'No Stupid Questions' (NSQ) Internet & Technology Edition

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Only API stuff I did was querying an earthquake database with bash. Recommended search terms? Will the user block me, or twitter itself? What can I do to make the script seem more human, while harvesting as much data as possible?
GetOldTweets is a scraper, so you're impersonating a browser, so they'll throttle the IP. I recommended it because you'll find that the official API is so limited that it's not very useful for many use-cases, especially trying to get complete historical information on a user.

If you're like a big company I think you can get super API access but I don't know the process. The API situation on twitter is constantly changing, usually for the worse.
 
Well, Intel has a bunch of security issues in the CPU implementation, and new ones keep being discovered, so that's why I don't suggest buying from them.


Ryzen gen three had an RDRAND bug, but I'd suggest you do your own research.
And yet, despite all those bugs, the intel chips still perform well, and the vast majority require local access, but do not provide it. Those rare ones that do allow local admin rights are patched immediately. Ryzen will have these too, once its market-share grows large enough. Intel is still the best choice for gaming only, ESPECIALLY if you dont recommend third gen ryzen, as Jekthedumbass states the purpose of the rig is.


I want to buy a decent gaming rig. However, I literally don't know what any of the specs mean other than "expensive is better HURRRR". Can someone give me a quick rundown on what the numbers mean on processors and graphics cards? Specifically, how do I tell a good one from a bad one? I understand hard drive, and that solid state drives are faster (I think?), and I understand what "memory" means, that's what they call RAM now for some reason.

Basically, I used to know computers 20 years ago but I don't know what the hell I'm looking at. I'm looking for something to play games on, but I'm not 100% stuck on having the best settings on the newest games, I just want them to run smoothly. (my current computer is a 9 year old laptop which is literally being held together with tape)
What is your budget, and what resolution do you want to play at? Those are the two big determinations for a gaming only rig.

For a processor, the ryzen 3600 or i5 9600 are plenty for modern games. 8 cores are more future proof, but as always there is no telling when they will become mandatory, could be 10 years or 2. you can always buy a used one later and upgrade.

for RAM, you want 16GB minimum. I'd go with 32GB. Current games dont use more then 4-6GB at most, but the next generation consoles will have dramatically more RAM, and game usage will increase alongside. For intel, you want the fastest speed possible. For AMD, 3200MHz is all the faster you really need, after that latency timings make a much bigger difference, due to how AMD's architecture is built.

GPU depends on resolution. For 1080p a 2060 super or RX 5700 will be plenty, and will work for the forseeable future at medium/high settings. At 1440p, you'd want a 5700xt/2070 super. Also ypu'd want to step up a GPU grade if you want high refresh rate (so 2070 super/5700xt at 1080p144, 2080 super or higher for 1440p144) but that doesnt sound like what you are gunning for. If you are willing to go used, as I do, the vega 64 is a great choice at $200, and is easily found on ebay.

For storage, just go SSD. Doesnt matter what kind, even the worst SSDs are miles better for responsiveness then Hard drives are. Hard drives are really only useful for large media storage, and even then I prefer SSDs. I have had fantastic luck with crucial MX500s, and they can be found cheap on amazon.


As for building it, I encourage you to look at youtube videos and online guides. Building your own really is quite easy, PCpartpicker makes it easy to buy compatible parts. If you dont want to do that, there are several OEMs that you can buy from, like ibuypower, cyberpower, and falcon northwest, but keep in mind they will cost significantly more. There are also likely members of this forum that would guide you on building one (or if you dont mind giving out your actual address to someone like a moron, someone here would likely build you one for the right price).
 
like? just curious, didn't really follow stuff after I upgraded.
Ryzen 3000 has had multiple firmware updates to address clock rate and voltage issues. There are some boards that pump needless voltage in, creating heat issues with 3000 series chips. Max payne 1 is infamously incompatible with the chip, and AMD has no desire to fix it, it is unknown if other older obscure games will be incompatible.

