Sewing, Mending, and Tailoring Thread - Necessary skills for putting your anime girl patches on your mallninja gear.

[Wemmy]

Will knitting and crochet be included in this thread?

crocheted clothing is great for winter under a windbreaker. Best pair of work gloves I ever owned was knitted sheep's wool with a leather exterior. It's a fabric but 1/4th the effort and time of cloth

 

[oishii desu]

Will knitting and crochet be included in this thread?
(...)
I know they aren't technically considered tailoring. But it is self sufficient clothing.

Even embroidery would be lovely too! But i dont know if that bleeds too much into an artform or not.

There are an assortment of crafting threads, an old knitting/crochet one that didn't gain much traction, a fiber arts cow thread in BP, and the most active is the show and tell craft thread in Gorl Tawk. None are routinely updated and I think that is partly because the individual interest in each textile hobby wouldn't gain enough activity to support a thread long term. I agree that having a Textile Arts General would probably be the best move, just to generate routine discussion. Usually people have more than one fiber related hobby anyways so it wouldn't be too weird I think? I guess if home renovations are good to talk about here, then so should craft projects?

Also, even embroidery is practical! It's used semi-routinely in quilting, which is another hobby that I think can be included here. I repaired a tshirt the other day and embroidered something over my repair to make it look intentional. Textile arts in general is pretty self-sufficient, the choice to repair what you have already and or make something high quality so you won't have to pay for garbage clothes is all part of breaking the cycle.
ETA: Forgot to mention that sashiko is a great example of embroidery for practical use.

 

[CharcoalChkn]

There are an assortment of crafting threads, an old knitting/crochet one that didn't gain much traction, a fiber arts cow thread in BP, and the most active is the show and tell craft thread in Gorl Tawk. None are routinely updated and I think that is partly because the individual interest in each textile hobby wouldn't gain enough activity to support a thread longterm. I agree that having a Textile Arts General would probably be the best move, just to generate routine discussion. Usually people have more than one fiber related hobby anyways so it wouldn't be too weird I think? I guess if home renovations are good to talk about here, then so should craft projects?

Also, even embroidery is practical! It's used semiroutinely in quilting, which is another hobby that I think can be included here. I repaired a tshirt the other day and embroidered something over my repair to make it look intentional. Textile arts in general is pretty self-sufficient, the choice to either repair what you have already or make something high quality so you won't have to pay for garabge clothes is all part of breaking the cycle.

If people are cool with it, then I will post in here whenever I have anything significant to share.

I would take up sewing, but my current thought process on picking up knitting and crochet is to have a practical skill that can help me now, and in a hypothetical doomsday scenario. So an electrical machine would be out. I don't know if I have enough room or patience to maintain a non-electrical sewing machine.

 

[oishii desu]

Personally I welcome all crafters and hobbyists. I can't talk about this stuff too much irl so I enjoy making it everyone online's problem instead.

I don't know if I have enough room or patience to maintain a non-electrical sewing machine.

They're not as fiddly as you would expect. I found them much easier to work with than most modern machines, and if you're comfortable tinkering with machines in general you'll do fine. Totally get the apprehension though and space is obvs a factor. How have you been taking to crochet and knitting?

Spoiler: A bit about me and my interests

I'm a bit of a sped who needs to always be doing something with their hands. I have the most experience in sewing but I do a lot of different crafty and fiber related hobbies. I'm pretty disillusioned with ready to wear clothing and prefer making almost everything by hand. I haven't bought new clothes since about 2020. Always happy to chat with others about this stuff!

 

[CharcoalChkn]

They're not as fiddly as you would expect. I found them much easier to work with than most modern machines, and if you're comfortable tinkering with machines in general you'll do fine. Totally get the apprehension though and space is obvs a factor. How have you been taking to crochet and knitting?

Knitting has been relatively easy for me to pick up. I grew up rural, and for some reason, through out primary school (catholic school for extra context) an hour of our curriculum would have the teacher read to the class while we each knitted a granny sqaure and made a class blanket, which would be given to various charities and old folks homes. So knitting was more of a getting back on the bike situation for me.

Crochet has been interesting. I'm still only 2 weeks in, so just fiddling with very small squares to get comfortable with different stitch types and learning to read beginner friendly patterns. I'm trying to make a few small toys, approximately the size of an egg, to give to my cat to play with and test the integrity of my work. I'm still in the bad habit of skipping a stitch pretty frequently, so my goal at the moment is to stamp that out.

I have been enjoying crochet a lot more than knitting, I like how the piece ends up feeling "heavier" and more "tight" if that's the right way to describe it.

