Mega Rad Gun Thread

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Colt Python 6'
-Pretty much just for show. I fucking love revolvers, aesthetically and a S&W is on the future list (along with a Chiappa Rhino)

FN SCAR 17S w/ Elcan SpecterDR 1.5 1.5-6x and Geissele Super SCAR Trigger
-Tacticool

Sig Sauer P220 .45 SAO
-Kind of just had a good deal with this one and plan on putting it to work to get rid of rust and refamiliarize

Sig Sauer P320 AXG Classic w/ Trijicon RMR
-Just ordered the other day, and plan on making it the CCW.


Probably have 3-5 more on the "want" list for vanity. But I'm more on the eye candy side of the house than practicality, lol.
 

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Colt Python 6'
-Pretty much just for show. I fucking love revolvers, aesthetically and a S&W is on the future list (along with a Chiappa Rhino)

FN SCAR 17S w/ Elcan SpecterDR 1.5 1.5-6x and Geissele Super SCAR Trigger
-Tacticool

Sig Sauer P220 .45 SAO
-Kind of just had a good deal with this one and plan on putting it to work to get rid of rust and refamiliarize

Sig Sauer P320 AXG Classic w/ Trijicon RMR
-Just ordered the other day, and plan on making it the CCW.


Probably have 3-5 more on the "want" list for vanity. But I'm more on the eye candy side of the house than practicality, lol.
How does a SCAR compared to a Springfield Armory M1A or their Saint Victor that fires the same cartridge. I believe they all fire the 308 Winchester iirc.
 
Fuck, I really want a 226 SAO but I don't want to buy another one.
 
Fuck, I really want a 226 SAO but I don't want to buy another one.
MSRP for the P226 Nitron SAO is supposed to be $900 (about $50 over the standard P226 Nitron), with $1099 for the Elite (depending on specific pacakge), and $1199 for the Legion (also depending on specific package). right now it's popular and there is an uptick in price for the people that super want them. the Elite and Legion are well over $1.2k at most places currently. up to you but if it's not a need right now, just wait on it and do a trade in or something once the novelty wears off.
 
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MSRP for the P226 SAO is $850. right now it's popular and there is an uptick in price for the people that super want them. the Elite and Legion are well over $1k, up to you but if it's not a need right now, just wait on it and do a trade in or something once the novelty wears off.
Aren't all the P series frames mostly universal? Shouldn't it be possible to convert from DA/SA to SAO?

Sorry if it's a stupid question, I'm not a gunsmith.
 
Aren't all the P series frames mostly universal? Shouldn't it be possible to convert from DA/SA to SAO?

Sorry if it's a stupid question, I'm not a gunsmith.
something bothered me about my memory so i actually checked my distributors for pricing, so i updated my post.

otherwise yes and no, the frame do differ between certain models (Elite Dark vs Nitron E2 frames vs "new P226" vs pre-1993 US made receiver P226 vs West German receivers, MK25 and Legion have differences too) and the caliber will also have minor changes. however those can be overcome with fitting and parts swapping mostly but not entirely. the compact variations and some like the P228/P229/M11 have differences that mean magazine compatibility issues or different guide rods, et c.

however the DAO to SAO or DA/SA to SA conversion will require some new parts unique to such a conversion, even more than the DAK to DA/SA or DA/SA to DAK which requires about a dozen parts to be swapped. basically at a shop you aren't getting away with a conversion for under $300 right now, and the frame has the added frame safety now as well, requiring some minor machining if you want a 1:1 conversion.
 
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FN SCAR 17S w/ Elcan SpecterDR 1.5 1.5-6x and Geissele Super SCAR Trigger
-Tacticool
Neat, someone dropped more on a 17 than me. How do you like the elcan? I see used ones for sale somewhat often and it makes me wonder.
 
Any walther fans in here? I have a PPQ M2 Navy SD with a Taylor freelance magwell and stendos, and I recently got the 5" barrel/slide kit with the milled slide for a red dot.