Ryzen 3000 also has a borked RnG, which is reliant on mobo BIOS implementations to fix, and linux still struggles at times with ryzen.

they are good chips, just half bakes, as is unfortunately common with AMD's CPU designs. Especially after the solid 2000 series, the 3000s feel like a step back.
 
That's perfect, that's exactly the advice I needed. My monitor is 1080 so having a higher resolution would be wasted, and I'm trying to keep it below $2k.
 
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That's perfect, that's exactly the advice I needed. My monitor is 1080 so having a higher resolution would be wasted, and I'm trying to keep it below $2k.

Oof, you get a lot of shit if you're spending 2k. The build that @DNA_JACKED suggest is very sensible, hardware wise it is a system where you don't have to mess around with settings in games running at 1080p, put it on a high and everything except Unity walking simulators will run at 60fps, you might not have to bother with settings for the next couple of years. At 1080p.

I got curious and pressed buttons on pcpartspicker and this would be the outline of a system like that, costing $1100. The price can be brought down(go for a B450 motherboard, buy the RX 5700 that costs 30-40 bucks less, buy an even cheaper case) or it can go up(more ram, fancier case, water cooling, all the tacky RGB you can get your hands on).

16gb of RAM is a minimum now like DNA_JACKED said, not for games necessarily but when running tons of shit in Windows, even a single page in a web browser can eat up surprising amounts of memory.

computter1.JPG

computter2.JPG


5400rpm hard drive might upset some people, but that's mainly for storage and won't be the working space. Though some things from the SSD can and probably should be kicked over to the HDD with a file junction if the program won't let you set the location. Chrome started freaking out once due to someones crappy java code and did 400gb of re-writes to the web cache on my SSD in a day or two. Then the web cache got exiled to a mechanical drive.
 
Oof, you get a lot of shit if you're spending 2k. The build that @DNA_JACKED suggest is very sensible, hardware wise it is a system where you don't have to mess around with settings in games running at 1080p, put it on a high and everything except Unity walking simulators will run at 60fps, you might not have to bother with settings for the next couple of years. At 1080p.

I got curious and pressed buttons on pcpartspicker and this would be the outline of a system like that, costing $1100. The price can be brought down(go for a B450 motherboard, buy the RX 5700 that costs 30-40 bucks less, buy an even cheaper case) or it can go up(more ram, fancier case, water cooling, all the tacky RGB you can get your hands on).

16gb of RAM is a minimum now like DNA_JACKED said, not for games necessarily but when running tons of shit in Windows, even a single page in a web browser can eat up surprising amounts of memory.

View attachment 1073643
View attachment 1073644

5400rpm hard drive might upset some people, but that's mainly for storage and won't be the working space. Though some things from the SSD can and probably should be kicked over to the HDD with a file junction if the program won't let you set the location. Chrome started freaking out once due to someones crappy java code and did 400gb of re-writes to the web cache on my SSD in a day or two. Then the web cache got exiled to a mechanical drive.
I agree on everything there, except the HDD. Storing large games on a drive like that, with the size of modern textures, is asking for pop in issues, lag, and insane load times. modern games are bandwidth intensive, and with next gen consoles getting SSDs as standard, that issue is going ot become much more prevalent in the near future.

You can get a 2TB MX500 SSD from amazon for ~$200. I'd get one of those instead of the HDD, and swap out that RX 5700 for a used vega 64. Keeps the price about the same but provides not only a bit more power but infinitely better response times. The 970 evo can be had for the same price as the 860 evo, and offers faster read/write speeds as well as better IOPS performance. If the system is really only for gaming, the 2TB drive will easily be able to hold enough games at any one point for most users. My entire active library fits in a single 2TB drive, and I've got 40+ games installed right now with 800GB free.

