Scale Model And Hobby General - 1/35 with new tooling

I've had the same pair of Tamiya nippers for around a decade. My previous pair also lasted me a long time. I got a God Hand pair on a sale last year though, and man. It's a little finnicky at first, but once you get a feel for them, they're really smooth.
They're too much money when Tamiya ones already cut so cleanly and require barely any clean up after. They stay sharper than any cheap pair you buy off Amazon. I had to use a pair of very cheap clippers recently and it felt like I was using garden shears to cut parts.
 
God hand are insane for side cutters and sanding paper, never going back. Tamiya started me on plastic crack when I was kid, now its a never ending money pit, thanks.
 
Airfix has gone from absolutely brilliant to complete shit over the course of the 2000s.
around 2020 Airfix kits went from mediocre to outstanding. Their newly tooled stuff is very clean and crisp, with excellent fit.
Came here from community features. Rip Tamiya. I happened to be watching a documentary on Hornby and Airfix and their efforts to turn the business around featuring James May. It was posted 27 August 2024, Figured some in the thread would find it interesting as did.
James may has had a number of videos on model trains or model kits in general most posted on full to youtube.
 
Came here from community features. Rip Tamiya. I happened to be watching a documentary on Hornby and Airfix and their efforts to turn the business around featuring James May. It was posted 27 August 2024, Figured some in the thread would find it interesting as did.
James may has had a number of videos on model trains or model kits in general most posted on full to youtube.
There was a 10 episode series called Hornby: A model world made by the UK network Yesterday. It follows a product from the research and design stage up to release each episode. With autistic Hornby fans and their home lay outs here and there. I'm not a Hornby modeler and I hate Airfix kits but the series was enjoyable. Seeing the length the researchers go to get it as accurate as possible made some interesting stories.

Their 123 nippers are really really good. Nice sharp cuts before the godhands come in.

Im mad the spring fucked up on mine but amazing $40aud purchase.
I'm going to buy another pair soon. A pair of cheap Amazon clippers, a pair of those and a scalpel is all you really need to model. I will rarely get out a file to sand something down because of fit but never because it's not cut smooth or flat. You could use the 123 nippers and not clean up the nub after and get such a close cut most wouldn't be able to pick out the nubs. I wouldn't unless it was a speed build weekend project but you could.
 
Sad to hear about Mr. Tamiya. RIP. Here's some Tamiya stuff for you all.

This is one of the earliest 1/16 R/C tanks they produced. The Leopard 1A4. I built this one back in the early 90's.
Still runs great-

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Here's a more recent WIP. The Full Option 1/16 R/C Leopard 2A6. Still needs final details and assembly, paint, and decals.

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And yesterday I bought the Full Option 1/16 Tamiya M1A2. It has lights, sound, recoil, gyro stab, everything. There'll be some nostalgia with this one as I was a Tank Commander on an M1A1 Abrams in my former life. Here's a comparison of 1/16 scale next to 1/35-

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The Tamiya product page detailing all the features-


And finally some more Tamiya oldies. These are the original 70's vintage Tamiya Kubelwagen and PzII models. I built these two nearly 40 years ago.

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Here's a few more of my older kit builds.

Tamiya M3 CFV-
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Really old 70's vintage Bandai 1/48 Wespe-
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Tamiya M113 FSV-
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Been unboxing the Tamiya 1/16 M1A2. Here's the upper hull and turret next to the Tamiya 1/35 M1A2. LOL-
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I know I'm late but RIP Tamiya. My first tank was from Tamiya. I wish more stores in the US had their paints instead ONLY carrying GW stuff. If I had to rebuild my paint rack out of the stuff available locally it would easily 4x what I originally spent.
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Model kits have too many parts these days. I don't need to put every single rivet on a model. It's okay to be slightly less detailed and save me 8 hours of fiddly bullshit.
 
I wish more stores in the US had their paints instead ONLY carrying GW stuff.
Are they any good? I always see arguments online about this or that paint brand but I'm not sure if there's merit or if it's fanboy slapfights.

The exception for ProAcril Titanium White. Everyone seems to agree that's amazing, but I'm suspicious.

For what it's worth, I use a mix of citidel and army painter. No particular reason. They're just available (citidel) and available and cheap (army painter).
 
Are they any good? I always see arguments online about this or that paint brand but I'm not sure if there's merit or if it's fanboy slapfights.
I'm biased because I started with Tamiya. That said, I do like some of the Citadel stuff. They have a lot of "organic" or other bodily goop colors that are available right off the shelf. If I want blood or alien guts I'll just use their paint instead of inconsistently mixing together vehicle themed paint. I think alot of the hate Citadel paint gets is due to the people that use it. GW fans are the goyest of goys so its fun to dog on them.

Don't have much other experience with the other table top paints. The single time I tried Warpaints it seemed ok. I used their rust tone for awhile. They're not bad IME, just inconvenient when they're the only option for someone who paints vehicles 90% of the time. Its annoying trying to figure out which "yadda yadda black" translates into "flat black".
 
Are they any good? I always see arguments online about this or that paint brand but I'm not sure if there's merit or if it's fanboy slapfights.

