Mega Rad Gun Thread

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i'm assuming you live in a state (like California) that has a prohibition on pistol grips on semi-automatic centerfire rifles. the key word there is centerfire. .22LR is not centerfire, ergo you can generally have whatever "evil features" you would like on it, as long as it meets other regulations. likewise a manual action rifle can have a pistol grip even if it's centerfire.

what you must be careful of is making sure that you meet other assault weapon laws as defined in your jurisdiction - overall length, prohibited features, magazine size and design, et c.

not quite true. it's possible to create a .22LR "assault weapon" if it's a pistol with a magazine outside the grip, or a rimfire AR receiver you made yourself and registered as a pistol that has a fixed magazine of 10 rounds or less, and so on.

AR receivers are not automatically registered as anything in CA (barring the importation declaration or the manufacturer doing the transfer to another manufacturer or to a dealer). you can transfer them as an a pistol, a rifle, or as an "other".

however the problem arises with the CA DOJ's roster of approved handguns for sale. it only affects transfers from dealers, not firearms you manufacture yourself into a pistol... however with the passage of AB-857 you have compulsory markings that you must apply to the DOJ to receive and then apply to the pistol which you must then build within 30 days into a compliant pistol configuration, following all other applicable laws.

even then, there is some dubiousness as such a pistol can very easy fall into "assault weapon" definitions as it has a pistol grip and has a magazine outside that grip and assuming the builder follows typical AR-15 conventions and parts, it would be semi-automatic. you would have to have a fixed magazine ("requiring disassembly of the action") of 10 rounds or less and no ability to accept more than 10 rounds, which is taken to mean it can't look like a normal magazine with a false lower area or something.
True. I should have been more specific: my understanding is that all new AR lowers sold by dealers in California are DROS'd as rifles. So I dont think you can build a pistol off a store-bought lower. Theres also the regs against "manufacturing an unsafe handgun" for home-built semiautos.

Also true re: 22lr AR pistol "assault weapons." I was thinking in terms of rifles.

I build out my first lower last weekend. Couple scratches on the finish, but nothing too terrible. No broken or lost parts, mag seats well, hammer works, I’m really pretty happy with myself, it was a great experience.

The only thing I’m paranoid about are the trigger and hammer pins, because only one of the three guides told me what side to put in first, and even then it was unclear. I didn’t even think of it until after the buffer tube was installed (not staked though, I’m not doing that till I know the fucker actually works). The trigger works smoothly for now, but I’ll keep an eye on it. No I haven’t been dry firing it, just pulling the trigger while holding the hammer and walking it down.

Now to just wait until I can afford an upper. I’m probably going to just a get a completed upper for simplicity, but I still intend to dig in there and really get a feel for how it works.
I dont think it matters which order/side you do the pins.
 
The only thing I’m paranoid about are the trigger and hammer pins, because only one of the three guides told me what side to put in first, and even then it was unclear.
I dont think it matters which order/side you do the pins.
the pins are traditionally installed right to left (and removed left to right, although there are many exceptions). the trigger and hammer pins for the AR have two grooves: a center groove for major alignment and retention, and an offset (to one side) groove for retention. the offset groove is traditionally on the left hand side of the receiver, but it's only purpose is for the hammer spring to help hold the trigger pin in place as the trigger pin (more so than the hammer pin) can walk out if the trigger pin's hole is severely worn and allows the trigger to misalign, locking up the weapon into an unsafe condition.
my understanding is that all new AR lowers sold by dealers in California are DROS'd as rifles. So I dont think you can build a pistol off a store-bought lower.
not true: they can be "other" or rifles, but never a pistol as there are no AR-15 stripped lower pistols on the roster of safe handguns other than the Franklin Arms model 3130 and 3151 and 3153. the exception stems from people being exempt from the roster requirement, in which case you can transfer a stripped lower (that must still be "off-list") as a pistol. it is the dealer's choice if they mark an AR-15 as a rifle or not, but it's much easier to do so probably (it's literally 1 less form they fill out as part of their CAFL bookkeeping which tracks "other" firearm transfers because CA is paranoid about ghost guns).

i am a California manufacturer/dealer
 
My new wIre cutter and battle opener.
20200226_010419.jpg

Galil ARM's are sexy as hell, this one is in a non firing deactivated condition.
 
a fairly "correct" one would be a model 733/735, possibly with an older xm177 from Troy or something: https://retrorifles.com/colt-733-commando-735-c8-6933-movies-black-hawk-down-heat/

i used, and still use a rather retro (now at least) early 80's model 733 as a handy carbine. it is quite loud in doors, but is small enough that it will not feel "big" to new shooters. be aware that you should try to use an H or heavier buffer depending on the precise gas system (gas port size, position, et c) for the barrel you are purchasing. the model 733 never had consistent specifications and over the years of production would be seen with A1, A1E1, and A2 parts with only a handful of unique parts (pencil profile 10.5 to 11.5 barrel, FSB with the bayonet lug milled off, single heat shield carbine handguards, two or four position carbine buffer tubes, et c).