You may also want to get yourself a better CPU cooler. The box one from AMD works, technically, but it will be loud and hot. You can get plenty of good tower CPU coolers for $50 that will be near silent and much cooler, some even use the standard AMD bracket so it takes all of 15 seconds to install it. I have one of these:

https://www.newegg.com/be-quiet-dark-rock-pro-4-bk022/p/13C-001F-00027?Description=be wuiet pro 4&cm_re=be_wuiet_pro_4-_-9SIA68V6YA3005-_-Product

Absolutely silent under full load, handles a ryzen 1700/i7 9700K OC without issue. You also have cheaper models like this:


Also, gotta get a windows license, unless you plan on sailing the high seas. TechPowerUp frequently offers coupons to get a windows 10 key for under $20. https://www.techpowerup.com/262433/welcome-2020-with-the-latest-genuine-software-from-goodoffer24
 
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I agree on everything there, except the HDD. Storing large games on a drive like that, with the size of modern textures, is asking for pop in issues, lag, and insane load times. modern games are bandwidth intensive, and with next gen consoles getting SSDs as standard, that issue is going ot become much more prevalent in the near future.

Yeah I meant it as storage for precious ISOs and uncompressed Anime Music Videos. Emulation and playing PS2/DC/GC/Wii games from a drive like that is more than fine, same with MAME. I think steam games can be archived to a different directory/drive and restored if you want to play GTA5 again but don't want to download 60gigs, again.

A mechanical drive is a good/cheap place to put all that crap you don't want to delete but don't really need.
 
Also, gotta get a windows license, unless you plan on sailing the high seas. TechPowerUp frequently offers coupons to get a windows 10 key for under $20. https://www.techpowerup.com/262433/welcome-2020-with-the-latest-genuine-software-from-goodoffer24
You just reminded me of one of the more annoying things I've come across after building my PC.

So I mainly used videos to figure out how to build my PC, stuff like Paul's Hardware, right? Paul in particular explained how to save a copy of Windows 10 onto your new rig with a flash drive, and I'm thinking that it's very convenient. What I didn't know and what they failed to mention was that you had to buy the license if you want it to be legit. So now I have this annoying watermark at the bottom of the screen. It's not bad during most modern games, but when I'm playing an older game at a much smaller resolution, the damn watermark doesn't scale so it takes up a good chunk of the screen.

Honestly it's not too bad, at worst it's a minor inconvenience and I can ignore it when I'm playing at full resolution, and it disappears entirely for some games like Doom 2016 and Wolfenstein: The New Order. At the same time I want to get that license at some point, which means I have to cough up $200.

I took a gander at that link and unfortunately I don't have a CD drive on my computer and the case doesn't have any space for it so I'm shit out of luck there. I think I'll just have to wait until I have the cash to get the license digitally.

I do have a question; is there any potential risk to not having a legit license? As far as I know, all it affects is the watermark and you can't change the startup background.
 
I agree on everything there, except the HDD. Storing large games on a drive like that, with the size of modern textures, is asking for pop in issues, lag, and insane load times. modern games are bandwidth intensive, and with next gen consoles getting SSDs as standard, that issue is going ot become much more prevalent in the near future.

You can get a 2TB MX500 SSD from amazon for ~$200. I'd get one of those instead of the HDD, and swap out that RX 5700 for a used vega 64. Keeps the price about the same but provides not only a bit more power but infinitely better response times. The 970 evo can be had for the same price as the 860 evo, and offers faster read/write speeds as well as better IOPS performance. If the system is really only for gaming, the 2TB drive will easily be able to hold enough games at any one point for most users. My entire active library fits in a single 2TB drive, and I've got 40+ games installed right now with 800GB free.

You may also want to get yourself a better CPU cooler. The box one from AMD works, technically, but it will be loud and hot. You can get plenty of good tower CPU coolers for $50 that will be near silent and much cooler, some even use the standard AMD bracket so it takes all of 15 seconds to install it. I have one of these:

https://www.newegg.com/be-quiet-dark-rock-pro-4-bk022/p/13C-001F-00027?Description=be wuiet pro 4&cm_re=be_wuiet_pro_4-_-9SIA68V6YA3005-_-Product

Absolutely silent under full load, handles a ryzen 1700/i7 9700K OC without issue. You also have cheaper models like this:


