Mega Rad Gun Thread

Romulus augustulus said:
It's still there however. S&W is slowly deleting them. forced by California ironically, CA law requires higher levels of drop safety. S&W chose to incorporate a new drop safety mechanism using the space previously occupied by the internal lock. Colt cut a small shelf on the hammer to meet the reqs.

If you could jew him down a hundred or two i'd say go for it if you are able to inspect it first hand for defects.
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I’ve never experienced or witnessed first hand a malfunction from the hole as obnoxious as it is. Only credible testimonies seems to be from the scandium and titanium cylinder models. My 340PD doesn’t include the hole regardless.

Are you referring to any specific defects to look out for?
 
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Taser Confetti said:
I’ve never experienced or witnessed first hand a malfunction from the hole as obnoxious as it is. Only credible testimonies seems to be from the scandium and titanium cylinder models. My 340PD doesn’t include the hole regardless.

Are you referring to any specific defects to look out for?
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misaligned barrel (turned to far right or left, not aligned with the frame) timing issues, too heavy or too light trigger (indicates something wrong in the action), scratches, barrel condition, sight condition etc.

S&W quality has suffered these last 20 years. they can still make a good gun, but buying sight unseen is a risk factor.
 
Romulus augustulus said:
misaligned barrel (turned to far right or left, not aligned with the frame) timing issues, too heavy or too light trigger (indicates something wrong in the action), scratches, barrel condition, sight condition etc.

S&W quality has suffered these last 20 years. they can still make a good gun, but buying sight unseen is a risk factor.
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Good to know. My FFL guy is also a gunsmith. I’ll ask him to critique it before I sign the paperwork.
 
@AGPinochet I did a shitty baffle design and uploaded it to PCBway and 16 of them comes to $590 before shipping or anything so that's $37 a piece for titanium baffles base price. I'd get cheaper if you got a shit ton but I think you'd have a hard time cracking $20 TI CNC baffles. What'll be the next move is to machine the first baffle or two out of something good like Inconel or better and then stamp the rest outta something like 17-4 or 4140. Stamping costs more but if these places aren't confident enough in the sales numbers of their stuff to go all in that says something. After all, it's like folding paper really
 
POWER IN MISERY said:
my "oh shit it's an actual thing" moment was when my former military uncle in law saw my old dissipator AR and tried to argue that it was an SBR
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he's correct tho,. The dissipator barrel was meant to get the 20' rifle length gas system down into the 16' profile. They literally just chopped it down from a 20' barrel. So in the actual meaning of the word "short barreled rifle" yeah it is one. As in SBR in retarded legal term no.
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Most of everything you see now are mock dissipators. The AR platform is designed to work with a 20 bbl and everything else is tranny shit. Stop circumcising Eugene Stoner's greatest gift to mankind.
 
888Flux said:
what has similar velocity?
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Velocity isn’t the only factor. 20” barrel only increases the range of the fragmentation threshold of 55 grain ammo about 40 yards when compared to a 14.5”.

If you are running something like 77gr OTM the extra velocity isn’t as important.

If all you care about is maximizing terminal performance at distance, then the extra velocity is helpful, but it’s a niche use case that doesn’t apply to everyone.
 
888Flux said:
he's correct tho,. The dissipator barrel was meant to get the 20' rifle length gas system down into the 16' profile. They literally just chopped it down from a 20' barrel. So in the actual meaning of the word "short barreled rifle" yeah it is one. As in SBR in retarded legal term no.
View attachment 8629133

Most of everything you see now are mock dissipators. The AR platform is designed to work with a 20 bbl and everything else is tranny shit. Stop circumcising Eugene Stoner's greatest gift to mankind.
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Dissys are sex and you're actually wrong to not like them.
Eugene Stoner told me this in a dream.

So I'm ONE part away from finishing my 300 build. I'm not AGAINST spending a few dollary doos but it's a back pack beater build, so less is more in cost.

I have a h3 buffer. I'm thinking whats the best BCG? I know I want a lighter one for cycle, gas and recoil but I mean it's PSA/parts/beater. Will it really be worth spending some extra cash? I thankfully can afford it and don't mind you can get some cheap ones for like 50 but lighter look like 120+. I think recoil alone makes spending worth more.

But brands ideas for a 7" 300 KANYE (blackout/blacked)BCG?

I probably asked before but A: I'm retarded, B: I'm just not around too much sadly.
 
now that the winter has broken, it's high time I got back on my favorite exercises.

Hunting on my mountain: even a quick squirrel hunt close to home will have an elevation increase of some 300 foot. If i wish to chase rabbit in the top fields and bald knobs I must climb 1,000 feet.

