Mega Rad Gun Thread

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WhoBusTank69 said:
During their conception and today, it's absolutely meant and intended to be "bigger mag" - the problem arrives when in the hands of people who want bigger mag who also do not maintain anything. Even the WWSD pair dropped the drum intended for the initial contact concept.
It's more effective to go the same route the RPK did in just having a bigger magazine, I think coffin mags/40 rounders have finally stabilized in quality.
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Of the ones I had, the only lemons I encountered were a couple old Russian & new Chinese mags; the Russians just had worn-out springs or damage, and the post-AWB Chinese mags being the worst in terms of overall quality. For the rest, as long as I kept them very lubricated & properly wound, I didn't have any problems, with 75rd. drums being the absolute best in terms of function. It wasn't possible to identify the year of manufacture, but if I had to guess, it seemed like any made circa 70's & 80's was ideal.

And then there's AR drum mags..... I understand they've gotten better, but holy shit they universally sucked donkeyballs back in the day. They were so bad to where if I was in gunfight & given the choice: three 20rd mag or a Magpul drum made last year, I'd still reach for the old 20s.
 
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Pocket Dragoon said:
three 20rd mag or a Magpul drum made last year, I'd still reach for the old 20s.
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the only two AR drum mags that worked for me out of the box were the old MWG snail drums or the Magpul D-60. the Beta-C was a complete non starter if you had any debris at all near it. it wasn't until H&K made a bunch for their MG36 project that they worked fine for that. the KCI drum is hit or miss, the X-Products drum is pretty decent but much heavier than it should be and the skeletonized version is a minefield for debris catching. other than the novelty i stick with normal mags.
 
White Devil said:
I have never actually used a drum mag. I've always been interested in those helical AK mags the Norkies use and the one for the Russian bizon. I believe Calico also had decent working helical magazines but I've never seen one in the flesh.
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The Nork helical magazine is definitely near the top of my bucket-list of firearm unobtaniums; and is the only component, rather than the gun itself. Even if they're garbage; pretty much the only way to get one is off a dead or defecting gook, so......
 
Pocket Dragoon said:
The Nork helical magazine is definitely near the top of my bucket-list of firearm unobtaniums; and is the only component, rather than the gun itself. Even if they're garbage; pretty much the only way to get one is off a dead or defecting gook, so......
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I've only ever seen them on AKs of the soldiers guarding Kim, and one time at a parade, so who knows if thats even mass issued for their military.
 
Particle Bored said:
Not sure how I feel about this silly shit:
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I think that's probably a 22 upper so there's no buffer necessary.

Personally I want to build some goofy shit like that, though maybe with different styling idk.
Club Sandwich said:
there are a handful of good designs like the MWG 90 or the Magpul D-60. even the Beta-C works surprisingly well, but they have limits and are not intended for regular use outside of a particular rifle to use them. a lot of the more common aftermarket casket and drum mags are garbage, but same are "okay". the Surefire 60 worked pretty well even if the 100 round version was trash. what a lot of users don't get is they have a maintenance schedule and are either complex (PPSh, Auto-Ord/Thompson, Beta-C) or simple (MWG 90, RPD, et c) and they are quite different from a typical box magazine.

as a first contact device that you dump after exhausting it's alright. i've used something like that before and it works fine. for regular use in place of normal mags isn't ideal at all and i think that's the mistake people make with drum mags. rather than as a specific tool, it's just "bigger mag".
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KCI mags are fantastic. Run like butter.
 
Particle Bored said:
Nah it's 5.56. Thats why theres the little button sticking out the back of the birdshead; their proprietary curved "buffer tube" is a bit too long for the grip so it sticks out.

On a side note, I have decided i'd like one.
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Oh weird, good catch.

I saw some files for like 3d printed pirate guns that I thought were either super gay or super hilarious, so I put it on my backlog to make someday.

I still gotta see if I can smuggle my 3d printed 10-22 into the range. I spraypainted it, I'm going tomorrow, let's see if the fudds catch me.
 
I've a couple norinco ar-15 drums in my closet, from way-back when Clinton signed the Crime Bill.

Only time I ever tried to use one... I was probably 100rounds into sustained semi-auto fire when my forward handguard fell off.

The barrel was getting so smoking hot it forced the screws out of the forward handguard retainer/gasblock, in my estimate.
 
