'No Stupid Questions' (NSQ) Internet & Technology Edition

You could get a M.2 enclosure if it's an option, maybe this one. You'll be stuck with lower speeds but won't have to get a new drive.
At this point I'm resigned to slower speeds, so that is definitely not an issue.

I just opened up my tower to check out exactly what is where. The PCIe 3 has the GPU, and it takes up all the space down to second PCIe 2.

The adapter you linked, goes into a 2.5" bay, can it then link into a SATA port? I am not quite sure what a U.2 is.

Looking at the transfer speeds of the PCIe 2.0x1 and the SATA 6GB, the SATA 750MB/s is slightly higher than the PCIe 500MB/s. I would be better using a SATA port. I have two spare.

Another option to get better than SATA speeds is a NVMe to USB-C/3.2/Thunderbolt adapter. He'll have the fastest USB drive on the block! They're supposedly very good(if the right case/controller is bought).
I have actually stumbled across this a little while ago, I have USB3.1 Gen1 ports though.
 
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The adapter you linked, goes into a 2.5" bay, can it then link into a SATA port? I am not quite sure what a U.2 is.
An older interface for SSDs. U.2 connectors are mechanically identical to the SATA ones, but the cables use the available pins in a different configuration: 4 PCIE and 2 SATA data lanes.

The TL;DR is the connectors are the same and will work just the same if you use normal SATA cables. Assuming you don't want to use an external enclosure for USB3.1 instead.
 
An older interface for SSDs. U.2 connectors are mechanically identical to the SATA ones, but the cables use the available pins in a different configuration: 4 PCIE and 2 SATA data lanes.

The TL;DR is the connectors are the same and will work just the same if you use normal SATA cables. Assuming you don't want to use an external enclosure for USB3.1 instead.
Definitely want internal, it's too much to risk for my clumsy arse going for external. From what I understand using it externally means it can't be used to boot off, and being that MX Linux has boot in the root partition, that was the part of the whole reason for buying something with newer technology (even though for right now, I won't be able to access the faster speeds).

Thanks for your help, bouncing things off people helps with the going around in circles crap, and narrowed it down to an option I hadn't come across, which I feel works better for me, since I only have a 3.5" HDD in the bays, and the 2.5" is empty because the SSD is on the base of the tower.
 
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Is there any reason why wireless headphones sound bad? I just send back a pair of pretty nice ones because the increase sound quality was not worth costing 10 times the price of decent ones. they still sound realy bad when compared to wired ones.
 
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Is there any reason why wireless headphones sound bad? I just send back a pair of pretty nice ones because the increase sound quality was not worth costing 10 times the price of decent ones. they still sound realy bad when compared to wired ones.
Bluetooth doesn't have the bandwidth to support uncompressed audio, so it must be compressed before being streamed to the headphones or what have you. When you connect the headphones to your phone or whatever, they do a bit of chatting and decide on a codec to use to compress and decompress the audio; aptX (sometimes styled Apt-X) is generally considered to be the best of these, so when you're buying any Bluetooth audio device, look for one that supports aptX.

If you have particularly good hearing, you might be able to hear the difference that the Bluetooth compression does, especially if the source audio you're listening to was already poorly compressed. I personally can't tell the difference, but I do notice the delay when playing certain games.

Of course there's also the question of the audio reproduction mechanisms of the headphones themselves. An interesting experiment might be to get a pair of headphones which supports both wired and wireless connections and do a blind test with a friend and see if you can tell the difference between the two, as in that case the difference would have to be due to the Bluetooth encoding rather than any other aspect of the headphones. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to tell the difference, but if you can, then you're probably going to have a hard time finding agreeable Bluetooth headphones.
 
Of course there's also the question of the audio reproduction mechanisms of the headphones themselves. An interesting experiment might be to get a pair of headphones which supports both wired and wireless connections and do a blind test with a friend and see if you can tell the difference between the two, as in that case the difference would have to be due to the Bluetooth encoding rather than any other aspect of the headphones. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to tell the difference, but if you can, then you're probably going to have a hard time finding agreeable Bluetooth headphones.
Okay i didnt had the idea to test that. They were Useless do me if they didnt work well enough with bluetooth since i already the older wired model of them.
 
Bluetooth doesn't have the bandwidth to support uncompressed audio, so it must be compressed before being streamed to the headphones or what have you. When you connect the headphones to your phone or whatever, they do a bit of chatting and decide on a codec to use to compress and decompress the audio; aptX (sometimes styled Apt-X) is generally considered to be the best of these, so when you're buying any Bluetooth audio device, look for one that supports aptX.

If you have particularly good hearing, you might be able to hear the difference that the Bluetooth compression does, especially if the source audio you're listening to was already poorly compressed. I personally can't tell the difference, but I do notice the delay when playing certain games.

Of course there's also the question of the audio reproduction mechanisms of the headphones themselves. An interesting experiment might be to get a pair of headphones which supports both wired and wireless connections and do a blind test with a friend and see if you can tell the difference between the two, as in that case the difference would have to be due to the Bluetooth encoding rather than any other aspect of the headphones. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to tell the difference, but if you can, then you're probably going to have a hard time finding agreeable Bluetooth headphones.
Also worthy of note, even aptX isnt considered a "lossless" codec, so no matter how high quality the wireless headphones, the audio will suffer regardless.

I notice it most on stuff that's mastered correctly and has a good mix of highs and lows. But I only use my bluetooth when I'm wo9rking outside, when inside I have a 10 year old pair of Sennheisers that work perfectly.
 
