Tech Tips - protips, life hacks

IPA in general is super useful. If you've got a metal laptop 70% IPA will clean it to almost new, if you've got a black plastic laptop like a thinkpad 30% IPA should be used.
Ah now for black plastic, once it's clean a very light spray with WD40 and a wipe with a microfibre cloth brings back the lustre. I use that technique on lots of old games consoles and most of my Sega stuff looks, and smells, fresh out of the box.
 
IPA is bad for some plastics and can make some acrylics crack. Even if it won't melt down most plastics it might remove details like structures on the materials, leaving behind a shiny surface. It can also discolor some plastics. If you don't want that I'd be careful. It's sadly impossible to say in which cases it will happen and it which it wont as there are about a gazillion of different plastics. Test at some corner. Honestly, for most plastics some soap and warm water is fine. If you can't clean off whatever you want to clean off with that, my experience has shown anything harsher to finally get it off will also usually damage the plastic.

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To a tech tip: If you want to replace a worn out lithium-polymer battery for a device, don't search for <device name> battery but search for the batteries specifications. Many lithium-polymer batteries are not custom made for specific devices but actually off-the-shelf standard items. You'll get the battery probably easier and also much cheaper. The whole business model of some sellers on eBay etc. is to find out what a battery some device has and then price gouge people who use google to find them.

In the same vein, hard plastic case shell rechargeables (for laptops for example) often also just contain standard battery cells that can directly be replaced if you can open the shell carefully and can solder a little. This is becoming increasingly less true in the last few years though as trends towards thinner and smaller devices actually lead some of the big manufacturers to custom-design batteries for their devices. Beyond an original part, you're often out of luck there. (frankly, this should be illegal because it causes an enormous pile of trash)

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There's an two component epoxy made by different manufacturers that's like putty. You knead it to activate it and then have a few minutes to form it and then it hardens into a plastic-like material. (wear disposable gloves while you form it, you don't want that stuff to have contact with your skin while it's reacting. When it's hardened it's fine) It can then be sanded and even painted. This stuff is incredibly useful for misc. repairs, from deep scratches with pieces missing in wooden surfaces you plan to paint over to broken off plastic nubs and even cracked plastic cases. If you roughen up the surface you want to put it on with coarse sandpaper, it holds on very well to it.

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Many cheap chinese electronics in recent years come with a rubberized surface as you might have noticed to make the device feel more fancy and look more expensive. That stuff is cheap and you can buy it in spray cans. It's very easy to apply and you can even take it off again mechanically. If you have some device (old keyboard case etc.) that looks ugly but you want to keep using you can give it a paint job with that and it'll look good and even feel nice to the touch. You can easily remove the paint-job and reapply a new one later.

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This one is a bit advanced: Acetone dissolves many consumer item plastics but when the acetone vaporizes the plastics actually turn hard again. If you have plastic devices that got shiny and ugly over the years from touch use but are worth something (e.g. retro electronics) you can make a plaster impression of the surface structure from an undamaged part, then slightly coat the shiny part with acetone and press the plaster impression into it to get a structure again. Good as new! Practice this on something you don't mind throwing away as it is hard to get right. You can also fuse broken off plastic parts back together again with acetone. This works best with ABS. Not all plastics dissolve in acetone.

I repair old stuff often.
 
There's an two component epoxy made by different manufacturers that's like putty. You knead it to activate it and then have a few minutes to form it and then it hardens into a plastic-like material. (wear disposable gloves while you form it, you don't want that stuff to have contact with your skin while it's reacting. When it's hardened it's fine) It can then be sanded and even painted. This stuff is incredibly useful for misc. repairs, from deep scratches with pieces missing in wooden surfaces you plan to paint over to broken off plastic nubs and even cracked plastic cases. If you roughen up the surface you want to put it on with coarse sandpaper, it holds on very well to it.
Can confirm usefulness of epoxy. Have repaired multiple broken laptop screen hinges and lids using it. Something like hot glue is probably better but if you only want to spend a bit of money epoxy does the job.

Just don't be a tard and accidentally get the liquid type of epoxy, you will make a mess and just fuck everything up (RIP my original thinkpad lid covered in liquid epoxy).
 
You should look into Samsung SSD (not HDD) external drives.

Most HDD external drives use extremely shittily made laptop HDDs. Which are crap because both they are much smaller than normal platter drives, and also because the manufacturing is usually crap, especially if the drive was assembled by Seagate (like the Lacee drives are), although WD "passport" drives are fucking shit (laptop platters) too

Laptop platters aren't shit, they're just smaller. Density is the same. 2.5" drives also consume less power.

The original Passport was a hack by WD, if anyone remembers the time of when they launched and got big you surely remember that they didn't work on every laptop. WD had gotten cavalier with the USB 2.0 spec.
 
Laptop platters aren't shit, they're just smaller. Density is the same. 2.5" drives also consume less power.

The original Passport was a hack by WD, if anyone remembers the time of when they launched and got big you surely remember that they didn't work on every laptop. WD had gotten cavalier with the USB 2.0 spec.
The ones they use in portable drives are shit. If you can spend the money for a not-shit one, you might as well get the SSD.
 