I'm wondering

1. Does anyone has any suggestions for a red dot or holo (difficulty level: I have a slight astigmatism, so red dots tend to look blurry)

And

2. Has anyone has tried one of the tungsten guide rod RSA's, and can you tell if it makes any difference for follow up shots, or getting back on target quicker?
 
red dot or holo (difficulty level: I have a slight astigmatism
you want to avoid mirrors or collimators as most people with astigmatism will get weird patterns. this rules out a lot of holographic (Eotech HWS) and some collimating red dots. simple projection based ones will probably be okay but i suggest seeing in person if at all possible since some lens coatings play weird with astigmatism. the Burris FastFire is a very cheap basic micro red dot and if you can see that fine, something like a Swampfox might be a step up and be pretty decent for most people at a reasonable cost.
tungsten guide rod RSA
not sure on the Walther but i've used and built competition Glocks (34 and 35 with a personal 17L) with tungsten guide rod assemblies and they work great at bullseye slow fire but annoying if trying for smaller splits during 3 guns or drills. depends what you want out of it since it's literally increasing mass towards the end of the pistol. for double taps your stance and support hand would matter a bit more than the RSA unless you're already doing great and want an edge.
 
Tempted to get a P220 honestly. Managed to pick up an ex-LE S&W 4566TSW and it's super comfy to shoot but no longer in production and there's not much else as far as single stack .45 DA/SAs go. Then again P220s probably aren't going to be in production for much longer either which leaves me looking at 1911s again.
 
you want to avoid mirrors or collimators as most people with astigmatism will get weird patterns. this rules out a lot of holographic (Eotech HWS) and some collimating red dots. simple projection based ones will probably be okay but i suggest seeing in person if at all possible since some lens coatings play weird with astigmatism. the Burris FastFire is a very cheap basic micro red dot and if you can see that fine, something like a Swampfox might be a step up and be pretty decent for most people at a reasonable cost.

not sure on the Walther but i've used and built competition Glocks (34 and 35 with a personal 17L) with tungsten guide rod assemblies and they work great at bullseye slow fire but annoying if trying for smaller splits during 3 guns or drills. depends what you want out of it since it's literally increasing mass towards the end of the pistol. for double taps your stance and support hand would matter a bit more than the RSA unless you're already doing great and want an edge.
I have seen some sort of beehive lens covers that are supposed to hide the flash or red dot from bad people, are those things effective?
 
Assuming you're talking about a Holographic pistol optic, they don't exist. It's possible (but probably not likely) that Eotech might make something like that in the future as a result of their "Holography 2.0" Tech they are working on that they talked about in vague terms on Kevin Brittingham's Podcast.
For a pistol red dot? The "best" are as follows in no particular order
1. Trijicon RMR Type 2 (many choices for Dot size, coloration, adjustment style ie auto or manual and even fiber optic powered models) also does better on Rifles/Shotguns/Things that aren't pistols and has less problems with flickering that some Type 1's had
2. Trijicon RMR Type 1, see above
3. Trijicon SRO (more fragile than bombproof RMRs)
4. Aimpoint ACRO P1 or P2, Enclosed Emitters meaning that rain, snow, sweat, water, blood, spit, cum etc can't get in your emitter and make your optic useless
5. Holosun Pistol optics, very controversial options, chinese made, use the RMR Footprint, have features and options other optics don't (Multiple selectable reticles, solar failsafes, can change the battery without needing to remove the optic like with RMRs and SROs). Aaron Cowen of Sage Dynamics has proven them to be exceptionally durable and long lasting in his optic tests (he has yet to have one fail despite tens of thousands of rounds and dozens of shoulder height drop tests onto concrete). Remember, CHINESE MADE. Trijicons and Aimpoints and made by wypipo in America and Sweden respectively.
Speaking of Aaron Cowen, his youtube channel Sage Dynamics has a great many tests and reviews of popular pistol optics so I would recommend consulting it before making any purchases
Now for you're astigmatism you're a little boned as Prism and Holographic pistol optics don't exist (disregard all this sperging if you meant a rifle optic)
I have seen some sort of beehive lens covers that are supposed to hide the flash or red dot from bad people, are those things effective?
I personally cannot attest to the efficiency of any "Kill Flash" but several professional groups and organizations have made usage of them over the years.
 
