Mega Rad Gun Thread

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MrJokerRager said:
My first choice is going it the ghetto way by have the rifle between my legs and using the armorer's wrench to rip the old muzzle off and hand tighten the new one though it will take alot of effort.

My second choice is going to some gunsmith in my area, who has very high reviews from what I am seeing, to do it but I don't know his price tag yet.

My third choice is buying the Magpul Bev block and a torque wrench and a mini vise to do it on my own.
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1. unless it's been installed with Rocksett you shouldn't need to rip anything off. standard torque values for most muzzle devices are around 30ft-lbs, with certain Surefire and AAC brakes being something absurd like 50+.
2. while prices vary, usually a muzzle device swap and time with labor isn't more than $100 typically (usually less) as the process itself is some minor experience, the right tools, and around 15-20 minutes from start to finish.
3. BEV blocks are super neat, however it's generally better to use rosin + pine or a rubberized aluminum barrel block for the installation since the BEV block isn't meant for high torque values (if you need to crank the device on there) and the distance from the block to the end of the barrel might be long enough to introduce deflection or deformation on the aluminum where the steel barrel extension meets the aluminum receiver.

follow the instructions that came with the muzzle device if it needs specific toque values, and if not, a crush washer and around 30ft-lbs should be plenty safe for everything.
 
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MrJokerRager said:
Well I bought a new muzzle brake and currently deciding over three options.

My first choice is going it the ghetto way by have the rifle between my legs and using the armorer's wrench to rip the old muzzle off and hand tighten the new one though it will take alot of effort.

My second choice is going to some gunsmith in my area, who has very high reviews from what I am seeing, to do it but I don't know his price tag yet.

My third choice is buying the Magpul Bev block and a torque wrench and a mini vise to do it on my own.

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TEKTON 1/2 in. Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb.)-24335 - The Home Depot

Calibrated to an accuracy of +/- 4%, the TEKTON 1/2 in. Drive Click Torque Wrench lets you work with confidence, eliminating guessing and the common tendency to overtighten fasteners. Correctly tightening
www.homedepot.com

www.homedepot.com

OLYMPIA 4 in. Bench Vise-38-604 - The Home Depot

Olympia Tools is a widely recognized brand of hardware products designed for True Professionals who takes their tools seriously. Each piece is made to exacting tolerances and tested to ensure that it meets and exceeds industry standards so that it meet your needs on the jobsite, shop or on home...
www.homedepot.com
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Be very, very sure that your muzzle brake isn't pinned and welded before you start, especially if the Muzzlel device is what brings the full barrel length to the 16in minimum.

Trying to torque it off if it's pinned and welded will torque the barrel off the upper and wreck you gas system or trash the barrel before the brake gives.
 
Club Sandwich said:
1. unless it's been installed with Rocksett you shouldn't need to rip anything off. standard torque values for most muzzle devices are around 30ft-lbs, with certain Surefire and AAC brakes being something absurd like 50+.
2. while prices vary, usually a muzzle device swap and time with labor isn't more than $100 typically (usually less) as the process itself is some minor experience, the right tools, and around 15-20 minutes from start to finish.
3. BEV blocks are super neat, however it's generally better to use rosin + pine or a rubberized aluminum barrel block for the installation since the BEV block isn't meant for high torque values (if you need to crank the device on there) and the distance from the block to the end of the barrel might be long enough to introduce deflection or deformation on the aluminum where the steel barrel extension meets the aluminum receiver.

follow the instructions that came with the muzzle device if it needs specific toque values, and if not, a crush washer and around 30ft-lbs should be plenty safe for everything.
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Is the vise I listed in my original post, good enough, will look into barrel blocks depending on what price tag that gunsmith offers.
 
MrJokerRager said:
Is the vise I listed in my original post, good enough, will look into barrel blocks depending on what price tag that gunsmith offers.
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it'll work if all you're doing is home gamer stuff, so i wouldn't sweat it. just be sure to bolt it down to either an end of a plank or to a solid table or other surface. also a point that i glossed over, as @Dr. Hannibal Buress mentioned, be sure that you aren't dealing with a permanently installed muzzle device already on the barrel.

muzzle devices should come on and come off the same way you bolt down a toilet: sturdy torque to prevent movement, but not so much that you crack something or it's too hard to remove later. it requires very little in terms of special tools or skill, and is a matter of following directions from the manufacturer or someone more experienced to illustrate the method.
 
MrJokerRager said:
Is the vise I listed in my original post, good enough, will look into barrel blocks depending on what price tag that gunsmith offers.
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That vise should be fine. I've been using this one for multiple builds and it looks largely similar. As for barrel blocks if you wanna go that route, you can saw a 4" length off of a 2x4, then drill a 3/4" (assuming .750/standard barrel profile) or 5/8" (for .625/pencil profile) or 7/8" (for HBAR) using a Forstner bit through the center and then saw through the middle of that hole with the grain of the block to create the two halves. Apply rosin and you're good to go.
 