Brownell's has a pretty competitive one in their retro line as well: https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...upper-receivers-complete-5-56-prod123698.aspx

if you are looking for a more modern M16 Commando, you would want to review model 933 uppers, which are less expensive since the parts are produced in greater quantities than the older patterns. lots of clones out there, most being high quality (considering the two important criteria are an 11.5" barrel in a "pencil" profile: https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-11-5-5-56-nato-1-7-nitride-upper-with-bcg-charging-handle.html

.300 AAC Blackout would require a new barrel in 1:10 or for bullets heavier than 180gr, 1:8, readily available from quality retailers.

Thanks for suggestions! I would build a pistol but right now that's off the table as I'm looking to build something that doesn't involve tax stamps. Are there longer options out there that look something like, say, a Model 723?
 
Are there longer options out there that look something like, say, a Model 723?
it's actually easier to build a model 723 and 727 (or something between the two) and fairly cheap too:
1. any A2 spec lower with gen 2 or 3 "fiberlite" stock with four or 6 position buffer tube and H buffer
2. any A2 spec upper such as a brownell or DPMS upper and add an appropriate barrel assembly and upper parts kit or purchase one already assembled for cheap: https://www.midsouthshooterssupply....e-complete-upper-assembly-light-weight-barrel
3. snap together and install your lower parts, ensuring compliance with all applicable laws
4. go shoot

note that del-ton is a mediocre manufacturer and about as "cheap" as i would get and still have confidence to sell to someone that might use it for all purposes. going further "down the scale" would turn it more into a target/range type gun than something dependable for hunting or defense. the 1:9 barrel would be convenient as it'll be correct for most bullet lengths you would typically shoot (unless you want some very heavy bullets or tracers or something). and it would look the part.

a model 723 would use a C7 (A1E1 upper) and an A1 profile carbine barrel, while a model 727 would use an M4 profile barrel and A2 upper. it wasn't uncommon for police departments or some export countries to have an A2 upper and A1 carbine barrel (Israel for example or Saudi Arabia) because they didn't plan on using the M203 at all.
 
Decide which of these budget items should I get as I am a budget wagie currently at the moment. I asked the guy if the full barrel mosin nagant makes a good home defense weapon and he told me the 7.62x54R has enough power to kill the fuck but also go through his head and into the house next door.





 
Decide which of these budget items should I get as I am a budget wagie currently at the moment. I asked the guy if the full barrel mosin nagant makes a good home defense weapon and he told me the 7.62x54R has enough power to kill the fuck but also go through his head and into the house next door.





Just get a 10/22 nigga. Mosins are a terrible choice for home defense, they will absolutely overpenatrate.

Also, since people have been talking about purchasing Mosins here's a handy infographic:
5C_-_Mosin_Nagant.png
 
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Decide which of these budget items should I get as I am a budget wagie currently at the moment. I asked the guy if the full barrel mosin nagant makes a good home defense weapon and he told me the 7.62x54R has enough power to kill the fuck but also go through his head and into the house next door.





lol if you are living in suburb or urban area, full power rifle cartridge is a little dangerous for home invasion scenario. Firstly, you'll likely give yourself a measurable amount of permanent hearing damage from firing in an enclosed indoor space without ear protection, and secondly the overpenetration is a major liability to other innocent people in your home or neighboring homes.

I believe you can mitigate overpenetration to a degree by using lead-tipped/expanding point rounds, but it's still going to cut through drywall like butter unless it goes through some other substantial mass first.
 
The "how to check a bore" in the guide posted above is good general advice for purchasing any military surplus firearm. For bolt action rifles, it can be helpful to take the bolt out of the gun first - ask seller to show you how if you're uncomfortable doing it yourself, the exact process varies for different models of rifle. The Mosin is one of the easiest, as you just unlock and open the bolt, then hold down the trigger and pull the bolt straight backwards out of the receiver.

Please, do not buy a full power bolt action military surplus rifle for home defense. That would be a terrible idea - in addition to the potential for irreparable hearing damage from discharging one in an enclosed space, and the fact that the round will overpenetrate and potentially injure or kill other people (as has already been mentioned), these weapons are huge, heavy and unwieldy (the M91/30 is 48.5" long and weighs almost 9lbs empty!), slow to load and operate even when you're not in a stressful situation or in the dark, etc. etc. etc.

I honestly can't think of something commercially available that would be a worse choice than a weapon of this type for home defense, aside from a totally unserious meme option like a Barrett M82 (which would have all the same problems, just more so).
 
