Faxon (or other luxury brand I never bothered to commit to memory), outside of weight via fluting?

Shtf and you can never replace your barrel, what do you want to have? Chromed I guess? Guessing in that situation the accuracy gain via stainless wouldnt be worth the wear trade off?

I gotta dig up my order receipts. I dont even remember what barrels I put on my shit lol. I think one of them is a BCA heh.

Hope I never have to throw my shit over a wall, dont think my Chinesium handguard would appreciate it. I watched the TFB stress test on a Daniel Defense and it was definitely impressive.
I just went overboard and wanted to pimp his AR out.

Though I am shocked that Magpul does not engage in selling free floating handguards but other companies are required to put their logo when they sell those MLOK free floaters.

As far as replacing handguards go, so I need to remove and replace the barrel nut?

Reading further more into this and even remove the handguard from my rifle, the barrel nut on my mine is filled with sockets all around for torx screws and the handguard is torqued into the barrel nut. Whereas other handguards are attached on by torquing some screws that clamp the handguard together.

I am looking for some picatinny quad rail and don't want to replace the barrel nut, so any idea which companies sell handguards that are attached to the barrel nut?
 
I just went overboard and wanted to pimp his AR out.

Though I am shocked that Magpul does not engage in selling free floating handguards but other companies are required to put their logo when they sell those MLOK free floaters.

As far as replacing handguards go, so I need to remove and replace the barrel nut?

Reading further more into this and even remove the handguard from my rifle, the barrel nut on my mine is filled with sockets all around for torx screws and the handguard is torqued into the barrel nut. Whereas other handguards are attached on by torquing some screws that clamp the handguard together.

I am looking for some picatinny quad rail and don't want to replace the barrel nut, so any idea which companies sell handguards that are attached to the barrel nut?
I have the Daniel Defense Omega rail on one of my ARs. Bit heavy tho.

 
Though I am shocked that Magpul does not engage in selling free floating handguards but other companies are required to put their logo when they sell those MLOK free floaters.
MLOK is owned by Magpul and is licensed to other companies that make compatible products using that technology. Magpul prefers to push their polymer modular handguards that are usually simpler to install or remove and you can add rail or MLOK (or KeyMod) sections as needed. Their core business is in polymer accessories afterall.
As far as replacing handguards go, so I need to remove and replace the barrel nut?
no, many handguards are "drop in" and use the slip ring with the normal barrel nut and handguard cap to attach to the rifle.

drop-in style:
Screenshot 2021-11-10 191923.jpg

because this is necessarily two points of contact (if not more), drop in handguards are not generally considered free floating with rare exception. many handguards exist that replace or clamp to the barrel nut but may require removing the slip ring and retaining spring.

clamping style:
Screenshot 2021-11-10 191941.jpg

clamping design with sleeve:
Screenshot 2021-11-10 192013.jpg

the sleeve is used to provide a larger surface for the clamping of the handguard as well as to protect the barrel nut from deformation.

the designs vary, but the goal for a free floated handguard is to have a single attachment point for the handguard that does not touch the barrel directly, if at all.

Reading further more into this and even remove the handguard from my rifle, the barrel nut on my mine is filled with sockets all around for torx screws and the handguard is torqued into the barrel nut. Whereas other handguards are attached on by torquing some screws that clamp the handguard together.
it appears from your picture that you have a standard A2 compatible AR-15 barrel nut, slip ring, and weld spring sub-assembly as well as rifle handguard cap the barrel nut is used to retain the barrel, which is screwed into the barrel extension, to the upper receiver via clamping force. the standard barrel nut is toothed to allow the gas tube to align and pass through it to reach the gas key attached to the bolt carrier assembly in the upper receiver.

some free float handguards use a specialized barrel nut that is threaded inside and out so that a threaded handguard can be attached. some omit this threading and use an alternative like a locking ring / jam nut or clamping piece, et c. the design will vary depending on which one you want to use.

jam-nut style:
Screenshot 2021-11-10 192049.jpg

jam-nut installed with wrench:
Screenshot 2021-11-10 192058.jpg

notice the handguard is threaded onto one portion and the jam-nut used to provide clamping in-line with the barrel nut to secure against loosening.

I am looking for some picatinny quad rail and don't want to replace the barrel nut, so any idea which companies sell handguards that are attached to the barrel nut?
are you looking for a free float handguard that attaches purely to the barrel nut? because there are very few of them. the Daniel Defense Omega rail is a two piece free float RIS design that uses the standard barrel nut and slip ring sub-assembly in conjunction with a specialized clamp. most others, especially one-piece designs, will require removing or "shaving" the front sight block assembly down for the installation, and/or the removal (via deinstallation or cutting) of the slip ring and weld spring. Fortis Manufacturing REV II, Sampson Manufacturing Evolution, Centurion Arms C4, et c all make clamping handguards with this in mind.

clamping-style without sleeve:
Screenshot 2021-11-10 193240.jpg

low profile gas block:
Screenshot 2021-11-10 193320.jpg

note that often these narrower handguards require the removal (temporarily or permanently) of the standard A2 front sight block (and often the handguard retaining cap) for installation as they are not physically tall enough to otherwise allow the handguard to be be installed. this is why some people prefer a "two-piece" design like the Omega rail or use a Troy CASV which attaches to the upper receiver to avoid altering the front sight block assembly.
 
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Just an FYI: the screws themselves are called machine screws.

This is a torx head (sometimes called "star head"):
torx.jpg

This is a hex head (sometimes called "allen head"):
hex.jpg

If the head is rounded outward, it's a "button head." If it's flat with an angled underside (for flush fit) it's a "countersunk head." If it's cylindrical, it's a "cap head" or "socket cap." If it has a small pin sticking up in the middle, it's a "security torx/security hex" (sometimes called "anti-tamper").
sectorx.jpg

If you get a new handguard, it's likely it will come with the appropriate barrel nut (at least mine did), otherwise you would need to be sure the inside diameter on the guard matched the outside diameter of the nut.

Appropriate torque for the nut itself is 35-50lb/ft; general home assembly advises some moly grease against the upper receiver to prevent galling and seizing, so I assume a factory-built rifle would have the same, but it's probably not easy to remove without a firm vise grip and properly sized wrench. Haven't had to actually remove one myself yet.
 
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