 

[fedoralordjish]

how would one go about to repair their own clothes?
what are the basic tools, do i need some fabric to repair things and so on. those would be nice questions to have answered in the op or explained in the thread by knowledgeable users.

 

[oishii desu]

I have been enjoying crochet a lot more than knitting, I like how the piece ends up feeling "heavier" and more "tight" if that's the right way to describe it.

Crochet is superior for 3d objects like what you're describing. Were you taught to knit continental when you were younger? The biggest hurdle for many people is getting use to holding the working yarn in their left hand (me, I'm people). And yes! Crochet results in a denser fabric than a knit. It also uses more yarn per stitch than knitting does.

how would one go about to repair their own clothes?
what are the basic tools, do i need some fabric to repair things and so on. those would be nice questions to have answered in the op or explained in the thread by knowledgeable users.

There were some tips discussed earlier in the thread, but the unfortunate answer is: It depends. Both on the repair, the fabric, the location where you are mending, etc.

Assuming the issue is a threadbare area on a plain woven fabric, such as an elbow, your options are darning and or a patch depending on the size. The following is assuming you know basic hand stitches and do not care how it looks.

Spoiler: Basic Steps

Supplies:

• Thread
• Hand needle
• beeswax or threadwax*
• thimble*
• darning egg*
• presser ham*
• sewing machine*
• fusible interfacing*
• patch of fabric

*a nice to have but technically not necessary. If you are going to be repairing tough fabrics like denim I would highly encourage you to get a thimble that you enjoy using.

Steps to repair:

1. Reinforce the wrong side with a lightweight interfacing/pellon, preferably fusible. This should extend about 1/2 an inch/ 1.25cm from the edge of the area needing reinforcing.
2. Get a fabric of a similar weight to your garment. Depending on what you have on hand you can potentially harvest it from another part of the garment. Check hems and other areas with large seam allowances. This is also a great use for old clothes when there is no hope of salvation.
3. Hand baste the fabric patch all around the interfaced area you are reinforcing, wrong side of the garment. Consider pinking the edges of the patch if it frays easily.
4. If you have access to a sewing machine, switch it to a zigzag stitch. Letting the feed dogs guide the garment, right side facing up, you will want to do a series of vertical lines of zigzag stitching right next to each other, all across the interfaced area. Like this | | | | |
5. Once your vertical lines are done, turn the garment 90 degrees. You will repeat the zigzag process again but now perpendicular across your lines of zigzag stitches. Essentially what you are doing is you're attempting to replicate the weave of the fabric that is no longer there with the stitching.
6. The stitching will make the area less flexible but it provides stability overall. Make sure to backstitch and clip threads as you go.
7. If you are doing this by hand the steps are basically the same except you're doing a series of running stitches vertically and then horizontally, alternating going over and under. Having a presser ham or darning egg for this is useful.

Here is an example done by machine that should have used a patch under the hole:

Here is an example done by hand:

And here are some better illustrative guides for handwork:

You can technically reweave fabric as well but I won't get into that unless there is an interest. I would imagine for most purposes here darning and or a patch will suffice. There are some fabrics that you can't do any of the above to, namely nylon.

If whatever you're repairing is really truly fucked it may require a complete redo. This is often the case for hems, collars, cuffs, etc. Obviously that requires at least basic knowledge in clothing construction and sewing.

 

[CharcoalChkn]

Were you taught to knit continental when you were younger?

I was not familiar with the terms for different styles of knitting, but after quickly watching a video, I was taught English style. Watching Continental made my brain break but it appeared to be much more fast and efficient, another thing on my list to learn to improve my skills. I am certainly in the same camp as you though, I'm not a dexterous person, but I think learning crochet whilst simultaneously forcing myself to (now) learn continental style for knitting will help with that.

 

[HahaYes]

The thread tends to be cheap and it frays when used in a sewing machine

Adding to that, polystyrene thread tends to be shit as well and it doesn't last. Cotton, linen and silk threads are the best to use, linen (bear in mind you must run beeswax over it before stitching with it) and silk in particular are very strong, all three will reliably keep any weight bearing seam strong and functional with a decent back stitch. I've made and repaired garments repeatedly with all of those thread types using fully natural fabrics (IE linen, cotton etc) and they've yet to need any further repairs at this stage.

In regards to general maintenance, prior to fast fashion clothing was an investment, and it still should be considered one if you want your garments to last. It is not normal to replace your entire wardrobe every few months despite what a lot of normies tend to think. Learning historical techniques for sewing and making your own clothes in general, learning to tailor and making your own patterns are all extremely valuable skills, and they're very fun hobbies as well. For anybody just starting to get into making your own clothing and sewing in general I cannot recommend Bernadette Banner enough. She is dedicated and seriously knows her shit. Ironically she recently uploaded a video going over what equipment you actually need to make clothes if shit absolutely hits the fan:

 

[fedoralordjish]

Thank you @oishii desu and @HahaYes that's what this thread needs more of!