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Okay i didnt had the idea to test that. They were Useless do me if they didnt work well enough with bluetooth since i already the older wired model of them.
You should also check what mode your transmitting device is using. If you're on a Windows PC, this will be difficult, and it may be an unnecessarily bad mode, defaulting to the 'two way' mode that would be used for Skype calls . c.f.
 
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I heard port 1194 udp is being blocked is being blocked in the usa. I'm not certain if its based on isp or if its all of the us. Can someone in the us either confirm or deny if this is a thing.
 
Anyone know of good way to remote desktop from Linux to Windows? Got a small PC to use as a media server with jellyfin, I'd like to hide it away in a cupboard somewhere and remote desktop when i need to. Remmina is apparently the de-facto linux RDP solution but it refuses to fucking work. I just get "Unable to connect to RDP server <ur IP>". I followed a couple of different guides and common solutions on google none of which worked.

I have another windows machine and that connects fine to the media box, so I don't think its an issue with settings on the host machine.
 
Anyone know of good way to remote desktop from Linux to Windows? Got a small PC to use as a media server with jellyfin, I'd like to hide it away in a cupboard somewhere and remote desktop when i need to. Remmina is apparently the de-facto linux RDP solution but it refuses to fucking work. I just get "Unable to connect to RDP server <ur IP>". I followed a couple of different guides and common solutions on google none of which worked.

I have another windows machine and that connects fine to the media box, so I don't think its an issue with settings on the host machine.
That's strange. Remmina usually works pretty good. Did you try connecting to RDP from something different, like some else that's not running Windows, maybe a phone or something?

*Edit* Maybe try VNC?
 
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Any updates on this? How did it work out for you?

I actually found a Radeon Pro for around the same price and it seemed equivalent. Slightly better actually as I was able to get a 4000 series for my money. It's working fine, actually. One of the DP ports may be dodgy but it could also have been the cable I used. I'm pretty happy with it as I went from a Radeon 480 to this and in terms of game playing that's probably a downgrade but I don't really play games outside of the very low-powered, old-school strategy games so I don't mind. Instead what I now have is something that runs at 40W as opposed to the 150W+ the gaming card does, it takes up a lot less space in my chassis meaning I can fit in a SSD expander board now. And some of the pro software it comes with is nice if it fits your specific use cases - for example the AMD Remote Workstation is basically h.265 encoding for remote desktops so I'm actually planning to move my main computer out of the way and just have a nice clear desk with just a laptop connected via USB-C to a monitor and use RDP to it as the quality is so good and it seems responsive enough. My plans have moved on a bit since my old post but the card is still a good buy because I'm going to have to have some card in that box and this is nice, low-powered and cool running.

I haven't got the new monitor yet because there are a bunch of supply issues. I'm also now thinking I might get one of the new Dell MS Teams monitors because although the teams integration is a gimmick they seem nice monitors outside of that and if the built in camera and speakers are good enough, that's less desktop clutter. May ultimately get things down to one of those arty Macbook settings "creators" have on YouTube where it's just a monitor, a slim laptop station, keyboard and mouse as opposed to the multi-monitor, big speakers, pile of cables thing I have now.

Thanks for your suggestions on this. Next decision is the monitor. I would have bought one already if the LG 38" curved one were actually available. Supply issues have me still exploring options, though. I'd like something 5K2K but I haven't found one that is curved that is decent. It has to be IPS, you see. And ideally I'd like higher than 60Hz refresh rate but there aren't many of those. I basically want a perfect monitor and they don't exist, yet.
 
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I have a screen that's intended to be used with an overhead projector (one of those things from the 80s/90s), and as a result it's translucent to allow light to shine through. Could I use tin foil to make light reflect off of it like a standard passive lit LCD?
 
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ive had to facotry reset my xbox one three times already just to get it to work. should i be concerned ?
Which version? If it's the older fat-daddy one; they're approaching end of life unless you have them fully stripped and serviced. The One S and X shouldn't be running into those sort of problems just yet. Are all your intake/exhausts clear of dust/debris? Overheating causes most of the XBone problems, whether it's clogging or a fan gone bad.
 
Which version? If it's the older fat-daddy one; they're approaching end of life unless you have them fully stripped and serviced. The One S and X shouldn't be running into those sort of problems just yet. Are all your intake/exhausts clear of dust/debris? Overheating causes most of the XBone problems, whether it's clogging or a fan gone bad.
Ugh dust!the bane of gamers everywhere! Forget about sand it's dust that's coarse and rough and gets everywhere and it always comes back no matter what you do

But yeah I wiped the vents as best as I could and will invest in some canned air and a swifter trap n lock duster next payday.... Frankly just wish there was a way to keep dust from ever forming again
 
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Ugh dust!the bane of gamers everywhere! Forget about sand it's dust that's coarse and rough and gets everywhere and it always comes back no matter what you do

But yeah I wiped the vents as best as I could and will invest in some canned air and a swifter trap n lock duster next payday.... Frankly just wish there was a way to keep dust from ever forming again
You've just got to wrap the entire thing in glad-wrap to keep it dust free.

But seriously, taking apart the xbone is supposedly a fairly simple operation, if you really want to go that far. I'd also recommend something like a painting brush to dislodge dust that can't be removed via canned air. I recently come up against that issue with my laptop cooler. Apparently some brushes can be conductive (I don't know what they've made of, but I doubt it.), so make sure you keep it unplugged for a while and press the power button a few times while unplugged before you try.

It's probably fucked though, as there is little chance it's going to suffer thermal issues booting.
 
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