Romulus augustulus
kiwifarms.net
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- Apr 6, 2023
you can also convert to 9.3x62
Mega Rad Gun Thread
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- Joined
- Jan 6, 2024
What’s everyone’s thoughts on using a full synthetic motor oil in place of a gun oil? I realized I’m low, so I bought some Hoppes today but had me thinking of the fudds always saying to just use motor oil.
Did a good bit of autistic googling earlier and I’ve seen people recommend doing a 2:1 mix of motor oil and ATF. I’ve seen people use straight up mineral oil. And a few people using straight up used cooking oil.
Did a good bit of autistic googling earlier and I’ve seen people recommend doing a 2:1 mix of motor oil and ATF. I’ve seen people use straight up mineral oil. And a few people using straight up used cooking oil.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
I don't run my guns crazy-hard or in bizarre environments like the desert or the arctic, so I've just used synthetic motor oil. I'm open to being wrong and yelled at about how dumb it is, but for me "it just works".
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2023
If you can get your hands on a carl gustaf recoilless rifle, that thing is way more fun.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2024
Admittedly I’m no expert or scientist, so I’m the last to weigh in on what’s best. But some comments I’ve seen is to get true synthetic, and to mainly run it with handguns that don’t have wood foregrips. The idea being is that a rifle like an AR will vaporize the oil due to its gas system etc.
MrJokerRager
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2019
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2019
A new Russian pistol in 9x21, the SR.1MP:
It's like the unholy offspring between a Makarov and an FN.
Ugly as it is, I still want one; but it's the cartridge (9x21 Gyurza) that interests me the most... especially for subguns & PCC.
And get a load of their optimistic, totally effective cans...
AFAIK they haven't developed a subsonic 9x21, because that'd defeat the purpose of the round; but I guess everything gets a suppressor these days.
It's like the unholy offspring between a Makarov and an FN.
Ugly as it is, I still want one; but it's the cartridge (9x21 Gyurza) that interests me the most... especially for subguns & PCC.
And get a load of their optimistic, totally effective cans...
AFAIK they haven't developed a subsonic 9x21, because that'd defeat the purpose of the round; but I guess everything gets a suppressor these days.
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- Joined
- Mar 12, 2021
I'm kind of ok with this.
Don't forget 6.5mm Swedish Mauser and 7.65mm Belgian Mauser (I think some South American countries also used that cartridge).
Made me fucking lol. Makes me think of how some British boomers don't like it when people say .303 British, especially within Britain.
I've always wanted a .458 pinger ever since first seeing images of one.
It's not just an automatic .458, but one which locks open and spits the empty clip out, so that you can then load in another eight whole rounds of .458 in one go.
MrJokerRager
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2019
r/CAguns bitching and moaning about PSA lol.
Why should they do business with a state that will not hesitate to sue them over retarded shit.
A state whose voters that own guns, and plenty of them vote for niggerfaggots like Newsom and Bonta because muh abortion and TDS.
Why should they do business with a state that will not hesitate to sue them over retarded shit.
A state whose voters that own guns, and plenty of them vote for niggerfaggots like Newsom and Bonta because muh abortion and TDS.
Fried-Rice12
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2024
The South and Central American countries use the 7mm Spanish Mauser. I worked with a former guerilla fighter from the El Salvadoran Civil War in the meat department of a grocery store and he told me that the Mausers they used were the 7mm round and not the standard 8mm Mauser.
I have not heard of the Belgian Mauser, because AFAIK the Belgian used French armaments and calibers.
If someone owns guns, why are they even living in bear-turd state?
It is one thing to be stuck (for now) in a shithole like Canada (me) but there are no excuses when one lives in the US.
Romulus augustulus
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2023
FNH made all sorts of mauser rifles. the earliest of which was the model 1889 in 7.65x53 Mauser. after WW2 the converted a lot of their Mausers to .30-06 and eventually made sniper rifles based on the Mauser 98 in 7.62x51 NATO.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2020
Luke 11:11-12: "What father among you would hand your son a snake when he asks for a fish? Or a scorpion when he asks for an egg?"
Unless you're innafield and need to lube up your guns in a pinch, treat them with TLC.
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2022
Looks kind of cool ngl. Especially interesting in the AP punch, given it's in 9x21. But yes, that can is fucking gay. Just leave it bare, it doesn't need a suppressor.A new Russian pistol in 9x21, the SR.1MP:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=gzvf0JQjiyA
It's like the unholy offspring between a Makarov and an FN.
View attachment 5726377
Ugly as it is, I still want one; but it's the cartridge (9x21 Gyurza) that interests me the most... especially for subguns & PCC.