 

[Less Nasty Old Person]

Sewing and mending = marketable skill post apocalypse. Not just for clothes -- shoes / boots / bags, tents / shelters, animal collars / harnesses.

Actual leatherworking skills are easy to learn using YouTube. Same for sewing and mending.

Avoid computerized and electronic sewing machines unless you like replacing them when they break down. Look specifically for all-mechanical machines. You can buy them new, but you have to be aware they will have some plastic parts so don't fucking abuse them if you want them to last. I can recommend Janome as they have several to choose from.

Anything 70s and earlier will be all-nechanical but even then you may have a few plastic parts. Old White and Kenmore machines can be pretty good. Singer is overhyped -- a lot of their machines were crap (Touch and Sew, anyone?), and the good ones (Featherweight) are ridiculously overpriced.

 

[Ballsofyarn]

I make and dye my own wool. Got myself a spinning wheel and a raw fleece is easy and cheap to get. Haven't tried making sewing thread, but I am planting cotton next year to try and get some thinner yarns. It'll probably never be as good as machine made threads but I can always try. Dying with plants is always fun since you can get alot of colors with plants you can easily find growing in the wild. I recently knitted a blanket from yarn I make from an alpaca fleece I got dirt cheap. Also when you clean a sheep's fleece it give you lanoline which is a great soap although it can get a bit smelly.

 

[oishii desu]

Adding to that, polystyrene thread tends to be shit as well and it doesn't last. Cotton, linen and silk threads are the best to use, linen (bear in mind you must run beeswax over it before stitching with it) and silk in particular are very strong, all three will reliably keep any weight bearing seam strong and functional with a decent back stitch.

I've heard this from others but that has never been my personal experience. The thread that comes in little sewing kits is usually garbage, yes, as well as the bottom shelf variety that is readily available. But a plain all purpose gutterman will work for most everyone, regardless of the project, whereas using a natural fiber for some projects could be disastrous. I have had to be careful when using my silk and cotton threads as I have found they are much more susceptible to thread rot compared to my poly threads. This is also not mentioning the risk of natural fibers attracting moths.

Unfortunately there isn't a great resource for sewing techniques and knowledge like there is for other hobbies. Most of it is either passed down through word of mouth or is available in a book that hasn't been published since the 1960's. Youtube is probably the best but a lot of the info there is bad. Bernadette Banner is a better resource than most, but do take her advice with a little bit of salt. Many historical costumers get caught up in authenticity and the old way of doing things but then apply that same attitude to modern scenarios. It doesn't always work. I do agree with her slow fashion mindset, using scraps, and repairing what gets broken though. There's no reason to buy clothes every few months. Use what you have.

Thank you @oishii desu and @HahaYes that's what this thread needs more of!

I would be happy to talk through any repair or problem that people come to the thread with, I imagine other knowledgable users would be as well. After awhile the posts can be consolidated and linked as a reference for repairs that could then be added to the OP.

ETA:

I make and dye my own wool. Got myself a spinning wheel and a raw fleece is easy and cheap to get. Haven't tried making sewing thread, but I am planting cotton next year to try and get some thinner yarns. It'll probably never be as good as machine made threads but I can always try. Dying with plants is always fun since you can get alot of colors with plants you can easily find growing in the wild. I recently knitted a blanket from yarn I make from an alpaca fleece I got dirt cheap. Also when you clean a sheep's fleece it give you lanoline which is a great soap although it can get a bit smelly.

I'm considering buying a raw fleece. I'm not sure what I should look for in particular to differentiate a good fleece from a bad however, do you have any tips?

 

[Ethel_Blucifer]

https://archive.org/details/basic-sewing-machine-repair-unknown This is about sewing machine maintenance, including tension. It was meant for New Guinea in the 70s, so it's full of nice clear line drawings.
https://archive.org/details/clothing-construction-and-wardr-lewis-dora-s This one is from 1955, but the latter half of it is full of good stuff about setting plackets and cuffs and such. It taught me how to add pockets to everything.
The Internet Archive has TONS of books on sewing, a lot of it Victorian, so out-of-copyright, so you can just flat-out download it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ow9oRngJRo Here's the Closet Historian's video about making a slooper (a generic tailored-to-you pattern) and here's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYJXKh1_dSI her video on drafting sleeves.

 

[lolnah]

Waxing your clothes is a great idea for an effective hazmat suit.

