Mega Rad Gun Thread

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I'd go with a Swiss 55x series rifle over an AK and AR for that kind of application.
That being said if you had to maintain mag and caliber compatibility I'd go with a 556 AK Pistol with folding stock/brace over current piston builds. Or maybe even a shorty AR-180.
SBR route is obligatory - even for personal use the brace is unfavorable and without considering the legal optimism. If it were an issue I'd sooner go back to being stockless and bracing with the sling.
I completely forgot the Swiss 55x were imported, might be cool if I could find one.
5.56 AK it is, at least there's parts out there. I'm pissed all the STANAG adapters disappeared though.
You could also try a bullpup with an SBR (Aug with 13.8 inch comes to mind).
If I wanted to look like a faggot I would absolutely get a bullpup.
 
SBR route is obligatory - even for personal use the brace is unfavorable and without considering the legal optimism. If it were an issue I'd sooner go back to being stockless and bracing with the sling.
I completely forgot the Swiss 55x were imported, might be cool if I could find one.
5.56 AK it is, at least there's parts out there. I'm pissed all the STANAG adapters disappeared though.

If I wanted to look like a faggot I would absolutely get a bullpup.
You can find Zastava M85s with the STANAG adapter still. Parts are plentiful, they're not that different parts wise from a regular AKM. They're going to be heavier than ARs though.
You can find SBR 55x rifles all day long on Gunbroker, just be prepared to pay out the ass for them. Does it have to be a rifle caliber or would you consider a PCC?
 
Does it have to be a rifle caliber or would you consider a PCC?
I already have a few options lined up, just wanted an opinion from strangers on the internet that aren't on /k/ as to whether or not piston ARs were worth a shit. Cursory browsing gave me similar opinions so I've got my mind made up.
 
SBR route is obligatory - even for personal use the brace is unfavorable and without considering the legal optimism. If it were an issue I'd sooner go back to being stockless and bracing with the sling.
I completely forgot the Swiss 55x were imported, might be cool if I could find one.
5.56 AK it is, at least there's parts out there. I'm pissed all the STANAG adapters disappeared though.

If I wanted to look like a faggot I would absolutely get a bullpup.
Look, it's just a choice. If you really want to look like a faggot go by a XM-8 clone.
 
i've outfitted some people with HK53 rifles for special vehicle duties and they work quite well when you stick with M193 and use a #15 locking piece and 25 round magazines. about the size of an MP5, a little shorter from top of the receiver to bottom of the magazine, and maintains ammunition commonality. you can either keep or have a folding or collapsing stock as you see fit and it can be made suppressor-ready as well. i have an old HK33KA3 which, while it's longer than the HK53, is a good mid-size length to keep some velocity in the 5.56 imho.
 
For the most compact rifle possible(folding stock/SBR) is the AK still the go-to option or are piston ARs catching up? Collapsible stocks when sliding out of vehicles are ass and I don't want to experiment with the folding adapters, the added leverage to the buffer tube scares me.
You could always look for a Beretta ARX100
ARX100SBR.jpg

There is also the Galil ACE pistol.
My understanding is a folder isn't too difficult to attach.
 
For something short with a folding stock take a look at the short stroke piston driven BRN-180. It has an adjustable gas block that is suppressor ready and is not too spendy.
 
Got to play with an MPX K today. It’s a pretty slick gun but not worth the ~$2000 price tag. I am curious to see if anyone else will follow on with the AR-18 style of return spring on a PCC as it will allow a folding stock.

I still keep an old WASR as a truck gun. I always preferred the AK for vehicle guns as it does fold up smaller.
 
Anyone here familiar with tannerite? Would like to blast some 1/4lb targets on the 4th but I'm unsure about safe distance. They say 100 yards minimum but when I watch videos of 1/4lb shots 100 yards looks like overkill. I only have 50 yards in my backyard. Safe? or not? I am around 15 acres or so to the nearest neighbor and my backyard is in a deep valley with excellent backstop, but the issue is most of my land is very thick forest.
 
Anyone here familiar with tannerite? Would like to blast some 1/4lb targets on the 4th but I'm unsure about safe distance. They say 100 yards minimum but when I watch videos of 1/4lb shots 100 yards looks like overkill. I only have 50 yards in my backyard. Safe? or not? I am around 15 acres or so to the nearest neighbor and my backyard is in a deep valley with excellent backstop, but the issue is most of my land is very thick forest.
Trust me you want the 100yds. The last thing you want is shrapnel from the container of whatever you have it set on to come back and win you trip to the ER.
 
