'No Stupid Questions' (NSQ) Internet & Technology Edition

Here's a simpler question than my previous one. If the estimated power draw on you tower is 364 watts, would a 550 watt 80+ gold power supply be sufficient?
 
I would think so, but I'd always go for the best PSU you can afford, for efficiency's sake, if nothing else.
I forget who mentioned it, but somewhere in one of the PC building threads here, someone pointed out that all those "Bronze/Silver/Gold" certifications are calculated based on maximum power draw, and only the Titanium level actually requires efficiency while idling. If you leave your computer on all the time and you're not mining bitcoins 24/7, you might want to save a few spotted owls by shelling out for Titanium.
 
Here's a simpler question than my previous one. If the estimated power draw on you tower is 364 watts, would a 550 watt 80+ gold power supply be sufficient?
Yes. Most modern PSUs can put out the full wattage on the 12V rail. Also worth it to watch/read this:


A 10900k+2080ti couldnt break 600 watt.
I forget who mentioned it, but somewhere in one of the PC building threads here, someone pointed out that all those "Bronze/Silver/Gold" certifications are calculated based on maximum power draw, and only the Titanium level actually requires efficiency while idling. If you leave your computer on all the time and you're not mining bitcoins 24/7, you might want to save a few spotted owls by shelling out for Titanium.
That is incorrect. Ever since 80+ bronze the PSU must keep above a certain percentage of efficiency at all times, with more recent forms of 80+ requiring over 90% efficiency at all times.

Peak efficiency is achieved typically at 60-70% usage, and begins to drop off after this.

80 plus.PNG
EDIT: so clearly I'm an idiot and cant read graphs, technically yes only titanium requires 90% at idle, but at 10% load you are talking about a 1-2 watt difference, you'd make a much bigger difference physically unplugging the PC when not in use VS going titanium over gold.
 
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What's the deal with all those cheap windows 10 keys on ebay? Are they fraudulent/stolen?
 
What's the deal with all those cheap windows 10 keys on ebay? Are they fraudulent/stolen?
My understanding is Microsoft issues mass keys to universities and OEMs for just a couple of bucks. People get thier hands on these keys and sell them on eBay. Microsoft doesn't give a shit anymore because they make all their money from subscriptions, analytics and cloud services, indeed, even if you don't register windows it still works, it just resets your background and puts a watermark on the bottom corner of the screen. I've bought them at least a half dozen times at home and at work and have never experienced a hiccup. Just don't download Windows from the link they send you. Only ever download it from Microsoft.
 
What's the deal with all those cheap windows 10 keys on ebay? Are they fraudulent/stolen?
Everything Never Scored said is right, but here's the why behind the what. It's the computing equivalent of "the first hit's free". Offer keys in bulk at wholesale prices to institutions to make a little money now and inculcate the OS on your captive users, then when they're dependent on your OS to get anything done charge them the premium price for an individual license. The best example of this in action is Apple, which offers significant discounts and flexible prices to students and schools to get their foot in the door and can then charge their scalper prices once those students graduate and only know the Apple™ computing paradigm.
 
If it is not some business-computer that you need to give back... Can't you just download from internet an original ISO of Windows 10 and activate it with a KMS activator?
You should only be worried that is an original iso and you will be ok, for that you need to search and verify the SHA-1 of the file and the window's image, torrent don't always means virus, is just people that host something and share it.
The activating part is another world, if you're too worried or you can't, you can always stay with the annoying "activate windows" thing at the bottom right and keep using the computer as it is.
If you use a KMS activator you should be careful or ask someone that used one before, as some of them are virus, windows always detect kms activators as virus, but some of them can be the real deal and do nothing bad to your computer, that's why, always check that it comes from a trustable source (like a forum or a place with a big amount of people) and never download KMSpico.

Like someone said before me, you can buy an 10$ license that will work in your computer always, and only if you don't change your motherboard, there may be other components that will make the licence useless like a CPU maybe, but I'm not sure, you should research a little into that, but if you need the license, a 10$ OEM one is going to get you out of the rush.

The ISOs are available on MSDN, just use a program/front end to like Windows ISO Downloader from Heidoc.net, plug in the specific details of what you want/need and it downloads it from MSDN. Very easy, no need for torrents.

MS have become very lenient on transferring licenses for Windows. It being tightly tied to a motherboard isn't much of an issue now and even back then it was more of a hassle than a problem. If they required you to explain why you are transferring the windows license just say that the motherboard broke and it was still under warranty so you sent it in but they don't make/stock that model anymore aaaaaand it's technically still the same computer.

Now Microsoft doesn't give a shit it seems like.
 
I'm having an issue with my monitor. My monitor has 2 modes,4k 60htz and 1440p 144htz. The issue I'm experiencing is that 144htz is not as smooth as it should be. I confirmed by suspicion when I saw my friends 144htz monitor and noticed that it was much smoother than mine. Can anyone help me? And before anyone asks I have confirmed that my monitor is set to 144htz in both the Nvidia control panel and windows display manager and I'm using a display port cable.
 
