Mega Rad Gun Thread

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We jest but I hope not, for the sake of the AKs; there's some things a thumb can't fix.

Anecdotal, but I've heard of steel case failures as being more destructive, because the cases fail at a higher pressure, though I have no clue as to the accuracy of it. The failure pressures couldn't be that different between steel & brass, right?
I also question where PSA is gonna get the steel from. Shitty Chinee quality garbage, probably.
That's my biggest question about this.unless they plan to start importing the cases from the same places they're getting the tooling from and are basically going to just assemble it in the US basically.
Do you seriously think you can get worse than post-Soviet steel case?
 
Well I got my Magpul MBUS PRO sights and I am shocked how small they are.

They looked big in the pictures lol.

Looking to replace the Buffer weight from H to H2 as I noticed the BCG violently racks itself.
 
Do you seriously think you can get worse than post-Soviet steel case?
Implying that stronk steel of Soviet Russia wasn't made from stalinium? I'd trust that over anything adulterated with putinite, with the taint of capitalist on it.
 
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Looking to replace the Buffer weight from H to H2 as I noticed the BCG violently racks itself.
the buffer is a fine-tuning point for the gas system. the rifle and standard carbine buffers should work with nearly any AR-15, if you are noticing harsh recoil, bolt bounce (where the bolt carrier group slams forward with enough for that it "bounces" off the face of the breach and slightly unlocks, only to lock itself again under spring pressure), or particularly loud/unpleasant blast effects (typical of short barrels), you should then use the buffer to fine tune the action.

that being said, an H buffer is already very common on carbine length gas systems with fairly typical gas ports and a normal carbine spring and no suppressor. an H2 buffer is typical for an especially short barrel, usually under 13" assuming the gas port is not modified, but i see H2's being used on 16" barrels with carbine length gas systems to help balance things out. it's very easy to swap between the buffers, but be sure that you test and determine if it's really solving a problem. the action is meant to be fairly violent when in operation, but not excessively so.
 
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I actually got my hands on some 5.7 ammo and took my PS90 out. That thing has a bit of a learning curve to it. It was built for an optic that FN either no longer produces or doesn't sell to civilians. their replacement is a rail block with what I think is the shittiest iron sight I've ever seen put in as an afterthought. I have a vortex crossfire I put on the top of it and it sits pretty low on the rail. Still we're talking ar-15 scope on the carry handle height over bore, but you're 6-7 inches from it. The back up sights on either side of the main sight are okay, but requires a weird cheek weld. That said, fun shooter and I had enough ammo to get used to firing it.
 
It was built for an optic that FN either no longer produces or doesn't sell to civilians.
it isn't produced anymore, no demand for it after the mid 2000's where they swapped it to a tri-rail thing. the height over bore is about 4.5-5 inches. what works for the agency P90's i work on is either an Aimpoint CompM2/M3/M4 zeroed at 37 meters or a very low profile Doctor or Trijicon micro red dot zeroed at 25 meters. when zeroing you want to be about an inch low. this will give you a reasonable trajectory out to 200 meters without too much trouble. some optics like the crossfire you will either need to find the zeroing range to compensate for the height over bore difference from an AR-15 (there's math to do this, but it's very early morning so i'll work it out later) or just manually dial it in with adjustments until happy.
 
I actually got my hands on some 5.7 ammo and took my PS90 out. That thing has a bit of a learning curve to it.
Shooting a P(S)-90 should be one of the top three guns on everyone's bucket list. Much iconic, so fun.
That said, fun shooter and I had enough ammo to get used to firing it.
I've thought about doing something like AmmoSeek for forum members, I still see a lot of calibers around here that seem to have evaporated elsewhere.
 
it isn't produced anymore, no demand for it after the mid 2000's where they swapped it to a tri-rail thing. the height over bore is about 4.5-5 inches. what works for the agency P90's i work on is either an Aimpoint CompM2/M3/M4 zeroed at 37 meters or a very low profile Doctor or Trijicon micro red dot zeroed at 25 meters. when zeroing you want to be about an inch low. this will give you a reasonable trajectory out to 200 meters without too much trouble. some optics like the crossfire you will either need to find the zeroing range to compensate for the height over bore difference from an AR-15 (there's math to do this, but it's very early morning so i'll work it out later) or just manually dial it in with adjustments until happy.