Making waxed fabric can be quite a process, but it's worth it if you want to make anything waterproof. I waxed some cheap canvas dropcloth that I had bought at Harbor Freight and made a messenger bag out of it, it's excellent in the rain and I can even set it down without worrying that everything in it will be ruined. This blog post has a nice walkthrough of the process of waxing fabric that I used.

If you want to learn to sew with a sewing machine, and you don't want to waste fabric, you can sew on scrap printer paper just to learn how to make straight lines or execute turns. You'll dull the needle after so long, but universal sewing needles in size 90/14 are cheap and sew most non-stretch fabric, so you can buy a pack and use just one needle for paper sewing. If you're looking to get a lot of fabric for cheap, hit the thrift store and buy up bedsheets and tablecloths, and like I mentioned above, cheap canvas drop cloths (though the cheaper and rougher the fabric, the more likely it is to fall apart, so be aware of that). You can buy this stuff from Dritz at most sewing stores called Fray-Check, and if you put it on the edges of the fabric it seals them so it won't fray apart when sewing after it's dry; I highly recommend it if you're just starting out sewing and having a hard time understanding how close your seams should be to the edge of the fabric.

I recently bought a treadle sewing machine - the kind that requires no electricity and is operated by just a foot pedal - and I'm in the process of repairing and restoring it so I can learn to use it. I'll report further once I get her going.

 

[Ballsofyarn]

I'm considering buying a raw fleece. I'm not sure what I should look for in particular to differentiate a good fleece from a bad however, do you have any tips?

The most important thing is that it was cut properly. You'll always have to sort out some shorter pieces, but if it's cut in one nice fleece that's usually the best. Ofcourse there's alot of difference between different breeds of sheep. Some have very soft wool others are very prickly, but when you're learning it doesn't really matter. You also have to comb the wool before (I use cheap dog brushes) so the fibers are all in the same direction. Some like to wash the wool before spinning others find it easier to do after. Do be careful when washing it no crazy temperature changes or moving it around too much or it'll get matted and basically be unusable. You can also buy prepared wool which is always easier for a beginner, and then get into a raw fleece. I personally love alpaca since it's less work than sheep, and super soft. It is very dusty tho but not as oily as a sheep. Also best to keep it's stored in a plastic bin with a lid because moths will try to get to it and ruin it.

 

[oishii desu]

I recently bought a treadle sewing machine - the kind that requires no electricity and is operated by just a foot pedal - and I'm in the process of repairing and restoring it so I can learn to use it. I'll report further once I get her going.

Glad you got it rather than for it to meet the fate of many others as a non-functioning side table. The old sewing machines are much more resilient than many people realize, I was able to get one working after it was salvaged from a house fire.

The most important thing is that it was cut properly. You'll always have to sort out some shorter pieces, but if it's cut in one nice fleece that's usually the best. Ofcourse there's alot of difference between different breeds of sheep.

I am planning to go to a livestock show that has a fleece auction as part of it. I was looking at Corriedale and Border Leicester specifically, with the idea anything finer like a Merino would be too challenging for me. I briefly thought about Icelandic but the double coat seemed like a bigger challenge than I am really up for, Shetland also interests me but I am hesitant to go that route due to the variety. I want something hard wearing and warm, but won't scare me away from processing fleece for forever due to the challenge.

 

[lolnah]

Glad you got it rather than for it to meet the fate of many others as a non-functioning side table. The old sewing machines are much more resilient than many people realize, I was able to get one working after it was salvaged from a house fire.

Every time I see one on Facebook market or Etsy that's been turned into some garbage furniture I cry a little inside. I was so excited when I found this one intact, it just needs the leather belt and to be cleaned really well. Got the drive belt in the mail today, probably going to spend my Sunday working on her and getting her going. Maybe I'll post some pics if I can find a way to not hard dox myself in the process.

 

[oishii desu]

Every time I see one on Facebook market or Etsy that's been turned into some garbage furniture I cry a little inside.

It's heartbreaking. The 21st Century Shabby Chic fad did irreparable harm to classic sewing machines, just like how 16th Century Europeans ate all the mummies in Egypt. Regardless, sounds like you got a machine in good condition and once you service it you'll be golden.

Don't dox yourself but at least report back with how it goes!

 

[amieth]

im retarded and no one taught me how to mend things. is there a good starting guide out there that isn't some Chinese TikTok?

also, out of curiosity, are Icelandic wool sweaters worth it? i'm currently here and would like to buy one but the cheapest are over 100$ and I'm cheap as hell (and live in a mostly warm climate). even the second-hand sweaters are easily 150$.