Also, gotta get a windows license, unless you plan on sailing the high seas. TechPowerUp frequently offers coupons to get a windows 10 key for under $20. https://www.techpowerup.com/262433/welcome-2020-with-the-latest-genuine-software-from-goodoffer24
Honestly, the 970 evo is overpriced. Get a inland premium or sabrent rocket instead for less. I have a 1tb 970, this was right before micro center cratered the price for the inland. My wife got the inland for $86, literally no difference worth noticing between it and my evo. I just paid the Samsung tax :(
 
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Let's say I want to build a CGI/animation workstation and gaming rig with at least 1 TB DDR4 RAM, 4 TB total HDD, a CPU with as many cores as possible (at least 16), and a top of the line GPU.

1. How cheap can I build this right now?

2. How long would I have to wait for it to be under $15,000?
 
Let's say I want to build a CGI/animation workstation and gaming rig with at least 1 TB DDR4 RAM, 4 TB total HDD, a CPU with as many cores as possible (at least 16), and a top of the line GPU.

1. How cheap can I build this right now?

2. How long would I have to wait for it to be under $15,000?

I'm not even sure if Windows can handle that much RAM, so you would have to use Linux, and if it's a good idea for it to be non-ECC, due to the sheer number of bits that could be flipped by a cosmic ray, for example.

It might just be better to swap to a fast NVMe SSD.
 
I would rice it with Gentoo or Arch.
 
You just reminded me of one of the more annoying things I've come across after building my PC.

So I mainly used videos to figure out how to build my PC, stuff like Paul's Hardware, right? Paul in particular explained how to save a copy of Windows 10 onto your new rig with a flash drive, and I'm thinking that it's very convenient. What I didn't know and what they failed to mention was that you had to buy the license if you want it to be legit. So now I have this annoying watermark at the bottom of the screen. It's not bad during most modern games, but when I'm playing an older game at a much smaller resolution, the damn watermark doesn't scale so it takes up a good chunk of the screen.

Honestly it's not too bad, at worst it's a minor inconvenience and I can ignore it when I'm playing at full resolution, and it disappears entirely for some games like Doom 2016 and Wolfenstein: The New Order. At the same time I want to get that license at some point, which means I have to cough up $200.

I took a gander at that link and unfortunately I don't have a CD drive on my computer and the case doesn't have any space for it so I'm shit out of luck there. I think I'll just have to wait until I have the cash to get the license digitally.

I do have a question; is there any potential risk to not having a legit license? As far as I know, all it affects is the watermark and you can't change the startup background.

You can buy a key for like $10 on ebay. They email it to you within 24 hours of auction end. The one I bought for my PC build still works fine three years later with no apparent ill effects. My understanding is Microsoft mass sells large companies and universities and stuff windows keys for a fraction of the price and some enterprising individuals nab a few and sell them to us plebs. I got Office that way too. Just watch out for scammers.

*Edit* I took a look at the link you quoted and they're basically the same as the ebay sellers I was referring to. I think the use of the phrase "CD Key" is throwing you off. You don't need to install Windows with a CD to use those. People just call them CD keys because they used to be printed on the jewel cases the Windows CDs came in. You buy the CD key that matches your version on Windows 10, right click on the windows/start icon and click "system". This will bring up a window that tells you how much ram and shit you have. About halfway down there's a heading called "Windows Specifications". You can put in the key you bought there.
 
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Let's just assume I have a 146GB zip file, that will be nearly a TB when unarchived. Is there any way to browse or even better mount it as a virtual file system? Linux or MacOS answers only please... (It's a MAME set, and want to just get parent roms and working, and fuck the rest off).
 
Well, Intel has a bunch of security issues in the CPU implementation, and new ones keep being discovered, so that's why I don't suggest buying from them.

Ryzen gen three had an RDRAND bug, but I'd suggest you do your own research.

intel also abused the fuck out of their market position which fucked all of us for almost a decade with higher prices alone.