View attachment 5726378
And get a load of their optimistic, totally effective cans...
View attachment 5726379
View attachment 5726380
AFAIK they haven't developed a subsonic 9x21, because that'd defeat the purpose of the round; but I guess everything gets a suppressor these days.
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2022
Time for Balls' Dirty Secrets. I almost never use "Gun" oil. If something needs cleaned or oiled, it'll get Hoppe's 9 Bore Solvent, and then a nice liberal application of 3-In-1 oil. I've never had issues with 3-In-1. It does amazing as far as lubrication, and doesn't seem to attract powder and debris the same way that "Gun" specific oils seem to. Also doesn't dry nearly as quick, I like to run my guns wet. I use the shit for everything. Even hydromodded a Casio World Timer in a steel and sapphire case with it.
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2023
3-in-1 is the greatest thing ever.
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2022
Oddly enough, after reading this comment and I got recommended a CLP video by Project Farm. I then remembered my bottle of Frog Lube CLP and spent the morning cleaning a few firearms that haven't gotten love for a minute.
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
conventional wisdom is lithium grease on large moving parts, a light machine oil on everything else, do not use oil in areas that experience high pressure gasses unless it's an external piston with rings in which case a light lithium grease is okay. follow the recommendations from the manufacturer where possible. for the AR-15 and AR-10 in particular (but not the AR-18 amusingly), they are designed specifically for LSA/CLP exclusively with grease only ever being used on the carrier rails themselves. after the 1980's, CLP obsoleted the greased carrier rails. if "light machine oil" is unavailable, synthetic motor oil is probably ok, but not recommended due to viscosity concerns and possible problems with temperature change, water exposure, rust prevention ability, ability to form a barrier as well as absorb oxygen over time, ability to avoid attracting debris, and avoid unwanted interactions with finishes and multiple materials not typically found in engines.
generally speaking if it's 5w30 or something it's ok in a pinch as a lubricant because it can form a thin film layer and flow into some small crevices, however motor oil is not formulated for finishes, wood/plastics, or wicking properties and isn't really ideal for for surface lubrication (going from a cold gun to one that warms up and keeping lubricants in place). firearms are composed of a variety of materials and often have both large flat surfaces, close fitting surfaces, and close fitting clearances. these work best with lubricants that do not attract moisture or debris, are able to stay in place with mild handling or motion or temperature variances, and can be applied thinly to avoid pumping.
3-in-1 oil, mineral oil, sewing machine oil, all can work for automatic handguns because they are thin enough to lubricate the moving parts and tend to stay in place. in some environments like repeat rain exposure, salt from sweat or the ocean spray, or in deserts, they can emulsify, flash/evaporate and not form a film, or separate and thin and run off. additionally carbon and various salts used in cheaper ammo can combine with some components of the oil and thicken it unexpectedly. 3-in-1 is an okay and safe lubricant largely due to the naphtha, petroleum-based ingredients, while gun oils (for example i'll pick Hoppe's lubricating oil), often have cyclohexane, and ethylbenzene which greatly reduce water beading or wicking in the area (forming a barrier against oxygen) and absorbing oxygen through chemical bonding. other compounds typically are used as a thickener or as a bonding agent to keep the solution in place and together.
the general rule of thumb is to avoid molybdenum lubricants and stick with lithium based or petroleum based ones, with lithium soap forming a detergent/dispersant grease compound that is excellent for large moving surfaces like bolt raceways, lugs, cam surfaces, and other massive moving parts. a light machine oil of some kind (and this can really be anything that has the correct properties) is used on small parts, parts that fit closely together that might have a pump out effect or require wicking into a crevice, or as a light surface protection from water or other corrosive substances when applied thinly regularly, does not attract fouling easily, and is safe to use on all surfaces and components (plastic/wood/steel/alloy) of a firearm. if you have a blued firearm, avoid ammonia based solvents or heavy ester compounds to preserve the bluing.
most springs are to be lightly oiled, gas pistons assemblies are to have very thinly applied greased, gas ports and small gas tubes are to be cleaned and kept dry (they are subject to hot pressured gases that carbon coat them and other than obstruction do not need lubrication). chambers should be free of debris and a brass brush used now and then on inspection, the bore should be flushed with either near-boiling hot water and alternating patches of light oil and dry patches used to achieve a bright bore, then a final pass with a well-oiled patch. it is preferable to go in the same direction as the bullet's travel and if going the other way it's a good idea to use a muzzle device to center the rod or take precautions to avoid damage to the crown. locking lugs, bolt raceways and other large moving parts should have a dab of lithium grease spread thinly and the part itself used to move the grease around. trigger mechanisms should use a light machine oil applied with a dropper near pivot points and at engagement surfaces with the exception of the sear which should have a small drop of grease evenly spread to transparency. parts that rotate like a revolver's cylinder axel should also get a thin layer of grease, same like a bolt raceway.