Club Sandwich said:
it'll work if all you're doing is home gamer stuff, so i wouldn't sweat it. just be sure to bolt it down to either an end of a plank or to a solid table or other surface. also a point that i glossed over, as @Dr. Hannibal Buress mentioned, be sure that you aren't dealing with a permanently installed muzzle device already on the barrel.

muzzle devices should come on and come off the same way you bolt down a toilet: sturdy torque to prevent movement, but not so much that you crack something or it's too hard to remove later. it requires very little in terms of special tools or skill, and is a matter of following directions from the manufacturer or someone more experienced to illustrate the method.
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Dr. Hannibal Buress said:
Be very, very sure that your muzzle brake isn't pinned and welded before you start, especially if the Muzzlel device is what brings the full barrel length to the 16in minimum.

Trying to torque it off if it's pinned and welded will torque the barrel off the upper and wreck you gas system or trash the barrel before the brake gives.
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Yeah I looked at the muzzle and the online product page for it, the muzzle device has no predrilled hole and the barrel is already 16 inches long.
 
TerminalTryHard said:
Apparently Springfield is making a hi power clone and early rumors are that it's not shit.
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Still never buying Springfield. Fuck them forever.
Cpl. Long Dong Silver said:
Just my opinion but Hi Powers are just for hipster boomers who want to flex on 1911 owners.

Modern CZ boys = old fudds with Hi Powers
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Hi Powers are legitimately fun guns and way better than 1911s. I think the military should have adopted them instead honestly.
MrJokerRager said:
Surefire or streamlight since the steiner stuff or eotrch laser light combo reminds me how poor I am lol.
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Get a Streamlight. If you're not working with your firearm, there is no reason to spend hundreds of dollars on a Surefire, Modlite, or Cloud Defense. It just doesn't make economical sense and Streamlights are fine lights anyway.
 
I’ve always thought the hi power is criminally undeveloped. It’s smaller and slimmer than any of the later wondernines, not to mention any of the modern striker fired polys. If it had continued to be modernized I think it would still be in common service today. The only thing that has come close are the new 9mm microcompacts like the SIG p365. Saive and Browning were masters of minimal design. Just look at the Winchester 94 or FAL.
 
White Devil said:
Still never buying Springfield. Fuck them forever.

Hi Powers are legitimately fun guns and way better than 1911s. I think the military should have adopted them instead honestly.

Get a Streamlight. If you're not working with your firearm, there is no reason to spend hundreds of dollars on a Surefire, Modlite, or Cloud Defense. It just doesn't make economical sense and Streamlights are fine lights anyway.
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Pretty much how I feel about Springfield, but I do want a hi power. I had hopes because the Canadian army is getting rid of there but I still haven't seen any pop up and the last time I looked on gun broker it was all boomers asking like $1100 for them and fuck that.

I don't know might wait and get a used one if they turn out to be ok.
 
TerminalTryHard said:
hi power clone
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it's a bit different from the original enough that i wouldn't exactly call it a clone in the same way i don't call the Browning Tactical Practicals a clone. they are still based closely on the HP's design though.
White Devil said:
If you're not working with your firearm, there is no reason to spend hundreds of dollars on a Surefire, Modlite, or Cloud Defense.
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a lot of people that work professionally with firearms use Streamlights simply because they buy their own gear. department issue gear hands out SureFires because of bulk discounts on agency purchases a lot of the time and agencies often issue it all with only a few as spares. the various Streamlight kits tend to work pretty good and the TLR series of weapon lights are very popular with law enforcement.
TerminalTryHard said:
I do want a hi power
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they are a bit expensive, but you can still find relatively inexpensive ones imported from contract manufacturers and unlicensed manufacturers still. the Hungarian FEG for example was imported in huge quantities and i see pop up for sale in the low $600's. Charles Daly imported leftover Hungarian parts kits and they were manufactured on US-made frames by Dan Wesson and Magnum Research and are around pawn shops and smaller places for $500 or so since they were cheap to begin with and were a "nicer" FEG Hi Power anyway but didn't really retain much collector value.

there's also like two Turkish clones of the Hi Power on the market as well, so you have some choices. $1k can get you a good shooter Hi Power sight unseen, probably a Browning made or Browning imported one. former police and military Hi Powers are largely harder to find out there, but they're still there if you trawl listings and places like falfiles.
 
Meat Target said:
What exactly was the scummy thing they did, again?
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it's been mentioned before, but SA, together with RRA, formed a local lobbyist group and part of the dealings of that group were carve outs for their companies but shutting out smaller businesses from certain IL gun control legislation. they dissolved the lobbyist group and both have actively worked towards improving their image. this sort of thing isn't new in the gun industry since you functionally have to make these sorts of deals to continue to do business.

a decent write-up is here: https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/springfield-armorys-gun-rights-turn-around/
 
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