Ryzen 3000 has had multiple firmware updates to address clock rate and voltage issues. There are some boards that pump needless voltage in, creating heat issues with 3000 series chips. Max payne 1 is infamously incompatible with the chip, and AMD has no desire to fix it, it is unknown if other older obscure games will be incompatible.

Ryzen 3000 also has a borked RnG, which is reliant on mobo BIOS implementations to fix, and linux still struggles at times with ryzen.

they are good chips, just half bakes, as is unfortunately common with AMD's CPU designs. Especially after the solid 2000 series, the 3000s feel like a step back.

yeah, that's why I went with a 2000 once they were sold for cheap to make room for the 3000. rather not spend my time on early adopter issues anymore and it was released for a while so possible issue were known (ram compatibility still is pain in the ass tho, apparently 3000 is a vast improvement in that regard). last thing I remember were claims 3000 not hitting the specified boost numbers which sounded more like tech-tuber clickbait.

as for the issue with max payne, that's on the game, not the CPU. explanation and fix here:
 
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You just reminded me of one of the more annoying things I've come across after building my PC.

So I mainly used videos to figure out how to build my PC, stuff like Paul's Hardware, right? Paul in particular explained how to save a copy of Windows 10 onto your new rig with a flash drive, and I'm thinking that it's very convenient. What I didn't know and what they failed to mention was that you had to buy the license if you want it to be legit. So now I have this annoying watermark at the bottom of the screen. It's not bad during most modern games, but when I'm playing an older game at a much smaller resolution, the damn watermark doesn't scale so it takes up a good chunk of the screen.

Honestly it's not too bad, at worst it's a minor inconvenience and I can ignore it when I'm playing at full resolution, and it disappears entirely for some games like Doom 2016 and Wolfenstein: The New Order. At the same time I want to get that license at some point, which means I have to cough up $200.

I took a gander at that link and unfortunately I don't have a CD drive on my computer and the case doesn't have any space for it so I'm shit out of luck there. I think I'll just have to wait until I have the cash to get the license digitally.

I do have a question; is there any potential risk to not having a legit license? As far as I know, all it affects is the watermark and you can't change the startup background.
You dont actually NEED a CD drive. The "CD KEY" is a product key. The only difference between a product key and a digital key is that the product key can be moved to new devices, while a digital key is limited to the first device it is activated on, and is typically only used on OEM systems. The "CD KEY" has no way of telling if you used a physical disk or a USB ISO to install windows.


Let's say I want to build a CGI/animation workstation and gaming rig with at least 1 TB DDR4 RAM, 4 TB total HDD, a CPU with as many cores as possible (at least 16), and a top of the line GPU.

1. How cheap can I build this right now?

2. How long would I have to wait for it to be under $15,000?
I'm not even sure if Windows can handle that much RAM, so you would have to use Linux, and if it's a good idea for it to be non-ECC, due to the sheer number of bits that could be flipped by a cosmic ray, for example.

It might just be better to swap to a fast NVMe SSD.
Windows 10 64 bit can support up to 2TB of RAM, except on home which is limited to 128GB. Your bigger issue is going to be system board support. Threadripper boards typically max out at 256GB. The lenovo P920 can be configured with up to 16x32GB DIMMs, for 512GB, although apparently 64 and 128GB DIMMs are coming soon. The HP Z8 supports up to 3TB, while the dell precision tops out at 384GB.

Price is another matter entirely. HP will charge you $31K ! for the 1TB memory upgrade, and that requires dual processors of a certain level on their own, which adds additional cost. Lenovo cant configure that much yet. Ironically, apple's mac pro looks like a steal, only demanding $25K for the 1.5TB upgrade.

For under $15k, you're going to be waiting for a long time.
 
Let's just assume I have a 146GB zip file, that will be nearly a TB when unarchived. Is there any way to browse or even better mount it as a virtual file system? Linux or MacOS answers only please... (It's a MAME set, and want to just get parent roms and working, and fuck the rest off).

You can try mounting it as a virtual file system, on Gnome, you can open a zip file with "Archive Mounter", I'm not sure what that does internally though.

Just look up "Linux mount archive".
 
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