Tempted to get a P220 honestly.
P220's are great. you might like the CZ 97 as well. very slim for a double stack, just 0.1" thicker than the P220 and 0.1" thinner than the M1911, which many consider a relatively slim pistol for it's large size. a slightly thicker profile can fill out nice in the hand and be quite comfortable if shaped right. the S&W 4566 is a bit thicker (not much) than the M1911. they're all great pistols though. the S&W all steel duty pistols are very well made.
I have seen some sort of beehive lens covers that are supposed to hide the flash or red dot from bad people, are those things effective?
i've used them off and on (depending on the issuing agency or what's in stock) over the decades, but the kill flash does work by "trapping" light that would otherwise reflect at off angles. it doesn't work at all when facing the target. if that isn't your situation where you need to reduce reflection from the objective lens, then it does nothing for you.

if it matters, i do have one on my preferred "fighting" rifle because it's what came with the RCO and it's light weight enough to not bother wanting to take off. it's also handy for keeping rocks or something from striking the larger objective lens if i take a fall.
 
P220's are great. you might like the CZ 97 as well. very slim for a double stack, just 0.1" thicker than the P220 and 0.1" thinner than the M1911, which many consider a relatively slim pistol for it's large size. a slightly thicker profile can fill out nice in the hand and be quite comfortable if shaped right. the S&W 4566 is a bit thicker (not much) than the M1911. they're all great pistols though. the S&W all steel duty pistols are very well made.
Really the pitfall of the 4566 for me is the meh cheap plastic grips compared to what the P220 and 1911 have available. The 4566's grip angle does feel pretty natural to me though and the 1911 gets closer to that than the more curved grip of the P220.
 
I have seen some sort of beehive lens covers that are supposed to hide the flash or red dot from bad people, are those things effective?
You mean these?
I just kept it on the whenever I got issued stuff that had them.
They were issued with CCO's, Club Sandwich summed it up pretty well, at worst you put it on and forget about it and it protects the optic a bit better.
iu
 
Colt Python 6'
-Pretty much just for show. I fucking love revolvers, aesthetically and a S&W is on the future list (along with a Chiappa Rhino)

FN SCAR 17S w/ Elcan SpecterDR 1.5 1.5-6x and Geissele Super SCAR Trigger
-Tacticool

Sig Sauer P220 .45 SAO
-Kind of just had a good deal with this one and plan on putting it to work to get rid of rust and refamiliarize

Sig Sauer P320 AXG Classic w/ Trijicon RMR
-Just ordered the other day, and plan on making it the CCW.


Probably have 3-5 more on the "want" list for vanity. But I'm more on the eye candy side of the house than practicality, lol.
The socks with flip flops is a nice touch lmao
 
Apparently I discovered a tool known as the Punch, now I'm like I am happy with what I have rather than try to replace the trigger guard and fuck it all up. Plus I don't have the means at this time to get a vice to replace the muzzle brake.

I remember having to open apart a Ruger 10/22 and didn't know at the time how to take out those pins could be done easily with a punch, in the end I used like some big circular hollow metal object to hold the receiver while I used an old screwdriver and a hammer to pop it out.

It gets addicting with all these parts to replace and upgrade and all that.
Welcome to AR ownership. They're never quite complete and you just sort of keep fucking with them and changing out parts. I love that with a very minimal tool investment, you can slap one together from a box of loose parts inside of an hour.

The same is true of 10/22s once you start changing anything out - you either leave it as it was built, or you never stop fucking with it.
 
Welcome to AR ownership. They're never quite complete and you just sort of keep fucking with them and changing out parts. I love that with a very minimal tool investment, you can slap one together from a box of loose parts inside of an hour.

The same is true of 10/22s once you start changing anything out - you either leave it as it was built, or you never stop fucking with it.
Yeah, it's so true.

Looking to replace the dust cover with something from Strike Industries.

Also looking at iron sights and deciding between the Magpul Pro sight or wait till the MBUS 3 is on stock. There also is the Troy industries iron sights.
 
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