Mega Rad Gun Thread

[HumptiDouji]

https://midwestindustriesinc.com/mi-tactical-light-mount/

On one hand, I like the solution, on another I don't personally like the idea of not being able to fit a bayonet (though some ARs don't have the correct length for that anyway). Does it affect harmonics any?

There are two transfer bars that run under the action into the foregrip.

Fair enough. Do they seem fragile or something?

 

[74164978231]

MPX or MP5?
Weigh in your opinions

MPX if you really care about ergos.

MP5 if you plan to suppress
MP5 if want something iconic

Fundamental problem with MPX is its a pita to suppress due to its idiotic tapered barrel meant specifically for sig suppressors iirc. Best bet seems to buy a ILWC barrel but thats another $300-400.

I have a PTR 9C with a YHM R9 and I absolutely love it, just a joy to shoot with subsonic ammo. Also have a Century AP5K, not as much fun. Just replaced the extractor spring to see if it solves the stove piping problem it has.

 

[DocAwe]

On one hand, I like the solution, on another I don't personally like the idea of not being able to fit a bayonet (though some ARs don't have the correct length for that anyway). Does it affect harmonics any?


Fair enough. Do they seem fragile or something?

The mount attaches to the front sight tower not the Bayonetta lug.
I don't think it will interfere at all but I don't have a bayonet to check it with.
IMO if your not using a free float tube barrel harmonics don't really come into play.

 

[WelperHelper99]

This is how Ruger used to do it with their older Police Carbine.

It's more or less like the telescoping bolt on an Uzi or MAC, allows for a shorter receiver and for a gun which is a bit more evenly balanced overall, may or may not allow for slightly milder felt recoil, as well as affecting how hard the bolt bottoms out. Compare to the old Marlin Camp carbines where a synthetic buffer pad was necessary to prevent the bolt from hammering on the rear of the receiver and splitting the wooden stocks.

Informative about the old model Ruger PC carbine. Always have liked it, has a old feel with the traditional stock while sporting polymer.

I like the idea of it, but I don't know how Henry implements it on their carbine.

While on the subject, I feel that the Henry 9mm would look quite a lot nicer with a magwell for taking PPS-43 magazines, don't you? A plastic pistol magazine jutting out the bottom of this kind of gun looks a little unfitting.

I think a curved magazine would look pretty good, but even then, I think the straight mag is decent enough. I'm still surprised Henry Eben came out with a PCC. I'll have to check prices tbh.

 

[Club Sandwich]

How did they even mount flash lights on the old school style handguards before quadrails became a thing.

depends on how far back you want to go. i've had success with a modified shotgun barrel/magazine tube clamp secured with screws that took a 1" flashlight tube on the other side, looked like this but had a wing nut instead of a sling stud and i cut some bicycle tubing to fit around the barrel and flashlight for grip:

the other one was more square and used four screws and was provided with the flashlights themselves when we received them by surefire, but they were made by either Weaver or i think Bushnell. another option was one i used during the very early GWOT was a "gangster grip" that had a modified pistol grip on it, some scope rings and rubber, a backing plate and screws/nuts to secure it to the inside of the lower handguard. by that point the spooks were rocking Swan sleeves and SIR systems, so like a year later i got one of those (and still got it somewhere) after a year or so. eventually the A4s were hitting the USMC and the army everywhere as the M4 and M5 RIS and RAS depending on which outfit you were with.

guys with SMGs or used "hammer head" 1913 or weaver rails often used modified scope rings. again, we standardized on 1" or 1.25" flashlight bodies so they would fit with minimal fuss. in police service you would sometimes see amount that used a dedicated molded piece (surefire made one, some dudes in the military would buy them from the BX, there was one from wilcox that i used for a bit but it was too bulky and D cells were impossible to get unless you were air force it felt like...).

edit: i found it. it was distributed by surefire and made by weaver (although i distinctly remember it having to use a wrench to secure it, not a knurled knob). you can find it on amazong as "weaver flashlight mount". used this in 03-04 thereabouts. gangster grip was a bit later in 05, then Swan came out with a quick detachable lever vertical grip that i really liked and i stuck with that until i eventually was using a stubby tango down vertical grip until i got out of that billet and moved into other things. this was used with a "laser products super xenon" flashlight and then a surefire 660 later on with the tail pressure switch taped to the VFG.