I also enjoy running and shooting. Start at 10 yards from steel, shoot 1/3 of magazine or cylinder, retire to 20 yards and fire another 1/3rd. retire to 40 yards and fire the remaining 1/3rd. I'm not "training" for anything in particular, but it is enjoyable cardio. And that's key for me. I cannot force myself to exercise in some dim gymnasium or walking track. it has to be engaging mentally enough for me to ignore the rest.

I expended 150 rounds of 9mm w/ my P85 doing the running drill this evening. also incorporated shooting from the kneeling position at the 40 yard line. that's something I've rarely done. I tried doing it with my Ruger MkIV but the extractor decided to die today after about 1500 rounds of service so I guess it's time to drag the gun through the Volquartsen catalog.
 
Bassomatic said:
Dissys are sex and you're actually wrong to not like them.
Eugene Stoner told me this in a dream.

So I'm ONE part away from finishing my 300 build. I'm not AGAINST spending a few dollary doos but it's a back pack beater build, so less is more in cost.

I have a h3 buffer. I'm thinking whats the best BCG? I know I want a lighter one for cycle, gas and recoil but I mean it's PSA/parts/beater. Will it really be worth spending some extra cash? I thankfully can afford it and don't mind you can get some cheap ones for like 50 but lighter look like 120+. I think recoil alone makes spending worth more.

But brands ideas for a 7" 300 KANYE (blackout/blacked)BCG?

I probably asked before but A: I'm retarded, B: I'm just not around too much sadly.
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Usually I try to stick with a standard profile BCG and tune with different buffer weights if needed. Buffers are cheap and you can remove weight if needed by pushing out a roll pin.

I haven't used them personally (though I did just order one to have as a spare), but this doesn't seem like a bad deal right now - HPT/MPI with a 9310 bolt, nitrided for easy cleaning and less than a bill shipped.
 
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Lima6 is doing a drop on Tuesday, I want to write a longer writeup, but in short, if you want one, and don't plan on doing anything too silly, you will probably save time and money just buying the full upper (+ buffer kit). With the midlength gas, it (finally) runs, I have a video I need to remove myself from to post but I have been completely satisficed with my purchase. Will be buying the 13.5" Red Right Hand handguard when out.

LMK if you have questions. Even though I am retarded, Lima6 was very kind when I emailed asking questions.

I only had very minor issues during the build that were easily resolved (most notably a hole was not threaded out properly, easy fix)
It would have been much easier to just buy one of their barrels, they are very affordably priced (if you buy, I would just pick up the barrel/buffer kit/links/lube from their site when you get it, it's pretty much as cheap as you can find) and with how long re drilling a barrel takes you wont save much money.
 
xf7ub2LMGZj%yV said:
questions
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Any specific SS you are using? I am considering a Disruptor FRT for mine but on the fence.
What do you consider the hardest thing with the DIY build?

Mine is hopefully shipping this week or next, I am going to throw a shitty ATN on it and see how that goes. Need to decide on bipod and other junk
 
xf7ub2LMGZj%yV said:
View attachment 8644689View attachment 8644690

Lima6 is doing a drop on Tuesday, I want to write a longer writeup, but in short, if you want one, and don't plan on doing anything too silly, you will probably save time and money just buying the full upper (+ buffer kit). With the midlength gas, it (finally) runs, I have a video I need to remove myself from to post but I have been completely satisficed with my purchase. Will be buying the 13.5" Red Right Hand handguard when out.

LMK if you have questions. Even though I am retarded, Lima6 was very kind when I emailed asking questions.

I only had very minor issues during the build that were easily resolved (most notably a hole was not threaded out properly, easy fix)
It would have been much easier to just buy one of their barrels, they are very affordably priced (if you buy, I would just pick up the barrel/buffer kit/links/lube from their site when you get it, it's pretty much as cheap as you can find) and with how long re drilling a barrel takes you wont save much money.
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does it have quick change barrels?
in 1977 a new Purdey best sidelock could be had for $3,000. today you'd be lucky to get out of Audley House for less than $80,000. Veblen goods and all that but Jesus!
 
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Taser Confetti said:
Good to know. My FFL guy is also a gunsmith
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Timing check is pretty easy to do yourseld.
Pull the hammer back for single action, with your other thumb putting light pressure on the cylinder to induce drag. The cylinder should lock up right as the hammer cocks fully.

Unrelated, but I have a question for the rest of the thread: If someone builds a Galil, but they're not Jewish, does that actually make that particular gun a Goylil?
 
Among Us Gaming said:
Timing check is pretty easy to do yourseld.
Pull the hammer back for single action, with your other thumb putting light pressure on the cylinder to induce drag. The cylinder should lock up right as the hammer cocks fully.

Unrelated, but I have a question for the rest of the thread: If someone builds a Galil, but they're not Jewish, does that actually make that particular gun a Goylil?
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Quit trying to fool god kike!
 
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