The exception for ProAcril Titanium White. Everyone seems to agree that's amazing, but I'm suspicious.

For what it's worth, I use a mix of citidel and army painter. No particular reason. They're just available (citidel) and available and cheap (army painter).
They're fine. They're a bit hotter than most acyrlics and don't brush as well but they're fine. Pretty much any modern paint line are good these days. Even Army painter fixed their problems with the new fanatic line. They went from the worst but acceptable if you knew how to use them to actually good.
I'm biased because I started with Tamiya. That said, I do like some of the Citadel stuff. They have a lot of "organic" or other bodily goop colors that are available right off the shelf. If I want blood or alien guts I'll just use their paint instead of inconsistently mixing together vehicle themed paint. I think alot of the hate Citadel paint gets is due to the people that use it. GW fans are the goyest of goys so its fun to dog on them.

Don't have much other experience with the other table top paints. The single time I tried Warpaints it seemed ok. I used their rust tone for awhile. They're not bad IME, just inconvenient when they're the only option for someone who paints vehicles 90% of the time. Its annoying trying to figure out which "yadda yadda black" translates into "flat black".
War paints are Army painter. Their washes and speed paints (2.0, the originals reactivate when painted over) are their best lines.
 
So showing off my builds would be too risky and would likely dox myself but what I'm happy to do is share a story from the early 2000's internet model building message board community. I think some of you might enjoy it.

This all happened on the 2 most popular message boards for scifi modeling at the time; Starshipmodeler and Culttvman (both are still around but SSM seems dead whereas Cult is about to rerelease the coveted Sealab model kit.) I don't frequent either board anymore, SSM doesn't seem very active and multiple attempts to log into my old account failed and registering for a new account also fails. Cult was always kind of a dick on his board and they were the guys who were into the ancient figure models from Aurora.

Anyways, my favoritist dramatic episodes on these forums all revolved around two passionate guys and the argument they'd never stop having: most of us weren't actually model builders, rather model reassemblers putting together a kit that an actual model builder designed.

Most of you that read that sentence probably don't care. If you build kits you do it for fun and like most people back then you shrugged and said whatever to the idea that you're a simp model reassembler. A user named TnkeWnke (from the teletubbies) felt differently and his mental illness fueled his passion. The other belligerent in this war was a man named David Merriman, who wasn't all that merry but who is a skilled builder with some credentials (done some prop work for Star Trek but primarily does submarines now I believe.)

David had every right to suggest that model kits were actually models designed by engineers then taken apart for the lowly nerds to put back together. If you think about it that is what a model kit is. This is prior to 3d printing being so widely available (2000-2005) so "scratchbuilders" had a certain aura to them. Heck, I bought a resin model of the enteprise from Enterprise made by scratch by one such fellow named Thomas Sasser (SP? Also no longer with us.) But David had a very condescending ton that just rubbed folks the wrong way.

Cult from Culttvman would defend him as a nice guy, and to his credit I'm sure under better circumstances he was.

TnkeWnke on the other hand was a chronic messageboard user that maybe dabbled in kit reassembly here and there. He wasn't shy about his mental illness, this would come up whenever he'd get carried away and get banned for a couple weeks. As you can imagine he hated Merriman's logic and argued that the process of assembly, filling seams, painting and decaling all justified "building." TnkeWnke was always going to far and getting banned by mods but my favorites were his rants about Merriman.

In truth I don't care one bit about their actual argument. Who fucking cares if I'm just reassembling a model? I'm not trying to build the enterprise from balsa wood. Fuck that noise. Merriman seemed to be ok with this so long as one accepted that meant he was the superior modeler--the real model builder. But fuck that guy, so TNG contracted him occasionally to build the wrap engines for the Enterprise C filming model. Whoopied shit.

I drifted away from these boards through the natural course of discovering sex with women on rare occasions and the decline of these independent niche message boards. Plus the mods of SSM and Cult were both kind of dicks. I think the spamming got so bad post 2008 that everyone ended up hating forums.

Anyways, just remember, you aren't a real model builder! Lol.
 
Crosspost with the 40k thread, but longer and with more context.

What are people's take on paint pens? Do vanilla acrylic or "acrylic paint pens" work just as well?


Recently I've been painting my Bolt Action guys, and it's been a disaster. Constant problems have resulted in a mess of a paint job. I tried so many techniques and products (mostly for skin) that by the time I found something workable, any detail has been completely obliterated. Not to count the constant gaps where a previous attempts shows through or taint the colour on top.

Making this worse is set up and teardown time is eating into my hobby time more than I'd like. 10-15 minutes setting up a palette, paint, water, cleaning, etc. doesn't sound like a lot, but when you're doing a few test models then packing up, or getting interrupted 30 minutes later to do something, it compounds the frustration.

I ended up thinking back to those marker pens that did the rounds when gunpla first got big. Since then a bunch of paint makers made their own competing versions of those markers. I've not done much research into them, but they aren't cheap. AKs are £64 for a set. The upcoming Army Painter pens are £50 for a set. Meanwhile, a local stationary sells "acrylic paint pens" and "acrylic pens" for £8 for a dozen pens, which is cheaper than a new set of brushes.