 

[Pocket Dragoon]

Speaking of leverguns....

I was surprised that I'd never heard of 50-100 WCF before finding this guy's channel; one of those rifles is easily near the top of my dreamguns list, if I could do my own reloading.

 

[Falcos_Commisar]

Time for Balls' Dirty Secrets. I almost never use "Gun" oil. If something needs cleaned or oiled, it'll get Hoppe's 9 Bore Solvent, and then a nice liberal application of 3-In-1 oil. I've never had issues with 3-In-1. It does amazing as far as lubrication, and doesn't seem to attract powder and debris the same way that "Gun" specific oils seem to. Also doesn't dry nearly as quick, I like to run my guns wet. I use the shit for everything. Even hydromodded a Casio World Timer in a steel and sapphire case with it.

All I use anymore is Ballistol, Hoppe's bore cleaner, and the Slip 2000 oil, grease and EWP.

Oh and Cherry Balmz for my ARs/bolt guns when I need some other grease.

The M1 Garand gets the Mobile 1 grease

That's IT.

You are right on the money. Any gun I take out trekking or hunting gets a nice rubdown with some beeswax on the wood and trigger (keeps rain off it, and makes it really tacky if your fingers start getting cold or slippery) from the aunt's keepery, and then some nice rendered tallow the wife makes on any of the exposed metal parts. Haven't had any issues with water retention causing fouling or rust. And if you render it right, you have no smell to worry about something picking up. Give it a wipe down and a clean when you get home.
That being said, I do take my guns out for an oiling and cleaning every week, regardless of whether they have been shot or not. Mrs. Balls and I make a night of it, usually do up all our boots and leathers the same night too. It's therapeutic.

Ohh beeswax and wood is a lovely combination.

As for your boots, I'd suggest only oiling or greasing them once a month max as boots can get over-saturated and it can impact leather lifespan.

Oiling and cleaning guns weekly is outstanding..... I clean them after shooting them into the anti rust sock and bag they go.

 

[Seafarer]

I came across an interesting series on YouTube about the usage of certain models of firearms by criminals:

(There are more episodes in this series, but I’m just posting the first three as examples)

Much of the videos are just a history lesson on the particular firearm, but there is also discussion about the forensic signature of the firearms and his personal experience in seeing their usage in crime (as OP used to work at the Milwaukee PD).

I find it funny that S&W’s Sigma series was such a Glock clone that it actually caused problems for forensics in identifying if it was a Glock or a Sigma that was the weapon used.

 

[Dean Pentel]

What’s everyone’s thoughts on using a full synthetic motor oil in place of a gun oil? I realized I’m low, so I bought some Hoppes today but had me thinking of the fudds always saying to just use motor oil.

Did a good bit of autistic googling earlier and I’ve seen people recommend doing a 2:1 mix of motor oil and ATF. I’ve seen people use straight up mineral oil. And a few people using straight up used cooking oil.

For a long, long time I was content to use XF-7 grease since a buddy had created it and it proved effective not only at lubrication but also at corrosion resistance. I still use it on all my pistols, revolvers, and shotguns. Once I started firing suppressed ARs much more often I found that XF-7 would dry up rather quickly. It may still provide lubrication without the overt appearance of still being in place but I still looked at alternatives. Plus I'm coming up on the last of my original formula XF-7 so I'll need a replacement soon.

This video provided one that I've tested enough to confirm works as "advertised." It's what I use for all my AR platform rifles now. Quite inexpensive for the quantities one can make if so inclined.

Also, an inexpensive general-purpose cleaning solution I use for firearms is 28 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil mixed with 4 ounces of Sweet's 7.62 Solvent. When mixed you'll get a pink solution that looks quite similar to Pepto Bismol. You'll have to shake it to mix it prior to use since the Sweet's will fall out of solution when it sits. Works very well for normal cleaning and you get a shit ton of it for not much money. If you need something more specialized, like significant copper fouling, Bore Tech is good stuff but not cheap.