Decide which of these budget items should I get as I am a budget wagie currently at the moment. I asked the guy if the full barrel mosin nagant makes a good home defense weapon and he told me the 7.62x54R has enough power to kill the fuck but also go through his head and into the house next door.





between a S&W M&P 15-22 and a Mossberg 715T, i would promote the S&W as it is functionally similar to a standard AR-15 and has greater parts compatibility with aftermarket parts. the Mossberg is alright, but a bit more ammunition sensitive (in my experience) and also doesn't share a manual of arms with an AR-15 which i assume you will get at some point in the future.

i really hope you are not planning on using a .22LR as a home defense weapon.

an inexpensive used 9mm pistol like a police trade in glock would be ideal as you would be able to purchase one inexpensively, train with it inexpensively, it has a vast aftermarket available, and if it comes time to use it, they are rugged, simple, dependable - and doesn't typically set off any "alarm bells" of a jury panel. it also helps that during the investigation, while your pistol is seized, you aren't out much money and can just buy another one or something like a Maverick 88 or a used Mossberg 500.
 
I really want to get a Israeli FAL and Uzi to go with my Galil.
don't let your dreams be dreams. UZI flats and kits are going to be spiking in price in the next 2 years, and Israeli FAL/FALO parts kits are going to start getting rarer. Israeli FALs, despite having some mixed parts, are largely metric and if you aren't too keen on parts accuracy, but the overall look, you can still find most of the parts for a conversion floating around FALFiles and places like APEX or RobertRTG.
 
don't let your dreams be dreams. UZI flats and kits are going to be spiking in price in the next 2 years, and Israeli FAL/FALO parts kits are going to start getting rarer. Israeli FALs, despite having some mixed parts, are largely metric and if you aren't too keen on parts accuracy, but the overall look, you can still find most of the parts for a conversion floating around FALFiles and places like APEX or RobertRTG.
Complete deactivated Uzi's are easy to get over here but Israeli or any variant of FAL for that matter are very hard to get. L1A1 SLRs are the easiest to find but they're alway nearly £1000+.
 
Was looking at these three guns. There is the cheap ass M1911 that fires 22lr and saw people using this at the range, its surpingly loud though and big for a 22lr pistol.


And then there were these two that caught my eye, a Ruger AR-556 with fixed magazine or a Tippmann M4-22. I believe the M4 is cheaper of the two.


 
the AR-556, as the name implies, is a 5.56x45mm NATO self loading rifle. it is not in .22LR and would need a conversion kit if you intend to shoot .22LR with it.
Both gun stores in my area offer around $870 total and $650 is the price at pickup. Is this a good deal for this AR-556? Basically I can afford to waste one full paycheck on this.

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Edit: Guess I will go with this cheapest M1911-45 on the market for now. And buy the AR 556 lator. Total cost runs over $1500 for me.

 
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Both gun stores in my area offer around $870 total and $650 is the price at pickup. Is this a good deal for this AR-556? Basically I can afford to waste one full paycheck on this.
for a new name-brand AR-15, $650 is a decent price. $870 i would expect to have either some accessories or an upgraded model over the baseline (a rail interface system or something). consider that you can purchase and have shipped a complete lower, a complete upper, and snap them together for under $400 (not including shipping/tax/transfer); then $650 isn't that much higher of a price for "buying" an additional warranty for a complete rifle. you're effectively prepaying for parts/service and with some products or brands that can be an important thing. Ruger is generally a quality gun maker and has been around for a while. the Ruger AR-556 is broadly compatible with model typical AR-15 parts as well, so you're not locked into anything proprietary either.

Edit: Guess I will go with this cheapest M1911-45 on the market for now. And buy the AR 556 lator. Total cost runs over $1500 for me.

Armscor, in the Philippines, makes some of the better 1911's on the market as they've been making and using them since WW2 and have the original tooling from WW2 and Vietnam imported from the US to produce them. Armscor is also the OEM for Charles Daly and RIA, although those labels outsource to other companies too like Caspian or Black Horse. if you do purchase the Armscor/RIA, note that certain aftermarket magazines will not function reliably as it lacks the Series 80 and later improvements to the 1911 that changed the magazine well and breech block slightly. you'll want to stick with USGI type magazines (also available from Armscor) or Chip McCormick or Wilson Combat magazines.

typically, the issue with 1911 magazine is dimensional - while the magazine body may fit and work properly, the flare or lack thereof and the configuration of the base of the magazine and the butt of the pistol may interfere with each other, especially with certain extended magazines that have a thicker baseplate than normal. in .45ACP there are fewer issues than with 9mm magazines.
 
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So I guess the artwork or color makes the price difference.

 
https://youtube.com/watch?v=W0GGt0fbMW4
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So I guess the artwork or color makes the price difference.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=3W7sb9Zp-8o
I've seen people say the cheaper 1911s are sometimes literally a little "rougher around the edges," but once you get past the snobbery the cheap ones are generally fine. Id like a 1911, and I'll probably get an RIA at some point.

I'm also jealous of people near ranges that allow rapid fire and sillouette/image targets.
 
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