44htz is not as smooth as it should be.
Possibly the game you re playing is FPS locked to 60fps. Look in the settings and see what options you have.

I find this with a lot of games - the default setting is 60fps for some reason instead of just finding out what your monitor supports.

Some older games don't support this in the settings menu but you can sometimes edit config files or add registry edits to set this. However, sometimes the frame rate is tied to physics calculations and gameplay etc so your results might vary.
 
I'm having an issue with my monitor. My monitor has 2 modes,4k 60htz and 1440p 144htz. The issue I'm experiencing is that 144htz is not as smooth as it should be. I confirmed by suspicion when I saw my friends 144htz monitor and noticed that it was much smoother than mine. Can anyone help me? And before anyone asks I have confirmed that my monitor is set to 144htz in both the Nvidia control panel and windows display manager and I'm using a display port cable.

Do you have FreeSync or GSync and what does your friend have?
 
Do you have FreeSync or GSync and what does your friend have?
We both have freeSync. I tried it 144htz with both freeSync on and off and saw no difference. I'm honestly wondering if his monitor has a really good implementation of motion blur or my eyes are just fucked up
 
The TMI smiley. I'm not a total retard so have been able to piece together context clues and have a vague idea for why its used, but I'd just like to clarify. Is the TMI smiley to be used when someone posts an irrelevant comment that doesn't contribute to the thread and is otherwise pointless, or is it used as a "nudge nudge", maybe edit/delete your comment as it's enough information that someone motivated enough may be able to single it out when attempting to dox you?
 
The TMI smiley. I'm not a total retard so have been able to piece together context clues and have a vague idea for why its used, but I'd just like to clarify. Is the TMI smiley to be used when someone posts an irrelevant comment that doesn't contribute to the thread and is otherwise pointless, or is it used as a "nudge nudge", maybe edit/delete your comment as it's enough information that someone motivated enough may be able to single it out when attempting to dox you?
The latter. It's used for posts in which the author "powerlevels," or shares more personal information than may be prudent.
 
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The latter. It's used for posts in which the author "powerlevels," or shares more personal information than may be prudent.
Good looking out, thanks. While I'm here, what about for Islamic content? In the Hunter Biden thread, evidence pointing towards a sexual relationship with his niece will regularly get hit with many of those Saudi smileys. From what I gather it's essentially just a "this post is all kinds of fucked up and idk where to begin" button, how off am I on that assumption?
 
Good looking out, thanks. While I'm here, what about for Islamic content? In the Hunter Biden thread, evidence pointing towards a sexual relationship with his niece will regularly get hit with many of those Saudi smileys. From what I gather it's essentially just a "this post is all kinds of fucked up and idk where to begin" button, how off am I on that assumption?
It means that the post, or more likely the content the post is discussing, is perverted or sexually deviant. Of course there's also the "Deviant" reaction, but it seems that one's more likely to be used if the post is intended to be interpreted as a joke, whereas "Islamic Content" is more for serious posts.
 
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Good looking out, thanks. While I'm here, what about for Islamic content? In the Hunter Biden thread, evidence pointing towards a sexual relationship with his niece will regularly get hit with many of those Saudi smileys. From what I gather it's essentially just a "this post is all kinds of fucked up and idk where to begin" button, how off am I on that assumption?
It means it's a good post.
 
We both have freeSync. I tried it 144htz with both freeSync on and off and saw no difference. I'm honestly wondering if his monitor has a really good implementation of motion blur or my eyes are just fucked up

Which exact brand and model of monitor do you have?
 
Here's a question I've been meaning to ask for a while.

After I built my PC, I had a bunch of miscellaneous shit left over, mostly tiny screws and attachments and whatnot. I kept them in 3 boxes because I wasn't sure what to do with them, but it's clogging up my space. I'm worried about needing those pieces later on and throwing them out seems wasteful to me, but I also don't know if I'd ever actually need them in case of an emergency. Should I just get rid of them or should I consolidate them to take up less space?
 
Here's a question I've been meaning to ask for a while.

After I built my PC, I had a bunch of miscellaneous shit left over, mostly tiny screws and attachments and whatnot. I kept them in 3 boxes because I wasn't sure what to do with them, but it's clogging up my space. I'm worried about needing those pieces later on and throwing them out seems wasteful to me, but I also don't know if I'd ever actually need them in case of an emergency. Should I just get rid of them or should I consolidate them to take up less space?
Be a tech enthusiast long enough and it's inevitable you end up with a box of odd cables, accessories, and doodads you have no use for now but you're holding on to because maybe, some day, just in case… The answer for everyone will vary on how much space they have, how often they have to move, and whatever Chandleresque packrat neuroses they may have. Personally I've found that the times that I've been really grateful that I've been hanging on to that DisplayPort to DVI adapter for seven years and three states has not outweighed my distaste at just paying $15 for a new one should I ever need it.
 
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