specifically for hunting rifles and shotguns, a lubricant that has a strong wax emulsifier applied immediately before a hunt can greatly protect a firearm when doing upland waterfowl hunting or stalking through brush and protect the oil layer under the wax layer. the wax layer (rem oil for example) is not a rust preventative itself, but is handy for getting water out of places it shouldn't be. WD-40 is a similar thing - it isn't a lubricant or rust preventative but is handy to remove water from an area or keep water out of that area.
for competitive shooters, a copper sulfide based grease is very nice for shotgun bolts and bolt carriers, lifters (small surface area, but large moving part), the interior of receivers, and for slide action rails.
3-in-1 oil, mineral oil, sewing machine oil, all can work for automatic handguns because they are thin enough to lubricate the moving parts and tend to stay in place. in some environments like repeat rain exposure, salt from sweat or the ocean spray, or in deserts, they can emulsify, flash/evaporate and not form a film, or separate and thin and run off. additionally carbon and various salts used in cheaper ammo can combine with some components of the oil and thicken it unexpectedly. 3-in-1 is an okay and safe lubricant largely due to the naphtha, petroleum-based ingredients, while gun oils (for example i'll pick Hoppe's lubricating oil), often have cyclohexane, and ethylbenzene which greatly reduce water beading or wicking in the area (forming a barrier against oxygen) and absorbing oxygen through chemical bonding. other compounds typically are used as a thickener or as a bonding agent to keep the solution in place and together.
the general rule of thumb is to avoid molybdenum lubricants and stick with lithium based or petroleum based ones, with lithium soap forming a detergent/dispersant grease compound that is excellent for large moving surfaces like bolt raceways, lugs, cam surfaces, and other massive moving parts. a light machine oil of some kind (and this can really be anything that has the correct properties) is used on small parts, parts that fit closely together that might have a pump out effect or require wicking into a crevice, or as a light surface protection from water or other corrosive substances when applied thinly regularly, does not attract fouling easily, and is safe to use on all surfaces and components (plastic/wood/steel/alloy) of a firearm. if you have a blued firearm, avoid ammonia based solvents or heavy ester compounds to preserve the bluing.
most springs are to be lightly oiled, gas pistons assemblies are to have very thinly applied greased, gas ports and small gas tubes are to be cleaned and kept dry (they are subject to hot pressured gases that carbon coat them and other than obstruction do not need lubrication). chambers should be free of debris and a brass brush used now and then on inspection, the bore should be flushed with either near-boiling hot water and alternating patches of light oil and dry patches used to achieve a bright bore, then a final pass with a well-oiled patch. it is preferable to go in the same direction as the bullet's travel and if going the other way it's a good idea to use a muzzle device to center the rod or take precautions to avoid damage to the crown. locking lugs, bolt raceways and other large moving parts should have a dab of lithium grease spread thinly and the part itself used to move the grease around. trigger mechanisms should use a light machine oil applied with a dropper near pivot points and at engagement surfaces with the exception of the sear which should have a small drop of grease evenly spread to transparency. parts that rotate like a revolver's cylinder axel should also get a thin layer of grease, same like a bolt raceway.
specifically for hunting rifles and shotguns, a lubricant that has a strong wax emulsifier applied immediately before a hunt can greatly protect a firearm when doing upland waterfowl hunting or stalking through brush and protect the oil layer under the wax layer. the wax layer (rem oil for example) is not a rust preventative itself, but is handy for getting water out of places it shouldn't be. WD-40 is a similar thing - it isn't a lubricant or rust preventative but is handy to remove water from an area or keep water out of that area.
for competitive shooters, a copper sulfide based grease is very nice for shotgun bolts and bolt carriers, lifters (small surface area, but large moving part), the interior of receivers, and for slide action rails.
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MrJokerRager
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2019
The pigs of California oppressing a based nigger for trying to protect himself in one of the biggest shitholes in California.
Californian pigs with badges deserve no respect.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CAguns/comments/1asdwvz/richmond_man_arrested_with_241_guns_including_lmgs/
Californian pigs with badges deserve no respect.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2018
Now that's a fucking collection a shame how most will get chopped up with a select couple specimens disappearing due to reporting errors. Reminds me of this story about how gangster in Canada got raided and one of his pieces was a WA2000 and there was a petition to not let it get destroyed ultimately it didn't and it was given to some gun shop for rental.