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I recently acquired a S&W Model 19-3 in .357 mag. Judging by the serial # it's from 1966, and I even received the original holster. It's in great shape as it was mostly used as a range toy/home defense, however I intend to use it quite a bit more. It's my first revolver, and from a few cursory searches, I see a lot of people suggest practicing with .38 specials and carrying .357 mags, mostly due to the lighter cylinder walls of the K-frames. Is there any truth to this or is this just some fudd lore?
Luella.png

The black square is where the person I inherited it from engraved my initials.
 
plgfarts said:
mostly due to the lighter cylinder walls of the K-frames
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heavy .357 loads are alright in a K-frame, which when it was the gun to get was a 158gr hard cast or jacketed bullet on top of 8-1/2gr of HiSkor 800-X, travelling about 1350f/s. the issue is very light 125gr or 130gr SWC and the like. the short bullet allows a bit too much hot gas to escape from the cylinder gap after the bullet jumps the cylinder to the forcing cone and this extra high temperature/high pressure gas starts flame cutting the top strap, which is noticeable as a line in the frame. over time this will shatter the frame. the crush fit barrel of later models is also not quite as durable as earlier pinned barrels for very heavy bullets in .357 S&W Mag pressures (Oregon 180's or Lyman 210's). not only is it excessive pressure, but the powder to produce the typical velocity with those bullets in anything but a pet load will begin the stretch the frame much faster than a steady diet of modest 158gr's at around 1250 or 1300 f/s. .38 S&W Special will work fine in a K-frame basically forever and the most danger you have is a doublecharge or something rare.

flame cutting after a thousand rounds or so. if you can feel it with your fingernail, it's getting real bad. discoloration is normal. a line of hard to remove carbon is normal. an actual cut is not.

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if you want to shoot any .357 load you want to without worry, get a Model 27 or similar N-frame equivalent. most of Ruger's .357 line up is excellent against frame stretch, and hardy against flame cutting, a GP100 or Service Six will last quite a bit longer than the equivalent S&W model if using the same light .357 loads since there's more "meat" in the top strap typically. Dan Wesson revolvers have a bevel that disperses the gas away from the top strap, et c there are many designs in modern (past 1970) revolvers where this isn't much of an issue. or you could just not use hot 125gr loads.
 
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carolina shooter supply finally has the steel saiga magazines back in stock, and i ordered the 8 round version. i've been waiting to get one for months now, i'm so happy!

shit i think i got their last 8 rounder as well
 
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plgfarts said:
I recently acquired a S&W Model 19-3 in .357 mag. Judging by the serial # it's from 1966, and I even received the original holster. It's in great shape as it was mostly used as a range toy/home defense, however I intend to use it quite a bit more. It's my first revolver, and from a few cursory searches, I see a lot of people suggest practicing with .38 specials and carrying .357 mags, mostly due to the lighter cylinder walls of the K-frames. Is there any truth to this or is this just some fudd lore?
View attachment 3131887

The black square is where the person I inherited it from engraved my initials.
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My understanding, from spending way too much time online, is that the forcing cone on the K-frame has the potential to crack from shooting the faster .357 loads. The weak point being the small flat area cut from the bottom of the barrel to allow the cylinder to close. These articles go into more detail:

https://www.ssusa.org/content/how-to-avoid-revolver-forcing-cone-failure/

https://www.gunblast.com/Butch_MagnumLoads.htm

I think the L-frame was developed primarily to address this issue.
 
Jesus Goldstein said:
L-frame was developed primarily to address this issue
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the L-frame was a reinforced medium frame, whereas the N-frame was specifically for larger calibers like .44. part of the enlargement of the L-frame was allowing more room for the "beefier" cylinder and yoke, which consequently removed the need to separately machine the underside of the forcing cone in earlier models of the K-frame, which was meant for .38 S&W Special (smokeless powder) and not subject to .357 Keith loads (158gr hard cast lead at 1500 f/s) on the regular. while K-frame can do it, they weren't designed for that. the factor here is peak pressure, not necessarily speed or bullet weight.

if you want to avoid a forcing cone issue in a K-frame then keep to .38's and modest .357 infrequently.
 
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Installed a pistol grip/buffer tube stock on my Mossberg Maverick. Gonna take 'er to the range today.
 
Hippopatumus said:
I got a 590 for Christmas, and it is SO MUCH FUN to shoot. I'd take it out over an AR any day for pure satisfaction.

Take some dragons breath with you to the range, the RSO will get a kick out of that.
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I'm constrained to an indoor range run by persnickety gits who prohibit using Tulammo because gibs me dat brass muh fire hazard (while having it for sale in the lobby).
 
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