- Joined
- Aug 21, 2019
If it's just for shit posting, proton VPN has a free tier. If you're doing hardcore fedposting, use TOR.
For piracy/getting around geoblocks, I'm not sure.
'No Stupid Questions' (NSQ) Internet & Technology Edition
- Thread starter Arm Pit Cream
- Start date
For piracy/getting around geoblocks, I'm not sure.
- Joined
- May 3, 2022
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www.privacytools.io
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- May 3, 2022
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2016
I'm having some annoying buzzing / static on my headphones lately that completely disappears when I put my finger on any USB port of my case. What do I need to do to fix this shit?
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2019
Sounds like a grounding issue. Search Ali Express for "Ground loop isolator". They're like $1 on there.
*Edit* You're looking for something like this:
Morning Alarm
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2024
Sounds like he may be using a USB headset. Is it a case USB, a USB connection on the mobo I/O plate, or 3.5mm? Can you try switching to the I/Os on the mobo and the case?
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2023
I don't know if this solution exists.
A friend's car is being targeted by robbers. Is there something that records the id of Bluetooth or WiFi from phones as they go past. We want to be able to see if one of the gang of people at night has been past without a mask in the daytime.
A friend's car is being targeted by robbers. Is there something that records the id of Bluetooth or WiFi from phones as they go past. We want to be able to see if one of the gang of people at night has been past without a mask in the daytime.
Battlefield42
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2023
It would be funny if he finds a middleman in his keyboard or something. Since he fucked off they can't connect to it anymore and not keylog.
- Joined
- May 3, 2022
yeah no, just install a 24/7 camera to see who walks past your car or just use a very noisy mechanism so the gangs doesnt fuck with your car and shieeeeet. the fun alternative would be to place a gps tracker with a bomb like gta 4, so you take them and their clubhouse out.
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2023
It is possible. Big box stores used MAC address logging to track shoppers' movements around their stores. Apple and I think Google as well have implemented MAC address randomization in their phones to thwart this, supposedly. This may limit your ability to positively identify repeated sightings of the same nigger-associated Bluetooth or WiFi device.
Bluetooth devices (other than phones) might transmit identifying information, or they might not, I'm not really sure. However, a lot of Bluetooth devices are poorly designed and will absolutely spray the airwaves with their information regardless of mode of operation. Niggers love cheap shit, especially Bluetooth speakers and Bluetooth-enabled car stereos. You might get lucky.
In any event you'd need a device located close enough to pick up Bluetooth (or WiFi) signals. It can be any computer with the appropriate radios and preferably running Linux. A Raspberry Pi or similar would do.
It goes without saying that if you have a nigger problem, you NEED video surveillance.
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2024
I would have dropped this question in GPU & CPU thread but since I'm computer retarded, this seemed like the better choice. What are some good guides or sources for learning how to put together your own desktop and relevant knowledge?
My current desktop is over a decade old and it's only getting slower. When it was originally built, someone else picked the parts and helped put it together and I luckily never had to replace anything in it. I would like to build one on my own this time and make it a learning experience. There's no shortage of how-tos and guides out there, but if anyone knows some which helped them personally or are more comprehensive than others, I'd appreciate a recommendation.
My current desktop is over a decade old and it's only getting slower. When it was originally built, someone else picked the parts and helped put it together and I luckily never had to replace anything in it. I would like to build one on my own this time and make it a learning experience. There's no shortage of how-tos and guides out there, but if anyone knows some which helped them personally or are more comprehensive than others, I'd appreciate a recommendation.
- Joined
- May 3, 2022
well the only knowledge i can share is, the more core and threads a CPU has, the better, but unless you're working professionally, there's no need for a i9 and above.
haven't build a pc together because my motivation got killed when i tried to put a cheap AMD CPU inside my spare pc, it got broken pins afterwards, but maybe this website can help you out:
also make sure no parts are bottlenecking anything and your pc has enough power from the supply.
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2024
Thanks for the input! Any knowledge is good since I don't know much. I'm not looking for anything too fancy in a desktop. As long as it can handle painting and vector graphic software at a hobbyist level
- Joined
- May 3, 2022
if you're able to read manuals and your hands dont suffer from parkinson to build the pc, you can use https://pcpartpicker.com/ to click your stuff together.
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2021
What switches are recommended for the G502 Lightspeed? Left clicking now results in double clicking when clicking once and the G7 switch has shat itself to the point that I cant click it to decrease the DPI.
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2014
- Joined
- May 3, 2022
he used shitty hardware parts so the power probably BBQ'd his stick. (and the other hardware as well maybe)
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2024
I used an cheap Delux case made in 2006 I believe. The case had shitty IO PCB for usb/headphones. One USB stopped working, but I thought it still worked. The power/reset button switches didn't work all the time.
Also had a Spire PSU which was very low quality. It had loud coil whine even when the pc was off but was connected at socket, and I think I also got small shocks when touching the metalic part when ON.
One day my stick wasn't recognized after I plugged in the case. After a while, I smelled smoke from PC case. Stopped everything and I found after a while the culprit. It was ...
THE IO PCB. The traces were charcoaled.
Good thing that my motherboard and GPU were unaffected. I ditched immediately the PSU and stripped the case components.
But I regret losing the stick. Not because of Data. Because they weren't producing affordable sticks that have good speeds. Now you have a lot of junk USB sticks for low capacity.
From that event I learned not to cheap on PSU or cases. I got some older PSUs that are way more high quality (and also heavy). Enlight and FSP Group.
The old case now I use for retro computing purposes. It doesn't have the front panel. Only a metal shell.
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2014
Isn't SanDisk and PNY still good?
Also that sucks about the case. So it was metal with bad insulation in the circuitry?
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2024
Found the stick model. Kingston DataTraveler R3.0 G2
It was fast and was rugged. Probably also water resistant but never tested it.
San Disk is a bit of mixed bag IMO.
They are fast. And their sd cards/ssds are good for what they do. I have 2 sd cards of 16 gb for 6 years and they still work.
I bought 2 years ago an San Disk micro SD reader. (Amazon). I liked it because it was portable and supported fast speeds
After a while it couldn't read SD cards anymore. They used very fragile leg contacts and 1 of them got bent hard even if I used a few times.
I also feel their USB devices are cheaply made.
Never tried PNY.
Most probably. Didn't test the PSU to see the voltages, how the 5V rail behaves. But if it was only the PSU, it should have fried more than IO front panel.
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