It's not just an automatic .458, but one which locks open and spits the empty clip out, so that you can then load in another eight whole rounds of .458 in one go.

Goddamn. I bet it's fun to fire a clip or two through this.

 

[Alcoholism]

Anyone have any thoughts on an FN SCAR vs SIG MCX?

 

[Thornforg]

Anyone have any thoughts on an FN SCAR vs SIG MCX?

My thoughts: Get a PSA JAKL instead.

 

[WelperHelper99]

Anyone have any thoughts on an FN SCAR vs SIG MCX?

The SCAR is one of the coolest 308's ever made. And there's a DMR variant in 6.5 Creedmoor. Mega based.

I'll take the SCAR.

 

[Dean Pentel]

The SCAR is one of the coolest 308's ever made. And there's a DMR variant in 6.5 Creedmoor. Mega based.
View attachment 5739810
I'll take the SCAR.

No, stalker, it isn't. And no, child, you won't. I'm sorry you're too stupid to realize the PWS UXR is superior.

Enjoy wildly overpriced and substandard .308s.

 

[Thornforg]

.308 JAKL is coming out soon anyways, likely followed by a 6.5, and PSA doesn't void your warranty when you suppress your guns.

As someone who owns both a 16 and 17, get the JAKL and buy ammo or a can or an optic with the savings.

 

[Romulus augustulus]

Speaking of leverguns....
https://youtube.com/watch?v=upd_Y41romI
I was surprised that I'd never heard of 50-100 WCF before finding this guy's channel; one of those rifles is easily near the top of my dreamguns list, if I could do my own reloading.

the biggest US .50 was the .50-140 sharps. 140 grains of black powder pushing a 700 grain bullet at ~1500 FPS. its interchanble with .50 black powder express which turned into .500 nitro express. the .50-140 could easily kill an elephant.

 

[WelperHelper99]

No, stalker, it isn't. And no, child, you won't. I'm sorry you're too stupid to realize the PWS UXR is superior.

Enjoy wildly overpriced and substandard .308s.

I will enjoy the SCAR, the vidya game gun of my childhood, and I will like it.

Real talk, I find it sweet 6.5 Creedmoor got a true battle rifle to play around in. When I get another bolt action, it'll probably be in 6.5.

Edit: What are your guys thoughts on 300 Winchester Magnum?

It's what my bolt action, my first gun, is in. Kicks hard, but hits like a truck. Got it to be able to hunt anything in Utah. Also close in accuracy to 6.5 Creedmoor just because of sheer power. Thoughts?

 

[Badungus Kabungus]

It's what my bolt action, my first gun, is in. Kicks hard, but hits like a truck. Got it to be able to hunt anything in Utah. Also close in accuracy to 6.5 Creedmoor just because of sheer power. Thoughts?

Compared to 308 or 270 it recoils harder and costs more to shoot. If you don't have brown bears in Utah, stick with 270. It can take a moose down with no problems as long as you have good shot placement.

 

[WelperHelper99]

Compared to 308 or 270 it recoils harder and costs more to shoot. If you don't have brown bears in Utah, stick with 270. It can take a moose down with no problems as long as you have good shot placement.

Well I already have the 300 lol. Trust me I know the cost of .300 win mag. That's why you stock up when possible.

Edit: but yes going back, probably would have picked up a 30-06 or 270 on cost. But as it stands, I'm happy with the sheer power I have.

 

[Badungus Kabungus]

Well I already have the 300 lol. Trust me I know the cost of .300 win mag. That's why you stock up when possible.

Edit: but yes going back, probably would have picked up a 30-06 or 270 on cost. But as it stands, I'm happy with the sheer power I have.

In that case may be worth it to look into reloading to offset costs. Can also make some lower power rounds for medium-ish game that doesn't need a full power 300WM round.

At least save all your brass from your factory ammo for now until you get into reloading. Watch out for brass goblins at the range.

 

[WelperHelper99]

In that case may be worth it to look into reloading. At least save all your brass from your factory ammo for now until you get into reloading. Watch out for brass goblins at the range.

Oh trust me, I've been hoarding brass ever since I got it. Never have lost a case. Once I have a reloading set up, things will get cheap.