Other than the gunpla panel liner, which people swear by, I've not really heard much about these pens. I'm not expecting anything near the quality kiwis posted. My goal here would be to grab a pen, put a base colour on a few minis, without the set up and tear down time.
 
Recently I've been painting my Bolt Action guys, and it's been a disaster. Constant problems have resulted in a mess of a paint job. I tried so many techniques and products (mostly for skin) that by the time I found something workable, any detail has been completely obliterated. Not to count the constant gaps where a previous attempts shows through or taint the colour on top.
You do 1 test model not the whole batch. If you're thinning your paints correctly you can put on 20 layers and not lose detail.

Gunpla pens are okay for panel lining but not suitable for miniature painting. The new paint pens by AK are very good but they're brushes with a built in paint bottle not a normal pen. If you can't paint with a brush they won't help you.

Bolt action is easy to paint. Spray a base coat, wash the recesses then put on a highlight. Paint straps and faces. There's no gimmicks to those paint jobs. The best you have is contrast for the skin but it's almost the same amount of work as painting it with layers. If you can't paint then learn to paint by doing it more.
 
You do 1 test model not the whole batch.
I do. I'm doing 8 or so. Trying different things for each. There's where the set up time became an issue. Set up for 15 mins, paint half a dozen hands and faces (lets say 2 minutes per mini if being generous), wait to dry (15 mins), second coat (6 mins), teardown (15 mins).

If you're thinning your paints correctly you can put on 20 layers and not lose detail.
Then I must be doing something wrong, because I'm following the whole "thin them down until it's the consistency of milk" strategy. Any thinner and it's basically a bad wash. Even with my thick coats, most of my results still show the base coat through raised areas like cheeks. Recently I got Army Painter barbarian flesh and it's at least a workable skin colour, unlike previous ones, but I still need to do a second coat.

Bolt action is easy to paint. Spray a base coat, wash the recesses then put on a highlight. Paint straps and faces.
That's basically what I'm doing.

Straps are proving tricky because they're in a recess so the "side of the brush" trick isn't working, but also raised so I don't think contrasts will work. I haven't tried them though. What's more, getting a smooth line is tricky due to the only brushes I have that are small enough holding so little paint that it takes several returns to the palette per strap, resulting in a line that is not smooth and looks terrible as a result.

A bunch are wearing goggles and I don't see any real way to paint them. It's like people who paint eyes. A dot would fill the entire lens, assuming it was possible to get there accurately.
 
I made a ton of models in the 80's and 90's. My favorites were tanks and helicopters. Did quite a few aeroplanes and even had some original Star Wars models. The shuttle Tydirium was very, very well made.
 
I do. I'm doing 8 or so. Trying different things for each. There's where the set up time became an issue. Set up for 15 mins, paint half a dozen hands and faces (lets say 2 minutes per mini if being generous), wait to dry (15 mins), second coat (6 mins), teardown (15 mins).


Then I must be doing something wrong, because I'm following the whole "thin them down until it's the consistency of milk" strategy. Any thinner and it's basically a bad wash. Even with my thick coats, most of my results still show the base coat through raised areas like cheeks. Recently I got Army Painter barbarian flesh and it's at least a workable skin colour, unlike previous ones, but I still need to do a second coat.


That's basically what I'm doing.

Straps are proving tricky because they're in a recess so the "side of the brush" trick isn't working, but also raised so I don't think contrasts will work. I haven't tried them though. What's more, getting a smooth line is tricky due to the only brushes I have that are small enough holding so little paint that it takes several returns to the palette per strap, resulting in a line that is not smooth and looks terrible as a result.

A bunch are wearing goggles and I don't see any real way to paint them. It's like people who paint eyes. A dot would fill the entire lens, assuming it was possible to get there accurately.
You need to learn to paint. The problem isn't the tools or the models.
 
Recently I've been painting my Bolt Action guys, and it's been a disaster. Constant problems have resulted in a mess of a paint job. I tried so many techniques and products (mostly for skin) that by the time I found something workable, any detail has been completely obliterated. Not to count the constant gaps where a previous attempts shows through or taint the colour on top.
This is the first time I've ever messed with miniatures this size (since I've developed patience and skill over the past 20 years) and I've come to realize a few things.
  • I'll never able to make my guys like it shows on the box.
  • These guys aren't 1/35 scale so it's going to be tough
  • They aren't 40k levels of detail
  • They're made to be used on a table top game, not meant for scrutiny by the Guggenheim
You can always scrub them down with some thinner and a tooth brush if you don't like how it looks. I had to the first time around.

My only suggestion is what everyone said: thin coats. They don't need to be watery but its going to take two coats for the face or body. I know these are hot garbage but I haven't done a final wash on anything yet and I don't know where the hairs came from.
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My first attempt at pedestal making
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I know my splintertarn is shitty but I wasn't confident I could make it look good on that small a thing
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I added some 1/35 scale leaves to the helmets because it looks pretty cool even if they're monstrous. lol
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If you want some inspiration, this guy is insane.
He paints all kinds of military miniatures, some are literally army men. Lots of cool things
 

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