To edit file in vim or vi, open it and then press `i`. Navigate with `j k l ;` instead of arrows, delete a word by pressing escape and then typing `:dw` (you can return back to edit mode by pressing `i` again), delete a line by pressing `:dd` and overwrite changes by pressing `:wq`, if you have permission problems you'll have to exit with `:q!`.

Sysadmin kiwis, you might not know you need this, but once you will need this information it'll most likely be a stressful situation and you will be very thankful.

Edit: in addition to OPs post, you can also configure mpv to download only formats that are hardware accelerated on youtube. Linux laptop kiwis will be happy to know that this greatly reduces power consumption and frees up CPU. Archwiki has more details.
 
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The ones they use in portable drives are shit. If you can spend the money for a not-shit one, you might as well get the SSD.
2.5" WD externals arent even SATA with a converter board these days
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fellow keepass niggers, if you group your logins how do you do it. Do you do it by site or application?
I just throw all my current passwords into one group, old and ancient ones I don't use into an "archive" group, and then I have two additional groups for alternative e-mails and home related passwords (router/WiFi passwords etc).

A good pro tip (for KeePass 2) would be to turn on Auto-type for the main group only and add as many web addresses to the entries as possible, so that you won't have to always look for the right entry if KeePass knows which one to enter.
 
There are a lot of nigh-universal hotkeys like the above. Try them in the reply box
ctrl+arrow key to jump words
ctrl+a to highlight all (handy for jumping to beginning or ending of a text box/file)
shift+up/down to highlight lines
shift+arrow key to highlight individual characters
ctrl+shift+arrow key to highlight word (already mentioned ik)

ctrl+x to cut
ctrl+c to copy
ctrl+v to paste

ctrl+w to close tab (works in a lot of programs nowadays)
ctrl+t to open new tab
ctrl+q t oclose all tabs
ctrl+pgup/pgdown navigate tabs in order
ctrl+tab to tab through tabs
ctrl++/- (plus or minus) to adjust zoom


ctrl+shift+s to save as (sometimes)

f5 to refresh
f6 to enter and highlight address bar in browsers

Home to jump to top of page
End to jump to bottom
I find those 2 are barely used and instead people scroll no matter how long the page is.

If you hit ALT, a toolbar should drop down. The underline characters are hotkeys you can use to navigate menus using the keyboard. This is also pretty universal in my experience but most prevalent on Windows programs.

I believe for most software there shouldn't be a requirement to use the mouse to to effectively navigate and use things. There are still a lot of keyboard shortcuts out there in modern software but a lot of them also assume you'd rather use the mouse which blows. I think for most people once they learn you can just stay on the keyboard it's an epiphany sort-of moment, it was for me. It's a godsend for laptop users as well.
 
There are a lot of nigh-universal hotkeys like the above. Try them in the reply box

ctrl+t to open new tab
ctrl+tab to tab through tabs

I believe for most software there shouldn't be a requirement to use the mouse to to effectively navigate and use things. There are still a lot of keyboard shortcuts out there in modern software but a lot of them also assume you'd rather use the mouse which blows. I think for most people once they learn you can just stay on the keyboard it's an epiphany sort-of moment, it was for me. It's a godsend for laptop users as well.

Shift is often used as amodifier to do the command in reverse.
ctrl-shift-t opens the tab you closed - this can be really useful.
ctrl-shift-tab cycles tabs backwards, same with alt-tab/alt-shift-tab for windows.

win-space switches input languages(keyboard layout), not useful for most people I guess.

One of the big things in Windows 98 was the button to minimize all windows to show the desktop. That was already possible with win-m in Win95.

Then there's shortcuts specific to individual programs and everyone should check out what's possible in whatever productivity software they're using on a daily basis.
 
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Here's something people should know: if you have a Win7 or Win8 OA key, a manufacturer/vendor specific key, it can be used as a Win10 key/license on a new system if entered during the install. Windows won't even ask for activation.

So if you have an old laptop with Windows 7/8 you can use that key for a new computer with Win10. No need to buy or pirate anything.
 
Learn how to configure a printer. Everyone will think you're magic.

Source: got a printer working
Printers are made solely to eat ink.
get a set of cheap refilled cartridges.
print a sheet of text in full color every other day at least. the nozzles will stay open and you won't end up with fucked printing errors or gaps to mess around with. save the normal cartridges for important prints.

if you've got to leave a printer sitting unused (vacation, pandemic, whatever) take the cartridges out, wipe down the nozzle areas with a really tiny amount of blue dawn dish soap. TINY amount.
it'll keep it from being clogged when you come back later. just wipe it off with rubbing alcohol before you put the cartridges back in.
 
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Strange and mostly useless tip these days: in old(er) Windows the command prompt(DOS prompt) has a limit on how many lines/rows it can display per second. If it's processing a ton of things resulting in lines scrolling by faster than you can read and there's so many files it will go on like that for ten minutes... minimize it and the rows of text per second limitation is gone.
This is limited to Win9x and up until XP I think, so for virtual machines and retro gaming it might come in useful. The proper way is would be to use echo but sometimes you forget about that.
 
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If you want to speed things up on your Android phone, turn off animations. To do this, tap Build Number a few times in the settings. You now have developer options unlocked. The settings you want to turn off are Window Animation Scale, Transition Animation Scale, and Animator Duration Scale.
 
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