I got the dot dialed in to where I want it. I dont plan on shooting it at any real distance, its more for me something to take out to the range on occasion than anything else.
 
You can always go deeper than rock bottom.
If that wasn't true my friend this forum wouldn't exist.

I'm having the urge to buy something again and just stuck as it's either gonna be really fucking strange (like I like to collect) or really fucking expensive. Sadly both might happen.

I also keep digging around and finding more half done projects I really need to finish.

That being said, I don't have a tokarov I wouldn't plan on anything other than having to have one. My cz52 is way better and ppsh43s fill another roll but if it's going be just to have do I pop for a proper sov? Lastly it has to shoot I can't own stuff I don't get to use.
 
the buffer is a fine-tuning point for the gas system. the rifle and standard carbine buffers should work with nearly any AR-15, if you are noticing harsh recoil, bolt bounce (where the bolt carrier group slams forward with enough for that it "bounces" off the face of the breach and slightly unlocks, only to lock itself again under spring pressure), or particularly loud/unpleasant blast effects (typical of short barrels), you should then use the buffer to fine tune the action.

that being said, an H buffer is already very common on carbine length gas systems with fairly typical gas ports and a normal carbine spring and no suppressor. an H2 buffer is typical for an especially short barrel, usually under 13" assuming the gas port is not modified, but i see H2's being used on 16" barrels with carbine length gas systems to help balance things out. it's very easy to swap between the buffers, but be sure that you test and determine if it's really solving a problem. the action is meant to be fairly violent when in operation, but not excessively so.
My rifle is a mid length gas system on a 16 inch barrel. I tried finding answers to this and get different responses for the mid lengths 16s as some say it works and others just stayed with the H stock version that came with it.
 
I'm having the urge to buy something again and just stuck as it's either gonna be really fucking strange (like I like to collect) or really fucking expensive. Sadly both might happen.
I’m really wanting a revolver chambered in 9mm. Trying to justify it as I already have plenty of 9mm on hand and lately rimmed ammo has been slow to return to the shelves.
 
I’m really wanting a revolver chambered in 9mm. Trying to justify it as I already have plenty of 9mm on hand and lately rimmed ammo has been slow to return to the shelves.
It's turning out that a lot can be learned about where a man lives by what ammo can be found. We've never had any shortages of rimmed ammo here, but finding anything to shoot it is rare; leverguns sell in hours. Meanwhile everyone has Glocks & ARs in stock, but no 5.56 or 9mm.
 
My rifle is a mid length gas system on a 16 inch barrel. I tried finding answers to this and get different responses for the mid lengths 16s as some say it works and others just stayed with the H stock version that came with it.
mid-length gas systems on a 16" barrel tend to be fairly good shooters, however it will depend on the gas port size in the barrel. the gas port is what allows high pressure gas into the gas key to form the fluid piston to drive the action (unlock, move rearward, vent). too large of a gas port allows too much volume of gas into the port and can be very hard recoiling unless compensated in some way (a more complex action, more recoiling mass, unusual cam or locking design, some sort of expansion chamber or bleed valve, et c). too small of a gas port increase gas port pressure for some of the same issues, but increasing pressure can introduce flame cutting at the gas port inside the barrel as well as have too little gas allowed into the system during the dwell time (where the bullet is past the gas port but has not left the barrel yet - this is when the gas system is pressurized by hot expanded gases from the fired round).