Sad, okay.
Yes. Please don't end up like one of my calls, where some dumb ass took his tannerite and used it on a bunch of his broken power tools and an angle grinder blade severed is femoral artery.
It was only funny for the first 5 seconds before I got covered in blood trying to tourniquet him while keeping the idiot from panicking and crying for his mother.
How there was no Darwin awards? I dunno, lucky idiot.

Edit: Forgot to mention dumb cunt pulled the blade out of his leg...
 
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Anyone here familiar with tannerite?
let me tell you something from many years of professional and personal experience with many sorts of explosives and munitions: if you have to question the instructions and lack the experience to make an informed decision, then you shouldn't be handling explosives. it isn't really the tannerite that is an issue, it's the circumstances under which it detonates - shrapnel is extremely deadly if you lack personal protection or a blast shield.

in your specific situation, assuming you are following the directions exactly (1:1 dry mixture in static/dust/lint free container kept clean and uncontaminated by solvents, not under pressure, and not subject to sudden shock until ready to detonate), you will want to use 1/10th of 1 lb for a 50 meter safe distance without significant protection, or 1/8th of 1 lb if you have some protection (ear/eye, a waist level shield). if you have shrapnel you want to intentionally expose to an explosive, do so with a blast shield (3/8th inch steel reinforced glass laminate sufficient to stand behind or similar structure).

a very safe use of tannerite is 1/12th lb at 50 meters with some colored chalk or fabric dye and flour/cornstarch and no shrapnel. it'll produce some nice colored puffs alongside the fireball. use some copper or iron powder sprinkled on top if you want some intense simple green or red colors.
 
Lol, I wasn't planning on sticking it in an old fridge or lawnmower or something, I would shoot it sitting on a patch of open grass while I'm uphill from it laying prone.

But,

if you have to question the instructions and lack the experience to make an informed decision, then you shouldn't be handling explosives.

Is fair advice. I have some smaller hi-sensitivity targets designed for 22lr, I will just use those and save the tannerite for a time where I can use a bigger area.
 
I figured since it's going on an M92. I just used to use a thumb stop or angled grip, but that's me.
Also, I feel Bonesteel Arms makes the best tacticlol handguard for Yugo pistols. https://stormwerkz.com/scope-mounts/yugoslavian-m92m85-scope-mount/ is what I had on my M85 to avoid that tacky ass scope melting Ultimak rail.
Personally I don't like the full rail look for AKs. My last one had a full sided pic rail and ended up looking gaudy once I put a bcm grip and light on it.

The top mount that comes with the alpha version of the m92 looks like that. Speaking of the alpha version, anyone who tells you the rear pic rail is easily removable is a fucking liar. My gunsmith had to get the bolt red hot before it would come loose. The CNC warrior brace itself is a tank, studier than most stocks I've used. Length of pull is a bit shorter than expected, but with an Eotech I'm not getting a cheek weld anyways.

Got a chance to put a few rounds down range after putting the stock on and its nice. More recoil than a full size AK, but not enough to make it hard to control.
 
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Personally I don't like the full rail look for AKs. My last one had a full sided pic rail and ended up looking gaudy once I put a bcm grip and light on it.

The top mount that comes with the alpha version of the m92 looks like that. Speaking of the alpha version, anyone who tells you the rear pic rail is easily removable is a fucking liar. My gunsmith had to get the bolt red hot before it would come loose. The CNC warrior brace itself is a tank, studier than most stocks I've used. Length of pull is a bit shorter than expected, but with an Eotech I'm not getting a cheek weld anyways.

Got a chance to put a few rounds down range after putting the stock on and its nice. More recoil than a full size AK, but not enough to make it hard to control.
I wouldn't know about the current Alpha version of anything Zastava sells, my Yugos were CAI imports thus the need for the Stormwerkz mod. I had full wood and full rail for my guns though, just depended on how I felt. None of my AKs are serious weapons to me, just toys that I treat with the deadly respect they deserve.
That being said, are you talking about the pic rail by itself or the whole dust cover? The dust cover should be hard to move by design since it's a hinge system and you need that to be rigid as possible for optic zeroing purposes.
 
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