typcal gas port sizes for a mid-length gas system with a 16" barrel should be betwee 0.081" and 0.071". if the port is on the larger side, use an H2, if it's on the smaller side, use an H. to measure, use a pin gauge at the gas port after removing the gas block. if this isn't possible, i have many reference charts and barrels in my inventory and can check for you with a best guess if i know the barrel maker, year produced, and profile of the barrel. it also helps for the specific model of rifle too since there are sometimes one-offs like the early Colt 6920 Mid-length carbines which is 0.076" in size instead of 0.071".

you can also just swap buffers and slow fire and observe the recoil impulse felt. if the buffer is better tuned, the action will cycle with appropriate ejection pattern (about 2-3 o'clock) yet feel comfortable and controllable under recoil and no significant harshness or fouling observed, and no bolt carrier bounce from excessive recoil.

I’m really wanting a revolver chambered in 9mm. Trying to justify it as I already have plenty of 9mm on hand and lately rimmed ammo has been slow to return to the shelves.
some revolvers have the option of using a moon clip for 9mm ammunition. this involves shaving the cylinder for it (easy) and really is only safe on K frame and larger due to the pressures involved. some revolver shooters will keep a shaved cylinder to swap to if they feel like 9mm is cheaper and easier to obtain than .38 or puff load .357. additionally, it's very easy to reload both of those for cost savings as well and revolvers lend themselves easily to hard cast lead bullets.

i can strongly recommend Pinnacle HP for their cylinder work.
 
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Hey guys, I don't think I have enough guns, yet. I think I might need a few more guns.

stackem.jpg


The AR-10 is a little lacking in the glass department. I just ordered a Trijicon 3.5x35 with .308 aiming points for it. Gonna slap the EOTech that's on there back on the RFB where it belongs.

My SIG M400 is set up with a Magpul UBR and grip, Troy quad-rail, EOTech EXPS3 with G33 magnifier, Magpul flip-ups, and a VG6 Gamma comp.

I pretty much swear by VG6 muzzle devices, these days. They offer incredible balance. They don't over-compensate and kick down. It's just a flat push straight into the shoulder for perfect follow-up shot accuracy. They use computational fluid dynamics to design their comps to try and utilize the muzzle gases to the fullest; they really know what they're doing.

Those two little AR-15 pistols on the left have Pantheon Arms Kentri short buffers. They work by using up the space inside the bolt carrier group. Unfortunately, the action doesn't pivot open when they're installed; you have to unscrew the tailcap and pull the spring and buffer out first. They're really cool for pistols, though.

This vid shows how they work:

 
Hey guys, I don't think I have enough guns, yet. I think I might need a few more guns.
Sweet Tokarev, fam. Everything else is cool too, very much want.

Though talking about our hordes is unavoidable, posting group photos is a bit inadvisable; especially if other room details or landmarks can be made out. If you must, lay them out against a grey army blanket, and crop out everything else.

Never underestimate the power of autism, especially if it belongs to the government or thieves (same difference really).
 
Sweet Tokarev, fam. Everything else is cool too, very much want.

Though talking about our hordes is unavoidable, posting group photos is a bit inadvisable; especially if other room details or landmarks can be made out. If you must, lay them out against a grey army blanket, and crop out everything else.

Never underestimate the power of autism, especially if it belongs to the government or thieves (same difference really).
For real. I'd post my junkyard as hell AK (because I think it's fucking hilarious) and some of my other goofy toys, but I've already posted them elsewhere and they're fairly unique-looking.
 
For real. I'd post my junkyard as hell AK (because I think it's fucking hilarious) and some of my other goofy toys, but I've already posted them elsewhere and they're fairly unique-looking.
Usually the only time I post pics of something is if I've already traded it down the road, or I can get away with using detail shots. Otherwise, I use stock photos pulled from elsewhere as examples; generally I can find images close enough to my own configurations, and I don't claim the pictures as being my own.
 
I just don't post photos. I don't mind talking about what I have but once you commit your shit to the internet, that's all she wrote.
 
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